The Kazakh Desert is the southernmost region of Kazakhstan, spanning the vast Qyzylqum and Aral Karakum deserts. It comprises the provinces of Kyzylorda, South Kazakhstan, and Zhambyl. This area is home to the lion's share of Kazakhstan's historical monuments, as well as the car-wreck-fascinating ecological disaster of the Aral Sea. You will also find here the main border crossings into nearby Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan, and Tashkent, Uzbekistan.
Cities, towns, settlements
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Map of Kazakh Desert
- 1 Aral — A struggling city, with a fishing economy that was dependent on a now disappearing sea.
- 2 Kentau — A medium-sized mining city, formerly a destination for Soviet exiles and place of great soviet architecture.
- 3 Kyzylorda — A major stop on the Silk Road, with plenty to see and do.
- 4 Sayram — A 3,000-year-old city, with Kazakhstan's oldest mosque and a very strong sense of Central Asian culture—there is a lot to see here.
- 5 Shieli — A small town midway between Shymkent and Kyzylorda, very popular for its fruits and vegetables such as huge watermelons and melons. Also, marjan kurus (diamond rice) is the highest quality rice grown in Shieli. The region is full of very kind, hospitable and nice people who will always provide you a warm welcome!
- 6 Shu — A relatively small town, and the administrative center of Zhambyl Province.
- 7 Shymkent — Kazakhstan's third largest city, an old market town located near Tashkent and some beautiful mountains; now booming with oil exploration.
- 8 Taraz — A 2,000-year-old city, rich in archaeological finds.
- 9 Turkestan — Another ancient city, long a liminal town between the Persian culture to the south and the Turkic nomadic culture to the north, now majority Uzbek and home to several important cultural-historical monuments.
Qazaly, Shardara, Jetisu, Saryagash and Lenger
Other destinations
[edit]- 1 Aksu-Zhabagly - The oldest nature reserve in Central Asia.
- 2 Aral Sea
- 3 Baikonur - Site of the spaceport. A closed city- permit strictly required- on loan to Russia.
- 4 Barsa-Kelmes Nature Reserve — A wildlife preserve on an island in the Aral Sea. Best place to get bubonic plague from abandoned soviet secret laboratories.
- 5 Otrar — An oasis surrounded by the ruins of the various castles and towns that once occupied this spot.
- 6 Sauran — An archaeological site with echoes of Middle Earth and Ozymandias, once a major Silk Road waypoint. 50 km north-west of Turkestan.
Understand
[edit]Get in
[edit]Shymkent International Airport (CIT IATA)
Get around
[edit]There is a good bus network both between and within cities. Expect to pay 40-70 tenge as a flat fare within a city, around 100-150 tenge from a city to any surrounding villages, and around 400-500 tenge per hour on intercity buses and marshrutkas. The roads are generally good quality, but streets in small towns can be shockingly poor past the point of recognition; best to park on the outskirts if you don't have a four-wheel drive.
Turkestan region
[edit]Architecture
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- 1 Otrar hillfort. Otrar was center of Otrar oasis with dozens of other smaller citadels, family castles and caravan-sarays on Silk-Road
- 2 Otrar museum (in Shiely on roundabout). .
- 3 Post Mongol Sauran ruin. Place where Sauran was rebuilt after Mongol invasion.
- 4 Pre Mongol Sauran ruin. Karatepe hillfort is a place where Sauran was before Mongol invasion
- 5 Sidak citadel (next to Shornak train station).
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- 6 Ancient city Asarchik ruin (Shanshar). This ancient city was next to Syrdarya once. It's now covered with sand dunes of Kyzylkum desert
- 7 Ancient city Sutkent ruin. These are actually two ancient cities. One was before Mongol invasion and other after. They are pretty close to each other. Latest city was huge at its peak. Outer city walls are almost 1 kilometer in diameter.
- 8 Kyryk-Kyz fortress. Kyryk-Kyz fortress was protecting Turkestan from invasions from the north nomads
- 9 Bala Kyryk-Kyz fortress. Bala Kyryk-Kyz is another fortress near Kyryk-Kyz fortress used for protection from north nomads
- 10 Nogay Ishana mosque in Sozak. Although this mosque was built in 1902, it is a nice blend between Saudi style and local style.
- 11 Akbura aulie sanctuary. Hidden in small valley place is a great escape from city noise. Great destination for birdwatchers. Water spring inside valley offers fresh water.
- 12 Arys station railway complex. I class railway station built in 1906 by Russian Empire.
Russian orthodox churches from Russian Empire times
[edit]This locations are definitely out of time and place also away from major routes. Lone reminders of long gone civilization. All churches are build in Russian Empire times before 1917.
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- 13 Church ruins in Deribisek village. One of the best ruins of Russian church from late 19th century in the area.
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- 14 Church in Birinshi Mamyr village. It is not a ruin but it is not functioning church either. Used as a culture club and storage in Soviet times, this building is still a good example of old architecture.
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- 15 All Saints church ruin in Kaskasu village. It is a great ruin built in Russian Revival style. Very easy to see on the way to Sayramsu gorge.
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- 16 Fully functioning old Church Koksayek village. Church from 1882 is still functioning
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- 17 Conservated church in Akbulak village. Used as a culture club in Soviet times, now protected by the roof. There is also an old school building ruin from late 19th century nearby. Definitely worth to check.
- 18 Conservated church in Karaspan village. Used as a culture club in Soviet times, now protected by the roof.
- 19 Repurposed old church in Shakpak Baba village. Used as a sports hall of nearby school but still retaining wall decorations.
Abandoned soviet cities
[edit]There are couple soviet established cities linked to ore mining declined after ore exhaustion.
- 20 Abandoned city of Bayzhansay. Bayzhansay was booming in WWII times and rapidly declined after ore resources depleted. Great scenery on the way to Bayzhansay also lots of abandoned mines and other infrastructure. There is even abandoned runway on the plateau above city.
- 21 Semiabandoned city Ashisay. Ashisay was also booming on WWII times and then rapidly declined after mine exhaustion. Some people are still living in Ashysay but they do cattle raising but not mining.
Nature
[edit]- 22 Aktas aulie water source. Consists of two separate water springs Ata-Bulak and Ana-Bulak (Granny spring and Granddaddy spring) in the middle of desert like mountains.
- 23 Akmechet cave. It is actually a grotto, but who cares when it is so humongous. Whole trees reside inside this cave.
- 24 Tuttybulak gorge and cave. A protected area, accessible on any car, road is somewhat maintained time after time. Couple kilometers in gorge there is a paleolithic cave. 500 tg national park fee.
- 25 Sayramsu valley. This place is nice, have road in mint condition and very popular hence crowded with locals. There is a space for picnic or good starting point to hike to Sayram peak, Sazanata petroglyphs or Sayramsu lakes. 500 tg national park fee.
- 26 Burguluk gorge. This spectacular gorge is narrow at some places. Sometimes like 1 meter narrow and you can touch both walls while walking. Rubber boots advised if you visiting before August, later water level is lower and one can jump on stones. There is a little waterfall in the gorge. 500 tg national park fee.
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- 27 Akkum waterfall. It is a great destination if you want to taste Karzhantau mountain range. Waterfall is located right where river leaves valley and one can see it only at spring because later river will dry out. Easy to access on a car. Then you may hike valley or traverse to the both adjacent valleys. One of them having a lake for your eyes pleasure.
- 28 Turbat waterfall. This waterfall is also located on the plain where river almost left mountains. Easy access on the car. Works in spring then dries out.
- 29 Susingen lake. Hidden behind Karzhantau mountain range lake Susingen is growing in popularity among hikers. It is usually accessible in May and June and disappears in July till next srping.
- 30 Kyzylkum desert meets waters of Shardara reservoir. Rare location where desert dunes touch water.
Hot springs and pools
[edit]There are hot pools in Saryagash city somewhere. Old free location was developed in expensive hotel. Also hot pool should be somewhere near Mankent or Aksu.
- 31 Arys sanatorium, ☏ +7 725 405 4154, +7 701 991 2221. Although it takes a bit of bureaucratic effort to admit oneself to Arys Sanatorium swimming in hot pool is great especially in chilly weather 5000 tg per person per day.
- 32 Shogirly hot pool. Hot pool build around artesian well offers great opportunities to relax 500 tg.
- 33 Artesian hot well in Akkum settlement. Hot artesian well right in the middle of village Akkum. There is no place to swim but one can get any amount of hot water for free.
Monumental art
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- 34 Soviet mosaic in Sholakkurgan. Located on a facade of soviet cinema Saryarka.
- 35 Smaller soviet mosaic in Sholakkurgan. Located across the street of cinema Saryarka and hidden behind new roof.
- 36 Soviet mosaic in Shaulder settlement. Located on facade of soviet building.
- 37 Modern mosaic in Shaulder settlement. Located across the main street from old mosaic.
Petroglyphs
[edit]- 38 Boralday petroglyphs. Located on top of hills with rocky outcrops.
- 39 Arpaosen petroglyphs. Located on south slopes of small dry valley.
- 40 Koybagar petroglyphs. Located on top of few hills in this valley.
- 41 Sazanata petroglyphs. Located on top of few rocky outcrops on old glacier moraine. 500 tg national park fee.
Other
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- 42 Huge explosion crater. It is not far from Shymkent city although is pretty hard to reach. Diameter is 200 meters and 20 meter deep. It took around 5 kiloton TNT to dig crater of this size. No radiation detected. In spring some wild ducks nurse their ducklings in water puddle inside crater.
- 43 Abandoned old railway tunnel. There are two railway tunnels in Kazakhstan and one of them is abandoned. This one is old from Russian Empire times when branch to Aulie-Ata (nowadays Taraz) was constructed.
- 44 Abandoned old railway Mashat overpass. It is a great example of early soviet bridge architecture. At first railroad weaved its way to the bottom of Mashsat gorge and back on top. Later in 1930s overpass was constructed and it is still there.
- 45 Old adit meeting natural cave. It planned to be simple exploration adit but geologists unexpectedly opened sealed natural cavity. While being opened for everyone quality of the cave deteorated but still it is a nice place to visit if you are into digging.
- 46 Ancient lapis lazuli mines. It is a great destination for hikers with underground cave obsession. Pay national park fee, park your car a bit further, then hike 400 meters elevation, then hike downhill 400 meters. It takes whole day to visit this mines. There is no straight way through river valley as it is occupied by border guard base, but they don't mind if you hike around.
Kyzylorda region
[edit]- 47 Sygnak ancient city ruins. Sygnak was a major city on Syrdarya since XIII century
- 48 Fort Raim. First Russian Empire outpost in the region.
- 49 Kyzylorda I class railway station comlex. Less what you would expect to find in a desert is a I class railway station from another civilization with many other old houses scattered around.
- 50 Shiely railway station comlex. Built in 1906 by Russian Empire this architectural ensemble still in good condition. Railway station is II class by Empire project. You can even check old steam locomotive depot.
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- 51 Kazaly railway station comlex. Built in 1906 by Russian Empire I class railway station is a luxury isle in the middle of desert.
- 52 Aral railway station comlex. Built in 1906 by Russian Empire II class railway station complex is still worth to see.
- 53 Terenosek railway station comlex. Built in 1906 by Russian Empire III class railway station is small but less than expected piece of art-nuveau architecture style in desert.
Petroglyphs
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- 54 Sauskandyk petroglyphs. Thousands of petroglyphs located on southern slopes of dry valley
Hot Springs
[edit]- 55 Akespe hot artesian well. It used to be right on lake shore but now hid in desert. Location is developed a bit in last years.
- 56 Kuandarya hot artesian well. Rustic hot artesian well in desert.
Taraz region
[edit]History
[edit]- 57 Old Taraz archaeological cite. Place where Taraz originated couple millennia ago. Right next to it Taraz museum located.
- 58 Akyrtas palace ruins. Built in XVIII century by the Arab army.
- 59 Citadel Ornek ruins. Was built in medieval times. Now in ruins.
- 60 Aktobe hillfort former Balasagyn ruins. Huge complex is better accessible when driving from Almaty to Taraz.
Old Russian Orthodox churches from Russian Empire times
[edit]- 61 Old Russian church in Merke. Built in Russian Empire times and still standing on busy crossroad in Merke.
Nature
[edit]- 62 Lake Koksay. Popular destination for hiking. 500 tg national park fee.
Do
[edit]Eat
[edit]Drink
[edit]Stay safe
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