Chalcatzingo Voyage Tips and guide

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Chalcatzingo is an archaeological site of a 3,500 year old Olmec city in the state of Morelos in Central Mexico. It is one of Mexico's oldest archaeological sites and is regarded as one of the places where Mesoamerican civilizations first developed.

Chalcatzingo is one of the earliest indigenous sites in Mesoamerica, having been settled around 1500 BC, in what anthropologists refer to as the Formative Era. It is one of the furthest sites from the center of Olmec culture, generally regarded as being on the Gulf of Mexico coast near San Lorenzo.

Chalcatzingo is known for its sculptures, including a variety of small decorative figurines but mostly for monumental relief sculptures that are referred to locally as "monuments" but are often called "stelae" by tourists who have previously visited Mayan sites.

The city was settled around 1500 BC, at its peak around 700 BC, and had begun to decline around 500 BC. Although in decline, the city was never abandoned. As the Olmec civilization declined, the city was infused with new energy as newcomers migrated to the city from Teotihuacan, which was the rising power of the last centuries BC.

Land around Chalcatzingo is mostly flat except for the two towering hills of basalt that rise up from the valley floor. Cerro Chalcatzingo is the hill closest to the ruins. Cabeza de Chango (Monkey Head) is the hill close to the highway. Both hills have several names that locals use interchangeably. The two hills are about 2 km apart.

Chalcatzingo is 80 km from Cuernavaca.

You can rent a car, or use a taxi or Uber to drive to the Chalcatzingo. From Cuernavaca, drive southeast on federal highway MEX-115-D. There are tolls on this route. The 80 km trip will take just over an hour.

You can reach the ruins using second-class buses. From Cuernavaca, TER (Transportes Estrella Roja) operates buses at least hourly to Cuautla, where you will catch a Volcanes bus to Amayuca, which is very close to the Chalcatzingo archaeological zone. Volcanes runs buses roughly every 30 minutes (sometimes more often). These are second-class buses which stop frequently, so the trip will likely take 2 hours (or longer if you have to wait long between buses in Cuautla).

INAH charges a site entry fee of M$85.

The archaeological site is open Wednesday through Monday from 09:00 to 16:00. The site is closed on Tuesdays.

With its flat terrain and lightly traveled roads, Chalcatzingo is a perfect for exploring by bicycle, though distances are short enough that walking is a perfectly good way to get around. If you do use a bike, bring a lock because you'll want to leave it for an hour or two (at least) when you climb the hills.

The site includes one large pyramid, several stone platforms that once had wood structures on them, and groups of monuments (comprising large stone tablets with relief sculptures). The sculptures are often in very good condition (much better than the far younger Mayan stelae found at sites in the Yucatan and Guatemala, which often have significant erosion).

• Monument 1, known as El Rey or Water Dancing is the site's most famous relief sculpture. It shows a figure thought to be either the king or an early Olmec rain god (perhaps the original source of the Aztec culture's rain god, Tepeyollotl, sitting on a throne in a cave, gazing out as rain clouds loom overhead and big fat drops fall from the sky.

• Group 2 has several stone relief sculptures that are thought to be a representation of a mythological tale. Sculptures include:
  • Monument 5 shows a dragon thought to be an ancestor of the Aztec's feathered serpent
  • Monument 4 shows two humans getting attacked by two jaguars
  • Monument 3 shows a jaguar chilling out next to a cactus
  • Monument 31 (shown in image) is a jaguar enjoying a human dinner as drops of rain fall from the sky
  • Monument 2 shows 3 masked humans with a human captive as jaguars look on approvingly

• Monument 21 is thought to be the oldest existing representation of a woman in Mesoamerican art

• Chalcatzingo Pyramid - Large classic pyramid temple in the shadow of a nearby hill. The pyramid is built using stone blocks of about a meter in length. It was built after 500 BC and is the work of Teotihuacanos, not the original Olmec city dwellers.

• Ball court - the site does have a traditional Mesoamerican ball court, but it too is the work of the Teotihuacanos, not the Olmec.

• Site Museum - a small site museum operated by INAH provides interpretive exhibits about the site's history and the early Olmec civilization, only a few fairly small relics from the site are displayed as most of the significant works are in museums.

• 18.691122-98.7879861 Hacienda Montefalco, Ave. San Josemaría Escrivá S/N. Historic colonial era Hacienda established in 1616 by Don Pedro de Aragón, 4th Marquis del Valle and grandson of Don Pedro Cortés (one of the original conquistadors from the early 16th century). It was originally operated as a sugar plantation. In 1951, it was bequeathed to the Opus Dei religious order, who renovated the property and today operate it as a seminary and spiritual retreat center. (updated Jan 2025)

• swim or hang out in the pools at Balneario los Cuexcomates or Piedra Rajada (both close to the archaeological zone)
• Hike to the top of the two big hills that dominated the local landscape. There are multiple routes to the top, which afford excellent vistas of the valley and the archaeological zone

• 18.678439-98.7732821 Cocina Tradicional de Josefina Tadeo Rendón, Chalcatzingo (directly across from the site museum). Informal locally owned business serving regional cuisine inspired by indigenous traditions. Closest food to the archaeological ruins. M$100. (updated Jan 2025)
• 18.694449-98.8015542 Jona Fried Chicken, Cuautla N°69, La Capilla, Jonacatepec (5 km west of Chalcatzingo on the main drag in Jonacatepec), ☏ +52 735 355 0532. M-Sa 10:00 - 18:00, closed Su. When locals get a hankering for fried chicken, they head over to Janacatepec for some tasty, greasy JFC. It's dedo-lickin' good! M$100. (updated Jan 2025)

• 18.688191-98.7711521 Olmeca Hostal, C. Lerdo de Tejada 17, ☏ +52 552 133 8057. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Modern hostal with clean, spacious rooms that have comfortable beds. Guide services offered to hike the nearby hills or visit the archaeological site. At 1 km from the archaeological site, it is easily walkable, or better yet, biked. (updated Jan 2025)
• 18.679613-98.8036822 Hotel La Casona de Doña Mary, Niño Perdido 15, Centro, Jonacatepec (about 5 km west of Chalcatzingo), ☏ +52 735 355 0141. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate traditional hotel with clean rooms that have minimal furnishings but WiFi, cable TV, and air conditioning are included. Off-street parking is available but the lot is small and cars are frequently blocked in. M$400. (updated Jan 2025)

Two camping areas are located very close to the archaeological zone:

• 18.682484-98.7717213 Balneario Los Cuexcomates (Cuexcomates Spa), Ruinas de Chalcatzingo, ☏ +52 735 322 1398. Daily 09:00 - 18:00. Quiet, well maintained open park with two large swimming pools, camping areas, palapas (some with picnic tables and grills), restrooms. M$50 (park entry), M$100 (camping fee). (updated Jan 2025)

• 18.684369-98.7731264 Piedra Rajada, Ruinas de Chalcatzingo, ☏ +52 735 246 3924. Camping, lodge, spa, and restaurant owned and operated by a group of indigenous women. Tent camping is available as well as cabanas and lodge rooms. The camping area has a clean bathhouse with toilets and showers. The restaurant is very eclectic serving locally sourced foods prepared with traditional Nahuatl recipes. Swimming pools and palapas with picnic tables are available for guests or day use visitors. (updated Jan 2025)

The trails to the hilltops are not technically difficult but are steep and may have loose gravel and stones. Boots or other sturdy shoes are recommended. Bring drinking water with you as potable water sources are not readily available. Wear a hat and use sunscreen. Be aware that snakes and scorpions are common on the hills and around the archaeological zone so watch where you put your feet and hands.

• Cuernavaca
• Zacualpan
• Cuautla
• Sierra de Huautla Biosphere Reserve