Machilipatnam Voyage Tips and guide

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Machilipatnam, also known as Masulipatnam or Bandar or Masula (in short), is a city on the southeastern or Coromandel Coast of India. Situated on one of the mouths of the river Krishna at the Bay of Bengal, Machilipatnam is the administrative center of Krishna District in the state of Andhra Pradesh. It was a 17th century port for French, British and Dutch trade. It is a small fishing town; has a carpet-weaving industry; other products include rice, oilseed, and scientific instruments. The town is a railway terminus and an educational center. Masulipatam is a station of the Church Missionary Society.

Machilipatnam is known for its Kalamkari textiles and paintings created using vegetable dyes. As a kalam (pen) is used in the technique of painting, it was called "Kalamkari Painting". During the 17th century, western traders were attracted by this art.

It is believed that Machlipatnam derived its name owing to the construction of a gateway to the town decorated with eyes of a fish (also called Machili in Hindi).

Machilipatnam was founded in the 14th century by the trading Arabs who found their way from the red sea to southern India to the spot of eastern peninsula. Machilipatnam was a flourishing seaport on the east coast during the time of the Satavahanas and in the 17th century AD, it was a centre of French, British, and Dutch trade.

It is one of the earliest known British settlements in the subcontinent of India, its importance being due to the fact that it was the bandar or port of Golconda. It was the British East India Company's first trading post on the coromandel coast. An agency was established there in 1611. During the wars of the Carnatic, the English were temporarily expelled from the town, which was held by the French for some years. In 1759 the town and port were carried by storm by Colonel Forde, an achievement followed by the acquisition of the Northern Circars (q.v.). In 1864 a great storm-wave swept over the entire town and is said to have destroyed 30,000 lives.

Once a flourishing port, the port of Machilipatnam today is in desperate need for modernization. It has not seen any ships in the last decade. In its heyday, the port used to handle export of different items weighing more than 27 thousand tonnes and imports of 37,000 tonnes. Much needs to be done to bring the city back to its glory. In January 2006, Government of Andhra Pradesh revealed plans for reviving the Machilipatnam port at a cost of ₹12 billion. It has allocated 6000 acres of land for the project.

Machilipatnam is well known for its Kalamkari painting. The art was introduced during the reign of Qutub Shahis when the entire Telugu country was under their control. Weavers form a large portion of the inhabitants, though their trade has greatly declined since the beginning of the 19th century. Their operations, besides weaving, include printing, bleaching washing and dressing. In former days the chintzes of Masulipatam had a great reputation abroad for the freshness and permanency of their dyes.

Kalamkari floor spread, block-printed and mordant-dyed cotton (kalamkari) from Machilipatnam. This spread, in the Muslim style, was used for gatherings such as community dinners.The Kalamkari fabrics of Machilipatnam and Kalahasti with their intricate designs, are used in clothing and wall hangings. Kalamkari refers to dye-painted cloths and the technique used to create them. Their name derives from kalam, the Persian word for a pen-like tool used to draw outlines on the cloth, and kari (work). Fabrics are outlined with a cotton-tipped bamboo stick and dyed in vegetable or mineral colours. The process involves washing, rinsing, soaking and bleaching muslin, and applying mordants and dyes using natural substances like indigo for blue, madder for red, mango bark and dried myrobalan fruit for yellow, palm sugar and rusted iron for black.

The dyeing process is very elaborate and can take several days to complete. While some pieces are hand-drawn, large canvas and sheets are block-printed. Kalahasti is noted for its wall hangings depicting mythological tales and characters, while Machilipatnam for the block-painted large prints used for sarees. The work done in Machilipatnam, often using block printing in conjunction with hand painting, features more decorative floral and vegetal designs that appealed to local kingdoms and to an extraordinary export trade. This culminated in European demand for Machilipatnam chintz, which derives its name from the Hindi word chint (spotted). Kalahasti is known for the distinctive temple hangings, chariot decorations and canopies of typically feature Hindu stories, and the images are often identified with text in Telegu, the regional language.

The Andhra Pradesh coast between Ongole and Machilipatnam is most vulnerable to high surges due to a cyclone. Andhra Cyclone of 14-20 November 1977 that crossed coast near Nizampatnam took a toll of about 10,000 lives. As the storm approached the coast, gale winds reaching 200 km/h lashed Prakasam, Guntur, Krishna, East Godavari and West Godavari districts. Storm surge, 5 meters high, inundated Krishna estuary and the coasts south of Machilipatnam. The 2004 Tsunami affected many fishing villages around Machilipatnam. The Government and the NGOs are involved in rebuilding and reconstruction of the devastated villages.

Machilipatnam is well connected to other parts of the state by rail and road.

Nearest airport is located at Gannavaram/Vijayawada, which is about 70 km from Machilipatnam.

There are two railway stations in Machilipatnam: Machilipatnam Railway Station and Chilakalapudi Railway Station. Although there is a third railway station called Bandar Port, that is not being used. South Central Railways runs its services from Machilipatnam to Vijayawada, Visakhapatnam (Vizag), Tirupati and Bangalore. There are plans to run a train to Mumbai via Hyderabad.

Machilipatnam is at a distance from Vijayawada on NH9 at about 65 km and approximately 325 km from Hyderabad.

Machilipatnam is well-connected to most parts of the Andhra Pradesh and some parts of South India. APSRTC (state-run bus service) runs buses to most parts of state.

There are many ways to get around in Machilipatnam.

You can travel by buses run by private operators called as 'City bus'.

Autorickshaws or an auto in Machilipatnam does not have meters. Normally, drivers fix a rate and passengers have to bargain to get a better prices. Normally, Autos should carry a maximum of 3 passengers excluding the driver, but it is common to find them being overloaded to carry up to six passengers.

Unlike autorickshaw, which is run by an engine, rickshaw is pulled by human. Although the slowest means of travel, it is convinient to travel short distances. Two persons can comfortably sit in a Rickshaw.

Metered taxis are not yet available, but normal taxis are available here. One might feel them to be costly, as they have to pay fixed minimum fare and also driver commission.

Machilipatnam is a city with a rich history of foreign conquests, business and trade. During its heydays Machilipatnam port served as a gateway to India.

• The beaches in Machilipatnam are long, broad, pristine, with pale blonde sands. Manginapudi Beach, a beachside fishing hamlet, located at a distance of 10 km from Machilipatnam, is well known for its scenic beauty. The beach has a natural bay with shallow waters. The unique feature of this beach is that instead of sand it contains black soil. Thousands of piligrims take a holy dip in the sea, at the beach, during an annual Hindu festival called Maghapoornami. In order to promote tourism, an annual festival called "Krishna Utsav" is celebrated during the months of February/March.
• A full fledged dance school at the beach, offers courses that train students in the Kuchipudi, popular dance form.
• Carting the visitors with the old lighthouse, Dattashram on the banks of sea coast is a pilgrimage site. Dattashram has an ancient Shiva temple and a Datta temple of modern construction. Manginapudi is popularly known as "Datta Rameswaram" due to the consecration of 9 wells to bath, as in Rameswaram.
• Panduranga Swamy temple at Chilakalapudi, near the city, close to the Manginapudi Beach, is a famous piligrimage site. It is a temple of Lord Vishnu, said to be similar to the temple at Pandaripur.
• The Machilipatnam Church built in 19th century by an English man, with massive prayer halls is a tourist destination.
• Ghantasala, 21 km from Machilipatnam, it has the remains of an old Buddhist stupa.
• Agastheeswara Temple, 36 km from Machilipatnam, is a temple of Lord Shiva, a piligrimage site. Lord Shiva at this temple is called by the name, Ekaratri Mallikarjunaswamy. An annual festival is celebrated at this temple when the deities are taken out in procession.
• Gudivada, North west of Machilipatnam, visitors are attracted by the old ruins of the stupas.
• Further up the coast of Machilipatnam there are five temples dedicated to Lord Shiva. These ancient temples are located at Amravati, Samalkot, Bhimavaram, Draksharama and Chebrolu.

Machilipatnam is popular for imitation gold and for Kalamkari works. You can find bedsheets, curtain cloths, night dresses and dress material with Kalamkari work. These products are even exported to many places.

Machilipatnam is popular for sweets (Bandar Laddu and Bandar Halwa are quite popular). There are many chat like snacks in Machilipatnam where the locals stand in queue, especially in the evenings at the mobile chat vendors. These are spicy, but tasty.

There are a number of restaurants and a lot of hotels make Chinese dishes also. Otherwise, for rice eaters (South Indians), this place is like heaven for food. Food is relatively very cheap and tasty. You can enjoy local dishes.

As regards to fruits, you can find bananas, mangoes and other seasonal fruits at a reasonable rate.

If you have the habit of drinking mineral water, better to continue the same habit. Though the tap water (municipal water) tastes good, as in the case of many places in India, outsiders may get infected easily. Mineral water is available every where and costs around ₹15/- per litre bottle. All popular brands in India are available in shops.

• Suganda Pal is a drink made of locally available roots, mixed with lemon and soda. It is a thirst quencher during summer. One should definitely taste it.

• Badam milk is available at Koneru centre. It's famous in Machilipatnam.

There are few hotels where you can stay comfortably. Hotels are inexpensive but not clean. Apsara, RR Bhavan, Eswara Residency peacock residency and Raghava Residency are the relatively better hotels. Tariff vary between ₹500 to ₹1,000. If one wants luxury stay, Vijayawada is not far off and has better options.

There are several post offices in Machilipatnam, main ones are at Machilipatnam and Chilakalapudi.

The dialing code for Machilipatnam is 08672. When calling from overseas, dial +91 8672 XXXXXX. Public Phone booths present everywhere, most of them are coin-operated.

The following mobile phone operators provide services in Machilipatnam. One needs to give a Photo ID, Address proof and a photograph to get prepaid connection.

• Cell One
• Airtel
• Vodafone
• Idea
• Aircel
• tata indicom
• reliance
• tata docomo
• reliance gsm

• Bhimavaram
• Palakollu
• Eluru
• Tenali
• Vijayawada