The Bōsō Peninsula (房総半島 Bōsō-hantō) and its main city Tateyama (館山) are the southernmost part of Chiba prefecture. Rarely visited by tourists and somewhat off the radar even for locals, it mostly attracts Tokyo residents who want to go to the beach.
Understand
[edit]Tateyama City Tourist Information Office has a multilingual guide site for the area.
Get in
[edit]By plane
[edit]The cheapest and easiest way to go is by Keikyu bus from Haneda Airport & Yokohama (about every 2 hours, schedule).
By train
[edit]Express JR train from Tokyo costs ¥3,610 to Tateyama.
By ferry
[edit]The Tokyo Wan Ferry crosses the narrow outlet of Tokyo Bay from Kurihama, near Yokosuka, to Kanaya about halfway down the western coast. Tickets are ¥1100/2000 one-way/return, with around 6 services per day and a travel time of 40 minutes. Taking a car across costs ¥4300 including the driver.
By car
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In addition to the obvious option of driving down from Chiba via the Tateyama Expressway, you can also reach the peninsula via one of the greatest infrastructure projects of Bubble-era Japan, the epic 22 km, $10 billion Tokyo Bay Aqualine (東京湾アクアライン) tunnel-bridge from Kawasaki to Kisarazu. The pencil straight 9.6 km tunnel on the Kawasaki side was a popular spot for illegal street racing in the 1990s, with tricked out supercars reaching speeds of over 300 km/h. Be sure to stretch your legs at the 1 Umihotaru service area in the middle of bay, which is styled like a cruise ship and has plenty of eating options.
Get around
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The peninsula is served by two train lines, the JR Uchibō Line (内房線) on the western/Tokyo Bay side and the Sotobō Line (外房線) on the eastern/Pacific Ocean side, both starting from Chiba and meeting at Kamogawa. Services are sparse, with roughly one train per hour.
Trains don't go further south than Tateyama city, or to the interior of the peninsula. Buses fill in some of the gaps, but this is one of those parts of Japan where driving is the best way to get around.
Bicycle is also a great way to go around along the seaside.
See
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- 1 Mount Nokogiri (鋸山 Nokogiriyama). "Sawtooth Mountain" gets its name from the quarry that uses to operate here, which carved immense square chunks out of the ridge seemingly at random. The main draw is the Nihonji temple, which features a giant Kannon carved into one of the niches, an even larger Buddha statue, and a scary viewpoint oddly called "Glimpse of Hell" (地獄のぞき Jigoku-nozoki). The attractions are widely spread out and connected by steep staircases, so allow 2-3 hours and get ready for a leg workout. You can take a ropeway to the top (¥650/1200 one-way/return) or hike for free. Entrance to the temple is an additional ¥700/400 adult/child.
- 2 Sunosaki Lighthouse (洲崎灯台). A lighthouse with a great view on the sea and neighboring mountain. Sweets are sold in the small store at the bottom. Sunset spot just beside on the same hill. Free.
- 3 Flower line. A road along the coastline, bordered with flowers.
- 4 Shirohama Flower Park. Lots of flowers, and a big greenhouse where firebugs can be seen at night. ¥420.
- 5 Sand hill (砂山). A surprising mountain flanked on each side by huge sand slopes. Local kids have fun sledging or sand skiing from the top. Climbing it is a fun 5-minutes hike and offers a nice view.
Do
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Beaches are the main draw here, but don't expect Waikiki: gray sand with plenty of flotsam from Tokyo Bay is the order of the day.
- Surf anywhere on the Southwest coast
- Scuba diving
- Fishing. Get on a boat and bring home all the fish you can!
- 1 Ocean Veil Country Club. Golfing with a view. Not cheap.
Buy
[edit]It can be surprisingly difficult to find a store, so bring sunscreen.
Eat
[edit]- Sashimi and Japanese spiny lobster in Tateyama city
Drink
[edit]- 1 Motona Beach Club, ☏ +81 80-4423-7576. Daily 11am-sunset. Upmarket beach club with live DJ promising "laidback luxury" that quite frankly looks out of place on the rather drab Motona Beach. The bar/restaurant serves up fruity cocktails and Hawaiian fare. Daybeds from ¥10,000 (fits 4). Entry ¥2000/4000 weekday/weekend, children ¥1000.
Sleep
[edit]Budget
[edit]- 1 Nemoto Marine Camping Ground. Vast dune area that acts as a (paid) campground.
Mid-range
[edit]Splurge
[edit]The Kinokuniya Group (no connection to the bookstore) has a bit of a stranglehold on luxury accommodation in Boso, operating 9 locations ranging from the eponymous ryokan to more modern getaways.
- 2 Yūmi Beachside Onsen Resort (JR Hota stn). Fashionable hotel on Motona Beach, with no less than 4 reservable private rotenburo baths on the top floor. Stays include dinner and breakfast of modern Japanese dining with a fusion touch, and there's a whiskey bar with an extensive selection. From ¥20000.
Go next
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