Ninh Binh (Vietnamese: Ninh Bình, or officially Hoa Lư) is a city of 300,000 people (2025) in Ninh Binh Province of North Vietnam. The area features dramatic karst scenery, sometimes described as the "inland Ha Long Bay". It was also an ancient capital of Vietnam, from 968 to 1009.
Understand
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A few kilometers west of the city, water has eroded a small mountain range of limestone into a karst, a geological region of steep peaks and extensive caves. What distinguishes Ninh Binh from other karsts in North Vietnam is how the valleys between the peaks are largely flooded, creating a system of waterways throughout the formation. Centered on this spectacular limestone karst landscape is the Trang An Scenic Landscape Complex, a 
UNESCO World Heritage Site inscribed as a mixed natural and cultural property.
The archeological remains found in caves trace human presence to 30,000 years ago. The heritage site includes the more recent Hoa Lư, the ancient capital of Vietnam. In the late 10th century, Hoa Lư was the the economic, political and cultural center of Đại Cồ Việt, an independent Vietnamese polity founded in 968 A.D. The narrow caves and waterways were an ideal foundation for a highly-defensible citadel. The city was never directly attacked.
In 2025, Ninh Bình city and Hoa Lư district merged to form Hoa Lư city. This administrative re-designation is not readily apparent to travelers, as the city is still widely referred to as Ninh Binh. Besides, there isn't much to do in the city itself, apart from drinking beer with the locals. Most international travelers stay in the guesthouses and resorts built near the edge of the mountains, at Tam Coc (9 km southwest of the city along Hwy 1) and Trang An (west of the city along Trang An/Hang Mua Rd).
Get in
[edit]By plane
[edit]Noi Bai (Hanoi) International Airport is the nearest major airport, about a 2-hour drive away. Taxis from Noi Bai cost USD70.
By taxi
[edit]Taxis from Hanoi cost USD48.
By bus
[edit]There are regular buses from Hanoi's southern bus terminal (Giap Bat) that leave every 15 min (or whenever full) 70,000 dong (June 2016). Journey time is 1½-2½ hr depending on traffic. Buy a ticket in the ticket hall or you will likely have to pay more than 70,000 dong.
Open tour buses will drop passengers off upon request but Ninh Binh is not a regular stop. Most open tour buses from Hanoi will arrive at 21:30. Tour buses from Hue arrive between 04:00 and 06:00, depending on the company. Specify whether the bus drops off in central Ninh Binh or in Tam Coc.
By train
[edit]1 Ninh Binh railway station 
connects to northbound and southbound trains.
Daytime southbound trains to Dong Hoi and Hue (23:00 arrival) depart at 11:21 and can be enjoyed in 2nd class seats rather than sleepers for those looking to avoid overnight journeys and long-haul buses.
Get around
[edit]
By car
[edit]Guesthouses may provide organised tours by car for USD20 per day. Taxis are also common and not different from the ones in Hanoi or Saigon, although a little cheaper.
By motorbike
[edit]- See also: Vietnam by motorcycle
A motorbike is the best way to view Ninh Binh and the surrounding area. A motorbike can be rented for about 100,000 dong per day, a motorcycle[dead link] driver/guide to take you around the sites for about USD10-20 a day.
The roads in general are quite well maintained and not overly busy, but the junctions, just like everywhere else in Vietnam, can be dangerous. Renting your own motorbike is possible but not without risk.
By bicycle
[edit]Cycling is a good option, as the lowlands are flat and vehicle traffic is manageable. Guesthouses hire out bicycles for about 40,000 dong/day.
Good routes include the country roads north and west of Tam Coc, and the Trang An/Hang Mua Road connecting Tam Coc to Trang An and Hoa Lu.
On foot
[edit]The town of Ninh Binh is quite small and walkable. However, most of the interesting sights are outside the city and spread out over several kilometers.
See
[edit]Tam Coc area
[edit]The area around Tam Coc is beautiful, and is best viewed from the back of a motorbike or by bicycle.
- 1 Bich Dong Pagoda (Chùa Bích Động) (2 km west of Tam Coc). Three temples carved into a limestone mountain, dating from the 15th-century reign of Le Thai To. The lower temple has a stone next to it that resonates when tapped, plus a Buddha footprint. The middle temple has an 18th-century bell, a cave and resonating pillars. The top temple has a view of the surrounding countryside, which is good for sunsets. Free. Parking 20,000 dong, or free on the square in front of the entrance bridge if you buy a drink for 25,000 dong, or leave the bike farther away from the entrance. The lady charging the fee may try to overcharge by implying that it also includes the entrance to the temples, but this is a lie.
- 2 Hidden Valley (Dộng Thiên Cung) (past the entrance of Bich Dong Pagoda and the lotus lake, on the right side). Only very few tourists wander into this secluded valley. There is a shop selling some drinks and ice cream, but which might be closed. There is a boat advertising a tour into a 350m deep cave, a wide peaceful field with some goats and then there is the 15min walking tour through a cave. The guide babbles about in Vietnamese only, shows various fossil shells and funny shaped wall markings, stalagmites and stalactites and even turns your head into the right direction to look using his hands. Cave tour 30,000 dong, boat tour 50,000 dong.
- 3 Mua Cave (Hang Múa), Khe Dau Ha, Hoa Lu (5 km from Ninh Binh). The cave here is an afterthought; the main draws are the two hilltop viewpoints. 500 steps will lead you to the first peak, an unimpressive temple with incredibly stunning views over Tam Coc and Ninh Binh’s countryside, including a large lotus flower field at the bottom (should bloom in June/July). On the second slightly higher peak, there is a long dragon statue which you can climb around.
Caution when arriving by bike or motorbike: On the street leading up to the entrance gate there are multiple places trying to convince you that they're the official parking spot, some even utilizing whistles or intimidation tactics. Don't listen to them, you can drive right up to the gate and park there for 10,000 dong. 100,000 dong entrance fee + 10,000 dong bicycle/motorbike parking fee. - 4 Thung Nham Bird Park (Thung Nham Bird Valley), Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Tam Coc.
Trang An area
[edit]
- 5 Bai Dinh Temple (Chùa Bái Đính) (11 km NW of Ninh Binh). 07:00 to 20:00, entrance to the large tower until 17:00. Huge Buddhist complex, the largest in Vietnam, with the largest pagoda tower of Vietnam (100 m high, has elevator). Most of it was built between 2003 and 2010, so it's in exceptionally good shape. A visit can easily take 4 hours due to the sheer size of the complex. At night, most buildings are lit up, creating absolutely magnificient sights. Access is free but notoriously difficult without taking a shuttle e-mobile from the parking lot, because the parking lot is 3 km from the entrance, at the completely opposite end of the precincts. For the shuttles, there are several options.
If you want to see the best building sights or came mainly for the large tower, take option 2 for 150,000 dong (option 1 for 100,000 dong if you don't want to go up the tower) to the northern main gate and walk counterclockwise around the walls. After 15-30 minutes you will have seen the best views and be at the tower. From there you can continue to the Buddha on the hill or to the absurdly large main hall if desired. Once you have seen enough, return to the west of the main gate and the shuttle will bring you back to the parking lot.
If on the other hand you come here for the cultural and religious value of the site, or want to walk as little as possible, take the hop-on-hop-off bus with option 3 for 250,000 dong, bringing you clockwise around the interior of the complex. On the mountain in the back you can visit the original ancient temple buildings. Free entrance, motorbike parking 15,000 dong, shuttle e-mobiles with fee.
- 6 Hoa Lu Ancient Capital (Cố đô Hoa Lư) (6 km north of Ninh Binh, then 6 km west of Hwy 1). The ancient capital during Dinh (968-80) and Le dynasties (980-1009). Little remains from this period, but there are a few large temples and monuments built from the 1600s on: the temple of Dinh Tien Hoang, the temple of King Le Dai Hahn, Nhat Tru Pagoda, and on top of a hill, Dinh Tien Hoang's tomb. Consider a guide, as there is little interpretive information (or even useful maps) onsite. There are also boat trips on the river to Xuyen Thuy cave, less spectacular than other caves in the area. 20,000 dong. Entrance to Xuyen Thuy cave is 15,000 dong.
- 7 Hoa Son Cave Temple (Chùa và động Hoa Sơn).
- 8 Khe Coc Island (Đảo Khê Cốc). The former filming location of the village from Kong: Skull Island, repurposed in 2024 as an outdoor cultural museum. There isn't much there yet. 20,000 dong, 300,000 dong combo ticket with Trang An.
Van Long area
[edit]
Further afield
[edit]- 11 Bear Sanctuary Ninh Binh, Cuc Phuong - Bai Dinh Rd, Ky Phu commune, Nho Quan district (near Cuc Phuong), ☏ + 84 229 366 6388, [email protected]. 09:00-17:00 daily. It was built by the animal welfare organisation Four Paws opened for visitors in 2019. It covers 5.5 ha, and plans to expand to 10 ha and open an education centre. Different from other sanctuaries, visitors will not be able to enter the whole sanctuary. A path leads the visitors above some enclosures to allow them to observe the bears from a distance.
- 12 Phat Diem Cathedral (24 km SW of Ninh Binh in the village of Kim Son). Cathedral known for its scale and its oriental style. Completed in 1891. One of the earliest areas to be reached by missionaries; Portuguese priests were here in 1627.
Do
[edit]Boat tours
[edit]
The best way to see the karst landscape, lined with slow-moving rivers and punctured by networks of water caves, is from a boat tour. The geology is similar to the more famous Ha Long Bay, but is more accessible and much less touristy.
The best times to go are the morning and late afternoon, when there's fewer tour buses from Hanoi and it's cooler and shadier. Try not to board a boat that is loaded with boxes at departure. The boxes are filled with handicrafts, and during the return trip the rowers might suddenly turn into pushy sellers.
There are three places where you can hire a paddle boat and leisurely cruise through some of Vietnam's most spectacular scenery:
- 1 Tam Coc. Daily, last boat starts at 17:30 summer, 16:30 winter. The most famous landscape of Ninh Binh. Boats begin at the village of Van Lam and proceed through a scenic landscape dominated by rice fields and karst towers. The route includes floating through three natural caves (Hang Cả, Hang Hai, and Hang Ba), the largest of which is 125-m long with its ceiling about 2-m high above the water. Vast limestone cliffs rise out of the rice paddies. 150,000 dong per boat (maximum 2 foreigners per boat), plus admission of 120,000 dong per person.
- 2 Trang An (Tràng An, Trang An Ecotourism Complex) (7 km west of Ninh Binh). Daily, boats start from 07:00-16:30. The most extensive waterway tour in Ninh Binh. Many tourists prefer this trip to Tam Coc as there are many more caves to pass through and not as many hawkers. After buying a ticket, find your way to the boarding area, and decide on your route. (Do not agonize over your decision, as each route includes plenty of temples, caves, and landscapes.) Each is about 3 hours, so make sure to carry sun protection, water and some nibbles (restrooms are available at each temple stop). An employee will pair you to a boat with a rower, and fill the boat with about four passengers (smaller parties will be grouped up). Once underway, you can help paddle, or take in the scenery. In case of rain, there are two big umbrellas on board too. The caves are tight in places, so watch your head. Be aware that most caves have been widened in order for the boats to pass through, compromising their natural beauty. 250,000 dong. Parking fee of 15,000 dong for motorbikes or 10,000 dong for bicycles.
- Route 1 goes through the most caves (9) and visits 3 temples / pagodas.
- Route 2 goes through 4 caves and 3 temples. It is a little shorter and less popular than the other routes, which may be nice if you're squeezed for time, or want to minimize the number of bright orange life vests in your photos.
- Route 3 goes through 3 caves and 3 temples, including Dot cave, at 1km the longest cave in the area, and passes through the filming location of the 2017 monster movie Kong: Skull Island.
- 3 Vân Long Nature Reserve.
Buy
[edit]There is a fresh fruit market next to the main market across the bridge.
Eat
[edit]Mountain goat (de nui) meat is a local speciality, often eaten with fried rice (com chien). Another local speciality is com chay, which is the burnt rice off the bottom of the pot, served with pork. Duck is featured in many restaurants.
In town
[edit]The area near the train station has become a mini-backpacker area, and there are 4-5 backpacker cafes there with English menus and tourist prices (40,000-70,000 dong; coffee 15,000-20,000 dong). The three most popular restaurants are called "Good Food", "Cheap Good Food" and "Fast Food Cheap" (all on Hoang Hoa Tham).
- 1 Trung Tuyet Restaurant, 14 Hoang Hoa Tham (Half a block straight ahead from the train station entrance), ☏ +84 303 874 510. Open late. A few tables on the street and one of the few restaurants in the city that caters to Westerners. The menu offers 3 or 4 sizes of portions at different prices, however even the small sized portions are larger than in other towns. Coffee 20,000 dong, Fruit salad 30,000 dong. Yogurt 8,000 dong. Chicken with noodles 50,000 dong.
- 2 Pho bò 24, Le Hong Phong Street (From Tran Hung Dao about 200 meters on the left). A small restaurant for locals with the food cooked in front of you. A few tables on the street and few inside. Soups and noodle for 25,000 dong and 30,000 dong. Have an English menu.
Tam Coc and Trang An
[edit]Tam Coc is the backpacker hub, with a wide range of western food. Nearly every guesthouse and restaurant between Tam Coc and Trang An also offers the greatest hits of Vietnamese cuisine (pho, banh mi, fried rice, coffee), but with little to distinguish one place from another.
- 3 Aroma, Ninh Hải, Hoa Lư District (At the Eastern end of Tam Coc village), ☏ +84 229 3621 818. 10:00-22:00. Indian restaurant which is one of the few in town to have air-con. Excellent Indian food and snappy service. Enormous nan breads! Very reasonable prices given the quality.
- 4 Chookie's Beer Garden, Tam Coc - Bich Dong Road (700m from boat station on the way to Bich Dong Pagoda), [email protected]. Open from 09:00. Great place to relax and have a drink and something to eat. Good burgers, salads and Smoothies. Plenty of Vegan options too.
Drink
[edit]The city has plenty of bia hoi sellers along the river, open in the late afternoon and evenings. Tam Coc has a variety of outdoor backpacker bars.
Plenty of places sell a sugar cane drink with ice for about 5,000 dong.
Sleep
[edit]In town
[edit]There are a number of cheap hotels just outside the train station and next to the bus station. Other hotels are located near the city centre. As there is nothing to see in city, either area is suitable. The area near the train station has become a mini-backpacker district, complete with travel agents, touts, overpriced drinks and English-menu restaurants.
- Green Papaya Home Stay, Ngo 212, No. 54 (still listed on Google as Van Thanh No. 54) (On a small and quiet side road not far from the city centre), ☏ +84 306 250 800.
- Ngoc Anh Hotel, 30 Luong Van Tuy St, ☏ +84 303 883768. Family hotel, friendly staff, good location, rooms are clean, all rooms have air-con, en suite bath, cable TV with good reception, Wi-Fi. Deluxe rooms also have a computer, a fridge and balcony. There are 2 modern computers in the reception/restaurant area. The cheaper rooms are at 26 Luong Van Tuy and the more expensive at 30 Luong Van Tuy. USD12-27.
- Queen Mini Hotel, 21 Hoang Hoa Tham (one block in front of the train station). Near the train and bus station. It's popular, especially with French visitors, and often full. Rooms are clean enough, but can have insects. Wi-Fi in the lobby, but it doesn't reach all the rooms. The owner's refrain is "You pay now". They are affiliated with the Good Food Restaurant across the street. Be warned: there are four hotels sharing this name, and it's not clear if all of them are related: The Queen Mini (this one), the Queen Hotel (across the street, upscale and owned by the same family as the Queen Mini), the New Queen Mini Backpacker's Hostel (on the same street, often has grille down; they advertise rates of USD3 including breakfast!), and the New Queen Mini Hotel (two streets south). USD6-15.
- Thanh Binh Hotel, 31 Luong Van Tuy St, ☏ +84 308 72439. Some members of the staff are somewhat helpful and friendly. Possibility to rent motorbikes for USD6/day. Breakfast is not included. USD20 (double room).
- 37 P Minh Khai (on the eastbound road from the city center, next to a reservoir), ☏ +84 308 80970. Helpful owner. Good food, bicycle and motorbike rental, convenient location, and far enough from the main road to provide peace and quiet. USD15-35.
Tam Coc and Trang An
[edit]A backpacker district has sprouted near the wharf for the Tam Coc boat tours. Additionally, the Trang An Hang Mua Rd between Tam Coc and Trang An is lined almost continuously with small guesthouses and resorts.
- 1 Tam Coc Holiday Villa Hotel, Team 1, Van Lam Village, Ninh Hai Commune, Hoa Lu District, ☏ +84 2296279279, [email protected]. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. 14 rooms, 7 villas and 1 dormitory (5 beds). All hotel rooms have 2-way air conditioner, flat-screen TV, cable TV, wifi, minibar, bathroom, hair dryer. Tea, coffee and 2 free bottles of water daily. USD20.
Stay safe
[edit]When leaving your motorbike at the boat departure points, beware of thieves (such as removing a mirror while the motorbike is parked, then selling it back to you for 100,000 dong). Look for official parking areas to avoid such scams.
Go next
[edit]- Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam and cultural heart of the region.
- Ha Long Bay, the "seaside Ninh Binh".
- Cuc Phuong National Park, 45 km from Ninh Binh. A well-preserved rainforest with an Endangered Primates Rescue Centre and a botanical garden near the entrance. From the entrance you can drive, motorbike or cycle a further 20 km along a densely forested paved road, from which several bypaths lead you through the jungle to prehistoric trees and caves. The park is also perfect for seeing birds, butterflies, and orchids.