Montana Voyage Tips and guide

Montana, known as Big Sky Country, is a state of contrasts, from the eastern plains to the towering peaks of the Rocky Mountains in the west. It is the fourth largest of the United States but one of the least populated, making for wide open spaces, lonesome highways and dramatic scenery, both to the east and west of the Continental Divide.

Montana is generally divided into the mountainous Western Montana and the flatter Eastern Montana, roughly split by the Continental Divide of the Rocky Mountains. The Montana board of tourism further splits the state into 6 regions:

Glacier Country The far northwest portions of Montana, including Glacier National Park and the cities of Missoula, Whitefish, Kalispell, and Cut Bank.

Southwest Montana Southwest Montana, including the cities of Butte and Helena.

Central Montana The central and northern central of Montana, including the cities of Great Falls and Lewistown.

Yellowstone Country South central Montana, the gateway to Yellowstone National Park, including the cities of Bozeman and Red Lodge.

Missouri River Country The far northeast Montana, including Glasgow.

Southeast Montana The far southeast Montana, including the cities of Billings, Miles City, Glendive and the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument.

• 46.592778-112.0351 Helena — the state capital.
• 45.786667-108.5372222 Billings — on the plains within sight of the mountains, the most populous city in Montana.
• 45.679444-111.0372223 Bozeman — gateway to Yellowstone National Park.
• 46.006389-112.5297224 Butte — former mining town, once the largest city between Chicago and Seattle, famous for the Berkeley Pit, the largest Superfund site in the nation.
• 47.503611-111.2863895 Great Falls — the Electric City.
• 48.545278-109.67756 Havre — railroad town, home to the Wahkpa Chu'gn buffalo jump, the H.Earl Clack Museum, Ft. Assiniboine, and the nearby Bear Paw Battlefield.
• 48.2-114.3166677 Kalispell — gateway to Glacier National Park.
• 45.658333-110.5666678 Livingston — the northern gateway to Yellowstone National Park, home to interesting local museums.
• 46.8625-114.0116679 Missoula — Montana's second largest city, home to the University of Montana.

• 45.09873-108.2510381 Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area
• 48.755-113.82 Glacier National Park — opportunities for hiking, fishing, boating and camping on a vast scale. A UNESCO World Heritage Site.
• 45.5703-107.4273 Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument — Custer's Last Stand battlefield and Reenactment location
• 46.0036-108.0094 Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail — Between May 1804 and September 1806, 32 men, one woman, and a baby traveled from the plains of the Midwest to the shores of the Pacific Ocean. They called themselves the Corps of Discovery.
• 47.7833-109.0215 Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument — Called "The Breaks" by locals, it is a series of badland areas characterized by rock outcroppings, steep bluffs and grassy plains along the Missouri River.
• 44.6-110.56 Yellowstone National Park — Most of the park is in Wyoming, but three major entrances are in Montana, as the Wyoming side was harder for most visitors to get to.
  • 45.036944-110.7138897 Gardiner — The original and only all year entrance to Yellowstone.
  • 45.0175-109.9386118 Cooke City — Near the Northeast entrance to Yellowstone.
  • 44.662222-111.1059 West Yellowstone — West entrance to Yellowstone.

Montana is the 4th largest state by land mass in the United States at 145,552 square miles, however the state ranks 44th in population with just under a million residents, most of whom are clustered around cities and towns. Billings is the largest city, Missoula is the second largest, and Great Falls and Bozeman are the only others above 50,000 people.

Western Montana is characterized by higher rainfall in some areas, and terrain dominated by mountains, making for picturesque scenery such as that found in Glacier National Park. The west is often considered more picturesque, but is also more populated and heavily touristed.

Eastern Montana is flatter, with isolated "island ranges" of lower mountains intermixed with prairie and a more arid climate, balanced by the presence of several significant rivers including the Missouri River and the Yellowstone River. Some areas feature erosion-built features such as buttes and badlands. It is more sparsely populated, with the notable exception of Billings, the state's largest city.

Residents of Montana often classify themselves as either easterners or westerners, depending upon their geographic home. Attitude-wise, the west is generally considered more liberal, especially around the college town of Missoula. The east, with its large ranching and agricultural operations, is considered more conservative.

The state economy is primarily based on agriculture, ranching, logging and mining as well as tourism.

Montana observes all the federal holidays, and adds Election Day (always on a Tuesday, from November 2nd to 8th). However, there may not be an election in an odd-numbered year, and local and preliminary ("primary") elections throughout the year are not holidays.

• Visit Montana website

Most visitors to Montana will drive. Montana is traversed by three major interstates.

• Interstate 15 (I-15) runs north-south from Alberta, Canada through Western Montana to Idaho.
• I-90 runs north from Sheridan, Wyoming to near Billings then runs west through Bozeman, Butte, and Missoula to Idaho.
• I-94 runs from the North Dakota border west to join with I-90 just east of Billings.

A few U.S. Highways provide mainline travel through interesting areas of the state.

• The Hi-Line' (US-2), a fabled highway running through northern Montana from the North Dakota border near Bainville to the Idaho border near Troy for 666 miles. The highway runs through the plains and prairies east of the continental divide, through the Fort Peck Indian Reservation town of Wolf Point, through Glasgow, Malta, Havre, Shelby and Cut Bank until crossing the continental divide, running the south side of Glacier National Park to Kalispell, Libby and the border.
• US Highway 12 (US-12) runs a meandering east to west route from Lolo Pass to the North Dakota border near Baker, through heavily forested, winding roads in the West to the dramatic flats and plains to the East. The highway runs a meandering route from Lolo Pass to Missoula, overlaps with I-90 until Garrison, continues on to Helena, then proceeds for almost 250 miles until merging with I-94 through Miles City, then continues on to the North Dakota border near the southern edge of the state.

The state is easily accessible by air. Major airports serve the seven largest communities of Billings (BIL ^IATA), Missoula (MSO ^IATA), Helena (HLN ^IATA), Great Falls (GTF ^IATA), Bozeman (BZN ^IATA) Kalispell (FCA ^IATA) and Butte (BTM ^IATA), connecting to major western hubs such as Seattle, Salt Lake City, Minneapolis/St. Paul, and Denver. Regional carriers serve some smaller communities.

A popular and creative way to arrive is via the legendary Empire Builder. The train has 12 stops in Montana (from east to west: Wolf Point, Glasgow, Malta, Havre, Shelby, Cut Bank, Browning/Oct-1 through May 1, East Glacier/May 1 through Oct 1, Essex, West Glacier, Whitefish, Libby), and takes passengers to Seattle, Portland, Oregon, and Chicago from Montana's Hi-Line and Glacier National Park. Tickets should be purchased in advance, and it is generally cheaper to do so. Staffed Amtrak stations in Montana are Wolf Point, Havre, Shelby, East Glacier (when open), and Whitefish.

Montana is a large state – a trip via Interstate 90 from the far eastern town of Wibaux to the western border at Lookout Pass is over 700 mi (1,100 km), a 9-10 hour drive. Because residents must often drive long distances to get from one place to another, they generally love their cars – especially their SUVs and other 4-wheel drive vehicles that do well in the often hazardous winter weather. Public transportation between cities and towns is limited, so consider renting a car to get around the state.

The easiest and most convenient way to get around is by car. Destinations are spread wide even within a single city, and within cities, parking is usually ample and cheap, if not free. Rental cars are widely available, and the option to pick up in one city and drop off in another is available, though expensive.

Information on transit can be found from APTA.

• Airport Shuttle Express, ☏ +1 403 509-1570. Offers shared ride van shuttles to East/West Glacier, Whitefish, Kalispell, Glacier National Park, and most towns in northern Montana on request from the Calgary Airport. (updated Jul 2015)
• Arrows (Express) Stage Lines (Black Hills Stage Lines), ☏ +1 402 371-3850, toll-free: +1-877-779-2999. Goes south from Billings to Lovell, Wyoming, via Laurel and Edgar (Montana) along I-90/US-310 on one route and to Denver via Hardin, Montana; Sheridan, Montana; Buffalo, Wyoming; Casper, Wyoming; etc., along the I-90/I-25 on another. (updated Jul 2015)
• Jefferson Lines, toll-free: +1-800-451-5333. Travels primarily on Interstate 90 between Spokane and Billings (via Missoula, Butte, Belgrade/Bozeman and Livingston) and between Billings and Rapid City (Sheridan, Buffalo, Gillette, etc.); and on I-94 between Billings and Fargo (via Miles City, Glendive, Sidney, etc). (updated Jul 2015)
• Salt Lake Express, ☏ +1 208 656-8824. Travels primarily on Interstate 15 from Salt Lake City through Idaho Falls to Great Falls via Dillon, Butte, Basin, Boulder, Helena, and Craig in Montana. There's also another route from Idaho Falls to West Yellowstone on US Hwy 20. (updated Jul 2015)

Wildlife include deer, elk, moose, bison, big horn sheep, mountain goats, bears (black and grizzly), coyotes, wolves (mostly in Yellowstone), mountain lions, and bald eagles and other birds of prey.

There's untamed mountains and protected wild spaces throughout the mountainous parts of the state. In particular, Bozeman, Kalispell and Livingston are surrounded by natural attractions and make great base camps for exploring national parks and outdoor recreation.

Lewis and Clark, on their journey to explore America's newly-acquired interior and reach the Pacific, spent many months navigating through what became the state. Placenames throughout the state honor this expedition. Pompey's Pillar near Billings features an inscription left by Clark, the only physical evidence remaining from the trip.

This region was one of the last areas where indigenous tribes resisted European-American settlers. Little Bighorn Battlefield was the site of a major battle remembered in American culture as Custer's Last Stand. Today, there are many large Indian Reservations, including the Blackfeet and Crow, where you can engage with Native American culture.

Mining runs deep through Montana's veins. The gold and silver rushes of the late 1800s left this region teeming with rough-and-tumble Old West streets and forlorn ghost towns. The neighboring Virginia City and Nevada City are the showcases, restored for easy and informative exploration. Butte and Helena became centers for industrial-scale gold and copper mining, imbuing the cities with a sense of national importance and a legacy of fortunes made and lost. Butte's massive Berkeley Pit copper mine is hard to miss and is sure to leave an impression.

Montana has a recreational opportunity for every adventure seeker, every season, and every mode of transit — by land, by boat, by bike or all terrain vehicle, there's something to keep you occupied in Montana.

• Whitewater rafting – many Montana rivers, especially in the western part of the state, offer world class rapids. Many companies offer float trips of varying degrees of difficulty and length. Rafting on your own is greatly discouraged due to the extreme danger often found in mountain rivers.
• Boating – bring your powerboat, canoe, kayak or schooner and find a lake, river or stream to wile away the day. Kayak and canoe rentals are widely available. See also Canoeing
• Floating – a real Montana experience. Rent inner tubes, take a cooler of beer and float a river with a few, or a bunch, of your closest friends on a hot day. Pick a river that's wide and slow, or fast with rapids, and enjoy the view from a cool Montana waterway.
• Fly fishing – iconically Montana due to the movie A River Runs Through It, which was filmed along parts of the Blackfoot River in Western Montana. Anglers flock to rivers in the late spring and summer months to catch the "big one". Outfitters are available for guided trips or to rent you the gear you'll need. Ask a local for a good spot.

• Hiking/Backpacking
• Mountain biking
• Climbing
• Off road vehicles
• Horseback riding

Montana has two large resort ski areas. Big Sky, 45 minutes south of Bozeman, has two mountains, lots of lifts and a gondola to the top of Lone Peak. Pick a clear day for an unparalleled view of the Spanish Peaks and incredible expert skiing. Whitefish Mountain Resort, between Kalispell and Glacier National Park, has 14 lifts across three sides of Big Mountain. There are many smaller local hills across Western Montana.

The mountains usually open around mid-late December and remain open into April, sometimes May. There are also options for backcountry and heli-skiing.

Other popular activities include snowmobiling, snowshoeing and cross country skiing.

Montana is now home to some of the best skateparks in the country with some pretty unique features. There are skateparks in each of the major cities, and even some smaller towns.

For a state generally associated with cattle chomping green grass underneath big blue skies, Montana has quite a bit to offer outside of meat and potatoes. Within cities and settled areas you should find a good variety of the ubiquitous fast food drive-thrus, homey cafes and diners, delis, steakhouses, Mexican cantinas, noodle and Asian grills and the odd Indian or Sushi restaurant. For distinctly Montana eateries, try:

• MacKenzie River Pizza Co, with locations across the state.
• Wilcoxson's ice cream offers traditional favorites along with specialty flavors, like Moose Tracks. Their fudge bars, available at any convenience store, are a must-have.

In rural areas your selection may be limited. Every small town will have at least one eatery, even if it's a cafe stuffed in the corner of a post office, or a burger joint in the back of the town bar. Quality will vary, of course, but the experience might stick with you. If you are looking for meat and potatoes, look no further than the local cafe, diner or steakhouse. The beef will be fresh, most often locally raised and slaughtered, and cooked however you want it – but if you say well done, your server might cry.

Buffalo chili, cowboy beans, Indian fry-bread and steak are types of cowboy food that many love to experience while in the Big Sky Country. Try some chuckwagon food in and around the state.

During the summer months, primarily late June, July and early August, look for huckleberries and famous Flathead cherries at farmers markets and roadside stands throughout Western Montana. If you're looking for adventure, ask a local for a good place to go pick your own huckleberries – but beware, they may keep it a closely guarded secret. If you go, take some bear spray, they love the treat, too.

Many adventurous visitors seek wild game. Wild game cannot be sold legally in Montana, due to the impossibility of ensuring health and safety standards. A few restaurants offer bison and, less commonly, deer and elk; these are legally required to be animals raised on a ranch, not in the wild. Their food supply is controlled and they often taste milder than their wild counterparts (elk and bison are especially mild and very similar to beef). Few Montanans eat this meat regularly, but if you have a chance to eat wild game at a home or potluck, it is worth trying it.

Montanans, as a general rule, love their beer. Montanans love their local microbrews, including Moose Drool, a brown ale brewed by Big Sky Brewing Co. and the best selling microbrew outside and inside of the state. Microwbreweries in Missoula, Kalispell, Helena, Billings and other cities and towns allow for cheap tasting and filling of a growler — usually the best bang (or buzz) for your buck. A list of breweries can be found at VisitMT. Plus many have a regional distribution so check the local grocery stores and gas stations in the specialty section.

Outside of microbrews, domestic favorites vary from Coors to Budweiser, with light varieties in between. Bars good for bar hopping can be found in the downtown districts of most cities, especially Missoula, Billings and Bozeman, and they're generally a good gauge of local color and culture. Outside of large cities, most small towns have at least one bar, and they often serve food of varying quality. A general rule of thumb — if the town has a post office (the Montanan's definition of a town in rural areas) then there should be a bar in which you can quench your thirst.

If you like more than beer, no worries, Montana craft alcohol includes seltzers, ciders, and even kombucha. You'll also find a few hard alcohol distilleries in the larger towns. There are even some vineyards that provide locally sourced wine which can usually be found in the local grocery store.

Montana is a great place for camping, there are plenty of camp sites in the state. Prices are reasonable, but the sites are often rather spartan. Sites generally accommodate both tents and RVs.

Montana is safer than most when it comes to violent and personal crime.

The state suffers from one of the highest highway and road death rates in the country. Long-distance travel over great amounts of time resulting in fatigue, hazardous winter road conditions, distances from emergency services, and alcohol consumption contribute to the high number of deaths on Montana's highways. Montana famously experimented with having no speed limit on rural highways in the 1990s, and you may come across people who still drive that way. This is not to say it's unsafe to drive in Montana — just beware. If you are unused to driving winding mountain roads or driving in extremely hazardous snow/wind/ice/rain/sleet conditions, do not do so. Wait for the weather to clear — it may result in a good story, those 12 hours you spent at a truck stop with some friends waiting for a pass to clear.

If you must drive in winter conditions, be prepared. Always carry water, snack foods, a small first aid kit and a space blanket for emergencies. Cellphone coverage can be unreliable in places, especially the numerous mountain passes. Many rural roads have no cellphone coverage, so don't rely on always having quick emergency communication. If you become stranded, stay in your car, turn on your hazard lights, and wait for help.

There is a lot of potentially-dangerous wildlife around the state, including deer, elk, moose, black bears, brown (grizzly) bears, bison, and coyotes. These animals are wild, and do not tolerate people with cameras getting close, much less trying to put their kid on the bison. Most animals will avoid humans by our scent or noise, although beware of deer along the roads. When camping, always keep food in your car, or hung from a tall tree. Tents are like tissue paper to a hungry bear.

Western Montana is hit by major forest fires toward the middle and end of summer. While it's very unlikely you will be directly in the path of one, they can significantly degrade the air quality. If one is headed toward you and you are ordered to evacuate, do it.

Montanans treasure their state, loving it for the recreational opportunities, wide open spaces, and the friendly nature of their neighbors. They, in general, welcome tourists and travelers, and will be glad to let you in on cool places to go, the best hike to take, or their favorite fishing hole.

Any disrespect of land and nature will not be tolerated. When enjoying everything Montana has to offer, please respect the lands, waterways and wildlife by following common sense. Don't litter, pollute or otherwise upset the landscape any more than you must, and though it is a cliche, do not feed the wildlife. In general follow the principles of Leave no trace camping and you should be fine.

• North Dakota - Montana's northeastern neighbor is America's least visited state, but its isolation provides opportunities for uncrowded visits to the state's hills and lakes, badlands, plains, and old frontier forts.
• South Dakota - Home to such natural and cultural wonders as Badlands National Park, Wind Cave National Park and Mount Rushmore, Montana's southeastern neighbor offers a surprising amount for travelers to see and do.
• Wyoming - Most of Yellowstone National Park is in Montana's southern neighbor, so you'll obviously not just want to visit the small section that's in Montana. Montana is not only on the north side of Yellowstone, but to the west also. West Yellowstone is one of the major entrances to the park, and the Wyoming border is just two and a half miles away.
• Idaho - Montana's western neighbor is a rugged state, with snow-capped mountains, whitewater rivers, forests, high desert, and plenty of wilderness.

Montana is the only state that borders more than two Canadian provinces. From west to east:

• British Columbia - Crossing into Canada via US-93 (from Kalispell) leads into the mountainous terrain of southeastern British Columbia.
• Alberta - This Canadian province offers everything from the beauty of the Rockies to the serene flatness of prairie to the wilderness of the northern forests.
• Saskatchewan - The southern portion of Saskatchewan is predominantly prairie (with a reputation for being very flat) known for its seemingly endless fields of wheat.