Donghae (동해) is a coastal city in Gangwon, South Korea.
Understand
[edit | edit source]Donghae is a sizable port on the east coast of Gangwon province in South Korea.
History
[edit | edit source]Earliest records show that a settlement was built here in 1631 by King Injo of the Joseon dynasty.
In 1980, Mukho-eup, Myeongju-gun, and Bukpyeong-eup, Samcheok-gun, were merged and promoted to the city of Donghae due to their urbanization as a thriving heavy chemical industry, fishing base, and trading port. The name is derived from the nearby East Sea, internationally called the Sea of Japan.
Until the larger Donghae Port was built further south, Mukho Port was the biggest outlet in Korea for coal and cement from the mines inland. The name Mukho means "ink lake"; according to local tradition, an official sent after a tidal wave in the early 19th century chose it because the sea, the water and even the seabirds here looked black.
Orientation
[edit | edit source]The city grew out of two towns. Mukho (묵호) in the north is the old harbor district, with Mukho Station, the fish market and the ferry terminal for Ulleungdo. Bukpyeong (북평) in the south is home to Donghae Station and the industrial Donghae Port. Between them is Cheongok-dong (천곡동), the modern downtown with city hall and Cheongok Cave.
Most of the sights are in Mukho, packed onto the steep hill above the harbor: Mukho Lighthouse, the mural lanes of Nongoldam-gil and Dojjaebigol Sky Valley are all within about 1 km of Mukho Station. Mangsang Beach is about 5 km further north, and Chuam Beach and its Candle Rock are at the southern end of the city, about 4 km east of Donghae Station.
Get in
[edit | edit source]By train
[edit | edit source]KTX high-speed trains from Seoul (Seoul Station and Cheongnyangni) run via Gangneung to Mukho and Donghae stations. Since 2025, the coastal Donghae Line also links the city south to Samcheok, Pohang, Gyeongju and Bujeon Station in Busan, with ITX-Maum trains since Jan 2025 and KTX-Eum high-speed trains since Dec 2025. Slower Mugunghwa trains that cross the mountains on the Yeongdong Line end at Donghae Station.
For the harbor, the lighthouse and the fish market, get off at Mukho. Donghae Station is in Bukpyeong, closer to Chuam Beach.
- 1 Mukho Station (묵호역), 520 Haean-ro (Balhan-dong, about 1 km from Mukho Port). The station for the Mukho harbor area. The Haeparang Trail's course 34 starts here.
- 2 Donghae Station (동해역), 69 Donghaeyeok-gil (Bukpyeong). The end of the line for Mugunghwa trains on the Yeongdong Line, and the station nearest Chuam Beach.
By ferry
[edit | edit source]Ferries to Ulleungdo leave from Mukho Port, about 1 km from Mukho Station.
- 3 Mukho Port Coastal Passenger Terminal (묵호항연안여객선터미널), 22 Ilchul-ro, ☏ +82 33 531-5891. Seaspovill's Sea Star 1 sails daily at 08:00 to Dodong on Ulleungdo (2 hr 40 min) and returns from Ulleungdo at 12:30. Extra sailings are added on holidays and in summer. Fares include the terminal fee, but a fuel surcharge may be added, and the higher fare applies on weekends, public holidays and peak travel periods. There is only one class of seating. Sailings are often changed or cancelled in rough seas, so call the operator (1577-8665) before you set out. Cars cannot be taken on this route. Parking at the terminal costs ₩7,000 per day. One way: adults ₩65,500 (₩71,900 on weekends and holidays), children aged 1–11 ₩32,750 (₩35,950).
International ferries leave from the Donghae Port International Passenger Terminal (210 Daedong-ro, Songjeong-dong) in Bukpyeong, not from Mukho. As of 2026, Duwon Shipping's Eastern Dream sails once a week to Vladivostok in Russia (Mondays) and once a week to Sakai Minato in Japan (Thursdays). The DBS Cruise Ferry service mentioned in older guides ended in 2020.
Get around
[edit | edit source]By bus
[edit | edit source]For visitors who want to go to other places in Donghae City, local buses can be a good way to get around. However, the number of buses that run after 18:00 decreases, so visitors looking to catch a bus should be aware of this.
By taxi
[edit | edit source]Compared to the bus, it's more comfortable and less time-consuming. The base fee is 3,800 \, with a 20% night surcharge from 00:00 to 04:00.
By foot
[edit | edit source]Donghae's sights are spread across several areas a few kilometers apart, so you will need a bus or taxi to get between Mukho, downtown and Chuam. Mukho itself is compact enough to see on foot: Mukho Lighthouse, Nongoldam-gil, the Haerang Observatory and Kkamak Rock are all within 500 m of Dojjaebigol Sky Valley. From the fish market by the harbor, the four lanes of Nongoldam-gil climb to Mukho Lighthouse, 67 m above the sea, with the Sky Valley just beyond. The lanes are narrow and steep and not suitable for wheelchairs; a road also leads up to the lighthouse, so you can take a taxi up and walk down. From the lighthouse the coast road, Ilchul-ro, runs north past Kkamak Rock to Eodal Port and Eodal Beach, with a bike path along the sea.
See
[edit | edit source]- 1 Cheongok Golden Bat Cave (천곡황금박쥐동굴), 50 Donggul-ro (Cheongok-dong, downtown), ☏ +82 33 539-3630. 08:30–18:00 daily. A limestone cave in the middle of downtown, found in 1991 during construction work. About 700 m of its 1.4 km length is open to visitors, with stalactites, curtain-shaped formations and a flowstone "waterfall", and it stays at 14–15°C all year. In 2005 an endangered golden bat (red bat) was found living inside. Last entry is at 17:30, and the cave is not suitable for wheelchairs. On the hill above, a nature park has a boardwalk around sinkholes formed by the same limestone. Adults ₩5,000, reduced fares ₩2,000–3,000, under 7 free.
- 2 Chuam Candle Rock (추암 촛대바위), 17-1 Chotdaebawi-gil (at the north end of Chuam Beach), ☏ +82 33 530-2801. 24 hours daily. A slender pillar of rock rising from the sea among smaller rock formations, at the southern edge of the city. The sunrise behind it appears at the start of the national anthem on Korean television, and it is a popular place to watch the sun come up. In the Joseon era the official Han Myeong-hoe was so taken with this stretch of coast that he named it Neungpadae. A 72-m suspension bridge over the sea, opened in 2019, gives another view of the rocks; it closes in bad weather. The path to the rock itself is not suitable for wheelchairs. Free.
- 3 Daejin Beach (대진해변), 1-3 Mangsang-dong (on the coast road between Eodal and Mangsang beaches), ☏ +82 33 530-2447. 24 hours daily. A small beach beside Daejin fishing port. The water is shallow and the waves are moderate, which makes it popular for surfing. There is free parking for about 50 cars. Free.
- 4 Dojjaebigol Haerang Observatory (도째비골 해랑전망대), 13-2 Mukhojin-dong (on the coast road below Dojjaebigol Sky Valley), ☏ +82 70 8883-4708. 10:00–21:00 daily. A footbridge that runs out over the sea, with sections of glass and steel-mesh floor so you can watch the waves break beneath your feet. It stays closed in bad weather. Free.
- 5 Eodal Port (어달항), 230 Ilchul-ro (about 1 km north of Mukho Lighthouse), ☏ +82 33 530-2272. A small fishing harbor, developed from 1984 and home to about 70 boats. You can walk out along the breakwaters to the lighthouses at either end, past tetrapods painted in bright colors. Anglers fish for flounder from the breakwater or on small charter boats, and seafood restaurants line the road behind the port. Free.
- 6 Kkamak Rock (까막바위), 141 Ilchul-ro (300 m north of Mukho Port on the coast road). 24 hours daily. A black rock just offshore, named for the crows (kkamagwi) said to have nested on it; it is also said to lie due east of Namdaemun gate in Seoul. According to local legend, a village headman of the Joseon era was reborn as an octopus to drive off Japanese pirates and still lives in a cave beneath the rock. An octopus statue on the shore marks the story. Free.
- 7 Mukho Byeolbit Village Observatory (묵호 별빛마을전망대), 15-122 Mukhojin-dong (climb the stairs by the Little Prince photo spot on the way from Dongjjok Bada Jungang Market to Nongoldam-gil), ☏ +82 33 530-2570. 24 hours daily. A viewing platform above Mukho Port, built between 2016 and 2021 as part of a project to renew the hillside neighborhood. The houses on the way up have brightly painted roofs and walls, and the platform looks straight down over the harbor.
- 8 Mukho Lighthouse (묵호등대), 289 Haemaji-gil (at the top of Nongoldam-gil), ☏ +82 33 531-3258. 06:00–20:00 (Apr–Oct), 07:00–18:00 (Nov–Mar). First lit in 1963, the lighthouse stands on a hill 67 m above the sea and looks down on Mukho Port. The present 24-m tower, rebuilt in 2007, has an observation deck just below the lantern, and its light can be seen up to 48 km out at sea. The plaza in front has a small exhibition on lighthouses and a monument to the 1968 film Miwodo Dasi Hanbeon, which was shot here. Free.
- 9 Nongoldam-gil (논골담길), 2 Nongol 1-gil (starts opposite the fish market at Mukho Port), ☏ +82 33 530-2418. 24 hours daily. Four steep lanes (Deungdaeoreum-gil and Nongol 1-, 2- and 3-gil) climb from the harbor to Mukho Lighthouse through a fishing village where people still live. The walls are covered in murals and short poems about life in the port in its busier days. There is no parking in the lanes, and they are not suitable for wheelchairs. Free.
- 10 Pencil Museum (연필뮤지엄), 183-6 Balhan-ro (5 min walk from Mukho Station), ☏ +82 33 532-1010, [email protected]. 10:00–18:00 (closed Tue Wed). Billed as Korea's first pencil museum. Exhibits show how graphite becomes a pencil, and the collection of more than 3,000 pencils, gathered by the curator in over 100 cities around the world, includes some you can pick up and try. Adults and teenagers ₩7,000, children ₩5,000.
Do
[edit | edit source]- 1 Mureung Valley (무릉계곡). This is a fantastic valley with several hikes of varying difficulties. You can hike to waterfalls, temples or up mountains. Admission to the valley is ₩1,500 for adults. The valley can be reached by taking any of the city buses numbered 12-something (e.g. 12-4.) The bus fare is ₩1,000.
- 2 Mangsang beach (망상 해수욕장), Mangsang-dong, ☏ +82 33 530 2800. Popular beach area 8 km north of the town. Very crowded in the summer, with a very small amusement park area with a batting cage and a few rides.
- 3 Chuam Beach (추암 해수욕장), Bukpyeong-dong, ☏ +82 33 530 2801. Open only July and August. A less popular but more picturesque beach a few km south of town. Free.
- Donghae Cuttlefish Festival (동해오징어축제). Late September, for three days. People can make special memories by partaking in a wide array of events in the summer ocean. Tourists can participate in contests of catching cuttlefish with bare hands, while local fishermen take part in the cuttlefish cleaning and cooking contests.
- 4 Hansom Beach (한섬 해수욕장), Cheongok-dong. Open only July and August. There is a 2.2km sea path, so you can walk while looking at the sea. There is also a photo zone where you can take pictures in the Hanseom Light Tunnel. Free.
- 5 Yuchunji by Mureung (무릉별 유천지), Igi-ro 97 Ie-ro, 2nd parking lot of Yucheonji by Mureung, ☏ +82 507 1448 0101. 10:00~17:30. You can enjoy sightseeing by riding various experience facilities (Sky Glider, Alpine Coaster, etc.) and trains by Mureung. Adults ₩6,000 (June–September), ₩4000 (October–May) Senior citizens, people with disabilities, and national merit ₩4,000 (June–September) and ₩3,000 (October–May) Children and teenagers ₩3000 (June–September) and ₩2000 (October–May) Infant ₩2000 (June–September), ₩1000 (October–May).
- 6 Dojjaebigol Sky Valley (도째비골 스카이밸리), 2-109 Mukhojin-dong (between Mukho Lighthouse and the coast road), ☏ +82 70 7799-6955. Tue–Sun 10:00–18:00 (Apr–Oct), 10:00–17:00 (Nov–Mar); closed Mon (or the following business day when Mon is a public holiday). A recreation area near Mukho Lighthouse with a skywalk, Sky Cycle and Giant Slide. The skywalk has a transparent glass floor overlooking the sea. The Sky Cycle is a bicycle ride along a cable above the valley and is open only to riders at least 140 cm tall. The Giant Slide descends about 27 m down a cylindrical slide. Adults ₩3,000; teenagers and children ₩2,000; free for children aged 6 and under; Giant Slide ₩3,000; Sky Cycle ₩15,000.
- 7 Eodal Beach (어달해변), 217 Ilchul-ro (north of Mukho Port), ☏ +82 33 530-2272. 06:00–22:00; swimming 09:00–18:00. A small beach with a 300-m-long and 20–30-m-wide shoreline. It has fine sand, a gentle slope and shallow water averaging about 1 m deep.
- 8 Haeparang Trail Course 34 (해파랑길 34코스) (starts behind Mukho Station). A 14.5-km section of the Haeparang Trail that takes about 5 hours to walk and is rated easy. Starting near Mukho Station, the route passes Mukho Lighthouse Park, Daejin Port and Mangsang Beach before continuing into Okgye, Gangneung. The route combines coastal paths, fishing villages and a forested valley section. call 1588-7417
Buy
[edit | edit source]- 1 E-MART (이마트). The only big chain retailer in town. They offer everything from food to clothes and electronics (think wal-mart). Apart from them, there are a number of shops in the downtown area offering your usual services. English will be limited however and bargaining is not too common in the retail stores.
- 2 Mukho Port Live Fish Market (묵호항활어판매센터), 68 Ilchul-ro (on the waterfront at Mukho Port), ☏ +82 33 530-2271. Hours vary by stall. Seafood market with around 70 stalls selling live and fresh fish and seafood, including squid, flounder, octopus and snow crab depending on the season. Fish bought here can be prepared as hoe (Korean-style raw fish) and eaten at nearby restaurants for an additional charge.
- 3 Janjanhage (잔잔하게), 215-2 Balhan-ro (3 min walk from Mukho Station, in front of Mukho Post Office), ☏ +82 10 2734-3514. 11:00–18:00 (closed Tue). A travel bookshop in Mukho, a 3-minute walk from Mukho Station. Parking is available nearby, and pets are welcome.
- 4 Mukoya (무코야 선물가게), 24-5 Deungdaeoreum-gil (below the Mukho Lighthouse parking lot, in front of the old lighthouse), ☏ +82 507 1355-4136. 11:00–18:00 (closed Tue Wed). A small souvenir shop near Mukho Lighthouse selling Mukho-themed gifts.
Eat
[edit | edit source]Donghae has limited food options but "Soma" is quite good. there are actually 2 locations located about a block away. They offer Korean food with a slight western twist (like pizza ddockboki and pork cutlet with pepper sauce), worth a try. The fast food options are limited to KFC, Dunkin Donuts and Lotteria (the Korean McDonalds). They have good pizza at Buena Pizza (try the bacon cheeseburger). Moreover, there are of course the ubiquitous galbi and kimbab restaurants. However, those hoping for authentic western food may be disappointed.
- Pizza Hut (There are two locations in Donghae).
- 3 Donghae Bakery (동해 제빵소), 126-1, Hansom-ro, ☏ +82 507 1346 2966. 8:00~22:00. It is one of the famous bakeries in the area.
- 4 Ottogi Restaurant, 10-1, Ilchul-ro, ☏ +82 33-532-3868. Spicy noodle soup and dumpling soup are typical dishes, and visitors can experience what the locals eat.
- 5 Hosan Bakery, 117, Daedong-ro, ☏ +82 033-521-5525. Breads like glutinous rice doughnuts and twisted bread stick are a favorite and relatively inexpensive.
- 6 Cafe Hyunsangso (카페 현상소), 20 Nobongan-gil, Mangsang-dong. It has an antique look with a European vibe and outdoor tables to enjoy the natural scenery. And almost everywhere is a photo spot.
- 7 Dongnam Hoejip (동남회집), 34 Mukho Market-gil, ☏ +82 33 532-8204. 08:30–20:00 daily. A plain local seafood restaurant known for flounder mulhoe (cold raw fish soup) and boneless flounder hoe. It also serves pufferfish soup (bokjiri). Mulhoe ₩12,000; boneless flounder hoe from ₩20,000.
- 8 Mukho Gimbap (묵호김밥), 3 Jungang Market-gil (10 m down the CU alley opposite Balhan-dong Sinhyeop), ☏ +82 507 1366-7806. 10:00–18:00 (closed Wed Sun). A small takeout shop whose gimbap is packed with egg, popular for a cheap lunch or a snack before a train. Also sells fish-cake bars, tteokbokki and fried snacks. Gimbap from ₩4,000.
- 9 Geodong Tangsuyuk (거동탕수육), 83 Ilchul-ro, ☏ +82 33-532-4778. M 10:30–15:00; W–F 10:30–15:00, 16:30–19:00; Sa 10:00–15:00, 17:00–19:30; Su 10:00–15:00, 17:00–19:00; closed Tu. Korean-Chinese restaurant whose tangsuyuk (sweet-and-sour fried pork) has cubes of octopus inside the pork loin, in original or spicy versions. Also serves octopus jjamppong (spicy seafood noodle soup) and jajangmyeon. Waits of an hour or more are common (waiting list via the Catch Table app), last orders are 40 minutes before closing, and there is no parking. Tangsuyuk ₩19,000–30,000; jjamppong ₩11,000; jajangmyeon ₩7,000.
Drink
[edit | edit source]Most of the options here are Hof and Soju bars that are all pretty much the same - they offer beer by the truckload (₩2,500 for 500ml) and soju. Many of them will expect you to order food as well since this is Korean tradition. Just politely say "no thanks" and most will leave you with you beer. Those looking for cocktails have to go to a cocktail bar and these are priced very highly. Your best bet is to head to E-Mart and get a few bottles of cheap booze if you want liquor.
- 1 103LAB (103LAB 카페), 19 Nongol 1-gil (on Nongoldam-gil; no parking, walk up from the public lots), ☏ +82 507 1433-1074. 11:30–17:30 (closed Mon). A small cafe on the mural lanes with window seats looking over the harbor. The owners look after local street cats, so you may share the room with one. Coffee ₩4,700–6,900.
- 2 Baram-ui Eondeok (바람의언덕 동해 타파스 와인), 22-7 Nongol 1-gil (at the top of Nongoldam-gil), ☏ +82 507 1338-9764. Mon Wed 14:00–20:00, Thu–Sat 12:00–20:00, Sun 12:00–19:00 (closed Tue). A wine and tapas bar with a terrace overlooking the sea from the "Hill of Wind" at the top of the mural village. Tapas and pasta ₩17,900–39,900.
Sleep
[edit | edit source].JPG)
- Love Motels. As with everywhere else in South Korea, there are love motels abound and Donghae is no exception. Don't be fooled by the name however, some of them can be seedy, however some can be quite special with huge beds and themed kitsch. Try the hotel 1 "very six". A room with a pool table can be had for ₩90,000. Most rooms go for ₩50,000 a night (more on weekends).
- Jjimjilbang (찜질방). Donghae has a few of these as well. You can sleep in them for ₩6,000 a night (give or take). However it's a communal experience and those looking for privacy won't find it here. For those that are willing to try a more authentic Korean experience, they are clean, safe and really cheap. The one close to the very six hotel is the best in town (near E-MART)
- 2 Beach Camping. You can set up tents in the designated camping area at Mangsang Beach, which is 8km North of Donghae City. Camping is free.
Connect
[edit | edit source]Go next
[edit | edit source]- Take a ferry from Mukho Harbor to the island of Ulleungdo.