Ferrol is a port in Galicia in northwest Spain, with a population of 64,000 in 2024. It's Spain's Atlantic navy base and ship-building centre, so it's industrial but with a long heritage. It's also the start of one of the shorter branches of El Camino, the pilgrimage trail to Santiago de Compostela.
Understand
[edit]Tectonic activity caused the northwest corner of Spain to sink, while sea levels rose. This caused its river plains to flood into broad deep rías or natural harbours, and the ría of Ferrol is pinched at its outlet, so it can be guarded by placing cannon on either bank, or even just a boom across. All these harbours were important for Atlantic shipping, and in the modern era larger ships and complex harbour equipment caused them to specialise. So today Vigo is the main fishing port and A Coruña has the bulk of general freight, while Ferrol is the navy port and ship-building centre.
Distinguished Galician families involved in the navy and in ship-building included the maternal and paternal ancestors of General Franco (1892–1975). He was born and grew up in Ferrol and began a navy career, but the war of 1898 took away Spain's American colonies and much of the role of its navy, so he switched to the army and moved to Toledo. Throughout his long dictatorship, he promoted the commercial interests of Ferrol.
As a religious conservative, Franco was also behind the 20th century revival of the pilgrimage trade. The principal route came from France, with feeder routes converging on Santiago from all points. One historic route from Britain and Ireland was to sail to Ferrol then trek south, El Camino Inglés, so this too was revived. Once trains, planes and automobiles were commonplace it raised the question of how much trekking you had to do to qualify as a pilgrim. The religious authorities decided on 100 km, and this worked out neatly for Ferrol which is a 110 km hike from Santiago.
Tourist information: the office on Paseo Marina at the start of the Camino is geared up for pilgrims - get your pilgrim passport stamped here. It's open Su-Th 09:00-14:00, F Sa 09:00-14:00, 16:30-18:30.
The other is on Praza de España, 100 m south of the bus and railway stations, same hours.
Get in
[edit]
A Coruña (LCG IATA) is the nearest airport, with daily flights from Madrid and Barcelona, but few internationally.
Santiago de Compostela (SCQ IATA has much more international tourism and so has flights from across Europe and the UK.
Five mainline trains per day from A Coruña take 1 hr 20 min via Betanzos. One of these is direct from Madrid-Chamartin, taking 5 hr 30 min via Segovia, Zamora, Ourense and Santiago.
Feve narrow-gauge trains run every hour or two from Ortigueira.
1 Ferrol railway station is the terminus for both railways. Not much here.
Arriva buses from A Coruña are every 30 min and take just over an hour.
One bus runs the length of the country from Algeciras (for Morocco ferries) via Tarifa, Cadiz, Jerez, Seville, Caceres, Plasencia, Salamanca, Zamora, Astorga and A Coruña to Ferrol.
The bus station is next to the railway station, east side. It's empty, with a ticket kiosk but no other facilities.
Cruise ships often call at Ferrol, bussing their passengers to Santiago, but there are no ferry services.
Get around
[edit]Walk, the city sights are within a small area.
AlsaFerrol runs the local buses. In 2025 the flat fare is €1.55.
See
[edit]
- 1 Start of Camino Inglés is marked by a metal scallop plaque on Paseo da Mariña. The Tourist Office is adjacent.
- Muelle de Curuxeiras is a stubby pier across the street from the Camino start point with a good view of the marina.
- 2 Parque Reina Sofia is open 24 hours daily.
- Iglesia San Francisco, Plaza Juan Sebastián Elcano (50 m west of Parador), ☏ +34 68 660 4361. M–F 09:15–13:30, 19:00–20:30, Sa 19:00–20:30, Su 11:00–13:30, 19:00–20:30. Neoclassical church built 1757 over a medieval Franciscan monastery, this is now the parish church of the navy. Free.
- 3 Plaza de Amboage or Praza de Amboaxe is dominated by the statue of that Marquis, Ramón Pla y Monge (1823–1892). He was a philanthropist multimillionaire businessman and politician.
- 4 Concatedral de San Xiao (Co-Cathedral of St Julian), Rúa Igrexa104, ☏ +34 98 135 4725. M–Sa 10:30–13:00, 17:30–19:00, Su 10:30–13:00. Built from 1765 in neoclassical / mannerist style, it shares its status with the co-cathedral of Mondoñedo in Lugo.
- Plaza de la Constitución is small, but fronts onto Alameda de Suanzes park north side of the Naval Museum.
- 5 , Rúa dos Irmandiños, ☏ +34 98 135 9682. Jun–Sep M–Sa 10:00–19:00, Su 10:00–14:30, Oct–May Tu–F 10:00–14:30, 15:30–19:00, Sa 10:00–19:00, Su 10:30–14:30. Presenting 1000 years of ship-building in Ferrol, in the navy arsenal built 1781. Limited signage in English. Adult €2, conc €1, child free.
Concatedral de San Xiao - Las Meninas are murals painted in the Canido district 500 m back from the waterfront, with several artists doing their own take on Velázquez' famous painting of 1656, now in the Prado in Madrid. You'll have to hunt around.
- Centro-Torrente-Ballester is an exhibition and performance space in a former hospital on Rúa Concepción Arenal.
- 6 Concello de Ferrol is the elegant City Hall on Plaza Armas. Yes of course they're worth it.
- 7 Museo de Historia Natural, Plaza Canido, ☏ +34 69 814 1384. Tu-Sa 10:00-13:30, 17:00-20:30, Su 10:30-14:00. Trad natural history museum. Signage is in Galician. Free.
Further out
[edit]- 8 Castillo de San Felipe, ☏ +34 98 194 4272. Daily 10:00-18:00. Fortress and artillery position, one of a series commanding the sea approach to Ferrol. It was built in 1557 and rebuilt from 1731, but was overlooked by higher ground and vulnerable to land attack. Free.
- 9 Monastery of San Martiño de Xuvia is 12th century, over much earlier foundations. It's on the Camino, open daily 11:00–13:00.
- 10 Pontedeume is a fishing village 18 km south of Ferrol with a well-preserved old centre.
Do
[edit]_1.JPG)
- Cinema: Duplex is 200 m east of the Naval Museum.
- Theatre: Teatro Jofre is on Praza de Galicia next to the cathedral.
- Auditorio de Ferrol is a large events venue on Av do Mar just east of the centre.
- Football: Racing Club de Ferrol play soccer in Segunda División, the second tier. Their home ground is Estadio Municipal da Malata (capacity 11,700) 1 km north of city centre.
- Golf: Club de Campo is 3 km north of city centre. Campomar[dead link] is in Vilacornelle 15 km north.
- Camino Inglés is the branch of the Camino de Santiago popular with English and other northern pilgrims. From Ferrol it's only 110 km to Santiago, 100 km is the minimum to get a pilgrimage certificate, far less gruelling than the tramp from France, which was often closed by war in earlier centuries. The route is via Narón, Xubia, Fene, Pereiro, Pontedeume, Miño, Betanzos, Presedo, O Mesón do Vento (where the trail joins from A Coruña), Cruz, Ordes and Sigüeiro into Santiago.
Buy
[edit]- Mercado de la Magdalena is a large indoor market hall 100 m west of the cathedral on Rúa Igrexa, open M–Sa 08:00–16:00.
- Supermarkets are along the spine road of the centre: Estrada de Castela.
Eat
[edit].jpg)
Budget
[edit]- 1 Pizzería Sole Mío, Rua Sol 54, ☏ +34 98 130 0033. Daily 12:00-00:00. Friendly pizzeria with thin-crust pizzas, pasta and salads.
- 2 Cafetería Cafeto, Rúa Galiano 47, ☏ +34 88 125 6803. M-F 08:30-14:00, 16:30-21:30, Sa 21:00-14:00. Simple café for sandwiches and light meals.
- 3 Bocatería Algo Así, Av Esteiro 34, ☏ +34 98 193 3440. Tu-F 12:00-15:45, 20:00-23:30, Sa Su 20:00-23:30. Bocadillos filled with cured meats, cheese, and grilled veg. Eat in or takeaway.
- Golden, Av Esteiro 18 (50 m west of Bocatería Algo Así), ☏ +34 98 135 9187. M-Th 07:30-23:00, F Sa 08:00-01:30. Friendly modern café for light bites.
- 4 Scooby Burger de Ferrol, Rúa Alcalde Usero 67, ☏ +34 88 195 4384. M 11:00-16:00, W-Su 11:00-16:00, 20:00-00:00. Diner-style burger joint with a good menu selection.
- 5 Pizza Móvil, Rúa Santa Comba 15, ☏ +34 98 133 3088. M-Th 13:00-16:00, F-Su 13:00-00:00. Family-friendly chain pizzeria with the usual range.
- 6 La Martina, Rúa Uruguai 16, ☏ +34 88 193 7693. M-Th 07:00-22:00, F 07:00-01:00, Sa 08:00-13:00. Modern restaurant with a diverse menu.
- La Hamburguesería de Ultramar, Rúa Venezuela 45 (100 m north of La Martina), ☏ +34 98 194 9341. Th-M 12:30-15:00, 20:30-23:00. Urban-industrial style burgers, eat in or takeaway.
- Bocateria Tía María, Rúa Nova de Caranza 92 (100 m west of La Martina), ☏ +34 98 194 8576. F-W 12:00-16:00, 19:30-23:00. Trad bocadillos, eat in or takeaway.
Mid-range
[edit]- 7 Bodegón Bacoriño, San Francisco 28, ☏ +34 64 772 3970. M, Th-Sa 12:30-15:00, 19:30-22:30, Su & Tu 12:30-15:00. Cosy trad tavern with tapas, grilled meats and seafood.
- 8 Restaurante Nautic, Rúa Igrexa 32, ☏ +34 98 135 3986. Tu-Sa 12:00-16:30, 20:00-00:00, Su 12:00-17:00. Fresh seafood and Med cuisine, with a modern and bright interior.
- 9 El Caserío Vasco, Rúa Pardo Baixo 11, ☏ +34 98 135 1189. M-F 13:00-23:00, Sa 12:00-00:00, Su 13:00-16:00, 20:00-00:00. Basque restaurant serving hearty dishes like grilled meats, stews, and pintxos in a casual, homey atmosphere.
- O Pincho, C de María 95 (100 m west of city hall), ☏ +34 88 102 1037. M 13:00-17:00, W-Su 13:00-01:00. Casual eatery offering a range of seafood and grilled meats, with trad Galician flavors.
Drink
[edit]
Many serve food and are mentioned above. Others downtown include La Consignataria, Lowe, Bar Yggdrasil, Papillon microbrewery, El Canario and Adega de Estrela.
Sleep
[edit]- 1 Albergue de peregrinos de Ferrol, Estrada Alta 25. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 08:00. Opened in 2023, this is clean but spartan. Pilgrim passport required, no advance reservations. Sheet and blanket included but no utensils. Two dorms and a room for two. €10 ppn.
- 2 Hotel Parador de Ferrol, Praza do Contralmirante Azarola Gresillón, ☏ +34 98 135 6720. Charming old place. B&B double €110.
- 3 Hotel Alda El Suizo, Dolores 67, ☏ +34 88 109 0208. Friendly clean hotel behind the co-cathedral. B&B double €100.
- Hostal El Cairo at Dolores 32 is basic but clean.
- 4 Hotel Almirante, C de María 2, ☏ +34 98 133 3073. Comfy and central. B&B double €90.
Go next
[edit]- Betzanos on the road to A Coruña has the monastery church of San Francisco.
- A Coruña is a historic harbour, often assaulted by France and Britain.
- Santiago de Compostela is a magnificent cathedral city, you don't have to be a pilgrim.
- Fisterra or Finisterre is Spain's rugged "Land's End".