Peaks of the Balkans Voyage Tips and guide

Peaks of the Balkans is a 192-km circular hiking trail through the remote Accursed Mountains of Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro. Established in 2012, this cross-border trekking route connects alpine valleys and villages via high passes and shepherd paths. Key landmarks include Valbona Pass, Zla Kolata (Tromedja), and Rugova Canyon.

The Peaks of the Balkans is a rugged 192-km circular trekking route through the Prokletije, a remote mountain region long divided by the borders of Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro. The trail traverses a diverse landscape of high alpine pastures and traditional stone villages with elevations ranging from 670 m to 2,300 m. While no technical climbing skills are required, the route is physically demanding, involving approximately 9,800 m of total elevation gain. Most hikers complete the 10 stages in 9 to 12 days.

Hikers must obtain cross-border permits in advance to transit between countries outside of official checkpoints. These permits involve submitting passport details to authorities in Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro. Carry printed copies at all times to avoid fines of approximately €300. Essential gear includes sturdy hiking boots, trekking poles, and reliable rain gear. The European emergency number ☏ 112 works across all three countries, though response times in remote areas can be slow. The trail is not suitable for carts or wheelchairs; hikers should be prepared to carry their own gear or arrange local horse transfers.

The “Peaks of the Balkans” printed topo map 1:60,000 (GIZ, 2017) is recommended for those who prefer printed maps.

Nearly every stage ends in a village or seasonal settlement where family-run guesthouses provide dinner, breakfast, and packed lunches. There are no shops between villages, so carry high-energy snacks for 6–9 hours of daily trekking. Most guesthouses can accommodate vegetarians with advance notice.

Carry at least 2 L of water per day. While there are small stream crossings and springs, carry water from villages as some sources may be seasonal. There are no large rivers to cross, but stream levels can rise after heavy rain.

Lodging ranges from basic family homestays to mountain huts. Most provide bedding, but a sleeping bag liner is useful for basic shepherd shelters like those in Dobërdol. Booking ahead is recommended in peak season for popular spots like Theth, Valbona, and the Rugova Valley. Bring cash (Euros or local currency) as there are no ATMs outside of Plav and Pejë. If camping, ask permission before pitching near farms.

The trekking season runs from late May to October, with the most stable weather between July and September. Afternoon thunderstorms are common; hikers should start early to avoid exposed ridges during storm risks. Nights at high altitudes can drop below freezing. In early season (June), snowfields may persist on passes, potentially requiring an ice axe and microspikes.

The Peaks of the Balkans is a loop trail, so it can be started at any point, but Theth and Valbona in Albania, Plav in Montenegro, and Pejë (Peja) in Kosovo are the most common hubs. Each has connections to nearby cities and serves as a practical gateway into the trail network.

Theth is best reached via Shkodër. In summer, direct minibuses (furgons) run from Shkodër to Theth in about 3 hours, departing around 07:00–08:00 and costing around €10. The road is winding but has improved in the early 2020s. Travellers from Tirana can take a bus to Shkodër (2 hours) and connect onward. An alternative and scenic approach is via the Komani Lake ferry: from Shkodër, take a bus to Koman, ferry to Fierzë (2.5 hours), then continue by van to Valbona, and hike over the Valbona Pass into Theth.

Valbona is not a typical start point since it lies mid-loop, but the Valbona Valley is a popular entry via the Komani ferry. From Shkodër, the journey involves a 2-hour drive to Koman, a 2.5-hour ferry through dramatic lake gorges, and a final 1.5-hour ride to Valbona. Alternatively, it can be reached by road from Bajram Curri, which has bus links to Tirana. From Valbona, hikers can head to Theth or Çerem.

Plav is the main trailhead in Montenegro. Buses from Podgorica (3–4 daily) take just under 4 hours, passing through Kolašin and Andrijevica. From the coast, travel via Podgorica. Plav has guesthouses and a tourist office that can help with local logistics. Nearby Gusinje, close to the Vusanje trail stop, also connects to Podgorica via Plav.

Peja in Kosovo lies at the entrance of the Rugova Valley and offers access to several trailheads. It is about 2.5 hours by bus from Pristina, which has an international airport. From Pejë, local taxis or minibuses can reach trail access points like Kučište or Drelaj in about 45 minutes. There are also daily bus connections to Podgorica (4–5 hours) via the Kula border crossing, making it easy to continue onward to Montenegro after the trek.

Map of Peaks of the Balkans

The trail is typically divided into 10 stages, each representing a day’s hike. It can be walked in either direction, though most hikers complete it counter-clockwise, starting in Theth and continuing through Valbona, Vusanje, and back to Theth. The itinerary below follows this common route. Distances, durations, and elevation changes are approximate; daily hiking times are usually 6–8 hours depending on fitness and conditions. Water is available in villages and from springs on most stages, but always carry enough for the day, especially in warm weather.

From the trailhead at 42.39583319.7744441MISSING WIKILINK Theth (745 m), a footpath heads east, climbing through mixed beech and pine forest. After crossing a wooden bridge over the Theth River, the path ascends steeply via switchbacks to the Valbona Pass (1,759 m), a broad saddle marked by a cairn and sign, and the highest point of this stage. From the pass, there are panoramic views: jagged limestone peaks surround the Valbona and Theth valleys, and on a clear day you can see as far as Komani Lake.

The trail descends on a rocky mule track into Valbona Valley National Park, passing alpine meadows and scattered shepherd huts. As you return to the tree line, you enter dense beech forest where you might spot endemic wildflowers. The stage ends at the hamlet of 42.452419.89142 Valbona (950 m), a small settlement of guesthouses and farms. This is one of the most frequently walked sections of the trail.

Leaving Valbona, this stage is a gentler day that leads to one of Albania's remotest villages. The trail begins along a dirt road along the Valbona River, heading north through the widening valley. After about an hour, near the village of Dragobi, the route veers east into a side valley. Many trekkers arrange a short vehicle transfer for the first 6 to 8 km to skip the road walk out of Valbona. At the junction by a bridge, look for trail signs pointing to Çerem.

The path climbs gradually through mixed forest and open slopes, with the river cascading in the gorge below. You will pass a couple of shepherd shelters that may offer fresh cow or goat milk in season. The ascent is steady but moderate. Compared to other stages, today involves no high pass. As you near 42.492919.96093 Çerem (1,150 m), the landscape opens into pastures. Çerem is a tiny alpine village near the Montenegrin border, largely used as summer pastureland. There are no shops; supplies here are extremely limited, but one or two simple guesthouses provide meals. Electricity is available only for a few hours via generator or solar power. Between Valbona and Çerem, trail marking is sparse.

This is one of the most scenic stages, traversing remote highlands up to the tri-country border area. From Çerem, the route heads north through oak and pine forest before emerging into alpine grasslands. A long, steady climb leads to the ridge of Vranica, where you enter the Gashi Nature Reserve. This UNESCO World Heritage site protects one of the last primeval beech forests in the Balkans. Watch for wildlife such as chamois or capercaillie in the woods. The trail crosses a mountain saddle (2,000 m), offering sweeping views. To the west lies Montenegro, and ahead are the rolling high pastures of Dobërdol. A short descent leads to 42.54645120.0665134 Dobërdol (1,750 m).

Dobërdol is a seasonal farming settlement. In summer, several families live here tending sheep, cows, and horses. There is no phone signal or electricity, except possibly solar lights. A highly recommended side trip here is to hike up to Tromedja Peak (2,366 m), which is a two-hour detour one way. From Tromedja’s summit, you can stand at the point where Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro meet. The 360-degree panorama is especially memorable at sunrise or sunset. Many hikers choose to stay an extra night in Dobërdol to make this ascent or to rest before the more difficult stages in Kosovo. This is the trail’s last stop in Albania; the next day you will cross into Kosovo.

This demanding stage carries you over a high pass into Kosovo's Rugova Mountains. Departing Dobërdol, you climb east on a mule track through herb-covered meadows. After about 2 km, you reach the border ridge marked by a simple sign or cairn. This is the entry into Kosovo. The trail continues uphill toward the base of Gjeravica (2,656 m), Kosovo’s highest peak. Gjeravica appears as a rounded summit to the south. Energetic hikers can leave their packs and make a detour to the summit and back in about 3 hours, weather permitting. Otherwise, follow the main route around Gjeravica’s shoulder, passing glacial tarns and rocky outcrops. The trail then descends into a wide valley dotted with summer huts, known as Smiljača on some maps. The trail follows a stream downhill and enters spruce forest as it loses elevation. By late afternoon, you arrive at 42.64036820.1492055 Milishevc (1,650 m).

Milishevc has a handful of newly built guesthouses, which are more comfortable than those in Dobërdol, and are often a welcome place to recharge. You can enjoy a hot shower and perhaps a cold beer. The village is known for its traditional dairy products, and dinner might include local yoghurt or grilled cheese. This stage includes some trail junctions, so follow the red and white markings carefully.

This stage covers varied terrain and takes you deep into Kosovo's Rugova Mountains. From Milishevc, the trail climbs north through shrub and pine until it reaches a high ridge called Bjeshka e Lumbardhit. This ascent is steep but offers excellent views back toward Gjeravica and previous peaks. At the top of the ridge (2,100 m), you reach a panoramic meadow called Lumbardhi ridge, which offers sweeping views over the Rugova Valley far below. The path then descends sharply on a narrow trail through dwarf pines. Use caution here, as the slope is steep and can be slippery on loose gravel.

At the bottom (1,200 m), you reach Rugova Gorge road and a spot called Rugova Camp, which has a riverside campsite and restaurant. Many hikers stop here for lunch. Rugova Camp serves fresh trout from nearby fish ponds and other local dishes. It is also a convenient rest stop after the descent. If needed, a vehicle pickup can be arranged here to skip the next climb.

From Rugova Camp, the trail climbs again, first along a gravel road and then a footpath through pine forest and open pastures. This final ascent of about 600 m is relatively gentle. 42.728320.15946 Reka e Allagës (1,650 m), is a dispersed village of wooden chalets and farms spread along the hillside. There are a couple of simple guesthouses here, known for their friendly hosts. On clear evenings, you can see the outline of Hajla Mountain (2,403 m), to the north, marking the Montenegro border that you will cross the next day.

If the previous stage felt long, you can split it by staying in Milishevc, hiking a short day to Rugova Camp, and then continuing to Reka e Allagës. This option requires arranging an extra night and possibly a short transfer.

This stage has a major climb, an international border, and a road section. Some hikers choose to shorten it by using transport. Depart Reka e Allagës early to tackle the ascent to the border. The trail climbs through high meadows toward Leqinat (also called Liqenat), a pair of glacial lakes near the frontier. After about 3 hours, you reach Guri I Kuq (2,200 m), a ridge at the Kosovo–Montenegro border. Crossing into Montenegro, you enter the Bogićevice highlands of Prokletije National Park. The views are expansive: Hajla Peak rises to the south, and green valleys stretch west into Montenegro.

Descend through alpine pastures to Lake Liqinati (1,850 m), a small oval lake suitable for a picnic or swim on hot days. The path continues down into beech and fir forest and reaches a gravel road at Kučište, where there is a mountain hut or campground. Many hikers arrange a jeep transfer here to avoid the final 6 km of road walking. If you're walking, follow the quiet road alongside the Perchani stream. Due to the shape of the border, you briefly re-enter Kosovo near Çerrovodë. There are no checkpoints here, but note this re-entry. The trail ends in the village of 42.70722220.1227787 Drelaj (1,200 m). This town one of the largest in the Rugova region, located in a scenic gorge.

As an alternate option you can divide this stage in two, stopping at Liqenat or Kučište (~14 km), then walking the remaining 9 km to Drelaj the next day. Camping is possible near Lake Liqinati.

This stage returns to Montenegro's Accursed Mountains National Park, and contains the final exit from Kosovo. Follow a paved lane out of Drelaj for 2 km to the trailhead. Some hikers arrange a ride to skip this uphill road section. The route becomes a footpath, climbing through forest to a mountain pass marked by border stones. Re-entering Montenegro, you enter a high alpine area called Babino Polje ("Grandma's Field"), a seasonal pasture settlement. The trail passes the hamlet of Liqoči and Maja e Kuče peak on the border ridge. In summer, you may see sheep herds and shepherds living in stone huts. Continue west across the undulating Babino Polje plateau, which is dotted with boulders and dwarf pines. By early afternoon, you reach 42.61298720.0491798 Babino Polje (1,730 m).

It is the first Montenegrin village on the trail and has a couple of simple guesthouses. One is a refurbished katun with wide views, another is a farmstay where you can sample local honey and pršut (smoked ham). After checking in, consider a short walk of about 20 minutes to Hrid Lake (1,970 m) nestled in a pine forest. The lake lies 2 km south of Babino Polje on a marked trail. Local legend says a swim in its waters brings luck.

This mostly downhill stage leads from the highlands to the town of Plav. Depart Babino Polje heading northwest on a jeep track through pastureland and the last katuns of the route. A Yugoslav-era border monument stands on a nearby hill, marking the tri-point of Montenegro, Kosovo, and Albania. The trail descends into dense conifer forest. Follow red-and-white Montenegrin trail blazes through a network of logging tracks. Lake Hrid is a short detour if not visited the previous day, especially scenic in the morning. As the forest thins, views of the Plav Valley appear. The trail eventually joins a country lane leading into 42.59555619.9459MISSING WIKILINK Plav, which sits at 950 m altitude.

Plav is a small town beside a glacial lake with around 3,500 residents. It has guesthouses, small hotels, shops, bakeries, eateries, ATMs, and pharmacies. Plav is a good place to restock or take a rest day. Some hikers end their trek here, while others continue toward Vusanje. The trail actually bypasses Plav slightly before continuing on, and a car transfer is possible to shorten the next stage.

This is the longest stage by distance and includes a return to Albania. Start early, especially in summer when it gets hot in the afternoon. Departing from the center of Plav, the trail initially follows an asphalt road, transitioning to a dirt track after about 0.5 km. This section ascends gently for approximately 7 km through pastoral landscapes, with optional vehicle transfers available to bypass this portion. 

The path then enters a dense forest, leading to a meadow with a fresh water source. From here, a steep climb begins towards Bor Peak (2,106 m), offering panoramic views of Lake Plav and the surrounding Accursed Mountains. 

After summiting, the trail descends through alpine meadows and past traditional shepherd huts, eventually reaching the village of 42.52666719.84611110 Vusanje (1,022 m). The descent is significant and can be taxing on the knees.

The trail follows a dirt track south through the Ropojana Valley, a limestone canyon with springs and a dry riverbed. After about 45 minutes, you pass the 42.51186419.834741 Blue Eye of Kaprre, a turquoise karst spring where you can refill water before the climb. The trail then ascends west toward the Albania border with a 1,000-m climb and multiple switchbacks. A rocky viewpoint midway offers views of Gusinje and the Karanfili peaks of Montenegro's Prokletije National Park. At Pejë Pass, also called Qafa e Pejës (1,711 m), you cross the border into Albania and overlook Theth Valley.

The descent into Theth drops more than 1,000 m along a steep but well-trodden path beneath cliffs. Snow or mud may be present in spring. After around 3 hours, the trail flattens and follows the river to Theth, completing the circuit. Some guesthouses in Theth offer celebratory drinks.

Near Theth, be sure to check out the 42.377419.795232 Grunas Waterfall.

It is possible to break the stage by staying in Zastan, a shepherd hut area just before Pejë Pass. Alternatively, a 4x4 from Vusanje can shorten the hike via the rough track.

The Accursed Mountains are home to wildlife such as bears, wolves, and lynx, but these animals tend to avoid humans. Shepherd dogs guarding livestock are more likely to be encountered. These are often large breeds like Sharplaninac or Karakachan, bred for protectiveness. If a dog approaches barking, stop, speak calmly, and avoid sudden movements. Do not run. If the shepherd is nearby, they usually call the dog off. Trekking poles can help deter aggressive behavior.

Water from springs is generally clean, but it's best to use a filter if livestock are grazing upstream or if the source is low in the valley. In village homestays, sanitation can be basic; some places have outhouses. Bring hand sanitizer and maintain good hygiene to reduce the risk of illness.

Carry a basic first aid kit with blister treatment supplies, pain relievers, and any personal medications. Ticks can be present in lower grassy areas, particularly in spring and early summer, so use insect repellent and check your body thoroughly each evening.

Completing the Peaks of the Balkans opens the door to many other hiking adventures in the region. From either Theth or Valbona, you can revisit the scenic Valbona Pass or explore shorter trails in Theth National Park, such as the route to Grunas Waterfall or the Blue Eye of Kapre. In Montenegro, Prokletije National Park offers dramatic terrain, including the Grbaja Valley, the sharp Karanfili peaks, and the more gradual climb to Visitor Mountain above Plav. Across the border in Kosovo’s Rugova Valley, the trail to Hajla Peak near Drelaj is another rewarding option.

Those interested in long-distance routes can follow the Via Dinarica, which stretches through the Dinaric Alps from Slovenia to Albania. The Peaks of the Balkans overlaps with sections of the Via Dinarica Blue Trail, allowing onward travel toward Serbia or Montenegro’s Durmitor National Park. Another extended trek is the High Scardus Trail, which runs south through Kosovo, North Macedonia, and Albania along the Sharr and Korab ranges.

For cultural exploration, there are many options nearby. From Theth or Shkodër, you can travel to coastal cities like Kotor or Dubrovnik. From Pejë, Prizren and Skopje are both within reach. And from Plav or Gusinje, it’s possible to continue on to Podgorica or Kolašin. Each of the three countries along the route offers historic towns, varied architecture, and regional cuisine worth discovering.