Understand
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This hike is one of the top trails in the world. It is very diverse and leads through various landscapes that change in type and color. Green moss-covered lava mountains, glaciers, waterfalls, rivers, and steaming hot springs accompany the hiker during their tour. Only trees are absent here, except for dwarf birch forests in Þórsmörk.
The tour is about 51 km long and takes around 4 days. Only parts of it are uphill. The trek is not particularly difficult and suitable for beginners with endurance. You can camp or stay in huts (fee up to 7,500 kr). A reservation is essential. The huts have a kitchen with cooking utensils, but food must be brought by the hiker.
Signposting
[edit]The trail is very well marked, getting lost is hardly possible.
Prepare
[edit]It's best to stock up on supplies beforehand. There is only a small shop with a very limited selection in Landmannalaugar and at the end of the hike in Þórsmörk. Water can be taken from streams.
Get in
[edit]From Reykjavík, a bus departs in the morning to Landmannalaugar (approx. 3 hr, in high summer possibly reserve in advance).
Walk
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Landmannalaugar - Hrafntinnusker
[edit]Approx. 6 hr walking time, 11 km
The route leads through the lava field Laugahraun. From there up the slopes of Brennisteinsalda; a detour to the summit is possible. The view offers an incredible spectrum of colors. After 3 to 4 hours you reach Stórihver, a hot spring and actually the only green spot far and wide. Most of the rest of the trail to the hut is usually covered in snow. The chance of fog is high. Although the trail is well marked, caution is necessary.
Upon arriving at Hrafntinnusker Hut, you should definitely take a walk to the ice caves (approx. 1.5 km). However, entering can be life-threatening as the glacier is constantly moving.
Hrafntinnusker - Álftavatn
[edit]Approx. 5 hr walking time, 11 km
The first part of the trail leads through a valley with some small gorges. Caution is advised as they may be covered with snow. If visibility is good, a detour to the summit of Háskerðingur (1281 m) is worthwhile. Now you leave the colourful rhyolite mountains behind and enter a darker area of mountain and glacier landscape. Vegetation increases significantly. The path down into Jökultungur is quite steep, but then you reach an oasis on the bank of the Grashagakvísl river, a spot inviting you to rest. From there, the trail to the two huts at Lake Álftavatn is almost level.
Álftavatn - Botnar
[edit]Approx. 7 hr walking time, 16 km
From here, the trail goes over the ridge Brattháls into the Hvanngil Gorge, and further wading across the Bratthálskvísl river. Then comes the Hvanngil Hut. A short distance further comes the Kaldaklofskvísl with a bridge. Less than a kilometer later, the next river must be forded. After about 4 km, you reach the Nyrðri Emstruá, but this time there is a bridge to cross. It won't take much longer and the stage is over. A nice evening walk is to the Markarfljótsgljúfur Canyon.
Botnar - Þórsmörk
[edit]Approx. 7 hr walking time, 13 km
Now you must go around the Syðri-Emstruá gorge and then descend a steep path to the bridge. Then continue through Almenningar and ford the Þröngá river. The landscape and vegetation noticeably change to green again when arriving in Þórsmörk.
There are two huts in Þórsmörk:
Extension
[edit]It's worthwhile to continue hiking over the Fimmvörðuháls to Skógar. However, in bad weather this hike is not recommended. In my opinion, special sure-footedness is not required in good weather; it starts with a bit of ridge walking, and at one point goes across a snowfield of about 200 m — but neither is a real problem.
You can complete this trek in a day if you start by 08:00 at the latest.
In Skógar there was no evening connection bus; hitchhiking is conditionally possible (success after 12 cars in 1.5 hr). There is a campground, which was already closed in September. Wild camping somewhere should not be a problem.
Þórsmörk - Fimmvörðuháls
[edit]Approx. 5 hr walking time, 12 km
Fimmvörðuháls - Skógar
[edit]Approx. 5 hr walking time, 12 km
Towards 1 Skógar.