John Muir Trail Voyage Tips and guide

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The John Muir Trail (JMT) is a 221 mi (356 km) long-distance hiking trail in the Sierra Nevada of California. Named for naturalist John Muir, it runs from Yosemite Valley to the summit of Mount Whitney (14,505 ft), passing through Yosemite, Kings Canyon, and Sequoia National Parks; Devils Postpile; the Inyo and Sierra National Forests; and the John Muir Wilderness and Ansel Adams Wilderness. For about 160 mi (260 km), it coincides with the Pacific Crest Trail.

The John Muir Trail was the first major long-distance trail on the U.S. West Coast, built in the early 20th century with significant help from the Sierra Club and other volunteers. It was conceived to protect and showcase the High Sierra's alpine wilderness, which John Muir famously described as “the Range of Light.” The trail passes through glacier-carved valleys, granite domes, alpine meadows, and remote passes. Its creation helped drive national park conservation efforts and inspired generations of nature photographers, including Ansel Adams.

• When to go: Mid-July to early September is ideal. High passes are snow-free and weather is generally stable. Early season snow and fall storms can be problematic.
• Duration & distance: Plan 3-4 weeks for the full 211-mile trail, with 46,700 ft total ascent. Hikers average 12–14 mi/day, with some long climbs near passes.
• Fitness: Train with a loaded pack on steep terrain. Expect days with 5,000+ ft elevation gain. Most hike north-to-south to gain elevation gradually.
• Permits: A single Yosemite-issued wilderness permit covers the full hike (no separate Whitney permit needed). Apply early. Demand is high and most applicants are denied. Walk-in permits are limited.
• Gear: Be ready for sub-freezing nights. Bring sturdy boots, warm sleeping bag (20–30°F), rain gear, sun protection, and bear canister (required in many areas). Water is plentiful but must be treated.
• Resupply: Few easy resupply points. Common stops: Tuolumne Meadows (mi 23), Red’s Meadow (59), Vermilion Valley Resort (88), Muir Trail Ranch (110). Some require side trails. Most hikers mail food drops.

The JMT starts at Happy Isles in Yosemite Valley and ends at Whitney Portal near Lone Pine.

• North end (Yosemite): Fly into Fresno (FAT) or Merced, then take Amtrak to Merced and connect to the YARTS bus into Yosemite Valley. In the park, free shuttles run to Curry Village/Happy Isles. Backpacker parking is available behind Curry Village (fees may apply).
• South end (Whitney Portal): From Whitney Summit, descend 11 mi to Whitney Portal, then hitch or take Lone Pine Taxi to Lone Pine (12 mi away). Eastern Sierra Transit (EST) buses run north to Mammoth/Reno or south to Ridgecrest/Lancaster.
• Other options: Reno-Tahoe Airport offers convenient Eastside access with EST buses to Mammoth or Lee Vining. Mammoth (MMH) and Fresno (FAT) offer limited seasonal flights. One-way trips are typical, so plan your exit transport in advance.

Map of John Muir Trail

The John Muir Trail is most commonly hiked southbound, from Happy Isles in Yosemite Valley to Mt. Whitney. Navigation is straightforward, with clear signage at junctions and regular JMT markers. Water is abundant through most of the summer, especially in areas like Lyell Canyon and the many lakes and streams along the route. However, early-season snowmelt can make stream crossings hazardous, while some creeks may dry up later in summer. Carry extra water in those sections.

~24 mi

From 37.7317-119.5591 Happy Isles (4,000 ft), the trail begins a steady ascent out of Yosemite Valley via either the Mist Trail or the John Muir Trail, passing Vernal and Nevada Falls. Nevada Falls lies about 2.7 miles from the trailhead, with an elevation gain of roughly 1,000 ft. Beyond this point, the route reaches Little Yosemite Valley (approximately 6,200 ft), then climbs toward Sunrise Lakes and Cathedral Lakes.

The trail eventually descends into Tuolumne Meadows (8,600 ft), a broad high-country basin and a key resupply point with a store and post office. This is also a good place for a rest day. Campsites along this stretch include Sunset Camp, Little Yosemite, Sunrise Lakes Camp, Cathedral Lakes, and the backpacker campground at 37.877343-119.3328912 Tuolumne Meadows, which is equipped with bear boxes. Notable landmarks in the area include Half Dome, the peaks of Mt. Lyell and Mt. Dana visible from Tuolumne, and the granite domes of Gray, Matthes, and others.

~37 mi

Leaving Tuolumne, the trail follows the relatively flat Lyell Canyon before beginning a steady climb to 37.7603-119.2493 Donohue Pass (11,066 ft), which marks the former boundary of Yosemite National Park. Beyond the pass, you enter the Ansel Adams Wilderness (Inyo National Forest). The trail then descends to Thousand Island Lake (9,900 ft), known for its alpine islands and dramatic views of Banner Peak. From there it continues to Garnet Lake and climbs toward Mather Pass (12,100 ft), followed by Pinchot Pass (12,130 ft). A long descent leads into the Rae Lakes basin (10,000 ft), a scenic alpine area. After crossing Glen Pass (11,760 ft), the trail drops into LeConte Canyon.

Many hikers take an optional detour via Duck Pass to 37.610113-119.075494 Red's Meadow (7,200 ft) and Devil’s Postpile, which offers a store and resupply point. Although the official JMT bypasses this area, the 4-mile side trail is a common stop. Alternatively, hikers can continue directly toward Muir Trail Ranch. This segment covers approximately 50 to 55 miles. Campsites along the way include Island Pass, Mather Pass, the Rae Lakes area, Glen Pass, and Devil’s Postpile campgrounds.

~55 mi

From Red’s Meadow (or via its alternate trail connections), the John Muir Trail continues south, ascending toward Silver Pass (10,960 ft) near Thunderbolt Peak and following a chain of alpine lakes. Many hikers take the opportunity to restock at Vermilion Valley Resort (VVR, 8,500 ft) in the upper Golden Trout Creek area around mile 88. After VVR, the trail climbs over Selden Pass (10,910 ft), which separates the Golden Trout Creek and Evolution Creek basins. It then reaches Evolution Lake and Muir Pass (12,070 ft), where a stone A-frame shelter offers a notable landmark. From the pass, the trail descends into Bear Creek Valley, passing several lakes including Sky and Charlotte, as well as a junction leading to Tulainyo Lake.

The route continues down Bear Creek and arrives at 37.225802-118.8612425 Muir Trail Ranch (8,600 ft, mile 110), a privately owned resupply and drop-off point. Throughout this stretch, the dramatic High Sierra peaks of the Evolution Basin, such as Mt. Mendel and Mt. Lyell, form a spectacular backdrop.

~100 mi

From Muir Trail Ranch (mile 110), the trail climbs through Evolution Valley and over Muir Pass (12,070 ft), marked by a stone hut. It descends to LeConte Canyon, then climbs to the high basins around Palisade and Mather Pass (12,100 ft). The route continues south over Pinchot Pass (12,130 ft) and Glen Pass (11,926 ft) near Rae Lakes. After Vidette Meadow, the trail crosses Forester Pass (13,153 ft), the JMT’s highest point, and enters the Whitney Zone. The final section ascends to Trail Crest and the summit of 36.578611-118.2919446 Mt. Whitney (14,505 ft). Most hikers finish by descending 11 miles on the Whitney Trail to Whitney Portal for transportation.

• Permits & regulations: Carry a Yosemite-issued wilderness permit and ID at all times; no additional permits are needed if following the standard route. Bear-resistant canisters are mandatory in Yosemite and many high-altitude basins. Hanging food is prohibited. Follow Leave No Trace principles: pack out trash and bury human waste at least 100 ft from water.
• Altitude: Much of the trail exceeds 11,000 ft, with Mt. Whitney topping out at 14,505 ft. Altitude sickness (headache, nausea, fatigue) can occur above 8,000 ft. Ascend gradually, stay hydrated, and consider acclimatization days or medication like Diamox. Severe symptoms require immediate descent.
• Weather: Thunderstorms are common July–September. Plan to cross passes early and avoid ridges by noon. Always check forecasts (NPS alerts or mountain radio). Carry warm layers and rain gear, even on clear mornings weather changes fast.
• Wildlife: Black bears are common; use approved food storage. Never feed or approach animals. Rattlesnakes are rare in high elevations but possible lower down. Dogs are not permitted.
• Trail conditions: Expect steep, rocky terrain and stream crossings. Trekking poles are helpful. In early season (June), snowfields may linger. Microspikes or an ice axe may be needed.
• Emergencies: Cell service is minimal. A satellite messenger or PLB is strongly advised. Leave an itinerary with someone you trust. Always carry a headlamp, even on long summer days.

After completing the John Muir Trail, many hikers explore nearby attractions or continue their journey through California and beyond:

• Lone Pine and Alabama Hills: Just north of Whitney Portal, Lone Pine is a small mountain town offering food, lodging, and transportation. The nearby Alabama Hills Recreation Area (accessible by car via U.S. Route 395) features scenic trails among rounded granite boulders and natural arches, with dramatic views of Mount Whitney. Visit the Museum of Western Film History or take a short hike to Mobius Arch, Lathe Arch, and Movie Road.
• Kings Canyon National Park and Sequoia National Park: Head northwest to explore deep canyons, alpine lakes, and giant trees. In Kings Canyon, the popular Rae Lakes Loop is a multi-day backcountry trek. From Crescent Meadow in Sequoia, the High Sierra Trail leads across Kaweah Gap and eventually connects to Whitney Portal. Don’t miss the massive trees in the Giant Forest.
• Return to Yosemite National Park or visit Lake Tahoe: Many hikers return to Yosemite Valley for iconic trails like Half Dome and Upper Yosemite Falls. Alternatively, drive north to Lake Tahoe to hike the 165-mile Tahoe Rim Trail or continue on the Pacific Crest Trail beyond the Sierra Nevada.
• Death Valley National Park and Mojave National Preserve: For a stark contrast to the alpine scenery, head southeast into the desert. Death Valley is the hottest and driest place in North America, known for its salt flats and canyons. The Mojave offers volcanic craters, sand dunes, and Joshua tree forests.
• Continue on the Pacific Crest Trail: If you’re still eager to hike, the PCT continues north through California into Oregon and Washington, offering stunning wilderness areas like the Three Sisters Wilderness and Glacier Peak Wilderness.