Aukštaitija National Park Voyage Tips and guide

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The last Ice Age ground and scraped its way across the Baltic regions, and when the glaciation receded, it dumped banks of gravel. This evolved into mixed woodland and rough grazing dotted with shallow lakes, with here and there a gravel hummock. Humans altered this landscape by draining it and felling the woods, and by the 20th century this change was rapid, as mechanical diggers and chainsaws replaced spades and axes.

Protecting natural habitats was no more a priority under communism than it was in capitalist western nations, but public opinion advanced, and in 1974 Lithuania's first national park was established here. An enlargement of two existing nature reserves, it was at first named Lithuanian SSR National Park, but then at independence in 1991 four more national parks were created so it was re-named for its region, Aukštaitija. Regional parks also sprouted - Gražutė, Labanoro and Sirvėtos are three nearby.

This was never intended as a "wildlife reserve." Its people's traditional modes of farming and forestry were as integral to the habitat and scenery as the lakes and woods, so those too needed to be sustained. There was also leisure use to facilitate. Of the park's 405.7 km², only 2% is under strict control (eg rare bird nesting sites), with no visitor access. About half the area is pine forest and 25% is mixed or deciduous woodland.

The climate is that of the north temperate zone shading into boreal forests. December to Feb averages -2°C and can go below -20°C. June to Aug averages 23°C and seldom reaches 30°C - those are also the wettest months but it can rain anytime.

Visitor information is available from the park website. Their office is at Lūšių g 16 in Palūšė near the wooden church, open Tu-F 08:00-17:00, Sa 10:00-15:00.

55°21′36″N 26°4′12″E

Map of Aukštaitija National Park

55.525.61 Utena is the nearest town of any size, 50 km northwest. It's on public transport routes from Vilnius and Kaunas but you need a vehicle for the park, best hired in those big cities.

From Vilnius follow A14 north to Molėtai and branch east along Route 114 towards Palūšė and Ignalina.

55.32926.1022 Palūšė on Route 114 is a small resort village. Park Headquarters are here.

55.34126.1613 Ignalina is a small town east edge of the park. Trains from Vilnius run every three hours or so, continuing to Dūkštas, Visaginas and Turmantas on the Latvian border, see LTG Link. They no longer cross to reach Daugavpils, so this public transport route across the Baltic states has been lost.

Buses from Vilnius run roughly hourly and take two hours to Ignalina via Pabradė and Švenčionys, continuing to Visaginas. For times and fares see Autobusu Bilieitai.

There's no fee for entrance, parking or camping in your own tent. You need permits for fishing and hunting.

You need wheels. Distances are cyclable but a car is distinctly handier for toting a kayak or sheltering from the rain and midges.

Here and throughout the country, there's no parking within 20 m of a lake shore, riverbank or other open water.

• Church of St Joseph (Šv Juozapo bažnyčia) in Palūšė is a charming wooden church from 1757.
• Piliakalnis means a castle mound and they dot the landscape of Lithuania, especially in rural regions. They're hummocks, artificial though taking advantage of natural features such as an outcrop or glacial moraine, and originally reinforced by wooden palisades. Some were rebuilt as stone castles from about the 12th century but none of those in the park were of sufficient value, so they just became look-outs and kiddy toboggan runs.
• Ažušilės is a forested farmland area starting 1 km east of Ignalina. It's not within the park but has similar protection.
• Ginučiai water mill by the river bridge in Ginučiai was built late 19th century and its original equipment is still in working order.
• Ladakalnis 2 km south of the watermill has an observation tower with a view of six lakes. These much resemble the park's other 120 lakes, so there's a time-saver.
• Bee-keeping Museum is at Pabalių g 3 in Stripeikiai. It's open May-Oct Tu-Su 10:00-18:00, adult €6, conc or child €3.
• Šuminai village has a good collection of old architecture.

• Ignalina sports and entertainment center is northwest side of the village at Vasario 16-osios g 35. It's open daily and has a gym and swimming pool.
• Lithuanian Winter Sports Complex is at Sporto g 3 east edge of Ignalina. It's closed in winter 2024 / 25 but there's nothing to stop you standing in the car park chucking snowballs at each other.
• Vilkakalnio observation tower is a rickety structure by the winter sports complex.

Best bring your own supplies if you're camping. Ignalina has half-a-dozen supermarkets, largest is Norfa at Taikos g 20 north end of the village. It's open M-F 08:00-19:00, Sa Su 24 hours.

Places in Ignalina include Tuk Tuk Pizza, Spartuko stotelė kebabs, Laisvės 65, Dringis Cafe and Zuvedra Hotel.

No free-standing pub, try the cafes and restaurants.

• Zuvedra Hotel is at Mokyklos g 11 in Ignalina.
• Palūšė has the only campsite for motorhomes, with hook-ups, plus two other sites.
• Ginučiai has camping at Baidariu Uosta, Linkmenas and Almajas.
• Gaveikėnai has one site, as does nearby Meironys.
• Pakretuonė has Žeimenis site.
• Salos has Asalnykštis site.
• Vaišniūnai has Dringis site.
• Unofficial camping - it's a stretch to call it "wild" - is permitted most places except residential and crop-growing land. You may not light fires at these.

This lowland country is not ravaged by wolves, and your main risks are from traffic and petty thieving from cars and tents.

Take care on the water especially with children. Think back to what the landward temperature was like a month ago, the water temperature will reflect that as it has a lag.

Pay attention to warnings about forest fires, and in dry conditions be ready to break camp and evacuate quickly.

As of Jan 2025, Ignalia has 4G from Bite and Telia, and 5G from Tele2. The signal on the approach roads and through the park is variable.

• Vilnius the capital is must-see for its extensive baroque old town.
• Utena is modern but surrounded by lakes and forests, with a clutch of historic churches. These include the church of the "Old Believers", who resisted changes to Russian Orthodox liturgy in the 1650/60s.