Naolinco is a small mountain town close to the Gulf of Mexico in the eastern part of Veracruz. It is a peaceful town with a picturesque colonial-era downtown, ideal for strolling and soaking in the small town vibe. The town is popular with nature lovers who come for the forested mountain scenery with a nearby waterfall. The town is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.
Understand
[edit]A historically Totonac region, the first Spaniards under the command of Hernando Cortes arrived in 1519. The Spanish allied themselves with the Totonac people, then moved inland to attack the Aztec strongholds. The town was established a few years later in 1526.
Today, the town has a population of about 9,500 (2020).
Get in
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The nearest airport with commercial flights is in Veracruz. From there, take a bus to Xalapa, then a second-class bus (or taxi) to Naolinco.
By bus
[edit]Second-class buses from Xalapa take 90 minutes to reach Naolinco and cost M$30.
By car
[edit]Naolinco (also known as Naolinco de Victoria) is 30 to 35 km from Xalapa, depending on which road you choose. Using the Misantla road (northwest from Xalapa) is slightly shorter and faster than the Alto Lucero road (east from Xalapa then north). Either route will take about 1 hour.
Get around
[edit]The town is small enough to get around easily by walking. Taxis are readily available and you can find them near the main plaza, or have your hotel staff call for one. Uber and other ride-hailing apps do not work in Naolinco.
See
[edit]- 1 Parroquia de San Mateo Apóstol (Church of St Matthew the Apostle), Privada Pabello Acosta, Centro. The parish was established in the 16th century by Franciscan missionaries, but the current church was completely rebuilt in the early 20th century in a neo-gothic style.
- 2 Parque Hidalgo (Zocalo), Av. Revolucion, Centro. The town's main plaza is an enjoyable square with brick-paved pathways radiating out from a central kiosco (bandstand). Many iron park benches under tall pine trees.
- 3 Cementerio Naolinqueño (Naolinco Cemetery), Agustín de Iturbide, Centro. Daily 08:00 - 18:00. This is a really cool cemetery that people are just dying to get into. It's one of Mexico's most beautiful cemeteries with a huge number of memorial statues, many atop elevated crypts. The cemetery is also the site of Day of the Dead celebrations on the night of November 1 featuring singing hymns and praises to the dead. The singing begins in the cemetery's El Descanso chapel. A special prayer is said for the solitary souls who have nobody who remembers them. The Day of the Dead celebrations in Naolinco are unique in Mexico and have been submitted by INAH as a candidate World Heritage Site. Free.
- 4 Monument to the Shoemaker (Monumento al Zapatero), Niños Heroes. Naolinco is known for its quality leather products, and visitors to the city shouldn't be surprised to see a towering bronze monumental Statue dedicated to the town's shoemakers. Someday the belt makers, purse makers, and leather motorcycle jacket makers might get their monuments, but for now, its the shoemakers who are emblematic of Naolinco's leather industry.
Do
[edit]- 1 Parque Fidelidad Las Cascadas (Waterfalls), Carr. a las Cascadas. Just outside town is a set of waterfalls with a scenic overlook (mirador) for those who would rather just take pictures then hike the mountain trail for a close-up of the falls.
Festivals
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- Fiestas de Naolinco (Festival de San Mateo) - 2-week celebration of the town's patron saint that begins on September 21. The celebration features the traditional Danza de Moros y Cristianos, which commemorates the historic struggle of Christians to expel the Moors from Spain. It also features La Negreada, which pits followers of Pilate (known as Negros) against supporters of St James (Santiago). Masked characters perform a traditional dance, accompanied by flute and drums music.
- Day of the Dead - November 1 is the day when Mexicans in all parts of the country honor the memories of their deceased family members with vigils in the local cemetery and building altars (called ofrendas). In Naolinco, the celebration is unique in that it includes singing songs to entertain the departed souls, a tradition called La Cantada.
Buy
[edit]Local artisans are known for quality leatherwork, a rustic orange-hue barro ceramic, and colorful masks used during various celebrations (particularly the Fiestas de Naolinco. A number of shoe and leather products stores are located just north of the town plaza and close to the Monument to the Shoemaker.
A tianguis (traditional pop-up market) takes place Sundays in the Plazuela Sayago.
Eat
[edit]- 1 Restaurante Doña Josefina, Plaza de Armas 8, Centro, ☏ +52 279 821 5093. Daily 09:00 - 19:30. Regional cuisine served in an elegant dining room. The food is incredible with an emphasis on regional cooking. Their moles are the best in town and their chilaquiles with chicken and mole is a unique spin on a classic breakfast dish. The shredded pork in chileseco sauce is satisfyingly spicy. In-house bakery sells fresh bread and pastries to go. An artesanias shop at the entrance sells local leather and ceramic crafts. Cash strongly preferred. M$200.
- 2 La Quinta Karla Josefina, Insurgentes 5, Centro, ☏ +52 279 101 0130. Daily 10:00 - 18:00. Large contemporary dining room serving regional cuisine with an emphasis on moles. Try the Enchiladas de Pipian Con Cecina or the Costillas (baked ribs). Unusual desserts including fruit filled empanadas (fig, pineapple, blueberry). Cash only (no credit cards and definitely no payment apps). M$250.
- 3 Restaurant Marce, Nicolás Bravo 15, Centro, ☏ +52 279 821 5013. Daily 08:00 - 19:00. Family-run restaurant in business over 70 years. Regional cuisines with specialties including Chiles Rellenos elevated to an art form and served in various styles, like a wonderfully smoky Chipotle Relleno. Hearty home cooking like abuela used to make. M$150.
- 4 La Casona, Pl. de Armas 11, Centro, ☏ +52 279 106 6193. Daily 09:30 - 22:00. Traditional Mexican and regional cuisines served in a modernized colonial building with stone walls, Mexican artesanias, and a delightful outdoor courtyard dining area. You can order off the menu, or take advantage of the buffet with its extensive selection (not to mention being able to stuff yourself by going back for seconds). M$200.
Drink
[edit]Sleep
[edit]There are not many places to stay in Naolinco, though some rooms may be available through Airbnb.
- 1 Hotel del Parque Naolinco, Plaza de Armas 7, Centro, ☏ +52 279 821 5229. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Traditional colonial style hotel with period architectural detail (iron fixtures, columns, archways, etc.) Rooms are clean, but small and minimally furnished though some have balconies. Parking is on the street (no lot at the hotel).
- 2 Hacienda San Fernando, Carr. Miahuatlan-Naolinco, ☏ +52 555 456 4252. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Hotel with cabanas on the north side of town, beautifully maintained gardens. Rooms are comfortable, clean and well equipped with spacious bathrooms, cable TV, and mini-fridge. Outdoor area has grills available.