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Note: Floods in February 2022 caused major damage to three bridges on the West Coast end of the track, leading to the closure of the section between James Mackay Hut and Heaphy Hut. The rest of the track and all the huts are open, and the track can be accessed for return trips from either road-end. Through-travel is not possible until the bridges are rebuilt and the damaged section of track repaired. |
The Heaphy Track is a tramping track in the north-west of the South Island of New Zealand. It passes Mt Perry and contains some caves with glow worms, rain forest, river walks and coastal walks. It is one of the Department of Conservation (DOC) Great Walks.
Understand
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The 78.4 km (48.7 mi) Heaphy Track is one of New Zealand’s Great Walks and crosses the remote north-west of the South Island through Kahurangi National Park. The trail runs between Brown Hut, about 28 km (17 mi) from Collingwood in Golden Bay, and Kohaihai, about 14 km (8.7 mi) north of Karamea on the West Coast.
The track is notable for the diversity of landscapes it passes through. Walkers move from lowland forests and limestone country into open tussock downs, then descend through lush temperate rainforest before reaching nīkau palm forests and the rugged coastline of the Tasman Sea. Along the way the route crosses numerous rivers and streams and passes through some of the most pristine wilderness in New Zealand.
The track is named after early explorer, surveyor and artist Charles Heaphy (1820–1881), who explored and mapped parts of the region in the 1840s.
Most trampers complete the track in 4–5 days, staying in huts along the route. The trail is well maintained and clearly marked, but its length and the remoteness of the park mean walkers should have basic tramping experience, good fitness, and appropriate equipment. Weather conditions can change quickly and river levels may rise after heavy rain.
Prepare
[edit]The Heaphy Track is managed as a Great Walk, meaning huts and campsites must be booked in advance through the Department of Conservation (DOC). Hut and campsite fees must be paid before travel and spaces are limited during the main season.
Walkers should carry all necessary equipment in a backpack, including clothing suitable for rapidly changing weather, food, cooking utensils and a sleeping bag. Because of the remote terrain, luggage transport services are not available.
Mountain bikes are permitted during the winter season (usually May to November), but they are not allowed during the main Great Walk tramping season.
Although the track is well marked and maintained, it is a long multi-day hike through remote terrain. Walkers should be reasonably fit and prepared for wet weather, river crossings after heavy rain, and limited facilities along the route.
Eat
[edit]There are no restaurants or shops along the track, so all food must be carried in. Most huts provide gas stoves for cooking, but walkers should bring their own pots, utensils and possibly a lightweight backup stove. Because you will be carrying several days’ worth of food, lightweight and nutritious meals are recommended. Bring enough food for each day of the walk and some extra in case delays occur.
Drink
[edit]Water is widely available from streams, rivers and hut water supplies along the track. The water is usually considered clean, but some trampers choose to boil, filter or treat water as a precaution, particularly after heavy rain or in areas with many visitors. Make sure to drink enough water each day to avoid dehydration during long walking stages.
Sleep
[edit]There are seven huts along the track spaced roughly a day’s walk apart. Most huts provide bunk beds with mattresses, toilets and water supply, and many have gas cooking facilities. During the Great Walk season hut wardens may also be present.
Dormitory-style sleeping means other walkers may snore or move around early in the morning, so some people bring earplugs for a better night’s sleep. A warm sleeping bag is necessary as temperatures can drop even in summer. Camping is permitted only at the designated campsites along the track.
Climate
[edit]The track can be walked year-round, although conditions vary greatly. Summer usually brings mild temperatures but frequent rain. Winter conditions can be colder, particularly near Perry Saddle, and heavy rain may cause rivers to rise.
The coastal section near the Tasman Sea can experience strong winds and large waves, and storm surges during high tide may occasionally affect parts of the track. Weather in Kahurangi National Park can change quickly, so waterproof clothing and warm layers are essential.
Environment
[edit]Kahurangi National Park protects a large and fragile wilderness ecosystem.
Visitors should follow Leave No Trace principles, stay on marked tracks and carry out all rubbish. Cleaning mud and plant material from boots and equipment before and after the trip helps prevent the spread of invasive species and soil-borne diseases.
Native plants and wildlife within the park are protected and should not be disturbed.
Get in
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The nearest town to the northern end of the track is Collingwood and is easily accessible from Nelson via car, bus. There is also a local airport at Takaka.
The southern end of the walk at Kohaihai is 14 km (8.6 mi) from Karamea and is accessible by car and bus via Westport. There is also a local airport at Karamea.
Walk
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17.5 km
5 hr
770 m
From 1 Brown Hut, the track crosses the Brown River and a grassy flat before climbing steadily through podocarp and beech forest. This is the longest and most relentless day on the track — almost entirely uphill, following the route of a bridle path surveyed in 1886. After 4 km, a side branch drops down to Shakespeare Flat on the Aorere River. The Aorere Shelter at roughly 800 m provides a welcome rest stop before the track tops out at Flanagan's Corner at 915 m — the highest point on the entire Heaphy Track — with views over the Aorere Valley, before a short descent to 1 Perry Saddle Hut.
7.0 km 2 hr 250 m
The track descends west from Perry Saddle, passing through forest for the first 3 km before the landscape opens dramatically onto the Gouland Downs — a wide, windswept tussock plateau sitting on ancient limestone. The terrain is unlike anything else on the track: eerie and expansive, with stunted beech trees, sinkholes, and cave entrances dotting the landscape. Watch for weka, robins, riflemen and fantails in this area. 2 Gouland Downs Hut is one of the oldest huts on the track and has a large open fireplace — a welcome sight on a wet day.
5.4 km 1.5 hr 100 m
A short and pleasant leg continuing across the northern part of the Gouland Downs, crossing Shiner Brook, Big River and Weka Creek on simple suspension bridges. The endangered blue duck (whio) may be seen along this stretch, and great spotted kiwi are sometimes heard calling around 3 Saxon Hut at night. The hut is named after John Saxon, who surveyed this section of the route.
11.8 km 3 hr 100 m
From Saxon Hut the track descends gently to the Saxon River and crosses a flat before climbing through forest on a long sidle around the slopes of Mt Teddy. The track then emerges onto the Mackay Downs, winding between tussock fields and patches of beech forest, crossing small creeks where the pink granite sparkles underfoot. Note that one 70 m section across a wetland can flood and become impassable in very wet conditions — wait for water levels to drop rather than attempting to cross. 4 James Mackay Hut sits on an open terrace above the track with views all the way to the Tasman Sea and the Heaphy River mouth, 15 km west and 750 m below.
12.5 km 3.5 hr -700 m
Note that Lewis Hut is permanently closed. The long descent to the coast begins here, dropping nearly 700 m through increasingly lush forest. As the track loses altitude, the vegetation transforms — beech gives way to podocarp and then dense rainforest. There are views of the Heaphy River mouth and the coast from exposed sections of the track.
8.0 km 2.5 hr 0 m
From Lewis Hut, the track climbs briefly to a junction before crossing the Lewis River on a footbridge and then following the Heaphy River downstream. The forest here is rich with kahikatea, rimu and rata, draped in vines and ferns. Nikau palms become increasingly common as you approach the coast, and the roar of the Tasman Sea grows steadily louder. Note that an area of limestone karst known as Cave Stream, 1 km before the hut, can flood after heavy rain. 5 Heaphy Hut sits right at the river mouth.
16.2 km 5 hr 0 m
The most dramatic day of the track follows the wild West Coast south through groves of nikau palms, across rocky headlands and past black sand beaches. The track alternates between forest and exposed coastal sections — in places it drops onto the beach itself at low tide. Be aware that some unbridged streams can be dangerous in flood, and wave surges at high tide can make parts of the track temporarily impassable, so check tide times before setting out. 1 Scotts Hill Lookout offers a sweeping view over the Kohaihai River valley and the track's end, before a descent through forest with rata, karaka and nikau to the 2 Kohaihai River Mouth, where's you'll find a 6 campsite
Stay safe
[edit]The weather in the Kahurangi National Park can change very quickly and the exposed areas can experience high winds and dense cloud. Don't take any weather warnings lightly.
Stinging nettles along the coast can provoke strong and dangerous allergic reactions.
The NZ Met Service publishes regular weather updates for Mt Luxmore on their website.
Go next
[edit]- South to Karamea, Murchison or Westport
- North to Collingwood, Onekaka or Takaka in Golden Bay
- West to Motueka, Mapua, Wakefield or Nelson
Other walks
[edit]- Wangapeka Track
- Kepler Track
- Milford Track
- Routeburn Track
- For other tracks, see Tramping in New Zealand.