Ichkabal Voyage Tips and guide

Ichkabal is one of the largest and oldest Mayan archaeological sites in the Yucatán peninsula of Mexico. The site is not well-known because it is deep in the jungle and was one of the "lost cities", undiscovered by modern archaeology until 1995. The site was explored, documented, and restored between 1995 and 2024 when INAH opened the site to tourists.

The city was designed with major structures in six different groups. The architecture reflects Peten style. The city is estimated to have had a peak population of about 100,000. It covered an area of 30 square kilometers &emdash; about 3 times larger than Chichen Itza (the most popular Mayan site in Mexico). The most significant structures date from 350 BC to 50 BC. The city was continuously occupied until the time of the Spanish conquest (early 16th century). Unlike most Mayan ruins, no stelae were found at Ichkaban so anthropologists will have to find other evidence before they can say who ruled the city and when. Their initial educated guess is that it was the original home of the Kaanu'l dynasty.

The site is connected to other Maya sites via sacbeob, the elevated paved "highways" of the Maya. One sacbe runs west for 16 km to the ruins of Kinichna and Dzibanche. Another sacbe runs east for 10 km to an archaeological site at Mario Ancona.

The city had a sophisticated water system with a large main reservoir that provided year-round supplies, as well as six seasonal reservoirs called aguadas.

The site became known to western archaeologists in 1994 when a local rancher named Alejandro Cano bumped into two INAH archaeologists who were in the area searching for a site they called Las Higueras. Investigations were launched in 1995 under the direction of INAH archaeologists Enrique Nalda Hernandez and Javier Lopez Camacho. A full-scale site survey took place in 2017, including LIDAR imaging. Investigations will continue for many decades to come, particularly as many mounds remain untouched.

Most of the pyramids, temples, and platforms that have been explored so far are arranged in six clusters, two of which are the primary centers of urban life here: the Main Plaza and the West Plaza.

The Main Plaza was the civic and ceremonial center. It is dominated by a huge plaza that covered 7 hectares (17 acres). The plaza is bordered by one of the aguadas, which is a rectangular reservoir measuring 80 meters by 60 meters and has embedded stone banks to control erosion.

On the other side of the aguada are two tiered temple platforms, referred to on site maps as Structure 6 and Structure 7. Both were built in the early Classic period (250 to 600 AD). Archaeologists discovered a large cache of artifacts at this temple, including jade jewelry, ceramics and other objects. The structures likely had houses or other buildings made of wood and palms that have long since rotted away or been destroyed by elements.

Structure 5 is on the east side of the main plaza. It is a 35 meter high structure with a basalt base and a winding staircase leading up to a large terrace. Structure 5 has two smaller temple platforms (identified as 5a and 5b).

Structure 5c is a large pyramid with a wide stairway leading to a large terrace. The pyramid appears to have been built in two phases, one incorporating softer rounded corners, and the second using sharp corners.

Structure 4 is one of the most imposing pyramids in the Maya world, rising to a height of 42 meters (similar in height to the highest structures at Coba and Calakmul). A central staircase of 90 steps leads to the central plaza and another 50 steps continue up to the highest terrace. (If you think you can handle all those stairs, no sweat, just remember that Mayan stairs are a lot taller than the steps used in modern architecture!)

Structure 1 dates from the Preclassic era (around 350 BC) and its a massive structure with a platform that's about 360 meters by 200 meters. On the platform is a 35-meter-high pyramid.

Five Brothers, formally identified as Structure 2, is a 5-meter high, 200-meter-long platform with 5 temples on it. One temple has been excavated and is open to visitors while the other 4 await their turn to be explored and documented.

Several other groups look like mounds, covered in vegetation. These are likely to be residences, but like much of the site, await their turn to be examined by archaeologists.

The site is deep within a dense jungle. There are no nearby settlements or towns. It is a 1-hour drive by car to the nearest outpost of modern civilization.

This is a tropical area with hot, humid conditions year round. Rains can occur at any time but are most common in the summer months, between June and October. Daytime high temperatures are typically between 30°C and 35°C with nighttime lows from 16°C to 20°C. Sunshine can be particularly fierce in the tropics and using sunscreen and appropriate clothing is advised.

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Map of Ichkabal

The nearest airport is Tulum International (TQO ^IATA), although Cancún International Airport (CUN ^IATA) may have a better selection of flights. From either airport, you can rent a car or use other ground transportation to Bacalar.

Local Mayan guides can be hired at the site entrance. Their fees and services are negotiable. Tips are always appreciated.

Use the Tren Maya to the Bacalar station. Ground transportation is available from the station to Ichkabal (and other nearby Maya sites).

From anywhere on the Costa Maya or Riviera Maya, use highway MEX-307 to the town of Bacalar. On the north side of Bacalar, turn west onto the road marked El Suspiro / Reforma. Drive west for 18 km where you will find a newly paved access park access road marked Ichkabal. The archaeological site is 21 km to the south. As of 2025, the parking lot is not complete, so parking is on the sides of the access road. Driving from Bacalar to Ichkabel will take about 1 hour.

INAH charges a site admission fee of M$100 per person (Sep 2025). An additional fee of M$50 is charged if you are carrying a video camera. The site entrance is open from 08:00 to 17:00 daily.

Mayan guides can be hired at the site entrance for reasonable rates starting at M$200. These guides are highly recommended because they have local knowledge of customs and site history that is far deeper than any guides (most of which don't know about Ichkabal, since the site has only been open since late 2024). A tip at the end of the tour is always appreciated.

• 18.684444-88.6686111 Ichkabal site.  

A site museum and gift shop are expected to open in late 2025.

The area is very primitive with wild jungle surrounding the site for 20 miles in any direction. Take precautions against Dehydration by bringing plenty of drinking water and wearing a hat and other protective clothing. Mosquitos are a serious problem in the jungle as they may carry dengue, malaria or other diseases. Protect yourself by using a repellant containing Deet. Be aware of poisonous plants and dangerous animals, particularly venomous snakes and spiders. You are unlikely to encounter these if you stay in the cleared areas with restored structures, but going off the paths to explore on your own could be risky. Exposed roots and vines present a constant tripping hazard so watch where you walk and wear sturdy boots.

• Kohunlich
• Dzibanche
• Chacchoben
• Xpujil