Bocas del Toro Voyage Tips and guide

Contents

Bocas del Toro (aka Bocas Town aka Bocas) is a town in the Caribbean West of Panama. The town has an interesting mix of islanders, expats and backpackers and is the most developed in the region. The town boasts an abundance of restaurants, hotels and bars. Bocas has developed a reputation for being a party town with a number of bars and clubs that sit on the stilts over the water.

Bocas Town is on the southern tip of Isla Colón and is part of the Bocas del Toro archipelago of islands.

Further afield on the island of Colón, are a number of white sand beaches and nature reserves. Bocas also makes a good base for doing tours around the other islands. Other islands accessible by water taxi from Bocas Town include Carenero, Bastimentos, Cristóbal, and Solarte.

There is a small airport on Isla Colón with several flights from Panama City. AirPanama operates several flights a day from Albrook Airport in Panama City (not the main international airport). FlyTrip has flights from both Albrook and Tocumen although booking through them is less straight-forward than Air Panama.

It is possible to take your vehicle on the island using a car ferry. The ferry leaves Almirante port every morning at 08:00 Monday to Saturday (no service on Sundays). Cost per car is $15 and there is an extra $1 charge per passenger. The same ferry goes back to the mainland on the same days at 16:00. If you wish to leave your car on the mainland, there is a secure parking available next to where the water taxis leave in Almirante. Cost is $3 per day.

The town is on Isla Colón and you'll need to take a boat to access it. Boats departs frequently from Almirante. There is no service anymore from Changuinola. There are three operators, all offering the same service. Standard prices are $6 one-way, $10 round trip (June 2023).

An alternative is to take the truck ferry which departs Almirante every day at 07:00 and 12:00. Pedestrian passage is $3, $3.50 for a bicycle and more for motorcycles or cars. Arrive early if you have a car. The ferry returns from Bocas at 10:00 and 15:00.

From David look for buses to Changuinola and ask a driver to stop in Almirante ($8.45, 4 hr). In Almirante, get off before the bus terminal at the turn, otherwise it is a very short walk to the docks (1–1.5 km). Many decide to take the taxi ($2), which is why they do not stop near the docks.

Ignore the guys who want to walk you there as this will increase the price of your ticket to the island.

From Changuinola the bus might stop near the dock ($1.45).

From Panamá City are two buses: 07:00 and 20:00 ($27.50) (August 2022)

From Boquete you can also take a private shuttles to get to Bocas Town with a 4-hr journey to Almirante, and then the water taxi (which is included in the ticket price) to Bocas del Toro. Pana Bocas Express stops in Chiriquí Grande, before Almirante, but has a longer water taxi ride (about 1h). Reservations are recommended ($25-35) and can generally be booked to pick you up directly at your place, but be sure to confirm in advance. As of Nov 2024, Blasina Hostel advertise a $25 shuttle that leaves at 8:30; most other places charge $30, but their departures are usually around 8 am and 1 pm.

There are a few other companies also offering private buses and shuttles to Bocas from many destinations including Puerto Viejo, Panama City, San Jose and others. To check pricing, schedules and availability, click the link: Caribe Shuttle.

Bocas del Toro is a popular place for sailboats to stop and stay for awhile, with plenty of easy anchorage and a marina, and it is an authorized port of entry to Panama. If you are arriving from another country, immigration officials will come to your boat to do an inspection once you contact them upon arrival, and the crew is not supposed to leave the boat until this process is complete (though you are unlikely to be penalized if you make a mistake). If you do not have your own boat and cannot afford to charter one, it may be possible to find crew opportunities for boats coming here from elsewhere in Panama or the Caribbean.

From Sixaola in Costa Rica you get to pay a $7+1 exit fee and a $4 municipality fee to enter Panama. The border in Panama closes at 17:00 local time. The Panamanian officials frequently ask for printed proof that you are going to leave the country again. If you can't provide any such documents you might be required to buy a $14 ticket to San José. From the border there are $10 shuttles to Almirante, or you can take a bus to Changuinola ($1, 15 min) and from there a mini bus to Almirante ($1.45, 40 min).

Bocas town is small enough to walk all over. If you need a ride, cabs are plentiful and usually only cost 60 cents or so to get around town.

Not necessary for getting around the town itself, but water taxis are the main means of transport to other islands or farther-flung beaches. Fares are always charged per person, not per group, and start at $1 (from the Bocas Town waterfront to Aqua Lounge on nearby Carenero Island). Agree on the price beforehand. You can also pay before getting in if you want to make sure to get your change.

Bicycle rentals run approximately $2/hr or $10/day. There is a guy opposite the market downtown renting cruisers for $6/day, you will pay more for a mountain bike or one with electric pedal assist from the bigger hostels. The roads are flat and in good repair inside town. Cycling to Playa Bluff will require crossing some sandy areas, but nothing too challenging. Cycling to Boca del Drago takes about an hour over the hilly, sometimes-gravel road through the jungle.

Scooters can also be rented, for approximately $70/day. ATV are also available and popular.

There are two bus companies that provide service between Bocas town and Drago beach (for the starfish). They run every full hour for $3.50 (Aug 2022). If you get off a little earlier, it is $1 less (see the price sign in the bus). In case you stay along Bluff or at Skullys, entering later than the town they still demand $2.50. If you are confident, you can argue with them. At least on the way back, you can refer to the price sign.

• El Istmito
• Big Creek
• Bluff Beach – There are several hotels/restaurants in middle. Swimming can difficult but come here for unspoilt sometimes private feeling beach. Surfing is popular. About $15 taxi from town. Otherwise take the bus to the junction towards Drago ($0.50) and walk the rest.
• Starfish Beach – Take the hourly bus to Drago (45 min) and walk another 1.5-2 km from there (20 min).
• Mimitimbi Beach

• Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute Tropical Research Station – A world-class marine science research station, offering free guided tours Thursday and Friday afternoons. Located a bit outside of town.
• Finca los Monos – A private botanical garden, also just outside of town, known for its good birding and good chances to see wild monkeys and sloths. $25 admission.
• Sloths – Wild three-toed sloths can be seen anywhere in the Bocas del Toro archipelago if you're lucky, but tours offer visits to "sloth islands" where your odds are supposedly better. Package tours that only include a boat ride past the islands are unlikely to result in sightings, but more focused tours that land on the islands are more likely to be worthwhile.
• Dolphin Bay – There is a lagoon a few miles away from Bocas Town with a resident population of wild dolphins. Many day tours of the islands include stops here, and it's also possible to take a water taxi.

• Scuba Diving. Most operators offer identical dive options at the same price, with the same types of boats. The diving may not be adventurous enough for seasoned divers as most of the dives are fairly shallow (15–20 m) and the wildlife not as rich as some of the more mainstream Caribbean dive destinations. There is also another scuba operator on Isla Bastimentos. They do not hire contract dive masters. All dives are lead by the owner. About $60/two tanks, all equipment included. Certification courses from $199. (updated Mar 2019)

• Horseback riding. Horses are a way of life in Panama. It is not unusual to look out the window of your casita, and have a horse looking back. Horseback riding in Panama is mostly Western horses and Western saddles. Privately owned horses can vary from Quarter Horse to a mix of Columbian or Peruvian Paso. By breeding the two, you get a larger horse, than the traditional Paso Fino, with the smooth and lovely gait of the Paso. A great area for riding are the beaches of Bocas del Toro near Dolphin Bay'. (updated Mar 2019)

• 9.40417-82.326951 Starfish Beach (take a bus to Drago and walk another 20 min from there: follow the people). Although very touristy, go here for seeing starfish. Bring a snorkelling set. The amount of starfish can be very low, maybe you will only see 10-20 different ones. If you are keen free-diving, check out the sea weed area where also other maritime life can be found including lion fish. (updated Mar 2019)

• Zapatillas Day Tour. Even though it is very crowded and many boats go there, it can be worth it. Apparently, it also includes a visit to a starfish place with much better sight than Starfish Beach. $30 (2022/08). (updated Mar 2019)

• Red n Blue. If you're in the middle of a long trip and need to purchase something (replacements, electronics, etc.) that isn't available locally, this freight forwarding company ships Amazon packages sent to their office in Miami for a small fee. Takes around a week to arrive. (updated Jun 2023)
• Laundry (Bocas Docks) (On the water, next to the northern anchorage). Laundry and other services available. On the water so good for anyone visiting in a sailboat. (updated Jun 2023)
• Laundry (Don Chicho) (2 houses left of Heike hostel). $3.50 per load. 

There are plenty of places to eat lining the main streets of Bocas Town. Just walk around and check some out. Expect to pay about $5–7 for a cheap meal, though of course it is easy to find places where you will pay much more. Food carts can be either fairly expensive or pretty cheap, usually depending on the location and target clientele. Specialties are empanadas or fried chicken and patacones.

• El Ultimo Refugio, Av. H between C. 4a and C. 3a, ☏ +507 6726 9851. M-Sa 17:00-22:00. Fresh seafood, steak, and variations on Norte Americano-style dishes. Known for passion fruit dishes & cocktails. From $35 for two. (updated Jul 2022)
• Trattoria Pane e Vino, Av. E Nte., above Tequila Republic. Tu–Sa 12:00–21:00. Good pasta & other Italian dishes. $30 for meal with wine. (updated Jun 2023)
• Cafe del Mar, C. 1a, across from the police station. Daily 08:00-22:00. Best coffee in town. Also has good breakfast & lunch, with lots of vegan & vegetarian options. $3 for coffee, $10 for most food. (updated Jun 2023)
• La Buga Gastro Market. Daily 09:00-23:00. Interesting concept where a few different chefs have their own menus, but share a kitchen. Mexican, Italian, and even Poke bowls. Also has great cocktails. $25 for dinner and a drink. (updated Jun 2023)
• Om Cafe (Indian food), Avenue E and Calle 2 (upstairs from the surf shop), ☏ +507 6127 0671. M-F 16:30-22:30. Breakfast really shines here with the wide variety of juice blends and shakes they offer, plus a very unique eggs vindaloo dish. $30 for two, with drinks. (updated Jul 2022)

There quite a few bars in Bocas Town, and all the restaurants serve beer as well. It's not uncommon for backpackers to buy beer at one of the many small grocery stores and drink while walking down the street.

• Selina. The waterfront wooden deck bar for the massive Selina Hostel, on the first floor and open to the public. Just walk right in, or use the smaller side door through the passageway on the right later at night. As of March 2020, this seems to often be where the party is, especially before midnight. 
• Barco Hundido. A disco, built on a wooden deck, above the water with a wrecked/sunken ship under the water just beyond the deck, illuminated by bright lights. Probably one of the better bars in town, and the one that most of the town winds up at by the end of the night. 
• The Floating Bar (Must reach by water taxi). Mostly frequented by expats and locals - this makes it a great place to learn about upcoming events, off-the-beaten-path activities, or even get invited to a volleyball game. Live music on Mondays. Also one of the best places to view the bio-luminescent glow worms - once per month, check their social media for info. $2 for beer, cocktails around $6. (updated Jun 2023)

This section lists accommodations within Bocas Town. For more (and quieter) options within a short water taxi ride of Bocas Town, see Isla Carenero. There are also places to stay on the slightly-farther Isla Bastimentos, Isla Cristóbal, and Isla Solarte, still accessible by water taxi from Bocas.

• Twin Fin Hostel. Pleasant, airy budget hostel. Pretty basic, with cold showers and light air conditioning in the dorms at night only. Small bar and tables downstairs. Breakfast (two small pancakes and some fresh fruit) is included. Dorm beds from $12. 
• Cliff's Hostel. Budget hostel with a reputation for good value and a very friendly and helpful owner. 
• Selina Hostel. This is Bocas's big, slick corporate party hostel. Reputedly well-maintained. Has a hopping bar downstairs. 
• Calipso Hostel, ☏ +507 7579848. On the main street, it offers excellent dorms and private rooms. Rooms are clean with a/c and private bathroom. A shared kitchen, internet and cheap tours are available. The place is run by an extremely friendly and helpful lady. 
• Try Mondo Taito or Heike twin hostels in the town. Dorm beds are available from $10 with kind of gross shared bathrooms. Run by a group of American ex-pats. They do not take advance bookings, it is very noisy, not all that clean and not on the water, but if you are up for a party you will probably have a great time. Cheap Spanish lessons available.
• Hostelluego, Avenue G (one block beyone Mondo Taito), ☏ +507 6711-8634. Chilled out place 40 m from the party hostels. Very nice and clean, very safe. Nice chill out area, Free laptops, Wi-Fi, pancake breakfast and all rooms A/C. $10 per person dorm, $24 for a double private 
• Hotel Angela. Run by Claudio, a US expat from California. The hotel is clean and safe, located a block off the main avenue and away from traffic noise. The hotel also has its own restaurant and bar over the water. Happy hour 15:30–17:30: 2-for-1 drinks. The staff are extremely courteous and friendly. 
• Punta Caracol. A hotel of overwater bungalows a 15-min boat ride from Bocas town. Nine bungalows sit on stilts over the water, and wrap around verandas give each bungalow direct access to the water. Rates start at $285/night in the low season for the smallest bungalow, and run up to $600 for the largest bungalow in the high season. Rates include breakfast and dinner. 
• Tropical Suites, Calle Primera (Bocas Town), ☏ +507 757 9081. Check-in: Flexible, check-out: Flexible. Tropical Suites is in Bocas Town on the waterfront. There are activities all around you. The 16 large suites have a complete kitchen, breakfast bar, a large Jacuzzi and balconies. Excursions can be arranged with the reception. Boats can be moored at the hotel docks. Rates start at $140/night, including breakfast and free Wi-Fi internet, with promotional discounts during the season. Deals are available for longer stays, weekly or monthly. 
• Dolphin Bay Hideaway, Dolphin Bay (Bocas del Toro), ☏ +507 6417 7351. A small Bed and Breakfast on the shores of Dolphin Bay on the Island of San Cristobal, a 20-min boat ride from Bocas town. It is a very quiet and secluded hideaway offering personalized service. 3 beautifully decorated rooms. Meals are prepared using fresh seafood, fruits and vegetables. Room rates start at $115 and they include full breakfast and transportation to and from Bocas town. 
• Hostel Hansi. Check-out: 11:00. Extremely clean German-run hostel with fans in every room. Some rooms also have a balcony. Spacious kitchen facilities and plenty of room in the fridge. The focus is on a family-orientated hostel, rather than a backpacker hangout centered around a bar. Free Wi-Fi. Use of facilities after the checkout incurs a $2 surcharge. $25 double. 
• Hotel Olas, calle 6ta (take a left out of the launch dock, keep with the road as it curves right, pass a small playground, the hotel is on the left), ☏ +507 7579930. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. Hotel built in 2004. Clean, spacious rooms fitted with AC, wiFi, private hot showers, TV and balconies. Waterfront bar below. Bicycles, kayaks and snorkelling equipment for rent. Various island tours and expeditions can be arranged. Cake and coffee offered every morning. Great deck with hammacs to chill out. Good location. $40-60 double rooms, high season $48-68. 

Within the Bocas del Toro archipelago are a few other islands. Many visitors will split their time in Bocas between these islands.

• Isla Carenero - Smallest island, but home to some of the best restaurants and hostels.
• Bastimentos - Known for beaches, jungles, and a National Marine Park.
• Isla Cristóbal - Mostly agrarian island, mostly home to local farmers and a few small bed & breakfasts.

These destinations are a common next stop from Bocas on the Central American backpacking trail:

• Gualaca - A small mountainside community in the cloud forests south of Bocas. Known for hiking and waterfalls.
• Boquete - The well-developed town of Boquete is Panama's adventure hub, with rock climbing, hiking, river rafting, and more.
• Changuinola - Near the border with Costa Rica, of limited interest to tourists but has better shopping & supplies than Bocas.
• Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica - Anyone traveling from Bocas north to Costa Rica will pass through here.