Understand
[edit]
History
[edit]The city grew up in an obvious strategic position, at the confluence of the country's two main rivers. There's been settlement here for at least 2500 years but what we now call the Old Town dates from the 14th century when the castle was built. Kaunas prospered as part of the Hanseatic League into the 16th century. Medieval Lithuania had united with Poland to control a huge swathe of Europe, right down to the Black Sea, but Sweden and Russia grew and fought for regional control, and in the 17th and 18th centuries they attacked and wrecked Kaunas several times. Russia won the power struggle and took over Lithuania in 1795, while Poland was carved up between Russia, Prussia and Austria.
The Grand Army of Napoleon marched through Kaunas to occupy Moscow in 1812, and then retreated, and devastated the city both times. It had all been too easy to invade, and there were ominous local uprisings, so in the 19th century, Russia tightened its grip by building up the local garrison. This culminated in the colossal military complex of "Fortress Kaunas" encircling the city; but it proved of limited value in 20th-century warfare, and nowadays only the "Ninth Fort" (of ten) is standing.
Lithuania proclaimed its independence in 1918, the "First Republic". Vilnius had always been the chief city, but it was seized first by the Russian Bolsheviks and then by Poland; so instead Kaunas became the provisional capital. This greatly stimulated its urban and cultural development, with handsome buildings in neoclassical, functional and Art Deco design, dubbed "Little Paris". It was a diverse city: a quarter of the population were Jewish, engaged in commercial, artisan, professional life, and religious learning.
The First Republic was crushed in 1940 when the Soviet Union annexed Lithuania. But Germany invaded the Soviet Union in June 1941 and yet again the Russians fled, choosing not to make a stand so far from Moscow. The Germans set about liquidating the Jewish population: over 30,000 perished. The Red Army retook the Baltic states in 1944, and post-war Lithuania became part of the USSR. Not until 1990 was it again independent.
Visit Kaunas is the tourist information centre, at Laisvės al 36 in New Town, 100 m west of the prominent Church of St Michael. It's open M-F 09:00-18:00, Sa Su 10:00-15:00.
Climate
[edit]| Kaunas | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Climate chart (explanation) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The best time to visit Kaunas is May to August. Summers are cool - July is the warmest with an average of 16°C – and there are frequent showers.
Winter is icy, bitter cold, and the days are short. Nevertheless, it can be a good time to visit, because the city is well-adapted to the cold. The streets get snow-plowed and the transport keeps running. Museums and similar facilities remain open. Buildings are well-heated, with cloakrooms and other storage for all your clobber. You'll need ten mins to shuck off your layers of clothing every time you enter a building, and ten minutes to wrap up again before you venture out, but this is all part of the winter routine. It's companionable, everyone feels in league together against the winter, and it's as much a part of experiencing the country as church incense, vodka and potatoes. And outside you can lark about with sledges and snowmen. Choose carefully who you snowball – the locals have far greater skills than you have.
Get in
[edit]By plane
[edit]1 Kaunas International Airport (KUN IATA), Oro Uosto g 4 (14 km northeast of Kaunas on A6/E262). The main operator is Ryanair, with flights from Alicante, Belfast, Berlin, Bristol, Burgas, Brussels, Copenhagen, Cologne, Dublin, Edinburgh, Goteburg, Liverpool, Luton, Stansted, Madrid, Malaga, Milan Malpensa, Naples, Palma de Mallorca, Paphos, Rhodes, Rimini, Shannon, Stockholm, Warsaw and Zadar. Wizz Air fly from Paris Beauvais, Dortmund, Milan, Rome, Eindhoven, Luton, Barcelona, Malaga and Tel Aviv. The terminal has a restaurant, bars, duty-free shops, car rentals, travel agency, currency exchange and ATMs. The airport has three parking lots with 1000 short- and long-term spaces. 
Onward transport:
Bus 29 from outside Arrivals runs via Savanoriu Ave to the main railway and bus station, taking an hour. It runs daily once or twice an hour between 04:30 and 23:30, then the last bus heads into town at 01:00 but will wait for delayed flights. The fare is €1, pay the driver.
A taxi to the town centre might be €20.
Ollex is a direct bus from Kaunas airport to Vilnius (90 min, three per day, €15) and Klaipėda (2 hr 30 min, four per day, €22). The latter stops midway at Kryžkalnis highway interchange, for other local buses.
Vilnius Airport (VNO IATA) 100 km east has far more flights, from all the European capitals and many other cities. It has a direct Ollex bus to Kaunas city centre (Akropolis shopping centre), and is close to Vilnius rail and bus stations for other onward transport.
By road
[edit]The dual-carriageway motorways and main highways are in good condition and are kept open in winter. The motorway speed limit is 130 km/h, but 110 km/h in winter, and 100 km/h on the Vilnius-Kaunas sector.
The main international highway is Via Baltica E67 connecting Warsaw via Lithuania to Tallinn. It runs north from Augustow in Poland to become A5 at the border; from there it runs northeast past Marijampolė to Kaunas, continuing as A8 / A10 north to Riga then Tallinn.
Highway A1 / E85 runs west from Kaunas to Klaipėda on the coast, and east to Vilnius. From Vilnius A3 / E28 runs southeast into Belarus, towards Minsk.
Highway A6 / E262 runs northeast from Kaunas to Jonava, Ukmerge, Utena and Daugavpils in Latvia.
By train
[edit]
From Poland, a daily train runs from Krakow at 04:00 via Warsaw Centralna at 07:30 to reach the border around noon. Here you change onto the Lithuanian train for Kaunas at 16:30 and Vilnius at 17:30. (If you flew into Warsaw, you could take any train to Białystok then join the cross-border train at a more congenial 10:00 next morning.) The westbound train sets off from Vilnius at noon and Kaunas at 13:30.
From Vilnius trains run hourly 05:00-22:30, taking 90 min. The trains are usually Czech double-deckers.
From Klaipeda four services run daily, with a change at Šiauliai and a journey time of five hours.
2 Kaunas railway station (Kauno geležinkelio stotis) is at M K Čiurlionio g 16 in the southeast corner of the city. There are lockers next to the ticket office, a tourist office, an ATM and a small café. It's 2 km to Old Town, you can follow a pleasant footpath along the river bank.
About 500 m northeast of the station, a splendid old steam locomotive stands at the entrance to a 1.3 km railway tunnel. But the road along here (Tunelio gatve) is busy with traffic and it's taking you away from the other city sights; you can see it just fine on Google Street View.
By bus
[edit]International: Eurolines buses run from Riga in Latvia (4 per day, 4 hr), Tallinn in Estonia (2 per day, 11 hr), Minsk in Belarus (3 direct per day, 7 hr, or change in Vilnius), and Warsaw in Poland (2 per day, 7 hr). FlixBus has also buses from Warsaw and Berlin to Kaunas.
National: Between Kaunas and Vilnius the main bus line is Kautra, with departures every 15 min taking 90 min. Toks buses also run this line hourly. Between Kaunas and Klaipeda, various lines run hourly taking 3 hours - see the ticket website for timtables, fares and online tickets.
3 Kaunas bus station is in New Town, 300 m north of the railway station.
Get around
[edit]
By bus
[edit]Some 47 bus and 16 trolleybus routes criss-cross the city, running from 05:00 to 23:00. Buy tickets at newspaper kiosks or on board; a single (paper) ticket is €1 - validate pre-bought tickets on boarding. You can also buy e-tickets (swipe cards) for pay-as-you-go (€0.70 per journey), 3 days (€5.50), 7 days (€10), 1 month (€28 for M-F, €31 for 7-day use), 3 months, or a year. Buy or top up from kiosks. Ziogas is a mobile app for buying tickets.
See Kaunas Public Transport for fares, map and travel planner.
By taxi
[edit]The easiest way to book a taxi is with the eTAKSI app for smartphones, a service similar to Uber/Lyft.
Book taxis by phone, it's not usual to hail them on the street here. Best bet is 1424 Taxi (+370 611 11111).
By car
[edit]You really only need a car for outlying sites. All the major rental firms are represented at the airport and there's half-a-dozen downtown offices.
Parking is in three zones: red the most expensive, blue and green the least. Ticket machines have card readers, a dwindling few accept coins.
You may also pay by 1 or 2-hour card or by SMS to 1332 if you have a local mobile provider.
By bike
[edit]There are more than 50 km of cycleways in Kaunas.
Bikes can be hired from Dviratinis or Velomania.
See
[edit]
- City sightseeing tours are available, see Visit Kaunas offerings. They also tout a "Kaunastic" card but this is simply a gift card for retail outlets, it doesn't grant entry to the sights or rides on the buses.
Old Town
[edit]- 1 Kaunas Castle, Pilies g 17, ☏ +370 687 55263. Sept-May Tu-F 10:00-18:00, Sa 10:00-17:00; Jun-Aug Tu-Sa 10:00-18:00, Su 10:00-16:00. The castle was built mid-14th century at the confluence of the rivers Nemunas and Neris, and is the oldest building in Kaunas. Today the round tower houses an art gallery, and the castle hosts occasional festivals. The tip of the confluence is Santakos Park. Adult €4, conc €2, child free.
- 2 Church of St George, Papilio g 7. 24 hours. A wooden church was built outside the castle in 1471, then rebuilt in Gothic redbrick from 1492. It's been much bashed about over the years.
- 3 Rotušės aikštė or City Hall Square is the focus of Old Town, built 14th-17th century in a variety of styles. As well as City Hall it has a clutch of museums and old churches.
- Kaunas City Hall, Rotuses a 15. Tu-W 10:00-17:00, Th-Su 12:00-18:00. Built in renaissance style in the mid-16th century, when Kaunas was a flourishing city of merchants, and nowadays dubbed The White Swan. In 1836 it was reconstructed as a residence for Russian czars. The Wedding Hall (marriage registration office) was opened on the ground and first floors in 1973. The cellars house the Kaunas Ceramics museum' with hand-crafted crockery, tile stove ornaments, and roof tiles of impressive size The city history museum has of archaeological findings from the Old Town and surroundings of Kaunas. The exposition also reflects the lifestyle of the townsmen of the time. Adult €10, conc €5, child free.
- Museum of the History of Lithuanian Medicine and Pharmacy, Rotuses a 28, ☏ +370 37 201569. Tu-Sa 10:00-17:00. Houses a huge collection of skulls, herbs, medical items and other relics. Adult €2, child €1, tours in English €15.
- Church of Holy Trinity, Rotuses a 22. Built as a Bernardine convent church 1624-1634 in late Renaissance / Gothic style, it now serves the city's seminary.
- Maironis Museum of Lithuanian Literature, Rotuses a 13, ☏ +370 37 206842. Tu-F 09:00-17:00, Sa Su 10:00-17:00. This is within Siručiai Palace and came to be the residence of poet and priest Jonas Maironis. It has a huge collection of books, manuscripts, artworks, and memorial items.
- Church of St Francis Xavier, Rotuses a 8, ☏ +370 37 221661. This was built in rococo style from 1666 to 1720. The Jesuits had already established a school here, where poet Adam Mickiewicz was a teacher 1819 - 1823. The building was then transferred to the Orthodox church, and had various secular uses in Soviet times until 1989. Sacral music concerts are organised in the church.
- 4 Cathedral of Sts Peter & Paul, Vilniaus g 1, ☏ +370 37 324093. Daily 08:00-19:00. This is first documented in 1413, in the reign of Vytautas the Great, but construction dragged on to 1624, nicely in time to get smashed up by the Russians and Swedes. It's 84 m long by 34 m wide and mostly red-brick Gothic, but refurbishment added Renaissance and Baroque features. It was promoted to a cathedral in 1895: notable burials include bishop and author Motiejus Valančius (1801-1875), poet Jonas Mačiulis (1862-1932) and Cardinal Vincentas Sladkevičius (1920-2000). Free.
- Kaunas Picture Gallery, K Donelaicio g 16 (opposite cathedral), ☏ +370 675 13161. Tu, F-Su 10:00-18:00, W Th 11:00-19:00. This is a branch of the MK Čiurlionis National Art Museum in New Town. It houses 20th century Lithuanian and émigré art, and a collection of North American Indian art.
- Perkūnas House, Aleksoto g 6 (north side of Church of Vytautus), ☏ +370 641 44614. Th 15:00-18:00. A striking example of "flamboyant Gothic", from 1440 until 1532 this was the offices of the Hanseatic merchants, then became a Jesuit chapel. The Jesuits again own it and it houses a small museum about Adam Mickewicz. Perkūnas was a Baltic pagan god of thunder, and around 1900 an image said to be of Perkūnas was found within its walls, hence the present name.
- 5 Church of Vytautas the Great (Church of the Assumption of Holy Virgin Mary), Aleksoto g 3, ☏ +370 37 203854. 24 hours. Gothic redbrick church built in 1400 for the Franciscan monks. It's suffered repeatedly from river floods, occupying armies and religious upheavals, but since 1919 has been Roman Catholic.
- 6 Vytautas the Great Bridge connects the Old Town and Aleksotas district. The present bridge was built in 1930, wrecked in the war and rebuilt in 1948, with reconstruction in 2005. The previous bridge was a wooden affair, built in 1812 and used by Napoleon’s Army retreating from Russia. It was said in those days that it must be very long since it took 13 days to cross: the Old Town was part of Russia and used the Julian or Slavic calendar, whilst Aleksotas district on the south bank was in Poland and used the Gregorian or Catholic calendar. So you arrived 13 days after you set off.
- 7 Aleksotas Funicular, Amerikos Lietuvių g 6, ☏ +370 37 391086. Daily 07:00-12:00, 13:00-19:00. At the south end of Vytautas bridge is this 133 m funicular, built in 1935 to connect the Old Town with Aleksotas district up the hill. It runs every 10 minutes with a midday lunch break. Adult €1.
- 8 Evangelic Lutheran Church, Muitinės g 8, ☏ +370 670 60054. Small church at the north end of Vytautus bridge built in 1682-83 in Baroque style.
- Napoleon's House is next to the Lutheran Church on Muitines g 8. This 16th-century brick building is named for Napoleon Bonaparte, who stayed here in June 1812. Its eastern annexe has a beautiful staircase, an example of Fachverk, a German architectural style rare in Lithuania. But it's nowadays part of the University Faculty of Humanities and you can't routinely visit.
- 9 Benedictine Church of St Nicholas, Benediktiniu g 8, ☏ +370 37 202428. M-Sa 07:00-21:30, Su 08:30-21:30. The church is a fine 15th-century Gothic building.
- 10 Gemstones Museum, Kurpių g 13, ☏ +370 37 227 780. M-F 10:00-18:00, Sa 10:00-16:00. Small private museum with rare minerals and precious stones from around the world. Adult €2.
New Town
[edit]
- Laisvės alėja is the pedestrianised 2 km boulevard forming the spine of New Town. It's lined by linden trees, seating and flower beds, and dotted with shops, banks, supermarkets, restaurants, a cinema, casinos, nightclubs, museums, places to stay and a central post office. It's kept clean, and in winter free of snow, and is a great place to spend time. In the late morning and afternoon vendors stalls sell food, souvenirs and so on. The strip ends at the Church of St Michael the Archangel. In 2023 the New Town with its interwar architecture was added to the world heritage list.
- 11 Historical Presidential Palace, Vilniaus g 33, ☏ +370 37 201778. Tu W F–Su 10:00-17:00, Th 11:00-19:00. Lithuania was first independent from 1918 until 1940, when the Soviets crushed the "First Republic". This neo-baroque palace was home to its presidents. It houses furniture, artwork and other material from the period. Adult €5, conc €2.50.
- 12 Church of St Gertrude, Laisvės al 101B, ☏ +370 37 200258. Gothic redbrick church from around 1500.
- 13 Vytautas' Monument on Laisvės alėja opposite the Music Theatre was erected in 1930. Grand Duke Vytautus (1350-1430) has been lionised as a proto-hero of Lithuanian identity, reason enough for the Soviets to demolish the statue, but it was re-erected in 1990. In Vytautus' time the chief struggle was against the Teutonic Knights, which he variously placated, beat or fought for, but most of all serially ratted on. Another struggle was to to avoid being engulfed by Poland, and this was unresolved when he died at Trakai.
- Romas Kalanta (1953-1972) is commemorated by a memorial west side of the gardens fronting Vytautas' Monument. On this spot, Kalanta poured three litres of petrol over himself and self-immolated in protest against Soviet oppression, dying that night in hospital. This provoked widespread anti-Soviet riots and a dozen similar self-immolations, but the Soviets maintained their grip until the collapse of the USSR in 1989.
.jpg)
- 14 Choral Synagogue, E Ožeskienes g 13, ☏ +370 614 03100. Built in 1872 in reformist decorative style, though the façade looks neo-baroque. It remains in use, hours erratic, with a display of rabbis' paintings on the second floor.
- 15 Tadas Ivanauskas Zoological Museum, Laisvės al 106, ☏ +370 37 200292. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Old-style natural history museum with thousands of stuffed animals and skeletons. Adult €6, conc or child €3.
- 16 Church of St Michael the Archangel (Garrison Church; Soboras), Nepriklausomybės a 14, ☏ +370 37 226676. This beautiful domed building closes off the prospect down Laisvės Aleja. Opened in 1895, it was built in neo-Byzantine style for Russian soldiers based here, and to remind the townsfolk who was in charge. However the main reason to visit is the Catacombs (accessible M-F 10:00-14:00). You descend a spiral staircase into total darkness then feel your way through an underground obstacle course, eventually re-ascending a similar staircase into the light. It started out as an art installation but is now run by the Museum for the Blind, donations welcome. Not for the fainthearted, small children or anyone with difficulty moving around.
- Mykolas Žilinskas Picture Gallery, Nepriklausomybes a12 (south side of Church of St Michael). Closed. Closed for reconstruction, the re-opening date is not known.
- 17 Lithuanian Officers' Palace, A Mickevičiaus g 19, ☏ +370 37 209022. M-Th 08:00-17:00, F 08:00-16:00. Grandiose chunk of interbellum architecture, built at huge cost in 1937. The main façade is adorned by the granite sculpture Three Giants (Trys Milžinai) that became a symbol of the Club. The second floor is the piano nobile with the Grand Hall, Hall of Vytautas, Hall of Dukes and Hall of the President, festooned with chandeliers, paintings, frescoes, furniture, and stained glass. It's now an events venue with (it's come to this) a pizzeria.
- 18 Vytautas the Great War Museum, K Donelaicio g 64, ☏ +370 37 320765. Tu-Su 11:00-17:00. Display of Kaunas' turbulent times from prehistory to the present day, with an immense collection of weapons and armour. One poignant highlight is the remains of Lituanica, a modified Bellanca Pacemaker in which Darius and Girenas flew east across the Atlantic in 1933; they were 650 km short of Kaunas when they crashed. Adult €5, conc or child €2.50.
- Campanile west wing of the war museum was fitted with bells in 1937 and restored in 2006. It plays the Lithuanian wartime folk melody at noon, and there are carillon concerts on Saturday and Sunday at 16:00 in the adjacent gardens.
- Tomb of the Unknown Soldier opposite the museum is a curiously rough-hewn cairn, with the Eternal Flame flickering before it.
- 19 Bank of Lithuania, Maironio g 25, ☏ +370 800 50500. M-F 08:30-15:30. Grandiose neo-classical building of 1928. Primarily a commercial bank, it has a small exhibition of Lithuanian banknotes and coins of the First Republic, and occasionally hosts larger art installations.
- 20 M K Čiurlionis Museum of Art, V Putvinskio g 55. Tu, F-Su 10:00-18:00, W Th 11:00-19:00. The Art Deco main branch of the museum was built in the 1930s and is next to the war museum. It showcases Lithuania's cultural heritage and especially the works of M K Čiurlionis (1875–1911) himself, whose style ranged over symbolism, secessionism, abstractionism and romanticism. Adult €10, conc or child €5.
- Žaliakalnis Funicular is one of world's oldest, and looks it. Opened in 1931, it creaks and lumbers from Putvinskio g 200 m east of the Čiurlionis Museum, up 142 m to Žemaičių g next to the Church of the Resurrection. It runs M-F 07:00-19:00, Sa Su 09:00-19:00, and in 2024 the fare is €1.
- 21 Devils' Museum, V Putvinskio g 64, ☏ +370 37 221587. Tu-Su 11:00-17:00 (Th until 19:00). Antanas Žmuidzinavičius (1876-1966) was a distinguished landscape painter but now is better known for his huge collection of sculptures of devils. Some 3000 of them are here, from around the world but mainly central European. Adult €8.
.jpg)
- 22 Church of the Resurrection, Žemaičių g 31A, ☏ +370 37 229222. Daily 10:30-18:00. Striking modern RC church, completed in 1940 but suppressed by the authorities, so it was only repaired and consecrated in 2004. You can climb the stairs or take the lift to the rooftop terrace.
- Cathedral of the Annunciation is Orthodox, built in 1935. It's at Vytauto pr 38 just north of the bus station and open M-F 09:00-17:00, Sa Su 08:00-17:00.
- Holy Resurrection Church just behind it was built in 1862 in the Orthodox section of Ramybė cemetery and served as the cathedral until the new one was complete. It's seldom open.
- 23 Kaunas Mosque, Totoriu g 3. F 12:00-23:00, Sa-Th 13:30-23:00. Dinky little whitewashed brick mosque and minaret built in 1930. The city's first Muslims were Tatars in the 15th century, and this patch was their graveyard, hence the street name Totoriu. It was their quarter of Ramybė Park, which elsewhere interred Catholics, Lutherans and Orthodox. Eventually a wooden mosque, imam's house and school appeared on the site.
- 24 Nemunas Park is a river island, an extensive green space to escape the bustle of downtown. It's linked by five footbridges to city centre and by one across the main river channel to the south bank. At its east end is Žalgirio Arena, see below.
Further out
[edit]
- 25 House of Sugihara (Diplomats for Life), Vaizganto g 30, ☏ +370 37 332881. In 1940 thousands of Jews from Poland and Lithuania were desperate to get out, but they needed visas. The Dutch issued many visas for Curaçao and their Caribbean colonies, but getting there became much more difficult when Italy joined the Nazis and closed the Med. The main escape route was then across the USSR to the Pacific. In Kaunas the Japanese vice-consul Chiune Sugihara (1900-86) issued hundreds of Japanese transit visas, blithely disregarding orders to conduct all sorts of checks. He may have saved 6000 lives, as a whole family could travel on one visa; from Japan they moved on to North America and elsewhere. His mission ended when the embassy closed, Germany crushed Lithuania, and anyone who hadn't got out was exterminated. Sugihara spent his later years in obscurity in Japan; his Kaunas residence is now this museum. It's under renovation so for the time being it only accepts pre-arranged groups. Adult €6, child or conc €3.
- 26 Ažuolynas Park (meaning "oak wood") is an extensive green space reached by Bus #6, 10, 21 or 37 from Donelaičio g, or #38, 43 from Vytauto pr. At its east end is the zoo, and central is the "Stumbras" statue, the bison that gives its name to the local brewery. West side is the sports complex and monument named for Darius and Girenas - in 1933 they flew across the Atlantic but crashed and were killed in what is now Poland. Investigations showed they had enough fuel and the engine was running, so it was probably simply bad weather.
- 27 Lithuanian Zoo, Radvilėnų pl 21, ☏ +370 37 332540. Daily 10:00-20:00. Within Ąžuolynas Park, this was renovated in 2023 and now offers a better experience for animals and visitors. Adult €10, conc or child €5.
- 28 Museum of Aviation, Veiveriu g 132 (Bus #6 or minibus #51, 68, 105), ☏ +370 37 390357. M-Sa 9:00-17:00. Two km south on the former Darius & Girėnas Airport, which now only has light aviation. The indoor exhibits (such as the flight simulator) closed during covid and have yet to re-open. So you can only see the outdoor collection of vintage aircraft. Adult €2, child €1.
- 29 Kaunas Botanical Garden, Z E Zilibero g 6, ☏ +370 37 390033. Daily 09:00-21:00. Extensive gardens and greenhouses established in 1923 and managed by the university. Adult €6, conc or child €3.
- 30 Napoleon's Hill was Jiesia river hill-fort, but got its nickname after Napoleon watched from here in June 1812 as his Grand Army crossed the River Nemunas by temporary bridges. Bus #25 runs this way.
- 31 9th Fort Museum, Žemaičių pl 73 (5 km north of centre), ☏ +370 686 26243. Tu-Su 10:00-17:00. Kaunas Fortress was a military defensive complex encircling the city, with ten forts built by the Russians 1882-1915 to protect their empire from the growing power of Germany. But when World War I came, after 11 days of assault the forts surrendered, so the Fortress had impeded the enemy advance but proved far from impregnable. From 1920 much of it was demolished or turned over to other state use. The Ninth Fort was the best preserved and was put to horrific use during the Nazi occupation of 1941-44. You enter via the Exposition of Occupations which has the ticket office, and documents the wartime terrors, and the ensuing Soviet terror under Stalin. You then visit the 9th Fort and the 32m high memorial to the victims; the fort tunnels can only be seen by special tour. Adult €8, conc €4, child 0-6 free.
- 32 Pažaislis Monastery, T Masiulio g 31, ☏ +370 37 458868. Tu-F 10:00-17:00, Sa 10:00-15:30. Built from the 17th century as a Camaldolese monastery, this is a riot of Baroque thanks to its Italian architects and sculptors. During the 19th / 20th centuries the complex was variously a military stables, psychiatric hospital and art gallery but restored as a convent in the 1990s. The main sight is the Church of the Visitation. Adult €6, conc €3, child free.
- 33 Kaunas reservoir stretches back for 25 km: water level rose by 20 m when the Nemunas river was dammed in 1960. It drives Kaunas Hydroelectric Power Plant, and at the eastern upstream end is Kruonis Pumped Storage Plant, which pumps water to an upper storage lake using off-peak electricity then releases to boost the grid during peak demand.
- 34 LLB Museum, L Lekavičiaus g 2, Rumšiškės, ☏ +370 687 07137. Daily May-Sep 10:00-18:00, Oct-Apr 10:00-16:00. Skansen-type outdoor ethnography museum on lake shore, with traditional buildings brought from around the country. In winter their interiors are closed up but you can still stroll around the park. Dogs permitted on leash outdoors. Adult €10, conc or child €5.
Do
[edit]
Live arts
[edit]- 1 State Musical Theatre, Laisvės al 91, ☏ +370 37 200933. Variety of classical opera and operettas in their original language.
- Kaunas Chamber Theatre, Kestucio g 74A (east side of Musical Theatre), ☏ +370 612 62226. Small theatre founded in 1976.
- 2 National Kaunas Drama Theatre, Laisvės al 71, ☏ +370 37 224064. Mix of classical and contemporary drama.
- 3 Aura Dance Theatre, M Dauksos g 30A, ☏ +370 37 202062. Founded in 1980, they host a contemporary dance festival in autumn.
- 4 State Philharmonic Orchestra, Ožeškienės g 12, ☏ +370 37 200478. The concert hall is within the former Parliament House.
- 5 VMU Grand Hall is a 750-seater performance venue within Vytautas Magnus University at Daukanto g 28.
- National Puppet Theatre, Laisvės al 87A (opposite Kaunas City Hotel), ☏ +370 37 746753. Shows for all ages and a museum of puppets.
Cinema
[edit]- Cinamon multiplex is in Mega shopping centre, junction of A1 and A5 north edge of town.
- Forum multiplex is in Akropolis shopping centre near the railway station.
- Hexa, also within Akropolis, is a virtual realty tour.
- Romuva at Laisves al 54 shows non-mainstream films.
Sports
[edit]
- Football: the men's national soccer team plays home games at Darius and Girėnas Stadium, capacity 15,000, three km east of city centre. Kaunas has two clubs playing soccer in A Lyga, the country's top tier: FK Kauno Žalgiris and FC Hegelmann Litauen. The domestic playing season is March-Nov.
- 6 Žalgirio Arena, Karaliaus Mindaugo pr 50, ☏ +370 37 452459, [email protected]. The largest indoor arena in the Baltics, with a capacity of 15,500 for basketball and up to 20,000 for concerts. It hosts Žalgiris basketball club.
- 7 Dariaus and Girėno Sports Complex, Perkuno g 5 (Bus #6,10,21,37 (from Donelaicio g) or #38,43 (from Vytauto pr)), ☏ +370 37 200514. Large athletics stadium (capacity 10,000) plus indoor hall and sports science facilities.
- Golf: the nearest courses are nowadays around Vilnius, as Elnias GC has closed down.
- Žalgiris Sports Complex, Gravrogku g 4 (next to Molas shopping centre), ☏ +370 37 351616. M-F 08:00-22:00, Sa Su 08:00-20:00. Not to be confused with Žalgiris Arena, this hosts mixed sports and has 7 tennis courts, 4 of them indoor.
- 8 Kaunas Aeroclub, Karo Aviacijos g 28, ☏ +370 687 45132. Flight experiences with small planes or gliders at Darius and Girenas airfield. They no longer have skydiving here: that's moved out to Pociūnai 30 km south.
- Karts: racing and leisure karting can be found at Wolf-cart on Kaunakiemio north of the railway station, Baltic Karting on Minkovskių south of the river, Topkart on Pramonės in the east suburbs, and Kartlandas on Raudondvario west edge of the city.
- 9 Kaunas Yacht Club, R Kalantos g 124, ☏ +370 698 71786. Set on the shore of Kaunas Reservoir, they cater to water sports of all kinds.
- 10 Legionas Paintball Club, Alksnių g 6, ☏ +370 687 22333, [email protected]. M-Sa 11:00-18:00. Combat games on the lakeside site of the former 5th Fort, where you splatter your opponents with paint blobs or airsoft guns.
- 11 Grizliai Plius, Najuatriobiu (15 km north of city), ☏ +370 647 16101. Daily 09:00-22:00. Combat games such as paintball, airsoft and lasertag.
Beaches
[edit]
- 12 Panemunės Park Beach is on a loop of river west side of Panemunės Park. There's no nearby bridge from city centre, so either use Panemunės Bridge 2 km south or Three Virgins footbridge 2 km north (Trijų Mergelių Tiltas, foot of Gravrogku g).
- Kaunas Lake Beach is on Pažaislis peninsula 200 m west of the monastery, see above. Take trolleybus #9 or 12 (summer only).
- 13 Lampedžiai Lake Beach is 4 km west of city centre, take bus #48 from Kaunas castle or #9 from Silainiai district. The sand is coarse so you might want beach shoes. The lake is suitable for swimming.
Events
[edit]- Kaunas Jazz Fstival is in April.
- Birthday of Kaunas city is celebrated in late May.
- Operetta in Kaunas Castle is staged on various dates in June and July.
- Pažaislis Music festival is held June - Aug in the city and surrounding region.
- Aura is a modern dance festival in October.
Learn
[edit]- These are mostly geared to long-stay students but may offer short courses suitable for visitors.
- Vytautas Magnus University, founded in 1922, at K Donelaičio g 58.
- Kaunas University of Technology at K Donelaičio g 73.
- Lithuanian Academy of Physical Education at Sporto g 6.
- Kaunas University of Medicine at A Mickeviciaus g 9.
- Kaunas Art Institute at Muitines g 4.
Buy
[edit]
What to buy
[edit]- If you live outside the EU, check your own country's import regulations before taking home any food item.
- Šakotis is a "poundcake" grilled layer by layer. The name means "branched".
- Vodka (Degtiné) comes in a range of flavours. Try cherry, cranberry, lemon, blackcurrant, raspberry and of course classic. The pepper is an acquired taste.
- Flax (linas) products, linen is a traditional handicraft.
- Mead (midus) is made of vodka, herbs and honey. Not to be confused with medus, which is simply honey.
- Cottage cheese - lots of variations.
- Amber (gintaras) is a distinctive Baltic semi-precious stone.
- Linen or wooden dolls for children.
Where to buy
[edit]
- 1 Akropolis. Daily 10:00-21:00. Mall in a 4-storey building near the bus station. Lots of retailers, restaurants and cafés, food court, bowling alley, casino and multiplex cinema, plus a huge multi-story free parking lot.
- 2 Mega, Islandijos pl 32 (Bus #38 and #21 from city centre). Daily 08:00-00:00. A huge complex with shops, 4D multiscreen cinema, Q-zar laser space, a bowling and pool club, restaurants and a spectacular tropical aquarium. They feed the fish twice a day midweek, once at weekends.
- 3 Urmas, Pramonės pr 16 (Minibus #99 or trolleybuses #15,16). M-Sa 09:00-18:00, Su 09:00-15:00. In a converted warehouse with meat, fruit & vegetable and fish markets, surrounded by a 2500-place parking lot.
- 4 Molas, K Baršausko g 66A. Daily 08:00-22:00. Indoor mall with Maxima department store, around 50 groceries, bookstores, opticians, restaurants, pizzerias, banks, a bowling alley, snooker tables and swimming pool.
- 5 Hyper Maxima, Savanoriu pr 255. Daily 08:00-23:00. Restaurants and some 40 shops.
- 6 Savas, Savanoriu pr 346. Daily 08:00-22:00. Stores include Rimi Hypermarket, service center, coffee-house and pizzerias.
Eat
[edit]Lithuanian food isn't easy to find elsewhere in the world so this is a good place to try it. Plenty of other cuisines are available.
Budget
[edit]- Hesburger is a Finnish burger chain, with outlets at Vilniaus g 43, Laisvės al 48 (within Monk's Bunk), Karaliaus Mindaugo pr 49 (within Akropolis Centre), Savanorių pr 222B, Mega shopping mall, Pramones al 6A, and more further out. They're mostly open M-Sa 10:00-22:00, Su 12:00-22:00.
- Sushi Express is a Japanese fast food chain with half-a-dozen outlets. The most central is within Akropolis shopping centre near the bus station, open daily 10:00-21:00.
- 1 Radharanė, Laisvės al 40. Daily 11:00-21:00. Vegetarian Indian food at very reasonable prices.
- Spurginė, Laisvės al 84 (opposite Hotel Kaunas), ☏ +370 37 200355. M-Sa 08:30-20:00, Su 10:00-19:00. One of the few places in Kaunas still making the traditional Lithuanian doughnut, the spurga.
- 2 Arena Pizza, Savanorių pr 363, ☏ +370 37 408430. M-Th 11:00-00:00, F-Su 12:00-00:00. Offers a huge range of pizzas and side dishes at good prices.
- Pizza Express have a dozen outlets in Kaunas, mostly in the suburbs.
Mid-range
[edit]- Bernelių Užeiga, M Valančiaus g 9 (Facing Cathedral of Sts Peter & Paul), ☏ +370 614 05236. Su-Th 11:00-22:00, F Sa 11:00-00:00. Traditional Lithuanian fare, soup in bowls made of bread and home brewed beer. Cosy, atmospheric and central in Old Town. Another branch at K Donelaičio g 11.
- Kavos Kerai, Vilniaus g 60 (South side of former Presidential Palace), ☏ +370 687 71220. M-F 08:00-20:00, Sa Su 10:00-20:00. Pleasant place for coffee and cakes.
- Alkava is a confectionery chain serving patisserie and coffee. Outlets are at Mickevičiaus 40, Mindaugo 49, Savanorių 346 and Varnių 24.
- Mtevani is a Georgian restaurant at Laisvės al 56, open Su-Th 11:00-22:00, F Sa 11:00-00:00.
- 3 Miesto Sodas (City Garden), Laisvės al 93, ☏ +370 37 424424. Su-M 11:00-21:00, Tu-Th 11:00-22:00, F Sa 11:00-00:00. Good restaurant for European cuisine.
- 4 Moksha, Vasario 16-osios g 6, ☏ +370 676 71649. Tu-Th 11:00-15:00, F 11:00-20:00. Small cozy Indian cafe. Fresh food with vegan options, great service.
- 5 Bella Italia, S Daukanto g 14, ☏ +370 37 777444. Su-Th 11:00-23:00, F Sa 11:00-00:00. Trad Italian fare.
- Buon Giorno, S Daukanto g 14 (next to Bella Italia), ☏ +370 610 63777. Su-Th 11:00-23:00, F Sa 11:00-00:00. Pleasant New Town trattoria.
- 55°, Laisvės al 79 (within Hotel Kaunas, see Sleep). M-F 11:00-23:00, Sa Su 11:00-23:00. 55° refers to the proof spirit of samane - moonshine vodka. The restaurant walls illustrate the process, but it doesn't look like any illicit distilling is going on, as reviewers use terms like "quiet" and "good for kids". Good selection of local and European cuisine.
- CH Chocolaterie, Rotuses a 26 (next to Medical Museum on City Hall Square), ☏ +370 686 44994. M-Th 08:00-20:00, F-Su 09:00-21:00. Chocolate restaurant with marvelous snacks, coffee, and a beautiful atmosphere in the heart of Old Town.
- Pas Stanley, Laisvės al 90 (by Vytautus monument), ☏ +370 681 08820. M-Th 11:00-22:00, F Sa 11:00-02:00, Su 12:00-22:00. Good food, reasonable prices in a family-run restaurant with a 1960s atmosphere.
Splurge
[edit]- 6 Bokštas (Bajorkiemis City), Kestucio g 86, ☏ +370 614 01111. Su-Th 10:00-22:00, F Sa 11:00-00:00. "Bokštas" means tower, as its on the city wall near the Music Theatre. European cuisine.
- Medžiotojų užeiga (Hunter's Inn), Rotuses a 10 (facing City Hall), ☏ +370 687 54032. Daily 12:00-23:00. High quality game dishes in 4 sub-street halls, often booked out for events.
- 7 Avilys, Vilniaus g 34, ☏ +370 699 66239. Daily 12:00-00:00. A great place to get a beer, all home brewed. The restaurant serves beer-based dishes such as soups and desserts.
- Senieji rūsiai (Old Cellars) next to Avilys is now an events venue rather than a walk-in restaurant.
Drink
[edit].jpg)
- Beer is Alus in Lithuanian, think "ales". Popular local brands are Utenos, Švyturys and Horn.
- 1 rePUBlic No 1, Laisvės al 57, ☏ +370 614 43444, [email protected]. M-Th 16:00-01:00, F Sa 16:00-04:00, Su 14:00-01:00. Lively sports bar with over 20 varieties of beer on tap and more than 40 varieties of bottled beer, plus 30 whiskeys and various Lithuanian liquors.
- Džem'pub, Laisvės al 59 (5th floor, next to rePUBlic No 1), ☏ +370 657 45003. Tu-Sa 18:00-03:00. Bustling pub with live music.
- 2 Kauno Alus Brewery, Savanoriu al 7, ☏ +370 37 201838. M-F 09:00-18:00. Tours available. They also have a taproom at Laisvės al 21 in front of St Michael Cathedral.
- Kiemas is a beer garden at Petrausko g 33, west edge of Ąžuolynas Park near the sports complex. It's open Tu-Th 11:30-22:30, F 14:00-22:30.
- Genys Brewery is at Juozapavičiaus pr 7H by Panemunė Bridge, tours available.
- Distillery: Stumbras makes vodka, brandy and liqueurs - the name means bison. Tours can be arranged for groups of 10+ at the distillery at Būgos 7, 500 m north of the railway station, no walk-up visits.
Sleep
[edit].jpg)
Budget
[edit]- 1 The Monks' Bunk, Laisvės al 48, ☏ +370 620 99695. Clean, friendly hostel in New Town. No breakfast or meals included, but you can cook in a fully equipped kitchen. Bunk €30 ppn.
- Mr Jo's Hostel, Vytauto Pr 14, ☏ +370 669 56466. Cheap clean hostel midway between bus and railway stations, 200 m to either. No breakfast or meals included, but you can cook in the kitchen. Bunk €30 ppn.
- Baltosios Bures, R Kalantos g 124 (at Yacht Club, 6 km east of city), ☏ +370 687 86886, [email protected]. Cheap motel at Kaunas Yacht Club on the lakeshore. It has 35 double rooms with TV, Wi-Fi and showers. But no catering, nearby facilities or public transport, so come with supplies or eat en route. Double (room only) €50.
- 2 Kaunas City Hotel, Laisvės al 90, ☏ +370 37 220 220, [email protected]. Budget hotel with 44 large rooms, a cafe, grocery store, Wifi & 24-hour reception. Central New Town location. B&B double €70.
- 3 Apple Economy Hotel, M Valančiaus g 19, ☏ +370 698 03091, [email protected]. Basic hotel in Old Town with 14 double rooms, staff don't speak English. No lift to upper floors. No catering, head out to the many nearby cafes. Double (room only) €45.
- 4 Metropolis, S Daukanto g 21, ☏ +370 37 205992, [email protected]. Charming old building, a good budget option very central in New Town. 74 rooms all en suite with TV & Wifi. B&B double €80.
- 5 Kaunas Archdiocese Guesthouse (Villa Kaunensis), Rotuses ak 21, ☏ +370 616 39517. At the heart of the Old Town, the guesthouse has 21 clean modern room with Internet access. Double (room only) €50.
Mid-range
[edit]
- 6 Babilonas Hotel, Žalioji g 38A, ☏ +370 612 62601. Quiet hotel in Žaliakalnis district with 24 rooms, a conference hall and a restaurant. Cleaning erratic. B&B double €80.
- 7 Olympus Hotel (formerly Regina), Strazdo g 62, ☏ +370 37 262020. Small hotel in the quiet residential district of Vilijampole with 10 comfortable rooms. B&B double €80.
- Ibis Kaunas Centre, Vytauto pr 28 (south flank of bus station), ☏ +370 37 265600, [email protected]. Part of Accor chain, it's clean and well-run with 125 air-conditioned rooms, conference facilities and a restaurant. B&B double €80.
- Ibis Styles Kaunas Centre (formerly Magnus), Vytauto pr 25 (west side of bus station), ☏ +370 37 214750. Another Accor hotel opposite the bus station, clean and comfy, with parking. B&B double €90.
- 8 Pažaislis Park Hotel, T Masiulio g 18E (6 km east of centre), ☏ +370 614 63664. Pleasant quirky hotel with 10 rooms in Pažaislis entertainment & retail park near reservoir. The restaurant serves European, Chinese and Indian fare. B&B double €100.
Splurge
[edit]- 9 Hotel Kaunas, Laisvės al 79, ☏ +370 37 750850. Clean comfy place in New Town, 36 standard rooms, 40 de luxe and fitness centre. B&B double €100.
- 10 Victoria Hotel (formerly Europa Royale), Misko g 11, ☏ +370 37 407500. Good reviews for this 91-room hotel near Akropolis shopping mall with lots of shops and restaurants. Free parking. It's often booked out for conferences. B&B double €110.
- 11 Best Western Santakos Hotel, J Gruodžio g 21, ☏ +370 37 302702. Chain 4-star with 92 rooms (smoking permitted in some), gets mixed reviews. Free parking. Nightclub and restaurant Europa is next door. B&B double €110.
- 12 Best Baltic Hotel (formerly Daniela), A Mickevičiaus g 28, ☏ +370 37 321 505. Central hotel with 39 standard, 24 superior, 7 suites and 2 junior suites. Many found it tatty and grubby. B&B double €70.
- 13 Radisson Hotel (formerly Park Inn), K Donelaicio g 27, ☏ +370 37 306 100. Kaunas’ largest hotel, in New Town with 208 rooms. Gets good reviews for service and room comfort. Free Wifi, no pets. B&B double €105.
- 14 Daugirdas Hotel, T Daugirdo g 4, ☏ +370 686 12311, [email protected]. Very central in Old Town in a restored 16th-19th century building, 48 rooms. No hotel parking. B&B double €80.
- 15 Amberton Cozy Hotel, V Kuzmos g 8, ☏ +370 696 44044, [email protected]. Chain hotel with 28 rooms very central in Old Town. Four floors but no lifts, and top floor rooms are cramped by the pitch of the roof. Cleanliness variable, no reception so you need a code to get in. B&B double €90.
Stay safe
[edit]Usual precautions about traffic, safeguarding valuables and avoiding damnfool drunks.
The station area can be rough at night.
Connect
[edit]As of Oct 2024, Kaunas and its approach highways have 5G from all Lithuanian carriers.
Wifi is widely available in public places in the city.
Go next
[edit]- Vilnius is a must-see for its elegant old town. It can be done as a day-trip from Kaunas but deserves several days to explore.
- Birštonas is a spa resort 30 km south of Kaunas, set on a forested riverside.
- Zapyškis 17 km west has the Gothic St John Baptist Church, often used in summer for concerts and cultural events.
- Lokes peda or "Bear Foot" is an activity park 35 km northeast near Jonava.
- Druskininkai is a spa town 50 km south, near the border with Belarus.