GR 20 Voyage Tips and guide

The GR 20 is one of the extensive Grande Randonnée (or GR) network of paths and trails. The trail traverses Corsica's mountains, with its end points in Calenzana in the north and Conca in the south, running most of the length of the island. It is often referred to as "the toughest long distance trail in Europe", covering a distance of 180 km and around 12,000 to 13,000 metres of climbing and descent, over rugged terrain.

See also: Grande Randonnée

The GR 20 is one of Europe's most challenging and iconic long-distance hiking trails, traversing the rugged spine of Corsica from north to south over approximately 180 kilometers. First waymarked in 1972, the route connects Calenzana in the Balagne region to Conca near Porto-Vecchio, cutting through the dramatic high mountains of the Corsican interior. It passes through the Parc Naturel Régional de Corse, a protected area rich in biodiversity, home to wild boar, mouflon, golden eagles, and endemic plant species.

Geographically, the GR 20 crosses some of the island's most remote and mountainous terrain, including jagged ridgelines, deep valleys, alpine lakes, and exposed granite slopes. It offers sweeping views of both the Mediterranean coast and inland peaks, often above 2,000 meters. The trail passes close to the summits of several, so it's possible to take a summit detour. The trail also moves through traditional Corsican shepherding zones and occasional mountain hamlets, where you’ll find remnants of the island’s pastoral heritage and strong cultural identity shaped by centuries of resistance and autonomy.

Hikers are likely to encounter Corsican French and some regional Corsican language, along with a fiercely independent mountain culture. The GR 20 is not a casual hike. It demands strong physical fitness, mountain experience, and sure-footedness. Many sections involve scrambling, steep ascents, and technical descents, especially in the northern half. The trail is best suited for experienced hikers seeking a physically and mentally demanding adventure through one of the Mediterranean’s most striking landscapes.

42°7′7″N 9°4′0″E

Map of GR 20

The trail is normally done in 16 days if you stay at all the refuges, however, people often do it in less. Some of the stages are very short and can be combined. So don't just naively book all the refuges, do some planning about which stages to combine and which refuges to skip. In addition, you don't always have to stay in refuges: there are some private bergeries and hotels. Sometimes staying in a bergerie or hotel makes more sense if it breaks the route into more manageable stages. Also check transport timetables before making any bookings: buses don't run every day.

The route may be walked in either direction. Most people start in the north, however starting in the south creates a nice build up in required effort. Many people walk just half the route, and come back the following year to do the other half. Vizzavona is an ideal place to start or stop, because it has a train station. If you only have time to do half the route, the northern half has the rugged highlights including Monte Cinto, but is slightly longer.

The route is very regularly marked with the white and red stripes of the GR symbol. The route is so well marked that if you lose sight of the markers, you must retrace your steps immediately until you find the route again. It is completely possible to do the whole route without a map, but take one, anyway, as a safety backup.

• Corsica High Route GR20 IGN 89027. One map covering the whole route, plastified for waterproofing. Scale 1:50000.
• Carte de Randonnée 4149 OT - 4253 OT and 4253 ET (6 maps). Scale 1:25000. Much more expensive because you have to buy six maps.
• Le GR 20 Corse (Fra li monti). Editions Didier Richard. ISBN 9782344000434. Scale 1:50000.

Refuges along the route provide full board options, offering dinner, breakfast, and packed lunches. Dinner must usually be reserved by 17:00, sometimes as early as 16:30. As of 2022, expect to pay around €20 or more for dinner and about €10 each for breakfast and a packed lunch. Wine and beer are also available, and the local chestnut beer, typically €8 for 50cl, is worth trying. Meals are hearty but simple. Dinner is usually a three-course meal dominated by pasta, with occasional additions such as tuna, tomatoes, cheese, or a chocolate mousse for dessert. Although the food can seem expensive for what it is, the price reflects the cost of transporting ingredients up the mountains, and most refuge guardians make a genuine effort to provide good meals. Breakfasts are generally modest, consisting of stale bread with butter and jam, fruit juice, and a hot drink. They are not especially good value, so if you are on a budget, this is the easiest meal to skip. An energy bar can easily replace it, and you can make up calories at dinner. Many hikers find that three refuge meals a day is more than they need.

Refuges also sell a small range of food items such as cheese, saucisson, and snack bars. In the southern part of the island below Vizzavona, you can often find fresh bread, while elsewhere you will usually have to settle for long-life bread. In towns like Asco and Vizzavona there are restaurants and small shops offering a wider variety of food.

If you prefer to self-cater, whether to save money or to meet dietary needs, carrying your own supplies will increase pack weight, so it is best to bring lightweight, energy-dense foods. Most refuges have basic cooking facilities, including stoves and pans, but these can get busy or may not always be in working order. Bringing your own stove offers flexibility, although if you are content with cold meals, leaving it behind will save some weight.

Fuel availability varies across the island. Methylated spirits, sold as cooking alcohol, are easy to find in supermarkets and work well in Trangia stoves without clogging them. Press-top gas canisters are also fairly common, but screw-top gas canisters are harder to find, though they were available in Calvi as of 2008.

There are usually marked water sources near all of the refuges, though some years a refuge will lack water. There are also the occasional marked sources on route which are safe to drink. Springs dry up in the summer months and there are some long ridges without points of resupply. You should carry at least 2 L of water, and drink a litre of water before you leave each refuge.

You must bring your own sleeping bag.

The "official" refuges can be booked through the National Parc website. It is cheaper to book in advance, and guarantees you a place. For example, a dorm bed (bât flanc) is €17 in advance or €22 on the day as of 2024. Booking opens at the beginning of February. Official refuges can be booked for 22 May until 2 October. You can't book the refuges out of season. Refuges will be open but unstaffed, with no food or fuel. The water may be turned off. A few additional private refuges ("bergeries", literally "sheepfolds") and hotels exist on the route. Bergerie accommodation is similarly priced to the national park refuges. Hotels are present at a couple of places along the trail but are much more expensive.

Most refuges have a dormitory, as well as tents with air mattresses for rent, and space for your own tent. Some refuges do not have dormitories. If you cannot book a dorm bed, try booking a tent ("bivouac") for that refuge instead. Tents are a bit more private. There is little reason to bring your own tent or roll mat, it is just extra weight to carry and time to set it up. Wild camping is not allowed, you must pay to stay at the refuges even if you bring your own tent.

Most refuges do not accept payment cards, so you must bring cash. As a general rule, if a refuge doesn't have phone signal, it will not accept payment cards. You should book refuges in advance to reduce the amount of cash you have to carry (and to save money), however this reduces your flexibility. As of 2022, approximately €40 a day will cover 3 meals. You can save money by bringing your own food, but this adds considerable weight. You can also save money by eating lots at breakfast and dinner and skipping lunch. If you want to drink alcohol, bring extra money to cover it.

Refuges typically have hot showers, space to cook, a drinkable water supply, and a small shop selling food and alcohol. They will sell you dinner, breakfast and a packed lunch if you want. Dinner must typically be booked by 17:00 (sometimes 16:30). Breakfast and packed lunch must be booked the night before.

Most refuges have plug sockets to charge your phone, but some charge for this service. At refuges where it's free, the plug sockets are typically in high demand!

Most refuges don't have phone signal, but you will typically find phone signal during the day at some point along each stage.

Snow often lingers into late May but usually clears by June, so specialist equipment such as ice axes or crampons is not needed during the main season. July and August bring the hottest weather and a higher risk of thunderstorms, and some water sources may dry up. Early September is an excellent time to visit, as you will avoid the intense summer heat while still enjoying warm, mostly dry conditions. However, buses may not operate daily, taxis can be expensive, and flights often stop by mid-September. From October onwards, refuges are typically unstaffed and lack food or fuel, and snowfall becomes likely, obscuring the route and making travel more hazardous.

42.559.4847221 Bastia Airport.   typically has the cheapest flights.

From Bastia Airport to Bastia train station, you can take a bus for €10 as of 2025, but check the timetable to make sure it is running that day. Bastia Airport bus timetable You can also take a taxi, but if the traffic is bad it can cost over €60 (as of 2022).

Calenzana is the northernmost point of the route. You can get a bus between Calvi and Calenza for €8 as of 2021. Timetables are here. From 1 July to 4 September, there are two buses each day in both directions. From 5 September, buses from Calvi to Calenzana only run on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday at 15:30, and there are no buses from Calenzana to Calvi. You could walk it in 3 hours, take a taxi, or even hitchhike.

You can take a train between Bastia and Calvi for €16.40 as of 2022. Train schedules are here. A taxi from Calvi airport costs approximately €30 as of 2022.

Vizzavona is a good point to the break the route if you only want to do half of it.

You can take a train to 42.1286119.1333332 Gare de Vizzavona.   from Bastia or via the Bastia—Ajaccio line. Ajaccio is quickest, you can go straight from the airport.

The train between Vizzavona and Bastia town costs €14.60 as of 2022. Train schedules are here.

Conca is the southernmost point of the route. You can get a bus between Bastia and Ste Lucie de Porto-Vecchio (6km from Conca). It does not run every day, see here for details. See Rapides Bleus to view the schedule and book tickets. Price is €30 per person and €1 per bag as of 2024. In July and August only, the northbound bus can drop off passengers directly at Bastia Airport. The bus stop in Ste Lucie de Porto-Vecchio is opposite the Bar U Colombu.

To get from Conca to Ste Lucie de Porto-Vecchio, Gîte étape la Tonnelle used to run a shuttle bus, however as of 2024 it is suspended until further notice. You may be able to get an Uber instead, or the hike is 1 hour 15 minutes.

Distance

12 km

Duration

5-6 h

Ascent

1550 m

Starting in 42.5080568.8552781 Calenzana in the north of Corsica, you can stay at the official Gîte municipal de Calenzana. Restaurants and limited Airbnbs available. Buses run from Calvi, but buses to Calvi only operate until September 4.

According to the signposts, it is 6.5 hours from Calenzana to Ortu, or 5 hours Ortu to Calenzana. In practice going north from Ortu to Calenzana can be done comfortably in 4 hours (2 hours from Ortu to Bocca u Saltu (1,250m), then 2 hours winding gradually down a pine-covered slope to Calenzana).

• 42.5104318.8511811 Gîte municipal de Calenzana. €15 per bed, limited tent space (no rental tents available). Showers (in poor condition), plenty of plug sockets for charging, good cooking facilities. Spar supermarket is a 5-minute walk away. Book by phone/email or pay cash on arrival (office open from 16:30).  

• 42.4605598.909812 Refuge d'Ortu di u Piobbu. No dormitory, tents only (refuge burned down in 2019). One hot shower. Dinner €20 (reserve by 16:30), breakfast €9, packed lunch €9, beer €6. No phone signal or charging. One hot shower. Watch the sunset over the sea.  

Distance

8 km

Duration

6-6.5 h

Ascent

750 m

Trail signs suggest 6-6.5 hours; experienced hikers often complete it in about 5 hours. The trail descends to Refuge de Carrozzu.

• 42.4262398.9004763 Refuge de Carrozzu. No phone signal. Sheltered from the sun even at midday, so it can be chilly. Many hikers choose to skip this refuge and complete the Asco to Ortu stage in one day.  

Distance

6 km

Duration

3.25-3.5 h

Ascent

860 m

From Carrozzu, reach the metal bridge (Passerelle) in about 15 minutes, then continue another 3 hours to Refuge d'Asco Stagnu. Asco is accessible by road. Credit cards accepted everywhere in the town.

• 42.4035078.9223524 Refuge d'Asco Stagnu. Good hot showers, plenty of electric sockets, and strong phone signal. 2022 prices: Dinner €19, breakfast €8, packed lunch €9. Also a small shop. The refuge offers better value than most due to competition from the hotel and café.  

• Hotel Le Chalet. The hotel does a buffet breakfast (05:30-08:00) for €14 (2022); you must book the day before. 

• Snack L'Altore. Open 10:00-19:00. Makes good burgers. 

Distance

9 km

Duration

6-7 h

Ascent

1250 m

The sign at Asco says 6-7 hours to Refuge de Tighjettu, but this is likely pessimistic; the return journey from Tighjettu to Asco takes about 5 hours.

An optional diversion to 42.3797228.9458331 Monte Cinto , the highest mountain in Corsica (2,706m), adds approximately 2 hours (1 hour ascent, 15 minutes to admire the view, 45 minutes descent). The route is initially marked with white squares, then mostly with red circles. Follow the sign leading away from Lac Cinto.

About 40 minutes above Asco, there is a bridge, and just above that, some lovely pools where you can paddle and sunbathe.

The GR20 route previously passed through the Cirque de la Solitude, but in 2015, a landslide tragically killed several hikers. In 2016, all aids and markers were removed from this route, and the new route now passes near Monte Cinto. While it is possible to hire a guide in Asco to explore the Cirque de la Solitude, the area remains dangerous due to unstable rubble. Without a guide, the route is nearly impossible to find, and without the chains and ladder, it is more akin to rock climbing than trekking.

As an alternative to the official refuge, the Auberge u Vallone is 30 minutes south of Tighjettu and offers a higher standard of accommodation. However, Tighjettu is closer to Monte Cinto so is a good place to stop before or after tackling the mountain.

• 42.3622428.9088155 Refuge de Tighjettu. Dinner (€23, served at 19:00), breakfast (€10). Charcuterie available for dinner - a rare protein source. Pietra beer (€7 for 50cl), red wine (€10 per liter), and rosé (€12 per liter, poor quality). Phone charging available for €2. No phone signal.  

• 42.3529018.9078436 Auberge u Vallone (Bergerie de Ballone). Private accommodation with hot showers. 2.5 hours from Ciottulu, 30 minutes from Tighjettu. Dinner €25, breakfast €8, packed lunch €15. Beer (€5 for 33cl Paolina, three varieties available). Specialty: gâteau à la farine de châtaigne (chestnut flour cake, €4). Camping €8.50 per person, or rent their tent for €12.50 per person. No phone signal.  

Distance

10 km

Duration

4 h

Ascent

650 m

Enjoy swimming in the pools 10 minutes south of Tighjettu before continuing on the trail. You can make a detour to the summit of Paglia Orba. This stage ends at Refuge de Ciottulu di i Mori. From Auberge U Vallone to Hotel Castel di Vergio is 15km, with 850m of ascent and 870m of descent.

• 42.3349568.8681347 Refuge de Ciottulu di i Mori. Dinner (€22, order by 17:00, served at 18:30), breakfast (€7), and limited phone charging available. No phone signal. On a clear night, the valley is illuminated by moonlight, offering stunning starry views.  

Distance

22 km

Duration

8 h

Alternative accommodation is available at Hotel Castel de Vergio, located about halfway through the stage. The hotel serves hot food from 12:00, while cold food is available before then. Minimum card payment is €20. Food is also available at the Bergerie de Radule, also about halfway through the stage. From Hotel Castel Di Vergio to Refuge de Manganu is 17km, with 670m of ascent and 475m of descent.

• 42.2867458.8927498 Hotel Castel de Vergio. Located about halfway between Manganu and Ciottulu. Offers meals and accommodation. Hot food is served from 12:00, cold food before then. Minimum card spend: €20.  

• 42.3036458.875279 Bergerie de Radule. Located about halfway between Manganu and Ciottulu. A good stop for refreshments along the route.  

• 42.2198168.98045910 Refuge de Manganu. Known for its pleasant atmosphere. Dinner (€19), breakfast (€8), beer (€7). No phone reception or charging.  

Distance

10 km

Duration

5-6 h

Ascent

980 m

The route to Refuge de Pietra Piana involves rocky and occasionally challenging terrain.

• 42.19819.0524211 Refuge de Pietra Piana. Serves French fries (€5), ice cream (€5), dinner (€20), breakfast (€10), and picnic meals (€10). 50cl beer (€8), 50cl wine (€7). Free phone charging. Phone signal available. Dormitory closed as of 2022 due to bedbug infestation; guests with reservations are offered tents instead.  

Distance

11 km

Duration

3.5 h

Ascent

500 m

Ends at Refuge de l'Onda. There is an alternative high-level route which is slightly quicker.

• 42.152769.073612 Refuge de l'Onda. Vegan dinner (€25), breakfast (€9). 50cl beer (€8). Phone charging available for €1. No phone signal. The refuge is closed due to a bedbug infestation; guests are accommodated in tents instead. The campsite is closer to the restaurant and has a better atmosphere.  

Distance

11 km

Duration

4.5 h

Ascent

670 m

An optional detour to 42.13759.0986112 Monte d'Oro adds around 2.5 hours. The summit must be approached from the east, requiring a detour around the mountain if coming from the west. The route is marked infrequently with yellow circles.

Stop at 42.1169439.110053 Cascade des Anglais, a waterfall where you can swim and purchase refreshments during high season.

An alternative, more challenging route goes over the top of Monte d'Oro then straight down to Vizzavona. If coming from Vizzavona, the turn-off is quite soon after you leave Vizzavona.

Vizzavona has no refuge, but a variety of campsites and hotels. It is accessible by train.

Distance

16 km

Duration

4.5-5.5 h

Ascent

1000 m

Bergeries de E Capanelle has no official refuge but is a good place to break the route if you want to climb Monte Renoso.

• 42.0773639.15028713 Gîte U Fugone. Comfortable accommodation Bergeries de E Capanelle. Offers half-board (accommodation, dinner, and breakfast) for €44 as of 2024. Camping is available, and tents can be rented. Cash only.  

Distance

14 km

Duration

5.5 h

Ascent

320 m

An optional variant route via 42.05839.133614 Monte Renoso extends the total time to around 8 hours.

The official refuge is Refuge de Prati. Alternatively Relais San Petru Di Verde is 1.5 hours north of Refuge de Prati, so a good option for those hiking Monte Renoso.

• 42.00849.2182414 Refuge de Prati. Basic mountain refuge offering meals and accommodation. Limited facilities available.  
• Relais San Petru Di Verde. Chalets, camping and showers. Hot food available. Half board in a dormitory is €49 as of 2025. 

Distance

16 km

Duration

5-6 h

Ascent

1290 m

This stage ends at Refuge d'Usciolu.

• 41.91819.205315 Refuge d'Usciolu. Basic mountain refuge with meal options and accommodation.  

Distance

12 km

Duration

3.5-4.5 h

Ascent

340 m

Refuge Matalza is not an official refuge but a good place to break the route.

• 41.87429.152416 Refuge Matalza. Privately operated refuge, open from May 26 to September 30. Offers meals and accommodation.  

Distance

11 km

Duration

3.25-4.25 h

Ascent

665 m

This stage goes over 41.8494669.207385 Monte Incudine (2,134m), also known as Alcùdina.

• 41.8414529.21433517 Refuge d'Asinau. The original Refuge d'Asinau burned down in 2016, but camping and food are available.  

• 41.8395979.21565718 Bergeries d'Asinao. Private accommodations.  

Distance

15 km

Duration

4.5-5.5 h

Ascent

1535 m

Some people stay in the Col de Bavella, or just stop for lunch there, about 1.5 hours north of Refuge de Paliri. Private accommodations and meal options are available at Col de Bavella. You can view the village statue of the Virgin Mary. Asinau to Col de Bavella is 11km, with 380m of ascent and 695m of descent.

There's an optional variant route via 41.8112449.2178726 Aiguilles de Bavella (1,855 m). This scenic variant covers 8 km from Asinau to the Village (Col) de Bavella, and takes around 4.5 to 5.5 hours, with 550m of ascent and 865m of descent. It traverses the heart of the Aiguilles de Bavella, characterized by jagged peaks and rocky walls, offering breathtaking views of the Corsican landscape. However, this route is technically demanding, with sections requiring scrambling and the use of hands, including a passage equipped with chains for assistance.

• 41.79419.2593919 Refuge de Paliri. Basic mountain refuge offering meals and accommodation.  
• Auberge du Col de Bavella. Restaurant, bar and accommodation. 
• Les Aiguilles de Bavella. Double rooms, dormitory beds, and a restaurant. 

Distance

12 km

Duration

4.5-6 h

Ascent

300 m

The final stage finishes in 41.7359.3333332 Conca , where hikers can stay at Gîte de la Tonnelle or Hotel San Pasquale. Alternatively, hikers may stay in Sainte-Lucie-de-Porto-Vecchio to catch the coach to Bastia the next morning. The hike from Conca to Sainte-Lucie-de-Porto-Vecchio is a little over 1 hour. Col de Bavella to Conca is 19km, with 700m of ascent and 1670m of descent, and takes up to 7 hours.

• 41.733179.33765820 Gîte de la Tonnelle. Dorms, meals, and camping available. Laundry facilities, towel rental. Shuttle services to Sainte-Lucie-de-Porto-Vecchio are suspended as of 2024.  

• 41.736849.33852421 Hotel San Pasquale. Hotel offering private rooms and gîtes for accommodation.  

It’s best to begin your walk early. By setting out in the morning, you’ll avoid the strongest heat of the sun, ensure that others are nearby should you need help, and allow yourself extra time in case things don’t go according to plan.

In most dormitories, people set their alarms for 6:00 a.m., so you’ll likely wake up then anyway. Aim to depart by 7:00 a.m. each day.

• You can relax on one of Corsica's famous beaches, such as Plage de Santa Giulia in Porto-Vecchio or continue hiking another Grande Randonnée route.