Mount St. Helens Voyage Tips and guide

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Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument is a United States national monument in southwest Washington State that was the site of a massive volcanic eruption on 18 May 1980. In 1982, the President and Congress created the 110,000-acre (445-km²) National Volcanic Monument, within the Gifford Pinchot National Forest, for research, recreation, and education.

See volcanoes for background information.

On March 20, 1980, 46.1911-122.19441 Mount St. Helens awakened from over 100 years of dormancy with a magnitude 4.1 earthquake which began a series of events leading to eruption. Steam and ash started erupting on March 27, and over the next two months the north side of the mountain started bulging at the rate of 5–6 ft (1.5–1.8 m) a day.

On May 18, 1980, at 8:32AM, a magnitude 5.1 earthquake caused the bulging north face to collapse in one of the largest landslides in recorded history. The highly pressurized magma burst forth in an explosive eruption, sending super-heated volcanic gas and ash across a large portion of the United States, destroying hundreds of square miles of forest, and killing 57 people. This was a VEI-5 event, one of the largest eruptions of the 20th century and the most destructive in United States history.

Life quickly started to return to the barren landscape surrounding the mountain. However, as the steam eruptions starting in October 2004 illustrated, the danger of another catastrophic eruption is ever present. Visiting Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument is to simultaneously witness the result of catastrophic destruction and see the result of rebirth.

Mount St. Helens is a typical stratovolcano, the volcanic form most familiar from photographs of their typically conical profiles. The great 1980 eruption destroyed most of the volcanic cone, leaving a huge amphitheater on the north side that is best seen from the Johnston Ridge observatory and visitor center. Volcanic activity in 2004-05 built a new lava dome within this amphitheater, visible from the "VolcanoCam" at the observatory but not yet large enough to replace the destroyed cone.

St. Helens is still glaciated to some extent, despite its reduced altitude. One unexpected and remarkable feature is Loowit Falls, a waterfall that emerges directly from the amphitheater bearing meltwater from a glacier within the crater. This falls can be seen (use binoculars) from the observatory, seeming to emerge as though from the surface of the moon.

It's easy to see the recovery of the ecosystem since the eruption. Plants that sprouted from buried soil and late lying snow banks have gradually spread, transforming a gray-brown landscape to green. Over time, these survivors have been joined by legions of colonizers as wind-blown seeds of weedy plants like fireweed and pearly everlasting have taken root on shattered hillsides. In spring the monument glows with the purple blossoms of penstemon and lupine. By late summer, magenta fireweed and patches of cream-colored pearly everlasting frame the blown down forest. In autumn, monument breezes will dance with cotton-covered seeds as life continues its march across the blast zone.

Watch for animals that have taken up residence in the developing forest. The once silent blast zone is punctuated by the calls of killdeer and red-winged blackbirds that have made their homes in lush shoreline vegetation. Red-tailed hawks can be spotted hunting for abundant mouse populations while osprey dive for trout in blast zone lakes. The open valleys and hillsides are a favorite feeding ground for North American elk. If you listen you can sometimes catch the echo of a whistling elk or maybe the howl of a lonely coyote.

Most viewpoints on the monument's north, east, and south sides can be reached from Memorial Day until snow closes the roads, usually in late October. Trails are generally open from June through October, although some lower elevation trails can be hiked all year. The Mount St. Helens Visitor Center (Highway 504 milepost 5) operated by Washington State Parks is open during the winter, except winter holidays.

• Park website

Mount St. Helens can be visited as a longish day trip from Seattle or Portland, or more conveniently as a side-trip while traveling between the two cities.

The West Side, including each visitor center and views of the crater, is accessed from State Route 504 (WA-504). This is the most popular way into the park.

• From Interstate 5, take Exit 49 at Castle Rock, about 2 hr 15 min north of Portland and two hours south of Seattle.
• From Interstate 5, take Exit 63 to Toledo. This is a slightly shorter drive from Seattle, but is not recommended for the initial trip up the mountain, as it bypasses the main visitor center near Castle Rock.

The South Side, including Ape Cave, is accessed from Forest Road 90 (FR-90).

• From Interstate 5, take Exit 21 at Woodland for State Route 503 (WA-503). SR-503 becomes Forest Road 90 (FR-90) past Cougar and goes along the south side of Mount St. Helens, and connects to Forest Road 25 (FR-25).
• From I-84 and the Columbia River, take Exit 64 for Hood River/White Salmon, and cross over the Hood River/White Salmon Bridge to State Route 14 (WA-14). In Carson, go west 18 mi (29 km) to Wind River Rd, which becomes FR-30/Meadow Creek Rd in Gifford Pinchot NF. 29.5 mi (47.5 km) north of Carson, turn left to Curly Creek Rd (FR-90).

The East Side, including Windy Ridge and Spirit Lake, is accessed from Forest Road 25 (FR-25). During the winter FR-25 is closed to due to standing snow accumulation (no plowing through there) in high altitudes. Each route takes roughly the same amount of time from Spokane, though the quality of the roads are best on the US-12 route.

• From US-12, west from Yakima, turn south on WA-131 in Randle, halfway between Yakima and I-5. WA-131 becomes Forest Road 25 (FR-25) a few miles south of from US-12.
• From I-84 and the Columbia River, take Exit 64 for Hood River/White Salmon, and cross over the Hood River/White Salmon Bridge to State Route 14 (WA-14). In Carson, go west 18 mi (29 km) to Wind River Rd, which becomes FR-30/Meadow Creek Rd in Gifford Pinchot NF. 29.5 mi (47.5 km) north of Carson, turn left to Curly Creek Rd (FR-90). Go west 6 mi (9.7 km) to FR-25.

There are no gas stations past the 18-mile point (from I-5) on WA-504, or on any Forest Roads (FR). The Shell station in the Kid Valley (8 mi east of Toutle) is the last chance to buy fuel (including diesel). Cheaper gas is available near I-5 at Castle Rock. The round trip distance to the end of the highway (Johnston Ridge) from this point is 66.5 mi (107.5 km).

At higher elevations, the local Forest Roads (FR) are not plowed or maintained in winter and are therefore closed during the winter. The closures are typically Nov-Apr, but can be longer or shorter depending on the amount of snow.

Monument passes are sold for single-day admission to the visitor centers along Washington 504 (Mar 2018):

• 16 years or older: US $8
• 15 years or below: Free.

There are several passes for groups traveling together in a private vehicle or individuals on foot/bike that provide free entry to Mount St. Helens and all national parks, as well as some national monuments, national wildlife refuges, and national forests:

• The $80 Annual Pass (valid for twelve months from date of issue) can be purchased by anyone. Military personnel can obtain a free pass by showing a Common Access Card (CAC) or Military ID.
• The $80 Senior Pass (valid for the life of the holder) is available to U.S. citizens or permanent residents age 62 or over. Applicants must provide documentation of citizenship and age. This pass also provides a 50% discount on some park amenities. Seniors can also obtain a $20 annual pass.
• The free Access Pass (valid for the life of the holder) is available to U.S. citizens or permanent residents with permanent disabilities. Applicants must provide documentation of citizenship and permanent disability. This pass also provides a fifty percent discount on some park amenities.
• The free Volunteer Pass is available to individuals who have volunteered 250 or more hours with federal agencies that participate in the Interagency Pass Program.
• The free Annual 4th Grade Pass (valid for September to August of the 4th grade school year) allows entry to the bearer and any accompanying passengers in a private non-commercial vehicle. Registration at the Every Kid Outdoors website is required.

The National Park Service offers free admission to all national parks on five days every year:

• Martin Luther King Jr. Day (third Monday in January); next observance is January 20, 2025
• The first day of National Park Week (third Saturday in April); next observance is April 19, 2025
• The National Park Service Birthday (August 25)
• National Public Lands Day (fourth Saturday in September); next observance is September 28, 2024
• Veterans Day (November 11)

There are four visitor centers along WA-504. Oddly, they are operated by different agencies. The centers include video presentations, exhibits, and information desks. From west to east:

• 46.2944-122.82221 Mount St. Helens Visitor Center at Silver Lake, 3029 Spirit Lake Hwy, Castle Rock, WA (about 5 miles east of Castle Rock, across the highway from Seaquest State Park), ☏ +1 360 274-0962. Open daily, 9AM-4PM, closed New Years, Thanksgiving, and Christmas days. This visitor center provides visitors with an introduction to the history of the area. Operated by Washington State Parks. 
• 46.308624-122.3960192 Forest Learning Center, 17000 Spirit Lake Highway, Toutle (at milepost 33). May-Sep: daily 10AM-4PM. Tells the story of the recovery of forests, fish and wildlife following the eruption. Operated by Weyerhauser Company. Free. (updated Nov 2024)
• 46.297578-122.2667143 Science and Learning Center at Coldwater (Coldwater Ridge Visitor Center) (at milepost 43). May-Oct: daily 10AM-4PM; winter: Sa Su 10AM-4PM. Get information about exploring the monument, learn about education programs offered, or shop at the bookstore. Operated by USFS. $5/vehicle. (updated Nov 2024)
• 46.275554-122.216064 Johnston Ridge Observatory (52 miles east of Castle Rock). Mid-May — Oct: daily. This observatory provides good views of the north face of the volcano. Well within the blast zone, this is as close to the mountain as you can get by car, only 5 mi (8.0 km) from the summit. There's also a large indoor visitor center with an auditorium and gift shop. Interpretive talks available. Do not walk onto the observation deck without first going inside the center and obtaining a wrist band, or you will be cited. (Admission includes both the visitor center and its outside deck.) $8. Interagency recreation passes accepted. 

Along the way, there are numerous viewpoints and turnoffs for taking photos along the highway.

• 46.1083-122.21141 Ape Cave (from FR 90, turn onto FR 83 for 3 miles, then turn left onto FR 8303; drive 1.5 miles to Apes' Headquarters on the left.). The third longest lava tube in North America, at 2.5 mi (4.0 km) long, formed 2000 years ago as a flow of lava cooled from the outside and drained from the center. A paved accessible trail leads 3/4 miles into the cave. For the more adventurous, the 1.5-mile upper cave route leads to a climb up an eight foot rock wall and scramble over rock piles, then an exit and a 1.5-mile above-ground hike back to the parking lot. Bring two sources of light per person, sturdy shoes, and warm clothing, cave temperature is 42 °F (6 °C) year-round. In summer, a small information station offers lantern rentals and sales items to ticket holders. Reservation required. (updated Nov 2024)
• 46.2376-122.14422 Loowit Falls Hike (From FR 25, turn onto FR 99, and drive 17 miles to Windy Ridge viewpoint.). 9.2 miles, 1200 feet gain. A hike to the waterfall that emerges directly from the volcanic amphitheater. This falls, visible from the observatory, seems to emerge as though from the surface of the moon. The trail is closed during volcanic activity. (updated Nov 2024)
• Loowit Trail. 30 miles, 6000 feet gain. A trail circling the mountain, through deep gullies left by the eruption. There is little water, some sketchy sections of loose pumice, and almost no cover from sun. (updated Nov 2024)

The summit is open for climbing whenever the volcano is not particularly active. The climb is strenuous, but is considered non-technical as it does not require additional skills beyond a high level of fitness and comfort scrambling over loose sand, ash, and rock.

Everyone must have a climbing permit to be above 4,800 feet elevation on Mount St. Helens. Permits are reserved through Recreation.gov.

From April 1 to October 31, climbing permits are available through advance reservation only. Permits are released on the 1st of each month, for dates one month in the future (i.e., permits for April are released on March 1). Permits are in demand, and weekend dates can sell out within seconds after becoming available. Unsold permits may be purchased online until 24-hours before the date of the climb. The fee is $20 per climber.

From November 1 to March 31, permits are free and self-issued at the trailhead.

There are two popular routes:

• 46.1461-122.18353 Climber’s Bivouac/Monitor Ridge (Summer route) (From FR 90 turn on FR 83 and continue 3 miles, then stay left onto FR 81 and go about a mile to Forest Spur Road 830. Go right at FR 830 and drive about .4 miles.). 10 miles, 4500 feet gain. the primary route used during the summer to reach the summit. (updated Nov 2024)
• 46.1308-122.16964 Marble Mountain/Worm Flows (Winter route) (From FR 90, turn on FR 83 and continue approximately 6 miles to the Marble Mountain Sno-Park). 12 miles, 5700 feet gain. The most direct route to the summit during the winter season. (updated Nov 2024)

There are no restaurants within the park. The nearest dining options are in the towns of Toutle from the west, Cougar from the south, and Randle from the northeast.

Water is available from the visitor centers.

There are no hotels within the park. The town of Toutle, located to the west of the park, and US-12 between Packwood & Morton, offer numerous options.

There are no developed campgrounds within the park.

There are campgrounds near I-5 and along WA-504 near Toutle. There are also National Forest Service campsites south of Randle on FR-25, and along FR-90 and the Lewis River near Cougar.

There are wilderness backpacking campsites throughout the park. A Backcountry Camping Permit is required for overnight camping in the Mount Margaret Backcountry, the area north of Coldwater and Spirit Lakes, see Recreation.gov for details.

Volcano safety is, to put it mildly, a controversial subject; see the article on Volcanoes for some of the issues. Compared to many other active volcanoes, Mount St. Helens has been studied extensively, and therefore has a relatively well-defined "safety envelope" that allows informed decision making as regards trail closures, etc. Even St. Helens, however, is prone to bouts of unexpectedly violent behavior, as for example on 8 March 2005 when an explosive event sent ash and steam to elevations above 35,000 feet (10 km) essentially without warning. The monument, therefore, has established a policy regarding road and trail closures that at first glance appears unnecessarily conservative, but it is not. Believe it. The closures aren't there simply to inconvenience and irritate you. If a trail is closed due to eruptive hazard, stay off the trail.

Other than the volcanic activity, St. Helens poses basically the usual set of hazards associated with mountainous country: changeable weather, potential for road closures due to snow in the winter, etc. One extra thing to be aware of is that much of the area on the north side of the mountain, particularly the northeast, does not yet have many travel services, even things as basic as gas stations. When leaving the main roads to head for the observatory, or particularly the Windy Ridge viewpoint and trailhead, it's wise to have a full gas tank.

Toutle is the closest town to the park along the Spirit Lake Highway, offering amenities such as hotels and restaurants. Once back to I-5, the nearest cities are Kelso and Longview.

Visit the major cities nearby:

• Portland – Oregon's largest city and cultural capital
• Seattle – The home of Starbucks features an eclectic mix of people and a vibrant city life

See the other volcanoes of the Cascade Range, before they blow up too:

• Mount Baker — The ski resort that took the snowfall world record from Mount Rainier
• Mount Hood — The backdrop for the Portland skyline, with a lodge used to film The Shining
• Mount Rainier National Park — The tallest mountain the Cascades and the most "prominent" mountain in the lower 48 states

See Washington's National Parks:

• North Cascades National Park – Home to 50% of all glaciers in the lower 48 states. The undeveloped wilderness is a favorite for climbers and backpackers
• Olympic National Park — Temperate rain forest, rugged Olympic Mountains and wild coastline, this is the only UNESCO World Heritage site in the Pacific Northwest