Hiking in Torres del Paine Voyage Tips and guide

Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia is one of the world’s most famous trekking destinations. The park is best known for the W Trek and the longer O Circuit, both multi-day hikes through dramatic mountain scenery, glaciers, lakes, and valleys. Shorter day hikes are also possible for those with limited time. This article covers the practicalities of hiking in Torres del Paine. For general information about the park, including its history, wildlife, and entrances, see Torres del Paine National Park.

The park lies in southern Chile, on the edge of the Andes and the Patagonian steppe, with trails winding through alpine valleys, lenga forests, and glacier-carved landscapes. Its two most famous trekking routes are the W Trek, a 4-5 day hut-to-hut or camping hike that covers the park’s highlights, and the O Circuit, a longer 7-10 day journey that loops around the entire Paine Massif, including remote backcountry and the dramatic John Gardner Pass. Both routes are well marked but demand a reasonable level of fitness and preparation, as hikers can expect strong winds, rapidly changing weather, and long distances. In addition to these classic treks, there are also shorter day hikes that provide easier access to some of the park’s iconic scenery.

Although it is possible to follow the well-marked trails through the park without assistance, the experience is greatly enhanced by joining a guided tour. The guide will point out and name flora and fauna along the way, as well as making side detours to points of interest that the casual traveler might miss. The biggest advantage is that all equipment, such as tents, sleeping bags, mattresses, crampons for walking on ice and luggage transfers, are all provided by the tour companies.

Most companies run longer tours into the park and these are generally between five and seven days duration. Many companies run comprehensive tours with local knowledgeable guides, many of them following the famous "W" trek, and including a cruise up the Serrano River or along one of the fjords.

Depending on the tour, accommodations are provided in tents (either in pay campsites with all facilities, including hot showers, or in the free Conaf campsites with pit latrines), in the park's refugios listed above, or in lodges or remote mountain inns.

Other activities offered on guided tours include fly-fishing, kayaking through the fjords and channels, or ice hiking.

Permits and reservations are required for trekking in the park: entry tickets must be purchased in advance, and since 2016 all campsites and refugios also require prior booking. Hikers should be well equipped with a proper backpack, layered clothing, waterproof gear, sturdy boots, and a sleeping bag, while trekking poles are highly recommended. As luggage transfers are generally unavailable except on guided tours, most visitors will need to carry all of their own equipment. The treks are not accessible for wheelchairs or baby carriages, as the trails are frequently steep, rocky, and muddy.

There are no restaurants on the trails themselves, but refugios (lodges) provide meals if booked in advance. Campsites may have small kiosks selling snacks and basic provisions, though prices are high. Independent hikers usually carry food and a small stove.

Refugios and campsites have potable water. On the trail, many streams and rivers are safe to drink from, but purification is recommended. Carrying a water bottle and refill system is sufficient; heavy water loads are not necessary.

Refugios (lodges): Offer dormitory beds, hot meals, and heated common rooms. Reservations required. Campsites: Both paid (with showers and toilets) and free CONAF sites (basic, pit toilets). All require reservations. Sleeping gear: Bring a warm sleeping bag and mat. Nights can be cold even in summer.

The weather is famously unpredictable. Expect rain, sun, and gale-force winds in the same day. See Torres del Paine National Park#Climate for more details.

Most hikers start in Puerto Natales, the nearest town (2 hr by bus). Buses run daily to park entrances such as Laguna Amarga (for Las Torres) and Pudeto (for the catamaran to Paine Grande). See Torres del Paine National Park#Get in for details.

Map of Hiking in Torres del Paine

A classic 4-6 day hut-to-hut or camping trek, shaped like the letter “W” as it visits three main valleys: Grey, Francés, and Torres. Trails are well-marked but often windy and exposed. This version starts from the Administration/Visitors Centre and exits at Laguna Amarga.

Distance

17.5 km

Duration

5-6 hr

Gentle warm-up across Patagonian steppe with wide views of the massif. The path is relatively flat until Lago Pehoé, though strong winds are common near the lakeshore. -51.09954-73.0895411 Campamento Las Carretas is a basic CONAF site, but most continue directly to -51.072-73.09482 Refugio Paine Grande, which has bunks, meals, and a campsite.

Distance

22 km

Duration

7-8 hr

Trail climbs steadily through lenga forest and along ridges with sweeping views back over Lago Pehoé. The approach to -50.95-73.251 Glacier Grey reveals icebergs floating in Lago Grey, with optional detour to the Mirador Las Guardas for a dramatic overlook. Many day-hike from Paine Grande, though staying at -51.0082-73.1763 Refugio Grey is possible if booked in advance.

Distance

7.6 km

Duration

2-3 hr

Short stage traversing the north shore of Lago Pehoé, with views of turquoise waters and the Cuernos del Paine. The trail is mostly level with some small ravines. -51.027182-73.0404264 Campamento Italiano is a free but basic CONAF site, often crowded; it serves as the main base for the Francés Valley side trip.

Distance

17 km

Duration

6-8 hr

Leave heavy packs at Italiano (if rangers allow) and head into -50.9966-73.05332 Valle Francés. The valley is dramatic, with hanging glaciers calving off Paine Grande, frequent avalanche sounds, and steep walls on both sides. The Mirador Francés offers fine views; continuing to Mirador Británico reveals one of the most celebrated panoramas in the park, with peaks encircling the valley. Return to Italiano to sleep.

Distance

18 km

Duration

6-8 hr

Long lakeside traverse beneath the Cuernos along Lago Nordenskjöld, with striking red and black banded rock. The trail undulates with occasional steep sections, often exposed to sun and wind. Accommodation options include -51.0239-72.98545 Refugio Los Cuernos (midway) or further east toward -50.97316-72.874986 Hotel Las Torres and nearby campsites.

Distance

18 km

Duration

7-9 hr

The iconic finale: a steady climb through lenga forest to -50.9575-72.91057 Refugio Chileno, then a steep final push via -50.96561-72.865988 Refugio Torres to the moraine lake at the base of the Torres del Paine. Sunrise here is legendary if the weather clears, with alpenglow turning the towers red. After visiting the viewpoint, descend to the Las Torres area and take the shuttle to Laguna Amarga for park exit.

A 7-10 day full circumnavigation of the Paine Massif, including the quieter northern valleys and the dramatic John Gardner Pass. Trails are less crowded north of Dickson and conditions more rugged. The outline below is an 8-day pacing, though some walkers add extra nights at Dickson or Grey.

Distance

13 km

Duration

4-5 hr

Rolling hills and open pampa make for a gentle warm-up stage. Guanacos are often spotted on the grassy slopes. The trail has little shade and can be windy in the afternoon. -50.865949-72.8932599 Campamento Seron is a grassy site with a small shop and meals available.

Distance

18 km

Duration

6-7 hr

A beautiful valley walk along the Río Paine, with gradual ascents and descents through open terrain. Snow-clad peaks of the massif appear ahead. The stage ends at -50.8795-73.074710 Refugio Vértice Dickson, beside a turquoise lake and with views of Dickson Glacier. A highlight campsite.

Distance

12 km

Duration

4-5 hr

The path climbs into dense lenga forest and becomes wilder and muddier. Rivers and boggy sections are crossed on wooden planks. Near camp a short detour leads to the viewpoint of Los Perros Glacier, spilling into a small lake. -50.931916-73.13494111 Campamento Los Perros is basic and remote, with no refugio, making it the most rugged overnight stop.

Distance

22 km

Duration

8-10 hr

The crux of the circuit: a long ascent on rocky and often snowy ground to -50.94112-73.184153 John Gardner Pass (1,200 m). The pass is frequently windy and cold, but the reward is a breathtaking view over the Southern Patagonian Icefield stretching to the horizon. The descent is steep through forest, with several spectacular suspension bridges above deep ravines. Strong knees are essential. Overnight at -51.0082-73.17612 Refugio Grey, though some hikers break the stage at Campamento Paso.

Distance

11 km

Duration

3-4 hr

A comparatively easy stage following the shoreline of Lago Grey. Constant glacier views, frequent sightings of icebergs, and open views back to Paine Grande. The route is popular with W-trekkers, so expect more crowds. Overnight at -51.072-73.094813 Refugio Paine Grande, the park’s largest lodge.

Distance

7.6 km

Duration

2-3 hr

Short and easy leg along Lago Pehoé, with the dark spires of the Cuernos towering above. Many walkers extend the day by hiking into the Valle Francés (adds 14-15 km, 6-8 hr). Campamento Italiano is free but basic and often full.

Distance

16-18 km

Duration

6-8 hr

A long traverse beneath the Cuernos, following the north shore of Lago Nordenskjöld. The path is exposed and undulating, with striking views of banded rock formations. Accommodation choices include -51.0239-72.985414 Refugio Los Cuernos, -51.027191-73.02527415 Campamento Francés, or pushing further to the Las Torres area for more services.

Distance

18 km

Duration

7-9 hr

The circuit concludes with the classic climb to Mirador Torres. A forested ascent leads to Campamento Chileno, then a steep rocky final push to the glacial lake at the base of the towers. Sunrise is especially famous if skies are clear. After the viewpoint, descend to the Las Torres area and take the shuttle to Laguna Amarga for park exit.

Torres del Paine offers a number of rewarding short hikes and excursions that don’t require committing to a multiday trek.

• Drop off at Administration, Mirador Condor, Salto Grande, Mirador Cuernos, Mirador del Nordenskjold. Catch the bus at Laguna Amarga.
• Drop off at Laguna Amarga, shuttle to Hosteria Las Torres, hike to Campamento Torres and Mirador Torres and back (10 km). Shuttle to Laguna Amarga.
• Drop off at Pudeto, by catamaran to Refugio Paine Grande, return by the same catamaran.
• Sightseeing tour by boat on Lago Grey to the Grey glacier.