Middleton-in-Teesdale Voyage Tips and guide

Middleton-in-Teesdale is a village in County Durham, ten miles northwest of Barnard Castle. It's in the scenic Tees valley, where the main visitor attraction is High Force waterfall, and in 2021 had a population of 1100.

The lower River Tees is industrial, but its upper valley between Cow Green and Barnard Castle cuts through scenic moorland, part of the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. As with other AONBs, the "natural beauty" is partly man-made, through hill farming and 18th / 19th century lead mining. The Tees foams over a series of waterfalls as it cascades down Whin Sill: these layers of tough dolerite formed from magma in the late Carboniferous period, and elsewhere form Hadrian's Wall and the Farne Islands. There is some quarrying in the area, beware big trucks along the lanes, and the threat of further mining hasn't entirely gone away. There's talk of mining zinc here whenever the global price spikes, but so far nothing has come of this.

54°37′30″N 2°4′59″W

Map of Middleton-in-Teesdale

Weardale Bus 95 / 96 runs hourly M-Sa from Barnard Castle to Lartington, Cotherstone, Romaldkirk and Middleton-in-Teesdale, taking 30 min.

Hodgson's Bus 73 runs three times on Wednesday from Barnard Castle to Middleton, Newbiggin, High Force, Bowlees, Forest-in-Teesdale and Langdon Beck.

Barnard Castle has buses every 30 min from Darlington, which is on the railway between London Kings Cross, York and Newcastle.

By road, A66 is the best route from the south or west — follow signs to Barnard Castle then take B6277 or B6278 up the valley. From the northeast, A688 runs from Bishop Auckland (and beyond) to Staindrop, then take B6279 to Middleton.

You need wheels, and a car affords shelter from the rain.

No local taxi, it would have to come from Barnard Castle.

• 54.6503-2.18751 High Force, off Alston Road. Daily Apr-Oct 10AM-8PM, Nov-Mar 10AM-3PM. Impressive waterfall, where the River Tees plunges 71 feet (21 m) over the layer of hard rock known as Whin Sill. A mile downstream is its junior brother, the 18-foot Low Force. You can access both free any time by hiking along the south bank path. This can be reached from the footbridge below Bowlees Visitor Centre, or by taking the lane towards Holwick that branches off B6277 just south of Middleton. But most people approach by the north bank path, where the hours and charges described here apply. This side gets very busy and touristy, but dogs are welcome. Parking £4 plus adult £4, child £2.45p. (updated Oct 2025)
• 54.6525-2.14212 Summerhill Force is in a woodland with hiking trails.
• Middleton village is late Georgian, built to house lead miners, until the lead industry collapsed in the 1890s. St Mary's Church aimed to be inclusive so it had chapels for Roman Catholics, Baptists, Wesleyans and Primitive Methodists; in 2025 it's closed for re-building.
• 54.6094-2.09583 Kirkcarrion along B6276 is a tumulus that's believed to be a Bronze Age burial site. It's nowadays topped by a copse of pine trees.
• 54.656-2.0884 Colberry Lead Mine can't be entered, but it's left a dramatic scar on the landscape in the form of a "hush". This is a ravine created by directing a torrent of water to wash away the overlying material and expose the lead-bearing vein. This hush even cuts through the watershed between two valleys.
• Romaldkirk church has Saxon and medieval components.
• 54.67-2.35 Cow Green Reservoir lies at the head of the River Tees and controls its flow. Construction of the reservoir in the 1960s was fiercely opposed, as it covers part of an Arctic or alpine habitat that's rare in Britain. From the car park walk 2 miles south to Cauldron Snout, the long cascade where the river leaves the reservoir.

• Pennine Way is usually hiked northwards, to have the weather at your back. The route into Teesdale is from Tan Hill Inn northeast across the moors onto the lane at Sleightholme which you follow into Bowes village. The definitive route bypasses Bowes (via "God's Bridge") but most walkers visit to break up a 16-mile section. Then head north over moors dipping into Baldersdale, halfway point on the entire Pennine Way, and where "Hannah's Meadow" is a survival of flowering pasture that has escaped modern agriculture. Another moorland slog then the route trends east into Middleton.

Continue from Middleton along the south bank of the Tees upstream past Low Force, High Force and Bleabeck Force. You can stay at the hostel in Langdon to break up another long section. The valley then leads west to the source of the Tees at Cow Green Reservoir, set in semi-tundra heathland. Follow Maize Beck west into Cumbria, past a tiny waterfall that deserves to be called Micro Force, and beware the army training ranges. The trail crosses a soggy plateau before descending into Dufton.

• Walk, cycle or horse-ride along the old railway track up the Tees valley. From Barnard Castle follow B6277 or the Ray Gill path northwest to Lartington to pick up the trail, which takes you through Cotherstone, Romaldkirk and Mickleton to Middleton.

• Co-op Food on Chapel Row is open daily 7AM-10PM.
• Farmers Market is held on the last Sunday of every month, 10AM-3PM.

• Forrester's Bar is a restaurant with rooms at 52 Market Place.
• Middleton Fish & Chip Shop is at 49 Market Place, open Tu F Sa 11:30AM-2PM, 4-8PM, W Th 4:30-7:30 PM.
• Tees Pot is at 2 Bridge St, open Sa-Th 9AM-4PM.
• Samuel James is a deli and cafe at 4 Horsemarket, open W-M 9AM-5PM.
• Winter's Cafe at 7 Horsemarket is open Th-Tu 9:30AM-4:30PM.

• Head for the hotel bars. Middleton is too small for a standalone pub.

• 54.6256-2.08391 Brunswick House, 55 Market Place, Middleton DL12 0QH, ☏ +44 1833 640393. Cosy welcoming B&B with five rooms in charming 18th century building. No dogs. B&B double £120. (updated Oct 2025)
• Belvedere House is a B&B next door at 54 Market Place.
• Teesdale Hotel, Market Place, ☏ +44 1833 640264. 15 bedrooms in a 18th century coaching inn. Phone to book a dog friendly room. Restaurant open evenings 5.30-8PM, and lunchtime Fr-Su. single from £53, double £91. (updated Oct 2025)
• The Hill is a B&B at 9 Hill Terrace.
• Dale View Caravan Park is on Bridge St across the river. It takes tourers and campers.
• Leekworth Caravan Park is east at the foot of Leekworth Lane.
• Mickleton Mill further east across the river is only for long-term bookings, no short-stay tourers.
• High Force Hotel is on B6277 by the waterfall.
• 54.5939-2.00982 Rose & Crown, Romaldkirk DL12 9EB, ☏ +44 1833 650213. Charming small hotel in 18th-century coaching inn. B&B double £190. (updated Oct 2025)

As of Oct 2025, Middleton and its approach roads have 4G from EE, Three and Vodafone, but only a poor scratchy signal from O2. 5G has not reached this area.

• Alston in Cumbria is north over the moors. Like Middleton it's a former mining village and now a centre for hill-walking.
• Barnard Castle down the Tees Valley has a ruined castle and the opulent Bowes Museum.