French Way Voyage Tips and guide

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The French Way or Camino Francés, also colloquially called the French Camino is the most popular of the pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, known collectively as the Way of St. James. Each year, at least half of the pilgrims that finish walking the Camino at Santiago de Compostela walk along the French Way, 50 percent of which start from the final 100 km at Sarria and another 15 percent from the official start of the route at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France, which gives the path its name, 779 km away.

While there are many stopping points along each route, none are mandatory; the ultimate goal is to walk to Santiago de Compostela while resting as needed. The stopping points listed will vary for each peregrino, just as each peregrino's experience will be different. The route listings are by no means complete, but are an attempt to share information about the possibilities.

One may start at any point along the route; to get a compostela certificate, one must walk at least 100 km or bike at least 200 km, regardless of how long it takes to cover the distance.

This itinerary follows the Way of St. James from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, near the French-Spanish border, to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, northwestern Spain—the final destination of many pilgrimage routes. Several longer routes originate in France and merge at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port or Puente La Reina; see Routes to Santiago de Compostela from France for details. Other major pilgrimage routes to Santiago include the Northern Way, which runs closer to the coast, and the Portuguese Way, which approaches from the south.

Tradition has it that the remains of the apostle Saint James are buried in the cathedral, after his body was taken to Galicia by boat from Jerusalem and carried inland to where Santiago de Compostela is now located. The pilgrimage is believed by some to be one of three pilgrimages for which the sins of the pilgrim will be forgiven.

While it has for long been popular for the religious pilgrims for being one of the few accessible routes from the rest of continental Europe, its popularity has been amplified by its depiction in many forms of entertainment, such as The Way (2010) starting Martin Sheen and Paulo Coelho's The Pilgrimage (1987), enticing many non-religious to also take the walk.

The number of hikers generally fluctuate between the year, most popular being from April to October when the weather is warm and comfortable enough for a walk. During a designated Jacobean Holy Year, you will need a little more effort or time ahead to search for accommodation, especially if you are expected to arrive in Santiago de Compostela around July 25th, the feast day of Saint James.

The section between Sarria and Santiago is by far the most crowded of all Caminos de Santiago. If you want to have it less crowded, hike in February (9⁰C/3⁰C), March (13⁰C/4⁰C), April (15⁰C/6⁰C), October (18⁰C/9⁰C) or November (13⁰C/6⁰C). (daytime/night and morning).

In 2024, a record number of more than 230,000 people were registered at the pilgrim's office in Santiago de Compostela as completing their journey through the French Way, half of whom walked just the last 100 km.

For general information on the pilgrimage, see Way of St. James.

To earn the compostela (certificate of accomplishment), one needs to walk at least the last 100 km or cycle at least the last 200 km of the route. For walking the French Way, that means in practical terms starting in the small city of Sarria, as it has connections by bus and rail from other places in Spain.

This walk from the French border to Santiago de Compostela on the main routes of the French Way takes about a month. Speed-hikers can make it in as little as two weeks (about the time bicyclists usually require), but that requires walking 40 km or more each day.

While most of the route is fairly gentle with only a few long ascents, some days can be challenging. Over the past twenty years a great deal of effort has gone into improving the trail, and most of the route is now well waymarked, reasonably well surfaced, and separated from the increasingly heavy traffic on Spanish roads. If one begins in France, the route passes over two major mountain chains and several smaller ones. There is a joke that the Camino never meets a mountain it doesn't cross. While that is not really true, there are many ascents and descents, and some of the latter can be quite steep.

You have to be in reasonably good condition and to have good hiking shoes (trail runners). If you wish to camp, you need to carry clothing and a sleeping bag in a comfortable backpack. Most pilgrims stay in hostels (called albergues or refugios) at little cost; many of these require credentials, the pilgrim's passport, which you should get at the start of your journey. Unless you plan to camp in the most crowded months of the summer season, it is unnecessary to carry camping and cooking gear. "Wild camping" is illegal in most parts of Spain, and very few official campsites are to be found along the route. See also Way of St. James#Sleep.

As all of the journey involves walking or cycling to a very good distance while staying in rudimentary hostels, most pilgrims would usually travel in backpacker style. Have a couple of snacks (or protein bars) and plenty of water with you. Don’t bring too many clothes (you can wash and dry them overnight at most lodgings) but add a layer when the weather gets cool. A camera is highly recommended to capture some fascinating spots along the way or even memories with a fellow pilgrim you just met, but leave your laptop or tablet at home to avoid distractions and unnecessary weight.

The official route begins at St. Jean-Pied-de-Port in France, accessible by train from Bayonne. Bayonne has a TGV service from Paris' Gare Montparnasse and an overnight train from Gare Austerlitz. If flying onto Biarritz, you can take the bus to Bayonne train station or use a shuttle service by Express Bourricot. If coming from Spain, there's a bus service from Pamplona to Biarritz and Bayonne by alsa in spring through early fall.

Most towns in Spain along the way are easily accessible by train or bus from major cities such as Madrid and Barcelona. Roncesvalles, steeped in history and the site of the defeat and death of Charlemagne's lieutenant Roland, is a usual starting-point for Spaniards. The routes from Somport, Jaca and Barcelona also join the French Way at Puente la Reina.

St. Jean Pied-de-Port is also the end of the main pilgrimage routes from France. See Routes to Santiago de Compostela from France for some information on these routes.

Once on the Camino, the pedestrian pilgrim has three duties: to sleep, to eat, and to walk. Those duties are made less onerous by paying attention to the quality of the path, a large number of bars, restaurants, and cafés, and the albergues.

If you choose to cycle, you can rent a bike. And anytime you want to get back on track, follow the blue and yellow scallop-shell signs, or the yellow arrows painted on tree-trunks, fenceposts, or walls.

It is possible to walk the Camino using a number of different travel companies that handle all the logistical arrangements (including organising your luggage transfer for you), leaving you free to enjoy the Camino in style.

42°22′8″N 5°4′5″W

Map of French Way

The routes here are divided into sections between the largest cities along the way. Markers indicate major stop points with multiple accommodation options and substantial facilities. Intermediate villages between these stops with at least a place of stay are bolded.

Along the way, the paths are marked by a yellow shell on a blue background, with numbers in descending order indicating the walking distance to Santiago de Compostela. In the above map, the route is indicated red, also with the yellow shell on a blue background, under the "Hiking" layer.

The official start of the French Camino is at 43.164167-1.2366671 Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France, hence there are multiple options for hostels (gite), restaurants, and shops for hiking supplies. There is a pilgrim's office where you can obtain your credencial, a sheet of paper in which you can put a stamp in the brackets to indicate the places you stopped by every day along the way. The officer will also give an up-to-date list of accommodations along the route, and a map for travel through the Pyrenees.

There are two routes you can take through the Pyrenees, both approximately 24 km long.

The most popular route is the Napoleon Pass with a strenuous through-climb from 300 m to 1400 m in 15 km, usually finished in 4 to 5 hours before a descent that takes 1 to 2 hours. Pilgrims who wish to break down the hike into two days can stay in Orisson, 8 km up, where there is a refuge as well as the auberge Borda, the only two accommodation options in the mountains. At its highest point, halfway through the hike, you will see a vast meadow with farm animals such as horses and sheeps roaming out of their farm looking for pasture. You will also see a statue of the Virgin Mary ahead, where you will then take the road on the right.

After 3 km, when seeing the Cross of Thibault, take the route on the right on the grass. As you enter an area with taller trees and a water spring, you will be entering Spain and start a sharp descent towards 43.0085-1.31862 Roncesvalles, where most pilgrims will stay for the night.

From November to March or inclement weather, when the Napoleon Route is impassable, an alternative route, the Valcarlos Pass is the alternative route, with lower elevation and passes through Valcarlos. This goes from the right fork from the junction to Napoleon Pass, also just out of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.

Roncesvalles is the most popular starting point for Spanish pilgrims. There is a municipal hostel (albergue) in a former monastery, which can house close to 200 pilgrims. In peak season however, pilgrims would spill over to the next villages of Auritz-Burguete and Espinal.

From here, the route alternates between forests and highway, meandering through the two aforementioned villages. Just before reaching the next village, Bizkarreta-Gerendiain, the trail is cut by a small stream flooding its surface, with a path of high structures accessible from the path shoulder if you do not want to get your footwear wet.

From the last village, the way cuts through the forest again, with a slight gain in elevation, until it crosses the highway again at Alto de Erro. From here, the descent is steep with loose rocks and jagged humps. Caution is necessary when traversing this section, even with a hiking stick. Fortunately, the road evens out at 42.930278-1.5044443 Zubiri , a major stop with multiple accommodation options, including a municipal albergue. You would have already walked 22 km from Roncesvalles.

The trail continues on the left side of the valley, at first through a magnesium processing plant, and then a couple villages. A couple accommodation alternatives can be found in Urdaitz or Larrasoaña, which would require you to walk a bit off the trail in the direction of the highway.

The trail now goes alongside the river Arga, before crossing the highway again to the other side of the valley at Zabaldika. If the albergue is open and a volunteer is standing by, you can climb up its church tower and ring the bell. The trail then ascents on a foothill with stairs. You will then be at Pampl and the river Ulzama into Villava, slowly but surely leading to 42.816667-1.654 Pamplona. Although unlikely, in case you don't get a place, there is also an albergue operated by the Military Order of Malta in the following town, Cizur Menor

Many pilgrims would plan to rest the following day, using the opportunity to do a light walk while exploring the town. Naturally you can stay for only one night and do a stroll before bedtime. Or if you are trying to escape from cityscapes, you can always skip it.

The way out of Pamplona is long, passing the lands of Pamplona fort and University of Navarra. But you will get back to farms and small villages after about a 5-km walk. After Zariquiegui, you will gently ascend a hill, with a row of wind turbines that can be noisy at times if the wind is really blowing up there.

At the peak of the hill, you will see the 42.7357-1.74211 Alto del Perdón ("Mount of Forgiveness"), an iconic spot with metal structures of parading pilgrims erected in 1996. It symbolizes the groups roaming the route throughout history, starting from the pioneers on the left, tradesmen on horseback in the Middle Ages, a gap of dwindling interest in the Camino for five centuries, and ending with backpackers today on the right. Also inscribed within the structure is a Spanish phrase, "Donde se cruza el camino del viento con el de las estrellas." ("Where the path of the wind crosses with that of the stars.").

The descent to the other side of the hill however is once again covered with rocks and requires some caution to navigate. The village of Uterga greets you a kilometre away from the foothill, followed by Obanos, and ended with 42.67146-1.815045 Puente La Reina .

The trail goes over the bridge that gives the town its name ("the queen's bridge" – ordered by her in the 11th century for the convenience of pilgrims) and continues on a dirt road through the villages of Mañeru, Cirauqui atop a hill, Lorca, and Villatuerta. Most pilgrims would end the day in 42.6705-2.030646 Estella or the following village, Ayegui, after a 22 km walk. The former features a wonderful example of Romanesque architecture, with narrow halls and a church atop the hill offering a beautiful view of the city centre nestled by the Ega River.

Just out of Ayegui, you will pass Irache with its infamous 42.650747-2.0440662 wine fountain . While you can take out wine for free, the fountain also gives out water. The adjacent monastery is large and also worth stopping by. Just outside town, the route splits into two branches: The main route follows the road and passes Villamayor de Monjardín with a castle atop a hill in 6 km. The other branch takes you to the other side of the highway to Luquin under normal trail conditions. In both cases, be aware that there is no water source or shade for about 10 km until the next big village, 42.56949-2.192317 Los Arcos .

Beyond Los Arcos, villages are fewer and further between, again with no shades to protect against the sun and wind. The next one, Sansol is 6 km away. Across the river, Torres del Rio has an octagonal church that models the Holy Seculptre of Jerusalem. The trail then goes through hills and olive gardens before rejoining the motor highway until Viana in 10 km.

Leaving Viana, you will be exiting Navara and entering La Rioja, with its landmark vineyards strewn along the trail. In another 10 km, you reach the next big town on the French Way, 42.47-2.4455568 Logroño.

A majority of the trail cuts through farms and vineyards, offering little shade in case of hot weather. Bring plenty of water and possibly plan for some more breaks on your day than in the previous sections.

The way out of Logroño is long, taking almost 3 km — nature begins once passing under the highway, as the path leads to Grajera Park. About 5 km later, after walking along the highway, the next village, Navarette is upon you. Do not miss the cathedral with its golden Baroque altarpiece, a rarity in Spanish churches.

Out of Navarette, there are two villages with accommodations that require a slight detour: Sotés and Ventosa. The next large town, 42.415833-2.7341679 Nájera lies directly on the route, 16 km away. The monastery at the other side of the river is one of the important sights on the Camino, and a path atop the red hill offers a wonderful view of the Najerilla river valley.

The path out of Najera begins as a moderate ascent that cuts through its hills before levelling out into fields and vineyards. Take a rest at Azofra as the next village, Cirueña is 9 km away after that and only has a restaurant at the golf course when you enter. The next large town where most pilgrims would stay, 42.44015-2.9536510 Santo Domingo De La Calzada is only about an hour's walk away, after a walk through vast wheatfields. The cathedral is unique in that there are two live chickens guarding the church. According to legend, the saint who gives the town its name saved the life of an innocent who had been unfairly sentenced to death by presenting a resurrected cooked chicken to the local governor for lunch. Its descendants live in its choir loft and the adjacent municipal albergue.

Some pilgrims continue their journey to Grañón, where in addition to normal accommodation, there is a famous parochial albergue that serves pilgrims for a donation and offers a chance to contribute to the dinner service and common activities.

Passing Grañón, you will enter a marker of the next autonomous state, Castilla y Leon, where the Camino will stretch almost 400 km long. The first villages you encounter will be Redecilla del Camino and Castildelgado. The nearest major town is 42.420513-3.19023611 Belorado . Out of Belorado, the trail is relatively uneventful with a few villages in between until Villafranca Montes De Oca. After this village, a 250-m ascent in 3 km awaits you, leading through a mountain range with a gentle descent for 9 km towards the next village, 42.374444-3.43638912 San Juan de Ortega. Thankfully, this area has tall trees as shades and there are rest points at its peak, with a magnificent view in good weather.

The way after San Juan de Ortega has two options that ends at the next large town, Burgos: the left fork runs through asphalt and is more suitable for bicyclists, the right fork goes through more villages with better attractions. The village of Ages is a worthwhile place to take a break. The following village, Atapuerca is famous for its archeological site, where bones of what would be the oldest human settlements of Western Europe at 800,000 years old were found. To the left of the path as you enter town is a monolith commemorating the death of the last king of Navarra in 1054 after a battle against the Castilian kingdom.

Another mountain range, although not as strenuous of a hike as before, is right ahead. At the Atapuerca cross, Burgos is visible in good weather. Down the hill, you will pass through more villages, such as Cardeñuela Riopico and Orbaneja Riopico.

The entrance to 42.340833-3.69972213 Burgos can be done in two ways from the junction just after the highway bridge: the left fork spans along the airport runway and after another crossing under the highway, into the city park along River Arlanzon. The right fork is straightforward and goes through the city's industrial area for at least 5 km. Burgos is a large town and a good place for a rest day as there are opportunities for local exploration.

You will walk on the Meseta, a vast plateau about 200 km long with little topographic difference. From spring to midsummer, the area is green and colorful with sprouting wheat and crops; after harvest season in August, the area is plain brown, exposing the barren ground. Due to the absence of shades during the first half of the trail, there is no protection from the sun and heat in summer, as well as wind and rain in winter. The villages are fewer and further between compared to the other sections, although it is in general still manageable to walk in your typical distance of 20 to 25 km per day.

Pilgrims have polarizing opinions regarding this section—many find it boring and would travel by bus directly to Leon; others find it as their favorite or 'real' part of the French Camino, an opportunity to contemplate or forge deeper friendships with fellow pilgrims amidst the monotonicity.

To rejoin the trail from Burgos, cross the Malatos bridge to the other side of the river, pass by the Huelgas Monastery and University of Burgos. Crossing under the rail bridge and over the river & highway, you will encounter the first town on the Meseta, Tardajos. Another river crossing leads you to Rabé de las Calzadas. The trail ascends slowly but surely to the Matamulos (lit. mule killer) lookout point, overlooking 42.338056-3.92527814 Hornillos Del Camino . You would have walked 20 km, but if you wish to walk a little bit further or look for an alternative accommodation, 42.312778-4.04583315 Hontanas is 'only' 11 km away and has more options.

The trail then meanders away from the main road, separated by a creek, before stretching along the road. It then passes through a cavernous ruin of the former 42.29185-4.099453 Convent of St. Anton, used to treat pilgrims and patients of ergotism and now houses an albergue. A short walk thereafter, you will arrive at 42.287778-4.13888916 Castrojeriz , one of two substantial towns in the Meseta.

• 9 km from Castrojeriz
• 447 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 42.278927-4.2433031 Hospital of San Nicolas Church (Albergue Ermita de San Nicolas de Puente Fitero) (South of town just south of Puente Fitero). Check-out: wake-up by candlelight at dawn. A 12th-century hermitage operated by an Italian confraternity. Unique albergue run in 12th-century fashion with no electricity. Dinner is served to pilgrims staying here. donation. (updated Mar 2022)

• 10 km from Itero del Castillo
• 437 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 42.258455-4.346562 Albergue En El Camino, Calle Francos 3, ☏ +34 979 810 284, [email protected]. €10 per night, dinner €11, breakfast €3. (updated Apr 2022)

• 6 km from Boadilla del Camino
• 430 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 19 km from Fromista
• 411 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 23 km from Carrion De Los Condes
• 388 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 42.354746-4.8655363 Albergue LaMorena, C. Carretera, 3, ☏ +34 626 972 118, [email protected]. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 09:00. Private albergue. €15 per night. (updated Mar 2022)

• 17 km from Ledigos
• 371 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 10 km from Sahagun
• 361 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 27 km from Bercianos del Real Camino
• 334 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 19 km from Mansilla de las Mulas
• 315 km to Santiago de Compostela

This is a good place for a rest day as there are opportunities for local exploration.

The Camino Frances cuts the suburbs of León for a long time before splitting into two branches just after 42.581111-5.649 La Virgen del Camino: the main way goes along the asphalt road through an industrial area with more accommodation options at 42.5175-5.76638910 Villadangos del Páramo and 42.494722-5.80777811 San Martin del Camino. The alternative way is longer but goes through nature, with the main village being 42.485-5.7312 Villar de Mazarife.

Both the main and alternative way merge at 42.461111-5.88416713 Hospital de Órbigo , where the trail crosses over a long Roman bridge. From here, the way splits again into two branches: the main way is straight along the motorway, while the natural way goes through more hills and some more villages with accommodation options. Both meet again at the Crucero de Santo Toribio and continues to 42.4575-6.05694414 Astorga.

• 25 km from Astorga
• 243 km to Santiago de Compostela
• 42.488864-6.3614751 Cruz de Hierro (Cruz de Ferro). Also known as the Iron Cross, it is set on a gently sloping hill that also happens to be the highest point of the French Way, marking the way for pilgrims who walk the Camino Frances during the winter when everything is covered in a thick layer of snow. According to custom, if you bring a small piece of your own home town along with you, you may place it at the foot of the hill and symbolically “leave your burdens behind”. (updated Mar 2022)

• 28 km from Foncebadón
• 215 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 27 km from Ponferrada
• 192 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 10 km from Villafranca del Bierzo
• 182 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 42.648693-6.8795754 Albergue Casa Susi, 25 Calle Camino Santiago, Trabadelo Spain 24523, ☏ +34 675 24 21 14, [email protected]. 12 beds Donativo, dinner €9. (updated Mar 2022)

• 8 km to Santiago de Compostela
• 174 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 42.6652-6.94755 Albergue El Paso, Antigua Carretera Nacional VI 6, ☏ +34 628 104 309, [email protected]. price2€12 (updated Apr 2022)

• 19 km from Vega de Valcarce
• 155 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 42.707567-7.0445981 Venta Celta, Estrada do Cebreiro a Zanfoga 19, ☏ +34 667 553 006. (updated Apr 2022)

• 23 km from O Cebreiro
• 133 km to Santiago de Compostela

Many pilgrims that only have one week or less to walk the Camino would start their journey from 42.777778-7.41444422 Sarria, the closest large town from Santiago de Compostela, enough to get a certificate. Travellers coming from points before Sarria may find it a little bit of a shock that the pilgrim route is noticeably more crowded.

• 22 km from Sarria
• 93 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 25 km from Portomarín
• 68 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 14 km from Palas de Rei
• 53 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 42.913203-8.0116282 Pulperia a Garnacha, Rúa Camiño Vello de Santiago 2, ☏ +34 981 507 347, [email protected]. (updated Apr 2022)

• 14 km from Melide
• 39 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 19 km from Arzúa
• 20 km to Santiago de Compostela

• 20 km from O Pedrouzo

The official end of Camino Frances. Some pilgrims choose to continue on to "The End of the World," Fisterra, via El Camino Finisterre.

Being the most popular route on the Camino de Santiago, most villages that this route passes by have some form of accommodation, the most common ones being hostels (albergues).

The most common stop points usually have municipal hostels with basic facilities in a shared room, some of which have more than one hundred beds. Some of them also have basic kitchen for self-catering. There are also parochial hostels that also offer the same amenities, sometimes with upgraded experience such as a community dinner and/or breakfast, all for a generous donation.

The next category are private hostels that are a little more expensive. They usually offer a range of services, from dinner for an additional fee, better beds, blankets for cold nights, to washing machines. Some of these are also attached to their restaurant for other non-overnight patrons to stop by. Here, private rooms are also sometimes offered in addition to common sleeping halls.

If you want guaranteed privacy, a pension, hostal (sic!), or hotel is the right choice; these are a bit more limited to common stop points as described in guide books, and the largest towns.

Already facing a tough terrain to conquer on the first day, the Pyrenees are well known for their adverse conditions, especially during inclement weather. Air rescues and even deaths due to frostbites, trapped in snow, injuries from slips and exhaustion, and getting lost are unfortunately not uncommon.

Check the weather conditions before attempting the ascent or inquire at the pilgrim's office at St. Jean-Pied-de-Port. If in doubt, the route through Valcarlos is always safer and less strenuous.

On the Spanish side, there is an emergency phone, a shelter, and numbered mileposts. In case of emergency and you need a rescue, mentioning your location will be helpful for them to locate you.

There are yellow arrows or the yellow shell on a blue background that indicates the direction of travel. In the Pyrenees however, signs are surprisingly scarce. The pilgrim's office at St. Jean-Pied-de-Port will give pilgrims a map showing the path. If in doubt, follow where most people would be heading.

Thieves posing as pilgrims do occasionally steal items, especially on the municipal pilgrims. If your room has a locker, keep your valuables and backpack inside. If not possible, put your valuables under the pillow or hug them while you sleep.

Stray dogs are seldom to find but may still be prevalent just outside towns. If a dog turns aggressive, especially in packs, keep calm and walk slowly around them: do not run away.

• El Camino Finisterre