Mineral de Pozos is a ghost town in Guanajuato, Mexico. It's been abandoned not just once, but at least three times, with its fortunes rising and falling along with the local silver mines. It is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.
Understand
[edit]Supposedly the town is officially known as San Pedro de Pozos, but that name is never used by anyone cool enough to share a drink with.
History
[edit]
It was a booming silver mining town in the late 1500s when Spanish colonists discovered the first silver deposits. The mines petered out in the 19th century until another deposit was found and the town boomed again. The Mexican Revolution saw many of the miners drop their picks and shovels to pick up rifles and join one army or another. After the revolution, miners returned, but a flood in the late 1930s flooded the shafts and tunnels and the mining company pulled out (along with most of the miners). By 1950, the boom town of almost 30,000 became a ghost town of 200 people. It has largely stayed that way until the 21st century when artists and adventurous young people began slowly coming back and reclaiming the often spectacular buildings as their homes and businesses. As of 2020, the town has a population of about 2,500.
Get in
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The closest airport is either the Aeropuerto Bajío/León (BJX IATA) or the Querétaro Intercontinental Airport (QRO IATA). Both airports are about 2 hours by taxi from Mineral de Pozos.
By car
[edit]From San Miguel de Allende it is a 1-hour drive to Mineral de Pozos via Guanajuato state highway 1 (Carr. San Miguel - Dr Mora).
From Dolores Hidalgo it is also a 1-hour drive. Use federal highway MEX-130 east to San Luis de la Paz, then turn South on GTO-1.
If you prefer not to drive, tour guides in both cities can arrange day trips that include transportation.
Get around
[edit]Walking is the best option, especially given the sheer number of photogenic spots just begging for you to take pictures. Bike rentals are available at Guanajuato 46 and are a great way to get around even if you want to explore just a bit further afield. ATVs can be a fun way to explore the countryside while letting off some steam. ATV rentals are available at the Centenario Mine on Calle Centenario. If you need to get out of town and want a taxi, ask your hotel staff to call one for you. You won't find taxis sitting arouind a sitio here and there's no Uber.
See
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- 1 Centenario Mine, Centenario 58, ☏ +52 442 773 6764. Daily 10:00 - 19:00. Put on a hardhat and go down into the mine. Guides work for tips. Various minerals are on display as is an assortment of junk.....errrr....mining equipment, yeah, that's what it is! Very informal and friendly. Also rents ATVs so you can go bombinb around town and the nearby countryside.
- 2 History Museum (Museo de Historia), Guanajuato 46. Modern regional history museum with dioramas depicting scenes from the town's past. Lots of interactive display screens. Friendly staff.
- 3 Plaza del Minero, Mariano Jimenez. Town square with stone walkways and an outdoor theatre area.
- 4 Parroquia San Pedro Apostol (St Peter the Apostle Parish), Calle Recreo. 17th century church with stunning tilework and frescoes covering every surface imaginible. The church has an iconic cupola that can be seen from almost anywhere in town. The original altar is intact though several of the walls show peeled paint and other signs of neglect.
- 5 Rancho de Lavanda Pozos, Carretera Pozos - San Luis de la Paz, km 6.5, ☏ +52 468 680 2964. Fields of lavendar offering tours with an on-site gift shop and restaurant. The restaurant serves lavendar ice cream and lavendar beer (among other things). M$40.
- 6 Hacienda El Triangulo, Antiguo Camino a Mineral de Pozos, ☏ +52 468 106 0758. F-Su 11:00 - 18:00, closed M-Th. Historic silver-mining hacienda that operated in the 19th century, extracting silver, gold, and iron. The mining hacienda was abandoned in 1923. Ruined buildings, some with amazing architectural detail. M$30.
- 7 Hacienda Mina Cinco Señores, Antiguo Camino a Mineral de Pozos, ☏ +52 468 113 5872. Sa-Su 11:00 - 17:30, closed M-F. Large mining complex that was abandoned in 1888. Many ruined industrial buildings that you can walk through and photograph. The mine is open and tour guides lead groups into the mine for informative tours lasting up to an hour. Guides speak only Spanish. M$30 to M$150 depending on tour options.
- 8 Hacienda San Baldomero, Antiguo Camino a Mineral de Pozos. Abandoned mining hacienda with amazing architecture with intricate masonry arches, porticoes, and flying buttresses. The mine entrance is open and guided tours don hardhats for a trip to the underworld. Guides speak Spanish only.
- 9 Escuela Modelo (old school), Calle Centenario 10, ☏ +52 442 348 1333. M-F 11:00 - 19:00, closed Sa-Su. Large abandoned school that bears testament to the size of the city in its heyday. Parts of the school complex have been restored and now house a Mexican history museum that concentrates on the Porfiriato era of the late 19th century. The complex also has an amphitheatre across the street. Fascinating place to delve into the colorful stories of the town's past.
Do
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- Festival Cultural de la Toltequidad - third weekend in July, for over 30 years the town's largest celebration is an homage to the Toltec indigenous culture. Food, music, dancing and games mark the occasion.
- 1 Operador Turistico Bici Rental y Rappel, Guanajuato 46, ☏ +52 468 104 1846. Daily 09:00 - 18:00. Mountain bike rentals and advice on recommended sightseeing routes.
- 2 Club Spa Las Minas, Calle Guanajuato 102, ☏ +52 442 293 0053. Th-M 09:00 - 19:00, closed Tu-W. Well equipped gym with weight room, basketball court, racquetball, climbing wall, outdoor swimming pool, jacuzzi. Massage treatments available. No minors allowed.
Buy
[edit]Eat
[edit]Mineral de Pozos has a lot of restaurants for a town of its size, though most are open only on weekends when the crowds come in from Mexico City. Most restaurants are high quality and most serve regional Bajio cuisine. This is a good place for the adventurous and curious palate.
- 1 La Pila Seca, Hidalgo 10B. F-Tu 09:00 - 18:00, closed W-Th. Rustic rooftop restaurant serving traditional Mexican cuisine with regional specialties. Great views of the surrounding neighborhoods and the gardens below. Delicious food and drinks (particularly the cilantro margaritas). M$300.
- 2 Restaurant 325, Ignacio Allende 325, ☏ +52 442 355 5730. F-Su 13:00 - 22:00, closed M-Th. Upscale restaurant serving regional specialties including some very unusual dishes that will challenge the novice diner to authentic Mexican cuisine. Handmade tortillas served with most entrees. Try the Tuetanos with Escamol. M$300.
- 3 Casa Diablitos, Calle Leandro Valle 26, ☏ +52 468 132 7172. Th-Su 13:00 - 01:00, closed M-W. Upscale restaurant serving regional cuisine with strong indigenous influences (the guacamole is excellent, and you can get it with dried insects in it). Excellent selection of artesanal mezcals with several signature cocktails. A tasting board of several different mezcals is a good way to learn about the amazing range of flavors and aromas in a well-made mezcal. M$300.
- 4 Pizza 'N Chela, Calle Plaza Zaragoza 107, ☏ +52 442 293 0205. Daily 14:00 - 21:00. If pizza and brewskis in a casual environment sounds more inviting than a fancier formal restaurant, then Pizza N'Chala is your place. Comfortable outdoor dining area with eclectic decor. Full bar, though micheladas seem to be the most popular drink. Popular place that gets crowded on the weekends. M$200.
- 5 Cielo Abierto, C. Leandro Valle 103. Marketplace type atmosphere with several independent vendors serving regional cuisine and casual food (tacos, tortas, etc.) Drinks include artesanal mezcal and craft beers produced in the region. Affordable place to grab a quick, casual meal. M$200.
Drink
[edit]- 1 Mezcal Cuanax, Camino a la Potosina 101, ☏ +52 468 107 9703. Daily 09:00 - 18:00. Small artesanal distillery producing high-quality mezcals. Stop in and take the tour to see how mezcal is produced then sample a few drinks.
- 2 Emiliano's Bar, Abasolo. Opens daily at 13:00, closes sometime between 18:00 and 00:00. Delightfully run-down old-school cantina. The only departure from tradition is that women are allowed to drink in the bar. Strictly cash only.
Sleep
[edit]- 1 Casa Diamante, Juana Lucio 309, Comunidad, ☏ +52 442 293 0272. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Upscale boutique hotel with modern updates, a beautiful outdoor swimming pool with surrounding gardens, a spa that offers beer therapy, spacious comfortable rooms, On-site restaurant.
- 2 Posada las Reynas, Benito Juárez 30, Centro, ☏ +52 442 293 0136. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Rooms are small but comfortable and clean. Friendly service. Off-street parking available but tight fit for large vehicles. M$1200.
- 3 Hotel Colibri, Cinco de Mayo 45, ☏ +52 468 106 8386. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Beautiful boutique hotel with just 4 rooms, each individually furnished and decorated. Gardens are filled with trees, palms and flowers. M$2100.
- 4 Hotel Secreto, Jardin Principal 4 A, Centro, ☏ +52 442 620 6032. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Small boutique bed and breakfast with just 3 rooms. Rooms are spacious and beautifully furnished. Secure off-street parking is available. M$1750.
- 5 Posada de las Minas, Calle Manuel Doblado Numero 1, Centro, ☏ +52 442 293 0213. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Beautifully restored colonial era building with spacious, clean, luxuriously appointed rooms. On-site restaurant with full bar serving gourmet meals. Off-street parking available. Ideal for a romantic weekend escape.
- 6 Mineral del Cielo, Camino al Ojo de Agua, ☏ +52 554 786 1637. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 13:00. Luxury boutique hotel with 4 standalone villas, each renovated with modern materials and contemporary furnishings. Spacious, comfortable and private. Dogs allowed. M$2000 - M$6000.