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Ouvéa Voyage Tips and guide

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    Ouvéa (also Uvea or Iaaï) is an island in Loyalty Islands, New Caledonia.


    Understand

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    Ouvéa cave hostage crisis

    One of the darker chapters of New Caledonian history occurred in 1988, when Kanak extremists on Ouvéa killed 4 gendarmes and took 27 hostage, demanding independence talks. The French government refused to negotiate and instead sent in the GIGN and other special forces, who stormed the cave and successfully freed the hostages. Two members of the military and 19 hostage-takers were killed, some allegedly execution-style after being captured alive. 2011 French docudrama Rebellion (French: L'Ordre et la Morale) tells the story in Hollywood style, although the film had to be filmed in French Polynesia due to local opposition and flopped at the box office.

    Ouvéa is a classic Maldives-style atoll, meaning a thin ring of coral around a sheltered central lagoon with stunning turquoise waters. Only the eastern half of the ring is above sea level, and at its southernmost tip, it is connected via a bridge to the island of Mouli (Mouly). The population of some 3,000 is scattered around the lagoon's edge and its blindingly white coral sand beaches, with the main settlement at Fayaoué, which has the island's solitary ATM, post office and police station (gendarmerie).

    Ouvéa is an independentist stronghold and has been the stage of more than its fair share of political violence, including the 1988 Ouvéa cave hostage crisis (see box) and the subsequent assassination of Kanak politician Jean-Marie Tjibaou. Nevertheless, the population is very friendly, including to French people. Expect to be greeted by anyone you will meet on the road.

    Talk

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    Most of the population speaks French, and basic English. There are many Japanese signs too (virtually everything in the tourist infrastructure is translated to English and Japanese).

    Uniquely in New Caledonia, Ouvéa has a native Polynesian population that speaks Fagauvea, a relative of the language spoken on the island of Wallis (ʻUvea) thousands of miles to the east. The Melanesian Iaaï language is also spoken.

    Get in

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    By plane

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    • 1 Ouvéa Airport (Aérodrome d'Ouvéa-Ouloup). Several flights a day to Nouméa with Air Calédonie. Tickets are rather expensive but, the earlier, the cheaper. The aerodrome has minimal facilities, with toilets. No Wi-Fi, no ATM. No shuttle nor bus. Arrange a shuttle with your accommodation or rent a car (also to be arranged in advance).

    By ferry

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    There are no scheduled ferry services to Ouvéa. Betico runs occasional services from Noumea (6 hours), often via neighboring Lifou.

    By boat

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    Unlike neighboring Lifou, cruise ships rarely visit Ouvéa, and a much publicized incident in 2019 where angry locals confronted a luxury yacht fishing in protected waters led to a temporary moratorium on yacht visits too. This has been lifted but you'll want to be sure to get permission before anchoring.

    Get around

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    There is no public transportation in Ouvéa. The island is too large to be walkable (almost 40 km from South West to North East), and perhaps too small to be done by car. The best option is probably by bicycle. The main road is in perfect condition.

    By car

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    By bicycle

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    Bicycle rental is expensive (often around 3000 F a day). The camping Le Petit corail rents bikes in good condition for 2000 F a day.

    See

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    • 1 Soap factory (near the ferry terminal). Free.
    • 2 Ouvéa memorial. Erected after the Ouvéa cave hostage-taking of 1988. Free.
    • 3 Pont de Mouli.
    • 4 Falaises de Lekiny. Impressive cliffs falling into turquoise water.
    • 5 Hanawa Blue Hole (Trou bleu d'Hanawa), +687 922207. Beautiful inland lake, but not suitable for swimming due to the steep cliffs. On private property, call ahead for access. 500F.
    • 6 Hulup caves (grotte Kong Hulup). Limestone caves near the airport. Zero facilities, bring a flashlight and a swimsuit. 2000 XPF for a guided tour.

    Do

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    Boat tours to the uninhabited islets of the atoll, known as the Pléiades du Sud (south) and Pléiades du Nord (north), are popular.

    • 1 Wetewea Kaï (St. Joseph, north tip of the island), +687 954799. Departures at 8 AM daily (bookings required). Full-day tours to the Pléiades du Nord. Manta ray spotting, snorkeling, fishing. The price includes lunch on a desert island. Some English spoken. Adult/child 10000/5000 XPF.
    • Swimming (except in the bay South from Pont de Mouli, where it is forbidden)

    Buy

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    • 1 ATM (near the post office, in Fayaoué).

    Eat

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    Self-catering is the best option; while New Caledonia is expensive, Ouvéa is even more. The only self-service convenience store is in the middle of the island, near the airport road. A few more non-self-service options exist, with almost empty shops selling a few dusty products imported from mainland France.

    • 1 Alimentation Lomel (a few hundred meters south from the intersection of the main road and the airport road). The only decent option in Ouvéa.
    • 2 Bunaca Alimentation générale. Don't expect much here, but this is the only option in the North. Fresh bread.

    Restaurant options are scarce, very expensive and perhaps not very good.

    • 3 Le Beaupré (in the hotel of the same name).
    • 4 Le Jardin d'Eden (in the Hotel Le Paradis d'Ouvéa).
    • 5 Chez Marc. More a traditional fast-food than a proper restaurant

    Drink

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    Water is in principle drinkable all over Ouvéa, but double check with your accommodation.

    There is no bar nor proper café in Ouvéa. There are, however, a few low-key kava joints.

    Sleep

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    There are two hotels on the island.

    • 1 Hôtel Beaupré (a few hundred meters north east of the intersection of the main road and the airport road), +687 457094, +687 817813, . Ten bungalows across the road from the lagoon. Free Wi-Fi. Snack, restaurant. From €130 per night.
    • 2 Le Paradis d'Ouvéa (not in Ouvéa but in Mouli, at the far south west of the Ouvéa island). By far the most upscale option on the island and priced to match, with rooms directly facing a private beach. Several bars and restaurants, swimming pool. From 32,500 CFP..

    Ouvéa also features a dozen of in-tribe accommodation. Check [1] for details.

    Stay safe

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    The main danger is probably the sun.

    Go next

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    This rural area travel guide to Ouvéa is a usable article. It has information on how to get there and on restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please feel free to improve it by editing the page.


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