Ayder Voyage Tips and guide

Contents

Ayder is a summer resort in the Eastern Karadeniz region of Turkey, at an altitude of 1350 m in the Kaçkar Mountains. It's a yayla, thronged with hikers June to August but virtually closed up in winter, so it has no resident population. There's talk of developing it also to be a winter resort - there's plenty of snow - but nothing's come of this.

Highway D010 follows the Black Sea coast east from Rize city and airport to Pazar, Ardeşen and Hopa. There it turns inland towards Kars and Allah-alone-knows-where, while E70 continues along the coast to Batumi in Georgia. The road up the valley to Ayder starts at Ardeşen and forks at Çamlıhemşin: take the side valley east for Ayder but continue straight up for Ortanköy and Zilkale. The road is wide and paved, no problem for 2WD but you need snow chains in winter.

Intercity buses ply the coast road from Istanbul via Trabzon to Hopa, Batumi and Tbilisi. Get off at Pazar the district bus terminal for a dolmuş up the valley. Don't leave it late, the last departure is by 6PM in summer.

40.954341.09851 Village centre is where the dolmuşes terminate. Taxis wait here and you could still be some distance from your accommodation.

Dolmuşes ply the valley road from Pazar, and some continue from Ayder up to Kavron.

You can start mountain hikes from here, but the road is unpleasant with all the traffic and no side-trail. Take the dolmuş up to Kavron and start there.

• 41.021341.04941 Kale Bridge is the first compulsory photo stop of the trip, a soaring single-arch Ottoman bridge next to the road.
• 40.99741.05972 Bulut Waterfall is at the foot of Kaçkar stream as it joins Kavran stream. Park by the road and hike 2 km up the lane.
• Village centre, maybe. The initial development brought a rash of ugly concrete, the same ticky-tacky that despoils much of Turkey. It was then decreed that buildings must be traditional timber chalets, or at least timber-cladded. The result is a bit ersatz, so together with the mountain scenery and the traffic barging past you could imagine yourself in Austria.
• Kırklar Mosque above village centre was built in 1959.
• 40.928340.95463 Zilkale, Zilkale Köyü Yolu. 24 hr. Shell of a Byzantine castle, perched on a cliff above the Fırtına Valley. Nothing within, you come for the views. From Ayder you have to descend the valley to meet the road from the coast at Çamlıhemşin, so it's 21 km. Free. (updated Jun 2025)
• Barely your hand in front of your face if the weather clamps down. You need a compass and the ability to use it if you leave the road.

• Hike: the principal areas are Mount Kaçkar and the three lakes. You might need a guide.
• Hamam: The village bathhouse has closed down and been demolished. A replacement is planned but there's no sign of construction as of June 2025.
• Rize Rafting hurtle downstream when water levels are suitable.

Small shops cluster around village centre and there's an ATM.

The nearest filling station is 1 km north of Çamlıhemşin. Fill up before you leave the coast highway, straining up the gradient will soon deplete the tank.

• Gagaç cafe is 200 m west of the dolmuş stop, open daily 08:00-22:00.
• Cafe Verde is a pizzeria at the dolmuş stop, open daily 09:30-23:30.
• Ayder Burger by Kuspuni Mountain House is open daily 08:00-00:00.
• Yilmaz Cafe (behind Kuspuni Mountain House), ☏ +90 464 657 2143. Daily 08:00-22:00. Mixed reviews for this place higher up the road. (updated Jun 2025)
• MoIA opposite Palazzo Hotel is open daily 08:00-00:00.
• India Gate another 200 m up the road is a welcome change from Turkish and gets good reviews. It's open daily 12:00-23:30.

No free-standing pub, try the cafes.

• Kaçkar Resort Hotel is down at the foot of the village.
• 40.955341.09661 Fora Pansiyon (Bored Board), ☏ +90 464 657 2153. Great reviews for this comfy friendly small hotel. B&B double 2500 TL. (updated Jun 2025)
• Zirve Ahsap Pansiyon is next to Fora.
• Otel Pirikoğlu is 50 m west of the dolmuş stop.
• Abduloğlu Butik Otel (Village centre), ☏ +90 464 657 2071. Clean friendly place by the dolmuş stop. B&B double 2500 TL. (updated Jun 2025)
• Yeşil Vadi Otel behind Abduloğlu Butik Otel gets good reviews.
• Haşimoğlu Spa Otel across the road from Abduloğlu is grubby and not worth the money.
• 40.952341.10412 Kuspuni Mountain House, ☏ +90 505 497 0579. Welcoming pansiyon east side of town. B&B double 3000 TL. (updated Jun 2025)
• Ayder Palazzo is a smart hotel 100 m up the road from Kuspuni.
• 40.95441.11723 Ayder Camping is 2 km east of the main village; no alcohol. A secondary cluster of hotel and self-catering chalets starts here.

As of June 2025, Ayder and its approach road from the coast have no mobile signal.

• Back to the coast road it must be. Turning west brings you to Rize and Trabzon.
• Turn east for Hopa. Here you either strike inland towards Kars, or continue into Georgia to the resort of Batumi.