Quiroga is a town in the Lake Patzcuaro region of Michoacan. The town is known as a market town where vendors and craftsmen from the many small villages and islands of the lake region bring their wares to sell. It is a lively town, larger than most of the lake villages, yet is often overlooked by mainstream travelers, making it a good place to see "real Mexico".
Understand
[edit]The town is fairly small, yet large enough to provide a good range of services to travelers. As of 2020, the population stood at just over 15,000.
History
[edit]Prior to the colonization of Mexico, the town was a Purhepecha community that had already established itself as an important marketplace due to its central proximity to the capital of Tzintzuntzán and other Purhepecha populations. When the Spanish arrived first arrived in the form of Franciscan missionaries, the friars called the town San Diego Cocupao. The name was changed to Quiroga in 1858 in honor of the first bishop of Michoacan, Father Vasco de Quiroga.
Get in
[edit]
The closest airport with scheduled commercial flights is Morelia International Airport (MLM IATA) (officially, but never actually called General Francisco Mujica International Airport). The airport is served by Mexican carriers from most major cities in the country as well as flights from the United States on both Mexican and U.S. carriers.
Quiroga is located 70 km west of Morelia. Frequent buses offer direct service or driving a rental car is a good choice as the roads are modern and well maintained.
By bus
[edit]From Morelia's main bus station, Flecha Amarilla operates hourly direct buses to Quiroga. The 1-hour and 15 minute trip will cost about M$50. Purhepecha and other second-class bus lines also serve Quiroga.
By car
[edit]From Morelia, drive west on federal highway MEX-15. The 42 km trip will take just under 1 hour.
Get around
[edit]Walk. Taxis are plentiful as well and can be found at downtown sitios, or your hotel can call a taxi for you. Taxis are generally safe and affordable.
See
[edit]
Much of the early history of Quiroga centers on its relationship with the Catholic missionaries who first settled the region in the name of the Spanish king. A number of historic churches hold interesting stories of the past and are often visited for their artworks and their architecture.
- 1 Parroquia de San Diego de Alcalá, Vicente Guerrero, Centro. Colonial era church with a peaceful garden courtyard. Tapanco paintings line the ceiling as a series of small frames. Many of the paintings are symbols of the connection between God and his people. A marketplace on one side of the church displays many local crafts from local villages.
- 2 Templo de la Inmaculada Concepción, Santos Degollado, Centro. One of the earliest churches in Quiroga, the temple is dominated by a tall bell tower with a clock inset near the top.
- 3 Capilla de San Miguel Arcangel, Lázaro Cárdenas Nte., Primero.
- 4 Templo de San Vicente de Padua, Berriozabal, Centro. Early 20th century temple in a working class neighborhood. One central colomn of pews in a narrow, high nave. Rustic wood ceiling, stucco exterior.
- 5 Fuente de America (Fountain of America), Lázaro Cárdenas Nte., Centro. Plaza with a towering central fountain. Many vendors line the sidewalks selling snacks, particularly carnitas. Often crowded.
Do
[edit]Buy
[edit]Quiroga has historically been a major market town in the region, a role it continues to play in the 21st century. There are numerous tianguis (pop-up markets) in the town center and a tianguis can be found on any day. There are also artisan markets (artesanias) around the city. The Lake Patzcuaro region is famous for its long history of producing Mexican artesanias, a practice started in the 16th century by Bishop Vasco de Quiroga. Area craftsmen make a variety of products including woven linens, copper pots and jewelry, glassware, and earthen pottery.
- 1 Comercializadora de Artesanías Mexicanas Alaide (Artesania marketplace), C. Berriozabal, Centro, ☏ +52 454 354 0991. Daily 07:30 - 20:00. Large artisan market that sells some of the best quality products from the various villages and islands around Lake Patzcuaro. This is a bustling market that is a frequent stop for tour buses from Morelia or Patzcuaro that will take visitors to see craftsmen in their shops (and of course, with visits to this market or the Casa de Once Patios in Patzcuaro).
Eat
[edit]
People come from miles around to buy carnitas -- cubes of marinated pork loin, slow roasted until it develops a thin, crisp crunch. Carnitas are sold in just about every restaurant in town and can be found in vendor carts around the Plaza Madrigal and any other place that people congregate. Visitors should make a point to try at least one plate of carnitas.
- 1 Casa de Carmelo (Carnitas Carmelo), Vasco de Quiroga Pte. 479, Segundo, ☏ +52 454 354 0976. Daily 08:00 - 18:00. A Quiroga institution, serving authentic carnitas for over 40 years. Served with handmade tortillas and a variety of homemade salsa (most quite spicy, so try a little before dousing your carnitas in it). M$200.
- 2 El Rey de las Carnitas, Plaza Principal, Portal de Hidalgo 6, Centro, ☏ +52 454 354 0350. Daily 09:00 - 22:00. Beautiful colonial courtyard dining area serving regional foods of Michoacan including a delicious Sopa Tarascan and of course, carnitas with tortillas and salsas. Large pitchers of cold aguas frescas. M$200.
- 3 Las Maravillas, Carr. Quiroga - Patzcuaro (MEX-120), ☏ +52 434 115 6576. Daily 08:00 - 18:00. Authentic regional Mexican cuisine with homemade stews (guisadas) and grilled meats. No set menu: dishes will depend on what is in-season and available at local markets. M$200.
Drink
[edit]Sleep
[edit]- 1 Hotel Quiroga, Avenida, Vasco de Quiroga Pte. 340, Centro, ☏ +52 443 116 5163. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Traditional Mexican downtown hotel with central courtyard area with a restaurant and bar (creates a bit of noise early in the morning). Rooms are spacious and clean with somewhat dated decor. Parking area is too small for number of guests.
- 2 Hotel El Tarasco, Carr. Guadalajara-Morelia 49, Centro, ☏ +52 454 354 0100. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Traditional Mexican downtown hotel with rooms arranged around a central courtyard and 3 floors of rooms above. Rooms are spacious but minimally furnished with inadequate WiFi and inadequate parking. No elevators (so you might to request a first-floor room to avoid hauling suitcases up 3 flights of stairs).
- 3 Hotel Fiesta Purepecha, Guadalupe Victoria 105, Centro, ☏ +52 454 354 2020. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Older hotel that's got a lot of potential but lacks charm and maintenance. Musty smell in rooms, which have poor WiFi and no wall outlets in the room. M$950.