Astypalaia is an island in the Dodecanese. It is shaped like a butterfly, with the two wings (the western Mesa Nisi and the eastern Exo Nisi) joined by a narrow strip of land. The island has high crags, fertile valleys, and dozens of small bays.
Understand
[edit]
Chora, the capital, is on a hillside overlooking the port of Petra Gialos. It is the oldest settlement on the island and a place of beauty.
Get in
[edit]Astypalaia is served by large ferries from Athens, and small ferries from some other nearby islands. There is also an airport on the eastern side of the island. Outside of the summer peak, ferries and flights are not daily and may not operate at all in the winter.
Get around
[edit]By bus
[edit]Regular buses run from Livadi to Maletzana and back via Chora, Pera Gialos (the port) and Astypalaia Camping. They charge 1.50€ to 3€ per ride. Timetables are posted on all stops, though they are somewhat confusing.
By e-hailing
[edit]There is also an app called AstyGo/AstyMove that lets you pick up e-bikes, scooters, cars and minibuses from certain spots on the island or call an inexpensive shared on-demand minibus that picks you up from marked stops on the island.
By taxi
[edit]There's only one taxi operating on the island. It can be booked through your hotel if you need it on arrival at the airport or port.
On foot
[edit]Some distances on the island are walkable, though most roads offer no shade. Roads around Chora can be quite steep.
By car/motorbike
[edit]There are a few rental agencies on the island that will rent motorbikes, quad bikes, small cars and small SUV type vehicles. Online prices are often higher than when booked on island. There is a risk that vehicles will not be available during the busiest periods. Many cars are manual and do not expect to use the 4th or 5th gears. Some cars are electric. There are some charging stations around the port area. A quad bike or small SUV may be more suitable to reach the beaches down dirt tracks (Vetses & Kaminakia) though many people manage to get the tiny cars to these places too.
- 1 Vergoulis Rentals, Pera Gialos (In a back street near the port). The largest rental company on the island.
See
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Chora is dominated by the Venetian castle on the hilltop, built by the ruling Querini family in the 13th century. There are also two impressive churches up there, Panagia Evangelistria (1853) and Agios Georgios (1790), the best spot to watch the sun set.
At Chora's entrance are 8 impressive preserved windmills, 2 of which are open to the public.
On the road from the town hall to the castle is one of the most gorgeous churches in the Dodecanese, Panagia Portaitissa. Built in the 18th century, the church has a carved, gilded wooden iconostasis, and is next to the Ecclesiastical Museum, which houses a collection of rare coins.
The Archaeological Museum at Pera Gialos showcases finds dating from prehistoric times, along with the marble crest of the Querini family.
2 km south of Chora, in a fertile valley with mandarin trees, vineyards, and vegetable gardens, the village of Livadi is popular with visitors, as is Maltezana in the northeast.
The delightful, time-forgotten fishing village of Vathy, 21 km from Chora, is located in a protected bay that resembles a lagoon. Driving there along a dirt road, you'll see farmhouses, small monasteries, beehives, and wild goats on the fragrant, herb-covered slopes. Visit Drakos Cave with its impressive stalagmites and stalactites. The Church of Panagia Poulariani is built on a rock shaped like the Virgin Mary holding the baby Jesus, and is reachable only by boat or on foot. In a wonderful mountain landscape lies the Panagia Flevariotissa monastery compound, part of which is inside a cave.
- 1 Windmill above Chora. A single well preserved windmill. The main thing about this place is the view. It is high on the hill above Chora and you can see much of the island from it. There used to be a cafe but it is long abandoned. There is a dirt road to reach it but it is easy enough with any car. It is walkable if not too hot and you are fit.
Do
[edit]Astypalaia makes a nice stop in a sailing trip. It has anchorages and a marina with some restaurants ashore.
Beaches
[edit]- Chora, the small beach within the town, though nonetheless has clear water
- 1 Livadi. This is an organised beach with plenty of restaurants and amenities, and is walkable from Chora (appx 25 min). A fairly steep hill leads down to Livadi, be prepared for this if walking.
- 2 Kaminakia. Accessible via dirt road or by boat. Stunning with very clear deep emerald waters. There is a bar/restaurant. Renting a pair of sun-loungers and umbrella will cost €10 in 2025.
- 3 Vatses. Accessible via dirt road or by boat. At the end of it is a bar with relaxing music and excellent cocktails. Renting a pair of sun-loungers and umbrella will cost €15 in 2025.
- Pera Gialos, popular sandy beach with deep, cool waters.
- Agios Konstantinos, sandy with plenty of amenities, connected by footpath to its nearby twin Tzanakia.
- Plakes, toward Maltezana, this rocky beach has light blue waters and is ideal for diving. Further down the road is beautiful and sheltered Ble Limanaki, but get there and leave early to avoid the crowds in August when the wind picks up.
- Many boats provide day-trip tours to the islets of Kounoupa and Koutsomitis, which have magnificent beaches and are surrounded by turquoise waters. Kounoupa has two parts of the island linked by a sandy beach. A bar at one end offers food and drinks. Umbrellas and sun loungers are available at €20 per set for the day.
- 4 Red Rock. This is a small inlet on the eastern part of the island. Aside from the crystal clear water, it is a sheltered cove with a rock pool at the end. On the left soon after the entrance is a cave. The end of the cave has a short underwater exit to the sea. The light shining through the water is beautiful. The inlet can only be reached by boat and is part of most of the daily cruises.
Eat
[edit]There are plenty of bars/restaurants in Livadi, Chora and the port area. Seafood is popular but quite expensive.
Drink
[edit]Sleep
[edit]Plenty of accommodation is available on the island, particularly apartments. There are some very nice hotels. No accommodation option is cheap here. These can usually be found on the usual booking sites.
Stay safe
[edit]As a pedestrian be aware of the dangers posed by rental cars and bikes driven by tourists who are not used to the narrow and badly marked streets.
Mobile phone service is generally good with 5G available. Do not expect a signal in more remote places such as Vatses beach. Kaminakia actually has a very good signal.
Go next
[edit]Dodekanisos Seaways has a fast ferry service to and from Kos during the summer. Outside of August this only operates twice per week. Sky Express has flights to Athens and Leros.