GR 223 Voyage Tips and guide

The GR 223 is a French hiking trail in the Grande Randonnée network.

It is known as Sentier des Douaniers ("Custom Officers' Way"); the route is mostly coastal.

No permits are required. The trail is marked throughout with red-and-white GR blazes, and apps like Komoot or Visorando can help. The route is mostly flat coastal walking with occasional cliff climbs — sturdy waterproof boots are the main equipment need. The path is not suitable for wheelchairs or prams due to beaches, rocky stretches, and uneven surfaces. Luggage transfer and hiker shuttles are available along parts of the route through services such as La Malle Postale.

Towns and villages at the end of each stage reliably offer restaurants, bakeries, and small shops, so there is no need to carry a stove or significant food reserves. The exception is the wilder stretches around Cap de la Hague and the Cotentin marshes, where services can be sparse — carry extra snacks on those days.

French tap water is safe to drink and available at accommodation, cafés, and town fountains throughout the route. Carry 1–1.5 litres between settlements on quieter sections. Avoid drinking from streams and burns untreated, as agricultural run-off is common along the coast.

Hotels, B&Bs, gîtes d'étape, and campsites are found at the end of most stages. A sleeping bag is unnecessary if staying in gîtes or hotels, though a lightweight sheet liner is handy at simpler gîtes. Book ahead in summer, as accommodation fills quickly between June and August. Wild camping is not legally permitted in France without landowner consent.

Spring and autumn offer the most pleasant conditions. Normandy is temperate but wet and windy throughout the year, so waterproofs are essential regardless of season. The trail can be done in winter, though days are short, some accommodation closes, and coastal paths become muddy. Take extra care near beaches and estuaries during heavy rain and high tides.

• Honfleur has no train station; reach it by bus from Caen or Le Havre, both well connected to Paris by rail. By car, exit the A13 at Pont-l'Évêque or cross the Pont de Normandie toll bridge from Le Havre.
• Caen is a major rail hub midway along the route, useful for joining or leaving the trail at the D-Day beaches section.
• Cherbourg has train connections to Paris Saint-Lazare and along the Cotentin coast, making it a convenient entry or exit point for the northern loop around Cap de la Hague.
• Granville is served by trains to Paris Montparnasse via Folligny, and is a good access point for the final bay section.
• Mont Saint-Michel has no direct rail access; take a train to Pontorson then a shuttle bus to the island causeway.

Map of GR 223

It goes all the way from 49.41910.23431 Honfleur to Mont Saint Michel via the coast of Calvados and Cotentin (Mont Saint Michel is on the Breton border in the west). The entire walk takes a month, but most people prefer to pick sections according to their interest.

Honfleur – Carentan (Côte Fleurie and Côte de Nacre)

 194 km 10–11 days

The first part of the walk goes west past some coastlines including the 49.3401450.0289962 Côte Fleurie (literally, "Flowery Coast") and the 49.324676-0.3652583 Côte de Nacre (literally, "Mother of Pearl Coast"). The route passes through the elegant Belle Époque resorts of 49.36670.08334 Trouville-sur-Mer and 49.35830.06975 Deauville , then continues along the chalk cliffs of the Pays d'Auge to the broad sandy beaches of the Côte de Nacre. The section ends at 49.3039-1.24866 Carentan in the Manche department, at the edge of the Cotentin marshlands.

Carentan – Granville (D-Day Beaches and Tour du Cotentin)

 446 km 20 days

Farther west, history fans often choose to visit the D-Day beaches, between Ouistreham and Grandcamp-Maisy, where the route passes Sword, Juno, Gold, Omaha, and Utah Beaches. The trail then enters the 49.3-1.357 Parc naturel régional des Marais du Cotentin et du Bessin, before heading north through the Val de Saire to 49.5886-1.26978 Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue, with its UNESCO-listed Vauban towers, and the charming fishing village of 49.6733-1.26449 Barfleur . Lovers of nature (cliffs and coves) prefer the walk around 49.726619-1.93978910 Cap de la Hague, west of 49.6361-1.625811 Cherbourg, nicknamed "Little Ireland" for its heathlands and dry-stone walls. The trail then follows the Côte des Isles southwards past 49.3831-1.772812 Barneville-Carteret and a succession of havres (estuaries) rich in wildlife, ending at 48.8369-1.597513 Granville , an old corsair town perched on its rock.

Granville – Mont Saint-Michel (Baie du Mont Saint-Michel)

 49 km 3 days

Others still opt to approach Mont Saint-Michel around its eponymous bay. The 48.69753-1.6460914 Baie du mont Saint-Michel is the location of an amazing island and village. The final section passes the dramatic Champeaux cliffs, which offer the first sweeping views of the Mont Saint-Michel silhouette on the horizon. At 48.6861-1.530615MISSING WIKILINK Genêts, hikers can join a guided crossing of the bay at low tide. The route ends at 48.6361-1.51151MISSING WIKILINK Mont Saint-Michel itself, where the GR 223 meets the GR 34.

Word has it that there are problems with cliff erosion over certain sections, so don't be surprised if you are diverted inland at some points.

• GR 21