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El Cuyo is a small coastal town on the Gulf of Mexico in northern Yucatán. Often described as a fishing village, the town derives most of its income from tourism. It is a barrier island with the Lagoon Ria Lagartos on the inland side of the island. The town is a popular destination for Kitesurfing, Fishing, Birdwatching and other aquatic activities and natural explorations.
El Cuyo is a laid back beach town with a hippie vibe. It has quite a few hotels and restaurants, including some shockingly high quality ones, but there are no corporate hotels or timeshares. The food is mostly authentic Yucatecan regional cuisine with a smattering of upscale restaurants serving more international cuisines. It is a place to unwind, far from traffic or urban crowds.
Understand
[edit]The town has a population of about 1,500 permanent residents as of 2022.
Summer is generally referred to as the "rainy season", but the rains are not continuous. Frequently, you'll get a brief shower in the morning, then the skies will clear and you'll have a sunny but humid afternoon. Hurricanes are a possibility from late June to late October. Summer is also when seaweed (sargassum) sometimes washes up on beaches.
History
[edit]The town began life as an agricultural hacienda called Cuyo de Ancona, founded in 1895. Ramón Ancona Bolio established the hacienda to harvest chicle (used to make chewing gum) and other agricultural products.
Get in
[edit]
The closest large airports with commercial service are Cancún International Airport and the international airport in Merida. From either airport you can rent a car or take a bus. El Cuyo is just under 3 hours by car from Cancun, Playa del Carmen, or Tulum. It is about 4 hours by car from Merida.
By bus
[edit]From Merida, take a Mayab or Noreste bus to Tizimin. From Cancun, take either a Mayab or Noreste bus to Colonia Yucatan.
From Tizimin, Autobuses Noreste Yucatán operates 5 buses per day (roughly every 3 hours) to El Cuyo. The buses stop in Colonia Yucatan. Noreste operates as a second-class line but their buses are modern and comfortable with air conditioning.
There are also combis (shared shuttle vans). Tickets for the 45-minute trip cost M$70. Combis to El Cuyo have a schedule, but they depart only if there are 9 or more passengers so combi service can often be late. The combi service is faster when it goes on time but the Noreste buses are more comfortable, have more space for baggage under the bus, and are more dependable.
When returning to Merida or Cancun, take the El Cuyo Shuttle (combi service) to Tizimin then catch an ADO or Mayab bus to your final destination.
- 1 El Cuyo Shuttle, C. 21 entre 26, ☏ +52 984 187 8966. 09:00 - 21:00. Combi service from El Cuyo to Tizimin or Col. Yucatan.
Get around
[edit]It's a small town so walking is best, or ride a bike. Several places around town rent bikes, including some of the hostals and guest houses, or try Casita Verde on Av. Veraniega or Bike Center on Calle 21. Boats are the best way to explore the lagoon and see the wildlife.
See
[edit]- Ocean views with fantastic sunrises and sunsets are best on the town's pier: Muelle Turistica 2 . There are also photogenic sunsets and sunrises over the lagoon.
- Beaches miles of soft, white, coral sand beaches stretch along the Gulf of Mexico coastline in both directions. The waters are shallow close to shore and most people can wade 100 meters or more before the water gets uncomfortably deep. Popular beaches include:
- Playa Cocal - west of the harbor entrance
- Playa El Cuyo - east of the harbor entrance
- 1 K'íiwik Cuyo (Town Plaza). Quiet park with paved walkways, concrete benches, and food vendors (especially in the evenings).
- 2 Faro El Cuyo (El Cuyo Lighthouse). The view from the top of the lighthouse affords sweeping vistas of the ocean, the jungles, and the town itself. The lighthouse is generally closed and locked up tighter than the proverbial drum, but if you stop at the nearby Capitaneria office, you can ask to go up and they will generally lend you the key.
Do
[edit]- Snorkeling - the waters are clear and shallow. Inquire at tour companies in town if you want to explore deeper waters, or if you'd like to go out the coral reefs or a nearby shipwreck.
Kitesurfing
[edit]Kitesurfing (also called kiteboarding) is very popular in El Cuyo. Pristine, uncrowded beaches and a tropical climate with dependable ocean breezes makes it an excellent place to learn the sport or show off your mastery. There are several kite shops in town where you can buy or rent equipment and several kite schools where you can get beginner lessons or pick up some more advanced techniques.
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- 1 Ik Nah Kite School, Zona Veraniega, ☏ +52 986 123 2465. Daily 08:00 - 18:00. Small beachfront kitesurfing school with attentive, knowledgeable, patient instructors.
- 2 El Cuyo Kite School, Calle 33, ☏ +52 986 104 2898. Daily 10:00 - 18:00.
- 3 Elements Kite School, La Veraniega, ☏ +52 984 157 6987. Daily 09:00 - 19:00. Kitesurfing rentals and lessons starting at M$1000 per hour. Offers a 6-day kite camp. Also offers sunrise paddleboard tours, yoga on the beach, and tours to nearby sites such as Las Coloradas or flamingo watching trips to Ria Lagartos.
- 4 Tropikal Kitesurf, Av. Veraniega, ☏ +52 984 133 7532. Learn the sport of kitsurfing and wingfoiling with bilingual English-Spanish instructors who are passionate about what they do. Equipment rentals available.
- 5 Pura Vida Kitesurfing, C 37 S/N, entre 34 Y 34 A, ☏ +52 986 106 0458. Daily 07:00 - 22:00. Basic 3-day kiteboarding class as well as private instruction catered to the student. Also provides tour services, kayak rentals.
Fishing
[edit]
There are several boats whose owners can be hired for an off-shore fishing expedition or for fishing in the calmer waters of the lagoon. These boats can also be hired for nature tours including trips to see the famous flamingos of the Ria Lagartos Biosphere Reserve.
- 6 Chak Kin, Calle 26, ☏ +52 986 120 1773. Daily 06:30 - 22:00. Nature tours through the Ria Lagartos Biosphere Reserve as well as cultural sites like the Mayan Mud Baths. Boats are available for half-day and full-day fishing excursions.
- 7 El Martin Pescador, ☏ +52 986 112 6448. Daily 09:00 - 21:00. Nature tours to the flamingo nesting areas, seashell island, Mayan Mud baths and more. Knowledgeable guide provides deep insight into the culture and natural environment. Daily fishing charters available.
- 8 The Fisherman, Calle 41, entre 34 Y 36, Centro, ☏ +52 985 852 4589. Daily 07:00 - 22:00. Nature tours in the Laguna Lagartos and fishing trips in the lagoon or the Gulf of Mexico.
Kayaking
[edit]A quiet paddle is a great way to glide along the lagoon to spot the wildlife. An early morning sunrise paddle might end up being accompanied by curious dolphins.
- 9 Kayaking El Cuyo, ☏ +52 984 106 5183. Sea kayaks for the Gulf side of town, sit-on kayaks for the Lagoon side. They also rent paddleboards and beach umbrellas.
Nature tours
[edit]- 10 UMA San Miguel, Carr. El Cuyo (mainland side of the El Cuyo bridge), ☏ +52 986 100 1687. Nature preserve with coastal wetlands and mangrove swamps. Kayak trips into the swamps including sunrise and sunset trips. Offers a Jeep tour through the jungle for those less inclined toward physical activity as well as a 5-hour birdwatching expedition. Hiking trails are also available. The swamps are home to flamingoes and pelicans as well as more than 200 other species of bird. As you paddle through the swamps, you will likely see crocodiles floating just below the surface and monkeys swinging from the trees. If you are really lucky, you'll catch a glimpse of a jaguar or one of the smaller feline predators who inhabit the jungle.
Spa
[edit]- 11 Copal Spa, Av. Veraniegas, ☏ +52 986 100 6371. Th-Tu 11:00 - 17:00, closed W. Holistic wellness center offering relaxation and rejuvenation services with massages on the beach.
- 12 Lamat Yam, Calle 33, ☏ +52 984 235 9488. Daily 07:00 - 19:00. Massages, bioenergetics and yoga.
Buy
[edit]There is no town marketplace and no large stores or souvenir shops. Most people buy staples at the MiniMarket El Farito, which is a small convenience store that stocks grocery items, bug spray, beer and soft drinks. The only other place that could be considered a store is Paleteria de Cuyo which stocks ice cream and has several tables where they serve breakfast, drinks, and light snacks. Locals swear by their waffles. Other than that, you could buy fresh fish near the harbor or muelle, or you could buy windsurfing equipment. If you want something else, you should probably go to Cancun, Valladolid or Merida where you can find a wider range of shopping opportunities.
Eat
[edit]Informal palapa restaurants line the beach and many of the streets in town. Fresh seafood is on the menu everywhere, and you'll find burgers and pizza available here and there.
El Cuyo is well-known in the Yucatan Peninsula as a magnet for high-end dining. Such a concept seems strange in a quiet beach community, but foodies swear the food is twice as good as the meals served at high-dollar restaurants in Cancun, but at half the price.
- 1 La Negrita, Calle 23 A-No. 184, entre 26, ☏ +52 986 106 3272. Daily 09:00 - 17:00. Casual open-air restaurant specializing in seafood and Yucatecan regional food. The house specialty is anything with mojo de ajo. Fresh ceviche is a winner too. M$150.
- 2 Gaby Pizza, Calle 21, ☏ +52 986 118 0335. Authentic italian-style pizzas in a small, cozy pizzeria owned by an italian guy. Good variety of pizzas including a vegetarian option. Extra toppings cost M$50. M$150.
- 3 La Conchita, Calle 37 x 40 y 42, ☏ +52 986 120 3431. M-F 09:00 - 20:00, Sa-Su 08:00 - 18:00. Friendly casual seafood restaurant. Ceviche or anything shrimp or octopus is recommended. Generous portions for the price. M$150.
- 4 Casa Mangle, Calle 19 Numero 169, Veraniega, ☏ +52 984 323 0743. Daily 08:00 - 21:30. Yucatecan restaurant with super chill laid-back vibe. Grab a table on the open patio or under the trees in the garden where you can kick off your shoes and dig your toes into the sand. The specialties are mostly seafood, but they serve classic sopa de Lima, cochinita pibil and other Yucatecan specialties. Big cocktails. M$200.
- 5 El Bucanero, Calle 21. Tu-Su 18:00 - 22:30, closed M. Casual hamburger joint with a nautical theme and some unusual toppings, like squid, lobster or octopus. . M$100.
- 6 Naia Cafe y Restaurante, Av. Veraniega, ☏ +52 986 111 0300. Daily 08:00 - 15:00. Healthy choice breakfasts with plenty of vegan choices. The Buddhist Bowl is a generous, tasty start to the day. Coconut milk smoothies with coconut milk fresh out of the coconut. Good coffee drinks as well. M$200.
- 7 , C. 36 entre 37 Y 39A, ☏ +52 986 217 2593. Daily 09:00 - 17:00. Casual seafood restaurant with zesty shrimp tacos and cold beer. M$250.
Splurge
[edit]- 8 Mowgli, Calle 24, ☏ +52 985 147 2769. Daily 06:30 - 23:00. Fresh seafood and fresh produce is the focus of this Yucatecan regional restaurant. The grilled octopus is a winner. Mowgli is the most expensive restaurant in town, but also the best if you crave innovative, flavorful dishes prepared by a Michelin-star chef.. M$800.
- 9 El Chile Gordo, Calle Laguna 220, ☏ +52 999 169 9714. Th-Sa 19:00 - 21:00, closed Su-W. Upscale restaurant with nouveau Mexican cuisine focusing on Yucatecan flavors and fresh ingredients, including lobster, octopus and snapper. Offers a gourmet 9-course dinner that is a bargain at M$1000 (about US$50). Reservations are a must.
- 10 Zapote, Calle 32A, ☏ +52 984 240 3746. Tu-Su 17:00 - 22:00, closed M. Upscale restaurant with a contemporary dining room serving nouveau Mexican cuisine with an emphasis on grilled meats and seafood. Creative cocktails including several artesanal mezcals. M$500.
Drink
[edit]Every restaurant in El Cuyo serves alcoholic beverages. Cold beer and margaritas are everywhere. There are a couple of niche places that color outside the lines:
- 1 Off the Vine, Av. Veraniega, ☏ +52 984 367 9385. Th-Tu 12:00 - 23:00, closed W. Wine bar with gourmet finger foods and light entrees. Part of a regional chain with locations in Playa del Carmen and Cancun.
- 2 Anahata Café & Bistro, Av. Veraniega y Calle 17, ☏ +52 984 323 0743. Daily 07:30 - 13:00. Coffee shop serving espresso and flavored hot and cold coffee drinks as well as breakfast and lunch. Best shot of Java in town. M$200.
- 3 El Havanero, 40 SN-x39 (near the pier), ☏ +52 984 209 8557. Daily 17:00 - 00:00. Large cocktails with light food (the Cubana sandwich is recommended, as are the passion fruit margaritas). M$100.
Sleep
[edit]
Don't expect big hotels or all-inclusive resorts here because there aren't any. Small guest houses with a handful of rooms are the norm (and there are a lot of them).
- 1 LunArena Barefoot Hotel & Kite School, Av Veraniega, ☏ +52 984 452 1105. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Small 12-room hotel with some rooms offering views of jungle or of beach. Breakfast available. Beach chairs and bicycles available for guest use. 50 meter walk to beach. M$1400.
- 2 Casa Mate, Av. Veraniega 94, ☏ +52 999 221 7853. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Rustic jungle beach hotel with cabins with thatched roofs, but fortunately modern conveniences like flush toilets and electricity. M$3000.
- 3 Casa Cielo, Calle 15 lote 190 entre calles 12 y 14, ☏ +52 986 111 6936. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 11:00. Upscale boutique hotel with well-manicured grounds, and clean, well maintained, spacious rooms. On-site restaurant serves a full breakfast each morning. Outdoor deck with ocean views. M$4000.
- 4 Ca' Nikte El Cuyo (next to the baseball field), ☏ +52 999 993 7505. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 11:00. Jungle beach house with separate cabanas. Cabanas are well furnished with comfortable beds, fridge, fan, and hammocks. Friendly hosts. M$1500 (Mar 2025).
- 5 Hotel Maria Bonita (next to the baseball field), ☏ +52 984 157 4638. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 11:00. Casual, pet friendly hotel with spacious, clean, well-maintained rooms that have air conditioning and fully equipped kitchens. M$1000 (Mar 2025).
- 6 Nikau Hotel, Av. Veraniega, ☏ +52 984 131 0183. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Modern luxury boutique hotel with an adults-only policy. Comfortable, spacious rooms. Outdoor swimming pool with cocktail bar. On-site restaurant serves international and regional Mexican cuisine. M$2100.
- 7 Mexhe Hotel, Calle 26, ☏ +52 984 253 5195. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Small modern hotel with apartment suites that include kitchen, living room, and balcony with ocean and jungle views. Rooms are well equipped with satellite TV, WiFi and kitchen utensils if you want to prepare meals in your unit. On-site swimming pool available. One and a half block walk to beach. M$1200.
- 8 Can Cocal, Av. Veraniega KM 1.4, ☏ +52 986 122 3242. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 11:00. Upscale boutique hotel with modern amenities, spotlessly clean rooms and friendly service. Rooms include air conditioning, WiFi and cable TV. On-site swimming pool with lounge chairs and an area with a firepit for nighttime activities. On-site restaurant serves modern regional Yucatecan cuisine with an emphasis on fresh seafood. M$2600.
- 9 Downwind Deck Kiteboarding Hotel, Calle 19 116, [email protected]. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. American owned hotel catering to kiteboarders. Modern, clean, spacious rooms with air conditioning, close to the beach. Kiteboarding shop on premises. Friendly house dog. M$2000.
- 10 La Casa del Ritmo, Calle 17, ☏ +52 984 106 5183. Check-in: 16:00, check-out: 11:00. Relaxing beach house with laid-back vibe. Rooms are decorated in bright colors and have air conditioning, WiFi and double beds. Outdoor garden has hammocks available under the shade of towering palms. 2 minute walk to beach.
- 11 Cabañas El Cuyo, El Cuyo, ☏ +52 998 214 4860. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Rustic cabins about 50 meters from the beach. Platform beds, fans, WiFi available (hit or miss). M$900.
- 12 Cucu Hotel, Av. Veraniega, ☏ +52 984 138 1440. Check-in: 15:, check-out: 12:00. Upscale boutique hotel with large suites, with balconies, good quality toiletries, air conditioning, and WiFi. On-site swimming pool with outdoor bar and plentiful deck chairs. Has a kite school on premises. M$2700.
Camping
[edit]- 13 Camping del Ritmo, Calle 19, ☏ +52 984 106 5183. Friendly, very well maintained camping area that provides tents and hammocks. Clean showers with hot water. Rents bicycles, paddleboards and kayaks.
Connect
[edit]Cell coverage exists in El Cuyo, but as of early 2025, it's a bit spotty and it's 3G when you get it. If you're doing a lot of online work, WiFi connections at hotels or coffee shops might offer a faster connection.
Go next
[edit]- Rio Lagartos - see the flocks of pink flamingos in the Ria Lagartos Biosphere Reserve or the famous pink lagoons of Las Colorados
- Isla Holbox - laid back island without cars (but with too many golf carts), an escape from the crowds of Cancun
- Valladolid - quaint colonial town with connections to the Maya Train
- Sisal - small town with a history of growing henequin and cane sugar, one of Mexico's Pueblos Mágicos