Parral, also known as Hidalgo del Parral, is a small city in Chihuahua. The historic mining town has a colorful history, particularly during the Mexican Revolution when a local woman gained fame fighting off the U.S. Cavalry as they chased flamboyant revolutionary, Pancho Villa (who would end up being assassinated in town several years later). The town's Cavalcade attracts thousands of visitors who discover a charming town that can be a great weekend getaway destination. It is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.
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Understand
[edit]The town was established in 1631 as San José del Parral. 200 years later it adopted the official name Hidalgo del Parral in honor of Father Miguel Hidalgo, hero of the Mexican War of Independence. The town is universally referred to simply as Parral. It is a small city with a population of about 110,000 (2015).
Mining was the industry that build Parral, with several silver and lead mines established in the 17th century. The mines were shuttered by the mid 20th century and today agriculture is the backbone of the region's economy (particularly the growing of grain). The mines of Santa Barbara and Parral is one of the stops along the historic Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, a 
UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Get in
[edit]
The nearest airport with commercial flights is Chihuahua International Airport (CUU IATA), officially General Roberto Fierro Villalobos International Airport, a name nobody actually uses. American Airlines serves Chihuahua via DFW. Domestic service from several Mexican cities is provided by Aeromexico, Viva Aerobus, Volaris, and regional carrier Señor Air. From Chihuahua, buses to Parral leave from the Central de Autobuses, or you can rent a car or hire a taxi.
By bus
[edit]Grupo Estrella Blanca[dead link] operates 3 buses per day on its Valle de Guadiana bus line from Chihuahua to Parral. The 3-hour trip costs about M$400. Omnibus de Mexico also serves Parral. They have their own company-specific bus stations on both the east and west side of Parral. Grupo Senda serves Parral via their Chihuahuenses bus line.
There are also second-class bus lines providing regional service between Parral and smaller towns in the region, including communities in the mountains of southern Chihuahua.
By car
[edit]Parral is 227 km south of Chihuahua using federal highway MEX-24.
Get around
[edit]
Parral is a busy place, but walking is a bit confusing in the downtown (Centro) area, where backstreets cluster in pockets around the constantly twisting route of the Rio Parral. Nearly 20 bridges cross the river. Fortunately, many of the historical sites are close together. Taxis are readily available and can be found at sitios in the downtown area (usually near plazas), or you can ask your hotel staff to call one for you. Uber also works in Parral. Local buses are peseros (also called urbanos) and are small and rather dirty.
The city also operates two trams for tourists called Tranvilla and Pyojito. They criss-cross the city traveling between popular tourist sites. Fares cost about M$40.
See
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- 1 Parroquia San José (St Joseph's Church), Francisco Moreno Domínguez 236, Centro. Imposing 17th century stone church with a very large single bell tower, exterior buttresses, and a stunning interior full of gold, crystal chandeliers, and religious artwork including statues in both interior and exterior niches.
- 2 Catedral de Parral (Parral Cathedral, Templo Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe), Ignacio M. Altamirano, Centro. The original church was built in 1680, and although the cathedral looks like it might date from that period, it is actually a modern reconstruction built in the 1940s when the old church was damaged in a 1944 flood. The church features enormous twin bell towers that dwarf the main nave. The church features several stunning stained glass windows and a number of iconic statues and paintings, some rescued from the original church, others from the modern era. The church is a center of activity in early December when the festival of the Virgin of Guadalupe takes place.
- 3 Museo Pancho Villa (Pancho Villa Museum), Gabino Barreda Sn, Centro. Daily 10:00 - 17:00. Fun and fascinating museum about the life and death (mostly the death) of Francisco Villa, General of the Army of the North during the Mexican Revolution and later Governor of the state of Chihuahua. The flamboyant Villa and his colorful accomplishments make him a hero to many people in Northern Mexico, but there are also myriad stories of conspiracies against Villa, who had more than his share of enemies. They say it's not paranoia if somebody actually is out to get you, and Villa can sure attest to the truth of that since he was assassinated here in Parral when his enemies ambushed his car with a hail of gunfire. Guided tours available (with guides who dress as revolutionaries).
- 4 Monumental Statue of Pancho Villa. Towering over nearby rooftops, an enormous monumental equestrian statue of General Villa stands guard at one end of the Revolution Pavilion, a plaza with colorful murals and open walkways. The monumental sculpture is the work of artist Julian Martinez, who unveiled the 7-meter high bronze statue of Villa astride his horse in 1981.
- 5 Casa Griensen - Regional History Museum, Mercaderes 82, Alfareña. Daily 09:00 - 17:00. Beautifully restored Porfiriato era townhome with an open courtyard and ornate architectural detail. Today, the home's rooms have been turned into galleries that tell tales of local history, with an emphasis on the Mexican Revolution. The most interesting tale is that of Elisa Griensen: during the Revolution, Pancho Villa's Army of the North was a militia of ranchers and horsemen who relentlessly attacked federal strongholds in Northern Mexico. Villa's cavalry would often hit a federal outpost and then ride over the border into the U.S., knowing the federales would respect the border and give up the chase. This tactic incensed the U.S. government and U.S. army cavalry units were stationed at Fort Bliss and other outposts to stop Villa. On one occasion, they chased Villa's men all the way to southern Chihuahua but were stopped in Parral when schoolteacher Elise Griensen led her pupils in a blockade to stop the U.S. Cavalry. A small tactical retreat for the cavalry, but it gave Villa time to escape and it catapulted Griensen to local fame where she became an icon of Mexican patriotism.
- 6 Palacio Alvarado, Calle Riva Palacio 2, Centro, ☏ +52 627 522 0290. Tu-Su 09:00 - 17:00, closed M. Grand townhouse that was built by a wealthy industrialist who made his fortune in mining, and was a friend of Pancho Villa. The home is beautifully maintained with spectacularly opulent period furnishings reflecting the Porfiriato era (particularly 1903). Large central courtyard with a glass dome. Many historical displays. M$45 (adults), M$16 (students and senior citizens), Sunday free.
- 7 Museo Centauro del Norte (Centaur of the North Museum), Pedro Gómez 2, Centro. Tu-Su 10:00 - 17:00, closed M. The historic Hidalgo Hotel has been renovated and turned into this history museum about Mexican Revolution hero, Pancho Villa ("The Centaur of the North"). The museum's most notorious feature is an exhibit that re-creates with wax figures the assassination and subsequent wake of Pancho Villa. M$20.
- 8 Mina la Prieta (Prieta Mine), Estaño s/n, Fátima, ☏ +52 627 525 4400. Daily 10:00 - 17:00. Ride an elevator 100 meters below the surface to level 2 (out of 25) of the historic mine that began operations in 1629. Walk 250 meters into the level 2 tunnel, which was dug by hand in 1820. The mine produced gold, silver, lead and a variety of minerals. Period equipment is in various places around the site. M$30 (adults), M$15 (kids).
- 9 Puerta del Tiempo (Gate of Time), Tecnológico 91, El Mirador. The gates of the city is a small park with a huge contemporary sculpture representing "time". Built of a superstructure of industrial steel, two mesh faces point in opposite directions, conceptually representing past and future.
- 10 Plaza Principal, Agustín Barbachano 2, Centro. The town square is an open plaza paved with brick with numerous iron park benches lining the walkways, most of which lead to a central kiosk (bandstand). Most trees are young so there's not a lot of shade (which might help explain why there's always an empty bench available).
- 11 Templo Expiatorio de Nuestra Señora del Rayo, Dámaso Jiménez 5, Centro. Historic church that's taken more than its fair share of licks through its 400 year history. Established in 1661 as a hermitage dedicated to the Virgen del Rayo, the church was re-built in 1704. During the Mexican Revolution, it was burned down by Pancho Villa's troops and completely destroyed. Beginning in 1919, it was re-built as you see it today.
- 12 Teatro Hidalgo, Av. Independencia 14-B, Centro. Built as a monastery in the 17th century, the building was re-purposed as a theatre in the early 20th century. It occasionally hosts theatrical and other performing arts events.
Do
[edit]- Cabalgata Villista - held annually in July, this large cavalcade commemorates the assassination of Pancho Villa. The cavalcade starts in Paral and travels 220 km, ending in Chihuahua. The cavalcade consists of more than 3,000 riders, growing along the route as more riders (known as jinetes) join the ride.
- 1 Ciudad Del Niño (Kid City), Centauro del Nte. 81, Progreso. Daily 09:00 - 17:00. Family recreational park with an outdoor pool, airplane, and myriad playscapes for the kids to play on.
Buy
[edit]- Cajuelazo Parral - unusual concept that takes the traditional tianguis (recurring pop-up marketplace) to a new level. Instead of setting up tables under canopies, people load whatever it is they want to sell into their cars, then go to the site of the cajuelazo, park the car, and pop the trunk lid to show off their wares
- 1 La Gota de Miel, Av. Independencia 85a, Centro, ☏ +52 627 523 3520. M-F 09:00 - 20:00, Sa-Su 10:00 - 20:00. Parral is known for its tradition of candy making, a tradition kept alive by La Gota de Miel, where you can buy a variety of regional sweets, mostly based on leche quemada (a caramel made of sweetened scorched milk). Great place to get some edible souvenirs.
Eat
[edit]- 1 J. Quissime, Independencia 427, Centro, ☏ +52 627 523 3444. Daily 08:00 - 00:00. Popular family-friendly casual restaurant serving basic Mexican and international dishes. Portions are generous and prices reasonable. M$300.
- 2 Mr. Chao, Del Chaparral 2, Fovissste Las Fuentes, ☏ +52 627 523 3060. Daily 11:00 - 22:00. Large family-friendly casual restaurant specializing in seafood. Locals recommend the Carne Asada and the Camarones Empanizados. Ample free parking. M$200.
- 3 Rincon del Mar, México 45 #32, Las Fuentes 4a. Etapa, ☏ +52 627 523 1430. Daily 09:00 - 19:30. Casual seafood restaurant serving ceviche, shrimp cocktails, and tacos. Ample free parking. Friendly atmosphere. M$200.
- 4 La Casa del Tequila, C. Manuel Ojinaga 70, Centro, ☏ +52 627 138 2894. Daily 08:00 - 22:00. Traditional Mexican restaurant with a huge collection of tequila bottles on display. Food is good and portions generous. M$200.
- 5 Los Remedios, Pase, P.º Manuel Gómez Morin 15, Centro, ☏ +52 627 522 0643. Tu-Su 13:00 - 00:00, closed M. Fun traditional Mexican restaurant filled with memorabilia, Mexican artesanias, and conversation-worthy kitsch. Food includes grilled meats, enchiladas, seafood and more. Full bar with tasty margaritas and mezcal drinks. M$250.
- 6 La Casa de Chiliquil, Nuevo León 4, Centro, ☏ +52 627 523 0391. M-Sa 08:00 - 12:00, closed Su. Popular breakfast hot spot specializing in chilaquiles (though they also have pancakes, eggs, and other breakfast dishes). M$150.
Drink
[edit]Sleep
[edit]- 1 La Mina Parral, Ricardo Flores Magón 1, Centro, ☏ +52 627 118 6020. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Modern hotel with clean, spacious rooms and friendly service. Swimming pool available. On-site restaurant serves only breakfast. Rooms on upper levels have excellent views. M$1200.
- 2 La Casa del General, Av Centenario, Centro, ☏ +52 627 149 8356. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Classy boutique hotel in a restored 19th century building. Rooms are clean, spacious and well furnished. On-site restaurant available. Free off-street parking available. M$1350.
- 3 Hotel Adriana, Colegio 2, Centro, ☏ +52 627 522 2570. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate downtown hotel with basic but well furnished rooms that include cable TV, WiFi, and air conditioning. Off-street parking in underground garage.On-site restaurant available.
- 4 American Inn, Av. Independencia 412, ☏ +52 627 523 0505. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Modern motel-style lodging with off-street parking in front of rooms (similar to a Motel 6). Rooms are clean and comfortable with good air conditioning. Breakfast is included in rates and there is a restaurant next door if you want more substantial food. M$1000.
- 5 El Viejo Mundo, C. Manuel Ojinaga 70, Centro, ☏ +52 627 138 2894. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Small boutique hotel with clean, comfortable rooms with air conditioning. On-site restaurant is cozy and has good food. M$1000.
- 6 Hotel Moreira, Jesús García 2, Centro, ☏ +52 627 522 1070. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate hotel with somewhat dated decor. Rooms are a bit small, but comfortable and scrupulously clean. On-site restaurant is recommended.
- 7 Hotel Los Arcos, Calle Dr, Av Pedro de Lille 5, Centro, ☏ +52 627 523 0599. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate hotel with small rooms with dated decor, but clean. Off-street parking in an enclosed parking area. On-site restaurant. WiFi available but flaky reception in many rooms. M$1000.
- 8 Hotel Fuentes, Mercaderes 79, Centro, ☏ +52 627 522 0016. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Cheap barebones rooms in a colonial style building near the city center. Rooms are small and not well furnished. Small off-street parking area is available (if you get there early enough). M$600.
Connect
[edit]Most of Hidalgo de Parral has 5G coverage (Telcel) and connectivity is generally good along major highways in the area, but has spots of 4G. Broadband internet is ubiquitous in town and most hotels, restaurants, and public spaces have WiFi available.