Jaffna District is the northernmost region of Sri Lanka, and one of the oldest inhabited places on the island. It is populated mainly by Tamil speaking people. The district encompasses Jaffna and its outlying towns, and the quirky and unique islands surrounding it. It is separated from India by the Palk Strait and the Bay of Bengal.
Understand
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The modern city of Jaffna was founded by the Portuguese in 1621, near Nallur, the capital of the Jaffna Kingdom which they defeated two years previously. Today, Nallur is a suburb of Jaffna, and the home of its most famous kovil (temple), the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil. Before the Sri Lankan Civil War (1983-2009) Jaffna was the second biggest city in Sri Lanka, but now it is only 12th, owing to the destruction, loss of life, and emigration that resulted from the conflict. The civil war also changed the demographic make-up of the city. Before the war, the population was evenly split between Tamils and Sinhalese, but the Sinhalese fled during the rise of the Tamil Tigers. They have not returned, making the city almost entirely Tamil.
This area receives relatively few tourists, making it a hidden gem, and has a very different atmosphere to the rest of Sri Lanka. The best time to visit is when the weather is cooler, from December to March. Outside of these months, the region is uncomfortably hot and sticky.
Get in
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By plane
[edit]Jaffna is connected by air to Colombo (both airports) and two cities in Tamil Nadu, India.
- 1 Jaffna International Airport (JAF IATA Formerly known as Palaly Airport. யாழ்ப்பாணம் சர்வதேச விமான நிலையம், பலாலி). Reopened in October 2019 after being closed due to the civil war. As of March 2025, there are two daily flights between Jaffna and Chennai (Alliance Air and IndiGo) and one daily flight to Tiruchirapalli (IndiGo). Two other airlines use light aircraft on their routes to both Colombo Ratmalana airport and the main Bandaranaike airport.
By bus
[edit]There are several private bus services operating from Colombo to Jaffna, costing around Rs 2700 (2025). The scheduled travel time is around 7 hours. Buses travel through the night, arriving in Jaffna around 04:00. Tickets can be booked on the Bus Seat website.
By ferry
[edit]Since 2023 the HSC Cheriyapani has connected the port of Kankesanthurai on Jaffna's northern coast (near the airport) with the town of Nagapattinam in Tamil Nadu. The ferry takes 4 hours and makes one return trip daily at a cost of INR 6500 + GST. Click the link below for details and how to book.
By train
[edit]Daily intercity trains connect Colombo with Jaffna, with the journey taking approximately eight hours. As of 2025 there are two services per day, one of which is an overnight train with 2nd and 3rd class "sleeperettes" (reclining seats) only. Check for the latest updates at Seat 61.
- 2 Jaffna railway station.
Get around
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Once in Jaffna, there are several modes of transport. The area is rather spread out, so having your own transport would be best.
By tuk-tuk
[edit]These three-wheelers are the quickest and probably the cheapest way to get around. A rule of thumb is Rs 100 per km.
By bus
[edit]Jaffna has a public bus system.
By minivan
[edit]There are private hire minivans, a good option if you need transportation for the whole day.
Other
[edit]The locals get around on cycles and mopeds. Some say cycling is not safe with the number of dogs on the street. Scooters can be rented for Rs 2000 and up per day, Rs 750 and up per day for a bicycle.
See
[edit]- 1 Nallur Kandaswamy temple. 07:30-18:15 daily, closed between 12:00-15:00. Beautiful and famous Hindu temple. Come at sunset when the orange coloured temple building is at its most vibrant. Free.
- 2 Thondaimanaru Selva Sannithi Temple (Selvach Sannithi Murugan Kovil).
- 3 Nagapoosani Temple (On Nainatheevu island).
- 4 Nagadeepa Purana Viharaya (On Nainatheevu island).
- 5 Sri Nagavihara International Buddhist Centre.
- 6 Palaly Raja Rajeswari Amman Kovil, Palaly East (near the airport).
- 7 Jaffna Library (யாழ் பொது நூலகம்), ☏ +94 212226028. 8:30-18:00 daily, closed Mondays & holidays. This magnificent library, built in 1933, once housed the largest collection in Asia, with over 97,000 books and rare documents. It was burnt in 1981 by Sinhalese police and paramilitaries during a pogrom against the minority Tamil population. As a precursor to the Sri Lankan Civil War, the burning of Jaffna Library remains a controversial and traumatic issue among many in Jaffna. Restored and reopened, it now houses a much smaller collection. It is airconditioned so is a great place to hide from the heat.
- 8 Kankesanthurai (KKS, Port Kankesan). A beachside suburb of Jaffna reachable by train or tuk-tuk. It has the port with the ferry to India, Sri Lanka's northernmost railway station, the Keerimalai springs and several temples.
- 9 Jaffna Fort. The Portuguese built this fort in the 17th century and it has been substantially modified since. Much of the fort is visible outside of the ticketed areas. At sunset, locals like to hang out here, enjoy the sunset, eat ice cream and relax. US$4.
- 10 Kachcheri Ruins (பழைய பூங்கா), Old Park. An interesting old ruin partly engulfed by trees. This British Governor's residence ("Kachcheri") from the 19th century was left in a state of ruin after the civil war, having been used by both Tamil Tiger and government forces.
Do
[edit]There isn't a lot to do in Jaffna unless you arrive at festival times. Nallur Kovil Thiruvizha (festival) is the biggest event in the Jaffna calendar when all the faithful come home to pray.
Festivals
[edit]- Nallur Kovil Thaer Thiruvizha (Chariot Festival): is one of the biggest festivals in Jaffna at the greatest temples in Sri Lanka. This is a feast for the senses while the faithful are praying and the chariot is being pulled through the temple grounds. This is the highlight of the months-long annual Nallur festival, in July and August. See here for more information.
- Thai-Pongal (harvest festival): every January 14th the harvest is celebrated with fireworks and celebrations all through the day and night. All temples hold special Pongal poojas where people make pongal in front of the temple.
- Theepavali: the festival of light.
- The Tamil/Sinhala new year is celebrated on the 14th of April.
The Islands
[edit]In the western part of Jaffna district, there are large, beautiful islands which are an adventure to get to. These include the islands of Nanaivatu, Velanai, Karaitivu, and the most famous, Delft Island ( Neduntheevu). These islands feature beaches, ruins, places of worship and low-key villages.
The island of Velanai is connected to the mainland by a long, scenic causeway. It has the fishing village of Kayts and Charty Beach. Karaitivu has the excellent Casuarina Beach, however there are no other tourist attractions.
Buy
[edit]Souvenirs are available from stalls at tourist sites and railway stations.
11 Jaffna Market (West of the bus stand). Open daily except Sundays. A colourful, bustling market
Eat
[edit]Jaffna has a unique cuisine, famous for its savory treats such as Wade (වඩේ- pronounced as wah-dei) and Dhal wade which is an appetiser in Indian Cuisine. Jaffna Kool (கூழ்) is very famous food in Jaffna; it is very spicy.
- 1 Akshathai/Nila (Akshathai), 60 Stanley Rd, ☏ +94 212219946. Delicious vegetarian restaurant serving good Tamil food. Left side of the restaurant is a lunch buffet, the right side ("Nila") is where tourists will be directed. The thaali (meal set) in particular is worth getting.
- 2 Rio Ice cream, ☏ +94 212 227 224. open daily from 09:00-22:00. Huge and very busy. If you don't want to wait, head to Lingan Ice Cream around the corner
- 3 Mangos, 129 Main St. 08:00-23:00 daily. Iconic Indian restaurant for dosas, uttapam, kotthu parotta, and lassis.
- 4 Malayan Cafe. 07:30-21:00 daily. Vegetarian brunch spot
- 5 Nallur Bhavan Vegetarian Restaurant, 250 Temple Rd. Try the chilli kotthu parotta. Cheap!
- 6 Rice & Spice, 321 Kasthuriyar Rd. 07:30-21:30 daily. Try the mutton biryani Rs 1000.
Drink
[edit]Do not drink tap water. The local brew is toddy, from the coconut or the palmyrah tree. Toddy from the palmyrah tree is sweeter. You can buy Nelli (Indian Gooseberry) cordial which has a bittersweet flavour.
This district has a crazy proliferation of fresh juice stalls, even by Sri Lankan standards! Try 7 Juice Spot. 08:30-20:30 daily.
There is very little nightlife in Jaffna. Your options are to buy some beers and drink them either at your accommodation, or outside the beer shop with a bunch of drunk old men (not recommended).
Sleep
[edit]- 1 Tilko City Hotel, No: 70/6, K.K.S. Rd, ☏ +94 217 200 707, [email protected]. Rooms with TV, safe, bathroom with hot and cold water. Has a bar, restaurant and gym. From USD 29 (2019).
- 2 Uthayan Guest House, 392/6, Navalar Rod (Close by Nallur Temple), ☏ +94 21 567 7608. USD25.
- 3 Nallur Residence, ☏ +94 77 244 6241. Tranquil environment with meals available and friendly hosts. Rs 3536.
- 4 Thambu Illam, 107 Brown Road, ☏ +94 76 455 0644. Another homestay place, with a pool and meals available. Rs 2978.
- 5 Wood Rest Guesthouse. A good cheap guest house 1km south of the railway station
Splurge
[edit]- 6 Jetwing Jaffna (ஜெட்விங் யாழ்ப்பாணம்), 37, Mahatma Gandhi Road, ☏ +94 21 2 215571. upscale hotel with rooftop bar and nice restaurant
- 7 The Margosa Villa, ☏ +94 21 2 240242. Small boutique hotel located midway between the airport and city centre.
Stay safe
[edit]Landmines from the civil war might still exist in some places. When walking along the beaches, beware of jellyfish which usually wash up on the beach at dawn. Do not go swimming beyond the floating styrofoam markers.
Connect
[edit]Go next
[edit]If you like Jaffna, you'll like Trincomalee too.