Lamu is a town in Coastal Kenya. Its old town is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Lamu is vastly different from most cities in Kenya, most particularly due to the almost complete lack of motor vehicles and corresponding traffic. Culturally Lamu also differs from interior of the country as it has retained its historic character as the oldest continually inhabited town in the country and one of the most important Swahili settlements.
Understand
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Lamu is the main town on Lamu Island, which is in turn part of the Lamu Archipelago.
The Old Town is located on Lamu's North-Eastern shore. About 3 km South of the Old Town, at the Eastern end of Shela beach, you will find Shela village, which is a smaller and cleaner version of old town Lamu and prime territory for wazungu (foreigners... the plural of mzungu) who pack the village's cafes and restaurants. The Southern coast of Lamu is a 12 km long sand beach called Shela Beach.
Talk
[edit]Locals involved in the tourism industry speak English, however Swahili is the dominant language of the town. The local Bajuni dialect differs noticeably from standard Swahili, but all locals will understand and can speak the standard variety as well. Learning basic Swahili phrases and traditional Muslim greetings will help show respect and interest in the local culture.
Get in
[edit]By plane
[edit]Lamu town on Lamu island is most easily reached by air at Manda Airport, either directly from Nairobi (Jambojet and Fly 540 from Jomo Kenyatta airport; Safarilink and Air Kenya fly from Wilson Airport), Mombasa (Mombasa Safari Air), or Malindi (Jambojet and Fly 540). The airport is on Manda Island opposite the main village necessitating a five-minute boat ride. This short trip should not cost more than Ksh 200, while Shela is Ksh 1500 (1200 if you negotiate).
By bus
[edit]Buses run from Mombasa via Malindi. The trip from Mombasa to Lamu (or rather, to the port of Mokowe on the mainland) takes 5-7 hours depending on road conditions. Get a seat in the front of the bus (book in advance) to get a pleasant trip. Several bus companies operate the route but few are express (no unnecessary stops). Two express buses are Tawakal and Najaah.
To get to Lamu from Mokowe you have three ferry options (prices as of 2025):
- A slow and crowded public boat for Ksh 100-200 per person (this can take hours as they wait for the boat to fill up and then get underway at something like the pace of seaweed)
- A shared speed boat for Ksh 300 ped person, which takes about 15 minutes once it fills up
- A private speed boat for Ksh 1000 (also 15 minutes)
All options will take you to Lamu Town. You can usually negotiate to be taken to Shela if this is your final destination.
If you are a mzungu (foreigner) you will be mobbed by "beach boys" as soon as you arrive in Mokowe (in reality they are "boat boys" but the coastal Kenya "beach boy" moniker sticks). Your job is to figure out which beach boy will lead you to which type of boat, whatever your preference. Asking them which boat is the fastest is usually useless, because each beach boy's boat is always the fastest and their competitors' the slowest, so you are better off discerning by the prices they quote.
By matatu
[edit]Matatus (crowded shared taxis) run between Minjila and Mokowe, the port from which you can catch a ferry to Lamu island (see the By bus section above). If you find yourself in a city that is not served by a bus route to Lamu, then try to find transportation to Minjila. In Minjila the matatus park at the intersection with the road to Lamu. The journey takes about 2 hours and will cost between Ksh 500-1000 (2025), depending on the mood of your driver and your mzunguness. For example, from Garissa you can take a Mombasa-bound bus to Minjila, then a matatu to Mokowe, and then one of the ferry options to Lamu town.
By car
[edit]It's also possible but expensive to hire a car from Mombasa or Malindi. The road is almost entirely paved as of 2025, so the journey is much smoother than it used to be.
Get around
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The main forms of transport are boats and boda-boda (motorcycle taxis). The boda-boda can take you between Shela and Lamu if you want to avoid the 45-minute walk in the heat. They cost Ksh 100-150 during low tide, and Ksh 250-300 during high tide (2025). If you ride with two passengers you can get a little discount.
Lighting of the narrow streets at night is minimal. A flashlight is a recommended accessory for walking around at night. If you don't bring one with you, many of the tiny shops sell cheap lighters that come with small built in LED flashlights.
Donkeys create an unfortunate mess on the main streets as they are the primary form of heavy transport on the island and are allowed to relieve themselves wherever they want. As such be cautious about where you are walking as you may accidentally step in something you wish you hadn't.
See
[edit]The main attraction is the old town (a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001) with its winding streets and traditional houses.
- 1 Lamu Fort, Kenyatta Rd. Constructed between 1813 and 1821 by the sultans of Pate Island, with Omani assistance. It was used as a military fortress until 1910 when the British colonial government reorganized it as a prison. It remained a prison until 1984 when it was restored and reorganized into a library and a museum of environmental conservation.
- 2 Lamu Museum, Kenyatta Rd. Built in 1891, the Lamu Museum was the former residence of the British Governors during the colonial era. Here, you will experience and learn about the rich Swahili culture that is ever so evident in Lamu Town.
- 3 Takwa Ruins (the south side of Manda Island). Takwa was founded around 1500 and probably abandoned around 1700. Twice a year the people of Shela come to the Pillar Tomb in Takwa to pray for rain. Only during high tide the ruins can be reached by boat trips from Shela at around KSh 5000 per boat (up to 4 people) Ksh 500.
- 4 Masjid Riyadha (Riyadha Mosque), Riyadha.
Do
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- Dhow sailing. You can explore the Lamu archipelago by dhow, a traditional Arab sailing vessel with one or more lateen sails. Dhow trips are relatively inexpensive and you can go as far as Manda Island, Takwa Ruins or Matondoni. Kiwayu is the most pristine of the islands and it is in a biosphere reserve. Prices start at Ksh 3000 for a 2-hour sunset trip with no food, and increases from there.
- Kite surfing. Lamu is a hotspot for kite surfers
- Wind surfing. There is a shed next to Peponi Hotel where an instructor will teach you for Ksh 3000 per hour.
Beaches
[edit]On Lamu Island:
- 1 Shela Beach. On the south end of the Lamu island is a beautiful stretch of white sand and tiny broken sea shells. The walk from main Lamu town is only about a mile and a half and well worth it due to the locals you meet on the way. Watch for the young boys selling homemade samosas on the beach. They are delicious!
- 2 Kipungani Beach. Lonely secluded beach on Lamu, which is accessible by boat or by a longer beach walk.
On Manda Island there are interesting but difficult to reach beaches:
- 3 Manda Beach. Long, wide and quiet white sand beach. Ideal for walking, but also kitesurfing, snorkelling and other water sports offered. Popular for watching the sunset.
- 4 Takwa Beach. Long, lonely sandy beach on the island of Manda with the idyllic dune landscape.
- 5 Manda Bay. Very nice and lonely beach with white sand, good for snorkelling
- 6 Manda Toto. Small uninhabited island with lonely dream beaches, very good for snorkelling. Take along provisions and water. Arrival from Lamu by private chartered boat, approx. 30 min. At low tide you can cross over from Manda Island.
Buy
[edit]Galleries, crafts stores and souvenir stands line Kenyatta Road, which is one street back from the seafront.
- 1 Baraka Gallery. Includes a collection of West African art.
- 2 Phoenix Studio. Showcases works by local artists.
Eat
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The seafront restaurants in Lamu Town offer excellent seafood at reasonable prices. Delve further back from the dock for more traditional Swahili fare. Traditionally, the food is eaten with your fingers. Sometimes it is good to bring your own utensils, otherwise you will find yourself trying to eat oil-soaked rice with your fingers - not the easiest task. All better restaurants provide cutlery, if you want. In the streets around the covered market you will find many stalls with cheap and delicious street food. The tourist oriented restaurants in Shela tend to be more expensive as there is less competition.
If an establishment does not have a written menu, always ask the prices before you order. A common scam in Lamu is for a beach boy to lead a tourist into a menuless establishment, and then the tourist finding that the final bill for rather mediocre food comes to thousands of shillings. This is especially important if a seemingly-friendly local has guided you to a restaurant out of the kindness of their heart; they will get a kickback from the restaurant following the completion of the scam.
Budget
[edit]- 1 Forodhani Amu (Lamu Shawarma King). Great value local joint. Serves chicken biryani as well as small shawarma wraps (in case you need your kebab fix) and fries. Ksh 350 for the biryani; Ksh 100 per shwarma wrap; Ksh 150 fries.
- 2 Rangaleni Cafe. The best kept secret on Lamu Island. A truly local Swahili spot. Try the meat stew – meat so tender it breaks apart on your spoon. Strangely it's in Shela along with all the upmarket tourist joints. Ksh 300-400 mains.
Mid-range
[edit]- 3 Sailors Joint. Try the curry fish! Ksh 500-1500 mains.
- 4 The Seafront Cafe, Corniche Path, ☏ +254 728 711832. Try the garlic crab or crab soup.
Splurge
[edit]- 5 Peponi Hotel Restaurant (in Shela Village), ☏ +254 42 633421.
Drink
[edit]Don't expect party central in Lamu – this is a majority Muslim island – however there are plenty enough places to grab a drink. Alcohol is pricier than what you'd find on the mainland.
Tourist bars
[edit]- 1 Petleys. Meet up and drink beer with fellow travellers.
- 2 Lamu Palace hotel. You can also enjoy a Tusker at the Lamu Palace hotel, but this is more expensive than Petley's, and very quiet, but OK if you want to hear the waves crash against the sea wall and read a book.
- 3 Floating Bar. Very busy bar on Friday and Saturday evenings. Floating between Manda and Lamu islands. They have an alcohol license.
Local bars
[edit]Locals party in a nearby village called Mararani. Here the drinks will be cheaper, the music louder, and you can try the local specialty mnazi, a coconut wine (start small... it is strong). To get to Mararani, the easiest route is to ask a boda-boda driver to take you (although chances are they will want to drink with you, and you're paying), or you can walk south from Old Town Lamu along the sea wall until you reach 1 the path to Mararani, then follow the motorcycle tracks through the branching paths until you reach a big sandy area, and then follow the sound of the music.
- 4 Mararaha Lounge (take the south path from the sandy area, look for a tall building to your right; the entrance is somewhat hidden but you'll find it).
- 5 Kelly's Village Expo (take the west path from the sandy area and then hew right once you reach the center of the village).
Liquor stores
[edit]- 6 Liquor store (just north of Lamu Palace Hotel). Has a limited selection.
Sleep
[edit]In order from least to most peaceful, you can book hotels in Lamu city, Shela village, or the beach in Kipungani at the eastern end of the island. Kipungani is quite remote, but very romantic.
For budget travellers and backpackers: There is no budget accommodation on Lamu Island. It is simply not that sort of place. There is no backpacker scene. There are no hostels. As of 2025, expect to pay Ksh 3500 per night at a minimum, although you can often bargain this down to Ksh 2500 (or less) if you are good at negotiating (or if you arrive during the low season). In general, you get better prices in Lamu town as opposed to other areas, and the further back from the sea the stronger your negotiating power.
If your hotel is off the seafront you will likely need (or end up with) a beach boy to guide you. If he doesn't get a kickback from the hotel then he will be pitching you all sorts of tours. Do with this as you will; once you enter the hotel he will forget about you until he inevitably bumps into you on the street to start the process over again.
Lamu town
[edit]There are many hotels along the seafront. They have a nice view, but the noise level can be surprisingly high (from motorbikes and boats). Inside of the old town, there is no noise from vehicles, but everyday at 5AM, you might notice there's a mosque next door.
- 1 New Mahrus Hotel (facing the central square of Lamu, though the entrance is in the narrow alleyway that runs in parallel to the coast). A well-established budget hotel with a rooftop restaurant. Rooms without bathroom are cheaper.
- 2 The Red Pepper House.
- 3 Jambo House. Owned by a German, this was once the budget go-to in Lamu, but has become so popular that it is now somewhat overpriced for what you get. But, it is popular for a reason. Book ahead because it is often full. Rooms start at Ksh 3500 for singles (non-negotiable, usually).
- 4 Jamala Guesthouse. Spacious rooms at a decent price. Ksh 3500 (negotiable).
- 5 Jannat House. Nice pool, wifi and bar. Ksh 3500 (negotiable).
Shela
[edit]- 6 Kijani Hotel, ☏ +254 20 2435700.
- 7 Peponi Hotel, ☏ +254 42 4633421.
- 8 Shella Bahari Guest House, ☏ +254 42 4632046.
- 9 Jua House. B&B in Shela.
Kipungani
[edit]Stay safe
[edit]Lamu has had a poor safety reputation over the years due to the threat of the al-Shabaab terrorist organisation based in Somalia. This reputation is somewhat unfair. Lamu Island and Lamu town itself has never been attacked; rather the terrorists tend to attack the villages in the eponymous Lamu County (although sometimes they simply emerge out of the forest to give impromptu sermons to the villagers) and the terms get conflated by the media. For all intents and purposes, Lamu Island is safe from terrorism.
The road between Mombasa and Lamu has had a reputation that is more deserving of the unsafe label; however, the Kenyan government has invested heavily in protecting the road – you will see Kenya Defense Force soldiers and vehicles at varied intervals along the highway – and is considered secure as of 2025.
Locals, and in particular beach boys (the local touts), will insist repeatedly that Lamu is "very safe" when it comes to tourist crimes, and, for the most part, they're right. Even at night you can walk the island freely. However, beware that these same beach boys are prone to scamming unsuspecting tourists, or at the very least charging tourists outrageous "mzungu prices" for basic services. For example, see the restaurant scam in the Eat section. Be on your guard, and see the Common scams article for more information.
Go next
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