Understand
[edit]Phuentsholing is the point of entry for travelers arriving by bus from Kolkata and Siliguri and the town functions primarily as a place where Bhutanese and Indians do business. With a population approaching 30k, it is the second largest city in Bhutan, after Thimphu. The town itself is actually nothing more than a jumble of concrete, non-descript buildings squashed in a small area between mountains and the border; it also lacks a dzong, famous monastery, or in fact anything of particular interest to tourists. However, like all of Bhutan, it does offer a clean and safe environment in which to go about your business. Indian nationals require a travel permit to enter Bhutan proper, but can visit Phuentsholing without any documentation.
Get in
[edit]Entry procedure
[edit]The information below is relevant only to guests, foreign nationals with visa clearance documents, or those with a work permit. Bhutan does not operate a visa on arrival system, and visitors without correct documentation will be denied entry. The border immigration is open twenty-four hours.
- Receive exit stamp from Indian immigration office (see 'Cope' on Jaigaon page)
- Inside the Bhutanese immigration complex, travellers are directed to a tourist area where there is an information desk, immigration officials, a currency exchange and waiting area.
- Present your visa authorisation document.
- Travellers are not be permitted to leave the immigration complex building without a guide
Indian nationals do not require a visa to enter Phuentsholing, but they do require proof of citizenship, such as a voter card or passport, to travel beyond the town. In Phuentsholing, they will be issued a permit to visit other parts of the country. There is a Nu1,200 per day fee to go beyond Phuentsholing and a guide (Nu2,000 per day) is a requirement. (a list of guides is available at the immigration office)
By bus
[edit]Before entering Bhutan, non-Indians are required to receive an exit stamp in their passports at the Indian immigration office. Therefore, when getting on the bus, inform the driver that you'll be getting off in Jaigaon, and so your luggage should be placed in an area from where it can be removed easily - certainly not under piles of luggage of passengers going to the final destination. Request the driver to let you off near the Indian immigration office (next to the movie theater). It is a five-minute walk from there to Bhutan gate.
- From Kolkata. The Bhutan Government runs a direct service from Kolkata to Phuentsholing, with buses departing Esplanade Bus Station at 7PM on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, with the return journey starting from Phuentsholing Bus Station at 3PM on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. The journey takes around 17-18 hours and costs ₹2,000. The buses are comfortable, but during the monsoon, road conditions can be difficult and so the journey may take much longer than 18 hours. (updated Oct 2024)
- From Siliguri. Buses depart at 7:30AM and 2PM every day from opposite Golden Plaza on Burdwan Road (behind Air View More). Tickets are sold at a counter near the bus parking area, and it costs ₹300 for the four-hour journey. See 'Go next' on Siliguri page for more information. (updated Oct 2024)
By train
[edit]The nearest railway station to Phuentsholing is at Hasimara, which is approximately a 30 minutes bus/auto ride. See Jaigaon page for more information.
There are around 50 trains each week departing from Siliguri Junction or New Jalpaiguri station (also in Siliguri) which stop at Hasimara. The journey takes between 3 and 4 hours.
Get around
[edit]The town center can easily be covered on foot, but there are an abundance of taxis for journeys out of town. Reserve cars are also available from Kings Travels, dial-098304-28401/093319-39486.
See
[edit]- Amo Chuu - a Crocodile Breeding Centre on the banks of the river behind the bus station. The crocodiles are bred in order to be released in a nature reserve.
- 1 Bhutan Gate. A traditional-style Bhutanese gate, used as a gateway between India and Bhutan.
- Chukha Hydrothermal Project.
- Karbandi Monastery. After an Indian pilgrim became pregnant after praying at this monastery to conceive, the temple has become a regular port of call for couples wishing for children. For those who do not have parental ambitions, the view from the monastery over Phuentsholing and the Bengal Plain is still worth making the trip. The monastery is located a short distance above the town. Take a cab up and walk back.
- Zangthopelri Lhakhang This town centre temple represents the Copper Coloured Mountain, otherwise known as the pure land of Guru Rinpoche. On the ground floor there are statues of eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche and paintings on Buddha's life while the next floor contains eight bodhisattavas and statues of Avalokiteshvara and Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. On the top floor, there is a statue of Amitabha.
Do
[edit]- Wander round the town and plan your journey in or out of the country.
Buy
[edit]Handicrafts
- Anil Stores, Phuensum Lam, (across from Kizom Cafe). ☏ +975 17601105. Small selection of trinket-type souvenirs. Wallets and purses made from Bhutanese woven cloth.
- Tshela Handicrafts, next to Kizom Cafe. Items tending towards cheap souvenirs. Buddhist ritual utensils.
The town offers a wide range of electrical goods and computers from Bangkok, which are generally cheaper in Bhutan than in India. There are also a number of supermarkets that stock imported food items and a fresh vegetable and fruit market with local and Indian produce.
Eat
[edit]Being on the Indian border, the town has a great selection of Indian restaurants. However, like most of Bhutan, Phuentsholing starts late, and so travellers requiring an early breakfast (before 8:30-9AM), should cross into Jaigaon, where most restaurants open early.
- Log Cabin, GF, Hotel Kuenga, Tharpai Lam (Opposite the entrance to Zangtopelri), ☏ +975 5 252-387. 10AM-11PM. Log cabin-style interior. Indian, continental, Bhutanese, and Chinese cuisine. Espresso-based coffees. Cocktails. Desserts. .
- Times Kitchen, Tharpai Lam (rear of Zangthopelri Park), ☏ +975 17117373. Stylish restaurant with views over Zangthopelri Temple. Excellent Indian and Chinese cuisine. Polite and efficient service.
Drink
[edit]Coffee
[edit]- Cafe Wookpa, Goedoe Lam, Main Town (near corner with Norkhil Lam, approx 100 m from Park Hotel, opp Phodrang Shopping Complex.), ☏ +975 77390901. Around 11AM until very late (times are not set). A cute little cafe with a heart. Healthy and delicious meals. Excellent coffee. Gluten-free options. Hand written menu on hand-made paper. Opening times are not set, and so it is advisable to call in advance to check if the cafe is open or not.
- 1 Kizom Cafe, Main Town (in front of the Zangtopelri Complex). 8:30AM-9PM. A standard variety of espresso-based coffees. Excellent pastries and pizza. Pleasant environment. Free Wi-Fi, but only two electric plug sockets for the entire cafe. Open time is advertised as 8:30AM, but only ready to serve coffee by 9:30AM
Alcohol
[edit]The Bhutanese are generally very liberal consumers of alcohol, and so the town has a high number of bars. One can choose from a range of Bhutanese brands of whiskeys, rums, brandies, gins, and a peculiar green concoction called sonfy which one would be wise to avoid. Two whiskey brands, Special Courier, and CSJ, made with Scottish malt, are actually quite pleasant. More internationally recognized brands of alcohol are also available at some of the more reputed watering holes, such as the bars at Hotel Kuenga and at Hotel Druk-Bhutan.
Sleep
[edit]Budget
[edit]- Bhutan Hotel, Goedoe Lam, ☏ +975 5 252-576. Check-out: noon. Modern and clean. Excellent service. Centrally located, Small restaurant offering delicious Indian and Bhutanese cuisine. Bar. Free WiFi throughout. Nu1,200 per night.
- Central Hotel, PO Box 248, ☏ +975 5 252-172, [email protected]. Old, but fully renovated hotel. Opposite Zangtopelri temple in centre of town. Popular with business types.
- KC Hotel, Main town. Basic but clean rooms. Restaurant serves Bhutanese style meals and breakfast. Nu800-Nu1,000.
- Hotel Peljorling, PO Box 149 (near Bhutan Gate), ☏ +975 5 252-833. .
- Hotel Kuenga, PO Box 62 (in the center of town), ☏ +975 5 252-293. One of the original hotels in town. Drab and badly in need a of lick of paint, but offering basic facilities - hot water and TV.
Mid-range
[edit]- Hotel Bhutan Residence, ☏ +975 5 253688, +975 5 253689, fax: +975 5 253690, [email protected]. This new hotel has contemporary interiors, modern amenities and business facilities. The rooms are fully furnished with stylish modern fittings and A/C. Room Rate 10 minutes' walk from border gate. Nu.850-2000.
- Midpoint Hotel (Dhamdara), ☏ +975-5-254903, +975 17616379 (mobile). Includes a swimming pool, a restaurant and a bar. from Nu.770/- to Nu.2000/.
- Hotel Druk-Bhutan (Dhamdara), ☏ +975 5254451, +975 5254496, +975 5251163. The hotel overlooks the Toorsa river and has a garden and mini-pool.
- Hotel Druk. The town's largest and one of the main tourist hotels - patio for sitting out - near Bhutan Gate (on the right when entering the town from Jaigaon).
- Hotel Namgay, ☏ +975 5 252-374, [email protected]. A pleasant hotel. Deluxe:2,000Nu & 2,500Nu. Standard:1,100Nu & 1,300Nu.
- Lhaki Hotel, PO Box 187 (just above the downtown area), ☏ +975 5 257-111, [email protected]. A spacious tourist hotel. 1,800Nu for single.
- Park Hotel, Norkhil Lam, Main Town, ☏ +975-77847475. Bright and elegant rooms. Friendly and helpful service.
Connect
[edit]- The area code for Phuentsholing is 05. When calling from overseas, dial +975 5 XXXXXX
Go next
[edit]In Bhutan:
- Paro - sacred sites, handicraft stores, international airport - bus and shared taxi options
- Thimphu - the bustling capital city, shopping, dzongs, - buses every thirty minutes (Nu500), shared taxis (Nu800-900) (Update Oct 2024)
In India:
- Darjeeling - former British hill station. A six hour journey. Direct buses and shared taxis from Jaigaon.
- Siliguri - a cosmopolitan city, large shopping malls, Buddhist monasteries, international airport - buses (Dophu Transport +975 77870211) at 7:30AM and 2PM (Nu350) - a four-hour journey