Cocula is a small city of about 16,500 people (2020) in a mountainous area of Jalisco. It is a tranquil town full of colonial era architecture and style, but is best known as the birthplace of mariachi music. Cocula is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.
Understand
[edit]The town and its nearby areas was originally settled about 1,000 years ago by the Coca people, an indigenous population. The Coca were periodically attacked by rival indigenous populations and the town moved locations a few times over the centuries, eventually stabilizing on a mountain top. Spanish conquistadors arrived in 1521 under the command of Alonso de Avalos who informed the Coca that they now had the honor of being subjects of the Spanish crown. In 1532, Franciscan friars rode in to to town. The Franciscans thought that the town would be better off if it were located in the valley near the river instead of on a mountain top.
The town's slogan is "La Cuna del Mariachi," referring to the origin of mariachi music in the 19th century. Arches at the town entrance are decorated with violins and guitars. A number of famous mariachis have come from Cocula. You can find out more about Cocula's claim to fame at the town's Mariachi Museum.
Get in
[edit]
By bus
[edit]From Guadalajara, go to the Central Camionera (New Bus Station). Flecha Amarilla operates hourly first-class buses to Cocula. Buses go direct and the trip takes about 90 minutes; the fare costs about M$100 each way.
- 1 Central de Camiones Primera Plus (Bus Station), Morelos 5, Centro. Small waiting area but its clean. Buses depart hourly for Guadalajara and other destinations in Jalisco. Buses are clean and comfortable.
By car
[edit]Cocula is 73 km southwest of Guadalajara via federal highway MEX-80. There is usually heavy congestion getting out of the Guadalajara Metro area, but once free of the city, traffic moves well and the road is in generally good condition. The drive will take about 90 minutes (no time saving vs. taking the bus).
Get around
[edit]The downtown area (Centro) is easily managed by walking, but taxis are often needed to fully explore the city. Taxis can usually be found at a sitios next to the Zocalo.
See
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- 1 Museo de la Cuna Mundial del Mariachi (Mariachi Museum), ☏ +52 377 773 0000. Daily 09:00 - 15:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Small local history museum with 2 galleries focused on mariachi music. One rooms is mostly newspaper clippings, the other showcases articles of clothing and musical instruments. Free (donations welcome).
- 2 Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel (St. Michael the Archangel Church), 16 de Septiembre. Neo-classic colonial-era church dating from the 16th century, known for its extensive collection of religious art, especially its iconic statues.
- 3 Templo Purisima, Victoriano Martínez, Centro. Beautiful pink quarry stone colonial church, built by the Franciscans in the 16th century as part of a hospital complex built to care for the local indigenous population. Large garden courtyard entryway.
Do
[edit]Buy
[edit]- 1 Mercado Municipal (Market), C. Presbítero Roman Terán, Centro. Daily 07:00 - 16:00. The town's traditional central market fills with vendors early each morning, bringing fresh fruits, vegetables, dairy products, meat and baked goods to supply the town's restaurants and kitchens. A number of vendors prepare regional foods for sale at low prices. The market is a good place for a budget traveler to find delicious and unusual meals at frugal prices.
Eat
[edit]- 1 Birriería Pelé Campestre, Calle Alvaro Obregon 55, La Ascención, ☏ +52 377 773 4977. Daily 09:30 - 18:00. Locals swear this is the best birria in Cocula, and they may be right. The restaurant serves big bowls of traditional birria made with whole cuts of meat (bone in). Full bar serving big margaritas. Generous portions at reasonable prices. M$200.
- 2 Mariscos La Gallina, Vicente Guerrero 245, San Pedro, ☏ +52 377 773 2383. Daily 10:00 - 18:00. Clean, bright seafood restaurant serving traditional Mexican dishes like shrimp a la diabla, filete and more. The empanizados are excellent as is the molcajete filled with chilled seafood. M$200.
- 3 Mi Gusto Es, Carr. a Barra de Navidad 144, Santiago, ☏ +52 377 773 3481. Daily 12:00 - 20:00. Traditional Mexican restaurant with a lively, casual dining room serving regional specialties. Of course they have birria, but locals particularly recommend the momias (cheese stuffed shrimp wrapped in bacon and grilled). M$200.
- 4 Taquerías De Cocula Es El Mariachi, Villa Corona - Cocula 100a, Rinconada, ☏ +52 375 116 1177. Daily 07:00 - 23:30. This is the place to go for cheap eats or late night munchies. Many varieties available, topped with fresh diced onions and cilantro. Suadero, lengua, labios and lots of things you're best off not thinking too hard about. If in doubt, just order the tacos al pastor. M$100.
Drink
[edit]Sleep
[edit]- 1 Casa Morada, López Cotilla 75, San Pedro, ☏ +52 331 712 6341. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Charming small hostel with colonial decor, clean rooms and a tranquil outdoor garden.
- 2 Casa Cocula, Adrian Puga 29, Centro, ☏ +52 377 773 5602. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Well kept small hotel with colonial architectural touches but modernized rooms that are clean, spacious, and well furnished. On-site restaurant serves breakfast on an outdoor patio.
- 3 Hotel Nandino, Calle Luis Echeverria 30, San Juan, ☏ +52 377 773 2444. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Basic hotel with barebones rooms that lack amenities. Off-street parking available. M$1000.