Ballymena is a town in County Antrim in Northern Ireland. It was badly scarred by The Troubles, by economic decline and associated social problems, but it's nowadays a commuter town for Belfast and in 2021 had a population of 31,300. The historic counties are no longer units of government and Ballymena is now part of the Borough of Mid and East Antrim.
Understand
[edit]In Irish Baile Meánach means "the middle townland" and it is more or less central in County Antrim, midway between Belfast and Derry. It was one of the earliest Plantation towns: in 1626 the area passed to the Adair family, who held it until 1904.
Ballymena is best known as the buckle of the "Bible Belt" of Northern Ireland, and the powerbase of The Reverend Dr Ian Paisley (1926-2014). To call him a Protestant and Unionist does not begin to describe the biliousness of his position. In a political and religious career spanning over 60 years, he was fanatically opposed to civil rights or any other concessions to the Roman Catholic minority population, and he encouraged the formation of Protestant militias. He founded the Free Presbyterian Church of Ulster, a bible-literalist sect who halted the teaching of evolution in Ballymena schools. He preached that the Pope was the Antichrist, and when Princess Margaret and the Queen Mother met Pope John XXIII in 1958, Paisley condemned them for "committing spiritual fornication and adultery with the Antichrist". Later he became convinced that the European Union was a Popish plot. In 1971 he founded the Democratic Unionist Party, and was elected MP (and later MEP) by huge majorities for decade after decade. From 1977 he campaigned to "Save Ulster From Sodomy" but was unable to prevent the decriminalisation of homosexual acts. Nor was he able to block the Good Friday Agreement of 1998. He mellowed somewhat under power-sharing, in 2007 becoming First Minister of Northern Ireland, with a decent working relationship with deputy First Minister Martin McGuinness of Sinn Féin (himself deeply implicated in IRA atrocities, so the duo were dubbed "The Chuckle Brothers"). He retired from politics and his ministry in 2010, with his son Ian Paisley Jr succeeding him as MP for Mid-Antrim.
Get in
[edit]By road from Belfast city or ferry port follow M2 / A26 and reckon 30 min.
Trains run hourly, daily from Belfast Grand Central, taking 40 min via Antrim (for International Airport BFS IATA), and continuing to Coleraine, Castlerock and Derry. Change at Coleraine for trains to Ulster University and Portrush.
1 Ballymena railway and bus station is quarter of a mile west of town centre.
Goldliner Bus 218 runs hourly from Belfast Laganside, taking an hour via Antrim, and continuing to Cloughmills, Ballymoney and Coleraine.
Ulsterbus 130 runs four times M-Sa from Larne (for ferries from Cairnryan), taking 50 min.
Bus 131 / 217 runs from Ballycastle (for summer ferries from Campbeltown and Islay), taking an hour via Armoy and Cloughmills. It's hourly M-F with four on Saturday.
See Antrim for Bus 109A from Lisburn via International / Aldergrove Airport.
Get around
[edit]The town is easy to walk but you need wheels for outlying sites.
Bus 128 to Broughshane is hourly M-F, every two hours Saturday, taking 15 min.
The taxi firm is TC Bros (+44 28 2564 4440).
See
[edit]
- 1 Mid Antrim Museum, 1-29 Bridge St BT43 5EJ, ☏ +44 28 2563 5077. M-F 10AM-5PM, Sa 10AM-4PM. This is within the modern Town Hall along with Braid Arts Centre and Theatre.
- St Patrick's Church (Church of Ireland) on Castle St was opened in 1855, burnt down, and re-built to the identical design to re-open in 1881. It has a notable peal of 12 bells. It replaced a church of 1707: the tower of this remains, and there's an old graveyard.
- 2 Harryville Motte and Bailey just south of the river is a grassy hillock with views. It was a 12th century fort, probably Norman, with ditch and wooden palisade but never upgraded to a stone castle.
- 3 Broughshane is a scenic village on A42 four miles northeast of Ballymena. It's famous for its residents' gardens. By the riverside is a wildlife park, think swans and rabbits not big game.
- 4 Slemish or Sliabh Mis is the plug of an ancient volcano. It formed in the Paleogene or Tertiary Period some 23-66 million years ago, the period when mammals came to the fore. It's 437 m / 1434 ft, a "Marilyn" rising abruptly from the lowland fields - ascend from the car park to its west on Carnstroan Lane, a short, steep, rocky path. Views stretch from the Sperrins to Scotland, unless the rain's set in again. Slemish is a pilgrimage site on St Patrick's Day, as when the young Patrick was first abducted to Ireland, he worked as a herdsman here for six years.
- 5 Gracehill was founded as a Moravian settlement in 1765. It has attractive Georgian buildings focused on the church. It's one of four Moravian sites to be listed as a
UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2024. - 6 Arthur Cottage, Dreen Rd, Cullybackey BT42 1FX, ☏ +44 28 2563 5010. W-Su 11AM-3PM. Birthplace of the father of the 21st President of the US. In 1881 Chester A. Arthur was US Vice-President when Garfield was assassinated, so he became President until 1885; his health was poor and he didn't run for a second term. The cottage is restored to 18th century style. Assistance dogs only.
- 7 Portglenone Woods stretch beside the River Bann south of Portglenone village. They're carpeted with bluebells in early summer.
Do
[edit]- Braid Theatre is within Town Hall along with Mid Antrim Museum.
- Seven Towers Leisure Centre has a gym, fitness classes and pool. It's along Larne Link Rd A26 south side of town.
- Cinema: IMC Cinema is next to Seven Towers.
- People's Park is north side of town on Doury Rd, open daily 8AM-6PM.
- Walk: there are pleasant walks along both banks of the river. On the east bank Ecos Hub is a conference venue.
- Football: Ballymena United play soccer in the NIFL (Danske Bank) Premiership, the top tier in Northern Ireland. Their stadium is The Showgrounds, capacity 4390, east of town centre.
- Golf: Ballymena Golf Club is on Raceview Rd A42, two miles northeast of town towards Broughshane. It's 5249 yards, par 68.
- Galgorm Castle GC is within the grounds of Galgorm Hotel. The course off white tees is 6678 yards, par 72.
- Ballymena Agricultural Show is late May on the Showgrounds.
Buy
[edit]
- Tower Centre on Wellington St is the town centre retail mall, open daily.
- Fairhill is a larger mall half a mile north, open daily.
- Tesco on Larne Rd is open M-Sa 7AM-11PM, Su 1-6PM.
- Farmers Market is Sa 7AM-2PM in the car park of Seven Towers Leisure Centre. Or else! According to the charter of 1626, if they don't hold the Saturday market until the end of time, they have to hand the town back to the monarch.
Eat
[edit]- Mill St has Gatto's (below), Digsy's Diner, Middletown Coffee and Rococo.
- Gatto's, 88 Lower Mill St BT43 5AF, ☏ +44 28 2565 3444. W Th 5-9PM, F Sa noon-10PM, Su 1-8PM. Italian cuisine, good value.
- Church St has Nobel Cafe (below), Gwen's Cafe, Pizza Parlour, Juliano's ice cream, Papa John's Pizza and Manner House.
- Nobel Cafe, 102 Church St BT43 6DF, ☏ +44 28 2565 4302. M-Sa 8AM-5PM. Great for a traditional Ulster Fry, breakfast is served all day. Cash only.
- Ballymoney St has Crave Kitchen, Shot Cafe, Grouse Bar and Milano's.
Drink
[edit]
- Town centre has Horse & Jockey, Front Page Bar, Eden Rooftop Bar, Smoking Monkey (below), Blackstone Bar and Charlie's.
- Smoking Monkey, 7 Springwell St BT43 6AT, ☏ +44 28 2564 5234. W 5-11PM, Th-Su 11:30AM-1AM. The Grouse complex contains Smoking Monkey Bar, Grouse Restaurant and Origin Nightclub.
- The Thatch Inn is a country pub and bistro in Broughshane, 5 miles northeast on A42.
Sleep
[edit]- 1 Adair Arms, 1 Ballymoney Rd BT43 5BS, ☏ +44 28 2565 3674. Very comfy welcoming place in an 1846 building, central. B&B double £140.
- 2 Leighinmohr House Hotel, Leighinmohr Ave BT42 2AN, ☏ +44 28 2565 2313. Smart friendly place, great dining. B&B double £190.
- 3 Oranmore Guest House, 147 Galgorm Rd BT42 1DE, ☏ +44 28 2565 2239. High quality small hotel a mile west of centre. Dog-friendly. B&B double £170.
- 4 Tullyglass Hotel, 178 Galgorm Rd BT42 1HJ, ☏ +44 28 2565 2639. Excellent hotel and restaurant in a Victorian mansion, often used as a wedding venue. B&B double £200.
- 5 Maine House, 116a Fenaghy Rd BT42 1JJ (3 miles northwest of town), ☏ +44 7968 007361. Welcoming guesthouse along the Galgorm road. B&B double £130.
- 6 Galgorm, 136 Fenaghy Rd BT42 1EA (4 miles northwest of town), ☏ +44 28 2588 1001. Splendid upscale place on riverside, great reviews for comfort and service. B&B double £420.
Connect
[edit]As of Feb 2026 Ballymena and its approach roads have 4G from Three and Vodafone, and 5G from EE and O2.
Go next
[edit]- The Antrim Glens along the coast are very scenic, and quiet once you get past the Giant's Causeway.
- Antrim's one prehistoric fort and two entire castles have gone missing in action, but there are pleasant gardens on their sites. Boat trips go out on Lough Neagh.
- Circle Lough Neagh to Cookstown, where the kings of Tyrone were enthroned by waving a shoe over their head. Lots of prehistoric sites around here.
- County Londonderry starts a few miles west, and historic Derry is a must-see.
