Understand
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With a total area of over 2,356 km², the Geopark covers much of four districts within Ha Giang Province: Meo Vac, Dong Van, Yen Minh, Quan Ba. The park shares a border with China in the north. Dong Van Karst Plateau became the 77th member of the Global Geopark Network in 2010, as the first global Geopark in Vietnam and the second in Southeast Asia. This has sped up regional and international integration.
There are 17 ethnic groups living within the park. In the valleys and foothills are villages and rice terraces predominantly of the Yao (Vietnamese: Dao) and Tay (Thổ) peoples. In the rocky highlands, the Hmong (Vietnamese: Mẹo) people grow corn on the steep slopes unsuitable for other crops.
History
[edit]As with other parts of the Himalayan foothills, most ethnic groups originated in what is now China, and gradually migrated south, especially after persecution by the Qing dynasty (1644–1912). They are now split between northern Vietnam and southern China.
Most villages in this area used to rely on communal subsistence farming, but are transitioning to a tourism-based economy. The national government has built many new schools since the UNESCO designation, improving literacy rates for children in the area.
Landscape
[edit]About 80% of the geopark is limestone karst, characterized by sharp, rising elevations, flat valleys, and natural caves. Its average elevation is 1400-1600 m above sea level. Notable geological features include the system of fault valleys in Nho Que river, Tu San Canyon, Ma Pi Leng Pass, and Quan Ba.
The sedimentary stone strata harbor fossils of ancient sea creatures from 400-600 million years ago. 26 such species were first found here, and are named after the province.
Flora and fauna
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The park is rich in species of conifers and birds. Other notable species include the Asian black bear, southern serow (a solitary mountain goat), and the critically endangered Tonkin snub-nosed monkey, only found in Hà Giang province was believed extinct until its rediscovery in the early 1990s.
While wandering through the park, you will be surprised to see such a variety of plants in one area, firs growing next to banana trees.
Climate
[edit]Dong Van has a temperate climate. The rainy season is from May to October, and the dry season is from November to April. The annual mean temperature is 24-28°C, while the winter temperatures can go down to 5°C.
Spring is a beautiful season, when the yellow mustard flowers and pink flowers blossom at the base of the mountains; people also visit in October and November for the purple buckwheat flowers.
Get in
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Ha Giang city, the most common gateway to the park, is about 30 km to the southwest via National Route 4C. Ha Giang city is well-connected to Hanoi and other popular tourism destinations in Northern Vietnam.
By motorcycle
[edit]You can rent a motorbike in Ha Giang for 250,000 dong/manual motorbike/day, 300,000 dong/scooter/day. You must pay for oil and gas yourself.
By car
[edit]Rent a private car if you go with a gang. Price is 2-3 million dong/day for a car, depending on how big the car is. Not all of the roads are wide enough for car traffic, and some stretches are too steep or in poor condition. The motorbike drivers are reckless.
By bus
[edit]From Ha Giang Bus Station, there are 24-seat public buses to Dong Van from providers such as A Sinh Bus, Cau Me Bus, Hung Hoa Bus. The bus to Dong Van takes 6 hours and does not stop at beautiful and famous places. The right-hand side (from Hà Giang) has the better view. 100,000 dong/person.
Fees and permits
[edit]In order to travel past Ha Giang city, you need a “Permit to Enter the Border Area”:
- 1 Ha Giang Immigration Office, 415a, Tran Phu (heading north, it is just before Nguyen Thai Hoc/QL34 merges with Tran Phu, across the road from the cinema/the stadium). Reportedly daily (Vietnamese holidays excluded) 07:30-11:30, 13:30-17:00. Best to arrive in the morning or early afternoon and not leave anything too late. The process to get your permit in Ha Giang is very easy. First you walk into the immigration office and approach the window. If you are a Westerner, the officers will know straight away that you are there to purchase a permit for the North. You need to hand over your original passport. If you don’t have this with you, give them a photocopy of your picture page and visa of your passport, along with a letter stating that your passport is in Hanoi receiving a visa extension (or any other legitimate excuse as to why you don’t have it with you). If you have a motorcycle with you, they will need your registration plate number to put on your permit. They then fill out the permit card for you. Hand the money over, and they will give you back your passport and your new shiny permit. 210,000 dong, or about US$10.
- Ask a hotel or guesthouse in the region to handle the permit for you. They usually charge 300,000 dong/permit.
Get around
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By motorcycle
[edit]Motorcycles are the most popular way to see the region, granting the freedom to go off and explore the narrow roads to every corner of the park.
Confident riders can drive themselves, but road conditions are highly variable and the steep terrain is challenging and unforgiving. If you want to ride by yourself, you must have an International Driving Permit and a valid motorcycle license. The police set up checkpoints along the tourist loop to strictly enforce compliance, such as at Ha Giang, Dong Van and Meo Vac. It is not clear whether the police distinguish between the 1968 Vienna convention, which Vietnam belongs to, and the 1949 Geneva convention IDP, which some English-speaking countries belong to, but Vietnam does not recognize.
It is more common for international tourists to hire an "easy rider" (Vietnamese: xe ôm), which means to ride on the back of the bike seat with a local driver. You pay for the driver, their meals, etc. In return, you get an expert driver that is familiar with local conditions.
Due to the difficult hilly terrain, scooters are not used here. Common rental motorcycle models are Honda Wave/Blade 110cc clutchless "semi-automatic" (most popular with the locals), Honda XR150L 150cc manual off-road and Honda Winner/Winner X 150cc manual underbone. Daily rental prices are 280,000 dong for semi-automatic and from 350,000 dong for manual models.
The road conditions range from acceptable tarmac (QL4C national road) to gravel to nearly impassable at some points, due to deep mud. There are no signs forewarning such road conditions.
See
[edit]The Ha Giang Loop is a 350 km route through the Dong Van Plateau, with views of karst formation and cascading rice paddies. It drives by many of the listings below.
Near Tam Son
[edit]- 1 A Boong Waterfall.
- 2 Fairy Bosom. Two even hills lying side by side, with a bra made of trees.
- 3 Lung Ho Fort (Di tích đồn Pháp). Ruins of a French military post constructed in 1935.
- 4 Lung Khuy Caves (Dragon Rock Cave). A large karst cavern located near Quan Ba. The cave was originally used locally for its spring, but was opened for tourist sightseeing several years ago by the national government. A dedicated non-slip footpath has been installed with handrailings. The cave has many stunning features, including stalagmites, stalactites, flowstone, and drapery. The cave is a half-hour hike up from the parking lot and admission is only by cash, but is owned collectively by the local village.
- 5 Khau Làn waterfall. A short and steep trail leads to a secluded 20 m waterfall and swimming hole.
- 6 Quản Bạ Pass (Heaven's Gate). The road to Quan Ba Heaven gate is winding, twisty crossing limestone mountains. At 1945 m, the viewpoints on both sides of the pass is one of the highlights of the park. From the top of the Heaven Gate, you can look down across a large valley of unending terraced fields, displaying a charming beauty like a paradise dimly visible through the clouds.
- 7 Tham Luồng Cave (Hang Tham Luồng) (from QL4C, turn off 200 m to Tan Son, turn left, then just under 4 km). 9:00-16:00.
- 8 Thâm Luông Waterfall (Du Già Waterfall, Thác Du Già). Two large and several smaller cascades, one with a pond for swimming. Somewhat remote, the gravel path can be difficult to find.
Near Dong Van town
[edit]- 9 Dong Van Old Town (Dong Van Old Quarter). The quarter was built in the early 20th century and has a few families of the Hmong, Tay still living in it. The oldest house is the house of Luong family, built in 1860. The common architecture here is the two-story house and yin and yang roofs. Hostels and hotels are common, but may fill up quickly in peak season. Saturday nights, the plaza has a community party. On Sunday mornings there is a regional market—arrive before 9am to see locals shopping, and after for tourist wares.
- 10 Dong Van Fort. Above Dong Van, the French built a fort in 1925. The remains, partially restored in 2013, overlook the entire town.
- 11 Hmong King Palace (Dinh Vua Mèo or Dinh Nhà Vương), Sa Phin commune, Dong Van district (around 23 km from Dong Van Town). 08:00-17:00. This historical landmark of the local Hmong ethnic group was built in the early 20th century in the form of the letter 王 (meaning "king" in English). Vuong King (Vuong Chinh Duc) became rich from dealing goods, especially opium, as Sa Phin is in the middle of the the Golden Triangle region. The building imitates ancient Chinese architecture from the Man Thanh dynasty, and features carvings in Hoa Nam style. The 1120 m² grounds were chosen for feng shui, and also sight lines, as it was also a military fortress. Duc set up his own army unit of loyal Hmong people and equipped them with weapons, some of which are on display. 20,000 dong.
- 12 Làng Văn Tourist Village (Chuyện của Pao). This village showcases minority culture. The turnoff to the right is clearly marked by a labeled gate.
- 13 Lung Cu Flag Tower, Lung Cu commune, Dong Van district (27 km from Dong Van town up to the North). Built on the top of Dragon Mountain, and modeled on the flag tower of Hanoi. Plug in the 12.9 m flagstaff is a national flag with an area of 54m², representing for 54 ethnic groups of Vietnam. At the foot tower, there is a commemorative house, where displays production tools, costumes and cultural products of the ethnic groups in Ha Giang. From distances, Lung Cu is very spectacular with three quarters of the land covered with stone, a national flag pole erected on the top of the mountain, which is surrounded with magnificent and majestic mountain forests at 1,600 m above sea level. 20,000 dong.
- 14 Ma Pi Leng Pass, Pai Lung commune, Meo Vac district, on National Road 4C connecting Dong Van and Meo Vac districts. Ma Pi Leng is a high mountain pass on the famous Sky Path. This is one of the most complex parts of the karst plateau typified by continuous karst pyramids, karst cones, slopes and karst walls. At a length of 7 km and 70-90° steep cliffs, this is the most spectacular landscape on the karst plateau. The canyon below the pass is the deepest of its kind in Vietnam. The pass itself can be reached by motorbike, however, it is a dangerous and narrow concrete path.
- 15 Nhà Há Súng. A traditional extended family house, open to visitors.
- 16 Pho Bang Village (30 km from Dong Van Town). A peaceful and calm town that is home of Hoa and Hmong ethnicities. The houses here embrace the traditional architecture of wooden columns and mud walls.
- 17 Sà Phìn. A Hmong village very close to the border, known for its Chinese-style houses with yellow bricks.
Near Meo Vac
[edit]- 18 Pả Vi. A hexagonal, wagon-like Hmong “cultural tourism village” geared towards visitors. Among other things, herbal baths are offered.
- 19 Tràng Hương. Village in the Nho Que valley. There are tour boats in the narrow river with turquoise water (round trip 1 hour) as well as kayak rentals.
Do
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- Dong Van market, in the centre of Dong Van Old Quarter. Sundays. On sale are local products made by Hmong, Han, Dao, Giay and Tay ethnic people. To reach the market on time they have to leave their homes very early in the morning or even one day earlier. At the market, people in different ethnic groups mingle with people from outside their small village to find their life-partners.
- Ha Giang Sky Path (Sky Path). A 7-km hiking trail, high above the highway, near Ma Pi Leng Pass. It is accessible by stopping at the side of the road, and looks rather like a sidewalk going up the mountainside. Motorbikes are allowed for most of the road, and locals will ride past you if you are hiking. The end of the Sky Path is a gorgeous ~2km hike along a narrow trail cut into the karst cliff walls with stunning views of the landscape, river, and local farms.
Buy
[edit]Mint honey from Dong Van Plateau has a delicate taste of mint, and is much lighter sweetness than other honey. Mint honey is said to strengthen health, and cure respiratory illness, digestive troubles, obesity, anxiety, dry cough and laryngitis. Mint honey can be bactericide to cure burns. Mint honey can also be used to soften skin and make skin ruddy.
Much of the wares in the local markets are supplied by China. Many of the traditional costumes on offer at the Sunday markets in Dong Van or Mèo Vạc come from factories across the border and are made of cheap synthetic fabric. That said, there are locally produced handicrafts worth seeking out. The Hmong people produce linen clothing, bags, and blankets.
- 1 Lung Tam Linen weaving products, Lung Tam village, Quan Ba district, ☏ +84 1255 147 665 (Ms Mai). Unique linen clothes, bags, handbags, scarfs, pillows, blankets, and purses. Every linen cloth weaving have traditional patterns, with the images bring the culture and color of the Hmong ethnic people by complicated indigo dyeing and beewax batik drawing process. Mrs Mai is the leader of Lung Tam linen weaving cooperative.
Eat
[edit]Most homestays will include a meal with your booking. Food is generally served communally with dipping sauces. If eating with a tour group, expect some combination of chicken, pork belly, stir-fried beef with a green vegetable, tofu in tomato sauce, fried spring rolls, omelette, and fruit.
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Hmong cuisine, from the people inhabiting the rocky highlands, is based on the main staple of corn:
- Thang Co — "pan soup", cattle intestine soup. A dish of the Hmong people traditionally made from meat and parts of a horse, including the head, legs, and intestine. However, it can be processed with other cattle meat like buffalo, cow, or goat. Thang Co is usually eaten with men men. The colder it is, the more delicious Thang Co is!
- Men men — steamed cakes made of non-glutinous corn flour. Processing requires much time: split the corn, grind corn into flour and sift to remove corn skin. Men men is steamed twice: In the first steaming, corn flour absorbs water to keep the flour non-glutinous, then the flour is left to get cold before the second steaming. Hmong families steam men men from early morning for the whole day. It is eaten with a soup, usually pumpkin soup or mustard greens soup.
- Au tau porridge
Drink
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Corn wine, also referred to as happy water, is made from corn planted in the rocky terraces of Hmong people. The corn is fermented along with more than 30 different leaves and herbs in the forest. The result is similar to unaged white whiskey. The corn wine is served with daily meals and for special occasions such as meeting friends, weddings or funerals. You can taste corn wine for free and buy in every local market.
Most guesthouses have a karaoke machine, which can get heavy use after a tour group settles in for the evening.
Sleep
[edit]- 1 Hoa Cuong Hotel, Dong Van, ☏ +84 219 3856 868, [email protected]. US$18-30.
- 2 Lam Tung Hotel, Đường Phố Cổ kéo dài, Phố Cổ, Đồng Văn, ☏ +84 219 3856 789, +84 965062062, [email protected]. US$17-22.
Stay safe
[edit]Motorbike crashes are very common. Always wear a helmet and ride with an experienced guide.