Salve is a town of 4,500 inhabitants in the Apulia region in Italy. Its territory comprises 7 km (4.5 mi) of sandy coastline on the Ionian Sea. The village has traces of an old Castle (now transformed into houses) which resisted several Turkish sieges.
Understand
[edit]"Salve" literally means "hello" in Italian and according to a local legend the name derives from the centurion Salvius, that in 267 BC received this land as a reward during the Roman conquest of Salento. Actually the town was founded in the 5th century AD by refugees from nearby villages that were abandoned following Ostrogothic raids and epidemics. During the 16th century several fortified towers and farmhouses, the typical masserie, were built in the countryside and in town as a result of the frequent Ottoman and Barbary corsairs' raids. Most of these buildings are still standing, usually converted into B&B or agritourism accommodations.
Nowadays the municipality comprises the coastal villages of Pescoluse, Torre Pali and part of Lido Marini, renowned tourist localities, as well as the small inland village of Ruggiano of just 500 inhabitants.
- 1 Tourist Information Office Salve (Ufficio I.A.T. Salve), Piazza Concordia, 7 (inside Palazzo Carida-Ramirez), ☏ +39 0833 520550, [email protected]. M-F 17:00-20:00. Information about the locality, nearby tourist destinations and events. Open year-round and located in the old town.
- 2 Tourist Information Office Pescoluse (Ufficio I.A.T. Pescoluse), Parco dei Gigli (Pescoluse), ☏ +39 0833 520550, [email protected]. 10:00-12:00, 17:00-20:00. Smaller info point open from 1 July to 27 September, located close to bathouses in Pescoluse.
Get in
[edit]By plane
[edit]The closest airport is in Brindisi[dead link] (BDS IATA), 120 km away. From here you can reach Salve by renting a car or through the various bus shuttle services.
By car
[edit]- From the airport of Brindisi: take the to bypass the city, merge onto towards Lecce, here take Tangenziale Ovest and to Gallipoli and finally until the exit of Salve/Torre Pali. Once you get here turn right to arrive in the proper town, or turn left on the provincial road 339 to reach Pescoluse and Torre Pali in 5 minutes. The whole route will require about 1½ hr.
- From Santa Maria di Leuca: take the freeway and then the provincial road 190 to arrive in Salve in 15 min. As an alternative you can drive along the coastal road enjoying the beautiful view.
By train
[edit]The municipality is served by the 1 Salve-Ruggiano railway station, which is located in the small village of Ruggiano, 1km north of the town of Salve. The station is managed by Ferrovie del Sud Est network, but the service is usually inadequate and people will strongly discourage you to take a regional train, since it takes a bit more than 2 hours to reach Salve from Lecce with a cost of €6.40.
Get around
[edit]By car
[edit]A car is necessary to move from the inland town of Salve and the village of Ruggiano to the coast, as well as exploring the enchanting countryside rich of traces from past centuries, considering the lack of a public transit system. Main roads are in acceptable conditions considering the standards of southern Italy villages but they are scarcely lit, so you will have to drive with high beam headlights on for most of the time if you drive at night. Several internal countryside roads are really narrow so watch out for eventual vehicles incoming from the opposite direction and moderate the speed. The modern centre of Salve is built in a grid pattern with one-way streets while part of the old town is precluded to vehicular transit.
On foot
[edit]Most of the streets in Salve have little traffic and the small size of the centre allows you to walk relaxed between the baroque architectures and the white houses in Mediterranean style, probably catching the eye of the curious and talkative inhabitants. Parco dei Gigli (lilies park) in marina di Pescoluse is a nice zone to stroll and to access the beach, while the port of Torre Pali can reveal a truly suggestive place during a walk at twilight.
See
[edit]- 1 Chiesa di San Nicola Magno (Church of St. Nicholas the Great), Piazza Concordia (main square in the old town). Finished in 1672 AD the cathedral church is one of the most richly decorated of the cape of Leuca area, containing four valuable baroque altars built in Lecce stone during the 16th and 17th centuries as well as a white wooden pulpit with gold-leaf motifs and a ceiling of the crossing with elaborate stuccoes and frescoes. But the centerpiece is the pipe organ Olgiati-Mauro acquired in 1628, which is the oldest functional pipe organ in Apulia and one of the oldest in Italy. Unlike the interior, the exterior is quite simple and it has been restored in 1954, with the construction of a small square-based bell tower on top of the preexisting clock tower facing the central square. Free entry.
- 2 Frantoio ipogeo "Le Trappite", Via Veneri Francesco. An underground oil mill carved into the rock during 1601, at the border of the old town. Free entry.
- 3 Torre Pali (Poles tower). Partially collapsed coastal tower built in the 16th century, one of the hundreds built in the Kingdom of Naples during the Spanish rule as a defense against Ottoman raids. The circular plan structure in now completely surrounded by the sea, few meters off the beach, because of the natural erosion of the sandy coast. The second level is collapsed in different steps during the last decades and the tower resembles now a lonely great rock against the low coastline.
- 4 Santuario di Santa Marina (Sanctuary of Saint Marina), Via Santa Marina, 9 (Ruggiano). Small but fine baroque church in the small village of Ruggiano, north of Salve. Free.
- 5 Pajara "Trausceddhu" (Pajara "Trauscello"), Via Paolo Borsellino. The largest pajàra in the municipality. It consists in an ancient countryside house built in dry-stone before the 19th century, one of the thousands of this truncated conical structures similar to the trulli built in this area. It has a circular plan and is built on three levels with three external staircases that runs along every level, you can climb it to reach the roof at anheight of about 10 m (33 ft). This large pajara is located in the suburb of Salve, unfortunately facing some modest 20th century buildings, the access is completely free since it is on public land.
- 6 Pajara in via Trabacche, Via Trabacche (contrada "Scafazzi"). 24/7. One of the largest pajara in the province, a well preserved example of rural architecture half a mile away from the freeway exit of "Scafazzi", less than 5 min by car from Salve old town. It is made of stone covered with lime mortar and it consists in three truncated cones on top of each other. The building is actually accessible even if it's located on a private land. Free entry.
- 7 Pajara in contrada Scafazzi, Strada Provinciale 324 ("Scafazzi" freeway exit). 24/7. Majestic rural building made in dry-stone, with well preserved structure and interiors. It presents five levels with elliptical plan. It is located in the deep countryside 3 min from "Scafazzi" freeway exit at about 4 km (2.5 mi) from Salve old town. Free entry.
- 8 Dolmen "Argentina", SP91 (coastal road between Pescoluse and Torre Pali). Small but interesting megalithic tomb, discovered in 1968. It is composed of an underground burial chamber 1.8 m (6 ft) tall, covered by three main blocks held up by four monoliths and various stacked rocks. Height above the ground is 1.1 m, length of 2.2 m and width of 1.5 m. This site of uncertain age is unfortunately not signposted and it's protected only by volunteer associations, that sometimes organize guided tours. It is located on the coastal road close to the giant deckchair at the entry of Maldive del Salento resort. Free entry.
Do
[edit]Sea-based
[edit]- 1 Salentour escursioni, Corso Cristoforo Colombo (Torre Pali), ☏ +39 347 660-7036, [email protected]. A 4 hour mini-cruise starting at 9:00 or 14:00 to the Ionian and Adriatic sea caves of Leuca, with two stops of ½hr to bathe and aperitif on board. A shorter 2 hour trip starts at 18:30 to discover only the Ionian sea caves with a stop to bathe, but it will end with a rich aperitif on board with raw seafood and live music. You can also choose to rent a boat to hold a private party starting at 20:30 with aperitifs and deejays music on board. Finally you can even sail the Ionian sea for 1½hr on board of a large dinghy to reach the Greek island of Othonì, swimming in the waters of the bay of Kalipso, having lunch in a local restaurant, enjoying an aperitif on board and discovering the island to come back to Torre Pali at 19:00.
- 2 Maldive del Salento, Litoranea Leuca - Gallipoli (Pescoluse), ☏ +39 349 852 0580, [email protected]. 07:00-22:00. One of the most popular beach resorts in the province, by now well known even outside Apulia, offers activities such as parasailing, jet ski rentals, dinghy tours in the frame of one of the best stretch of coast of the area. A free-access floating pier more than 50 metres long (164 ft) has been positioned allowing you to run and dive in the crystal clear Ionian waters. The resort is equipped with parking, bar, newsstand and WiFi and it is easily recognisable from a giant deck chair at the entrance, become a tourist attraction itself.
Land-based
[edit]- 3 Parco Astronomico Sidereus, Contrada Leopaldi, ☏ +39 349 847-0776. M-Th 20:30-22:30, F-Su 20:30-23:30. An "astronomical park" with a 50 seats planetarium where to discover constellations, planets and nebulae, knowing how to use meridian and telescope as well as observing the stars shining in the dark sky of the countryside. €15 full, €8 under 13 years, €5 students.
Buy
[edit]A 1 weekly market is held every Tuesday morning in a large square along Via Vittorio Veneto at the back of the statue of the airplane, close to the roundabout of Piazza Dante along the road to Ruggiano. Here it's possible to find clothing and accessories, as well as grocery including daily fresh fish, fruit and vegetables, deli and other various local products. Otherwise there are differents supermarkets in the municipality, of which the two main are located in the inhabited centre of Salve.
Grocery stores
[edit]- 2 Dok Supermercato, Piazza Dante Alighieri, ☏ +39 0833 528427. M-Sa 07:30-20:30, Su 08:00-12:30. Medium-sized supermarket, it is the main one in the municipality.
- 3 Pam Supermercato, Via Nicola de Lecce, 48, ☏ +39 331 778 0877. M-Th 07:30-14:00/16:00-20:30, F-Sa 07:30-20:30, Su 08:00-12:30. A few steps away from the old town, it's a medium-small supermarket but quite rich of products and cheap. It's mainly focused on grocery and it comprises bread, meat, cheese and ready meals counters.
- 4 Supermercato La Torre, Via Giovanni Caboto, 33 (Torre Pali), ☏ +39 327 187 9611. 07:30-13:30, 16:30-20:45. Small but well furnished supermarket at the service of the marina of Torre Pali, very cheap.
- 5 SuperMarkato, Via della Tortorella, 4 (Pescoluse). 07:00-22:00. Small market at the service of the marina of Pescoluse.
Other stores
[edit]As regards to shopping the town offers few clothes shops, most of which are concentrated along Via Roma.
- 6 Salento 365, Corso Cristoforo Colombo, 81 (Torre Pali), ☏ +39 320 571 0000, [email protected]. Tu-Su 08:30-13:00, 16:00-19:00. Well furnished souvenir and gift shop mainly focused on clothing, with also sport fishing and sea items.
- 7 Terra Noscia, SP351 (Salve-Presicce road), ☏ +39 334 123 8146, [email protected]. Store where you can buy locally made food products including taralli, frise, fresh pasta, olive oil and a large choice of preserves, sauces, pates and in oil products such as chicories, capers, turnips, eggplants and many others. You wil find also liquours in various flavours, homemade beers and wines, including Negramaro and Primitivo di Manduria. Prices are more than fair and procuts can also be ordered online from Italy and Europe.
Eat
[edit]Bar and pastry shops
[edit]- 1 Capricci del Corso, Via Roma, 170 (Salve main street), ☏ +39 0833 740231. 05:00-13:00, 16:00-21:30 closed on Tuesdays. Well furnished bar and bakery with indoor and open space area with a vast variety of take-out coffees, cakes, pastries and even delicatessen specialties of Salento cuisine, including the pasticciotto leccese. Enjoy a great breakfast or aperitif in the very centre of Salve.
- 2 Martinucci Pescoluse, Via Pitagora, 30 (facing the pedestrian area of Pescoluse), [email protected]. 16:00-00:00. Small bar and ice-cream parlor focused on take away service. Here you will find also cakes and semifreddo desserts.
- 3 Martinucci Torre Pali, Via Duca degli Abruzzi, 4 (facing the beach in the centre of Torre Pali), ☏ +39 0833 933414, [email protected]. 07:00-02:00. Excellent ice-creams as well as various desserts, calzoni and rustici, all of them tasted with a stunning view over the sea.
Restaurants
[edit]- 4 Ikarus, Parco dei Gigli, 1 (Pescoluse), ☏ +39 328 329 5835, [email protected]. 12:00-15:00, 19:00-00:00. All-year open restaurant focused on seafood and pizza cooked to firewood, also with takeaway service. Mid-range.
- 5 Il Borghetto - Trattoria, Via Persico, 14 (Salve old town), ☏ +39 339 469 9399, [email protected]. 12:30-14:30, 19:15-22:45. Cosy atmosphere for a restaurant in the heart of Salve historic centre, where you can taste the typical Mediterranean cuisine of this area, from land to seafood recipes. Mid-range.
- 6 Li Pali, Litoranea Gallipoli-S.M. di Leuca (Torre Pali), ☏ +39 0833 711331, +39 340 696 8720, [email protected]. 24/7. One of the most renowned restaurants in the area, famous for the abundance of the dishes, that comprise raw and cooked seafood. Mid-range.
- 7 Mr.Jameson, Via Don Minzoni, 7 (Salve new town), ☏ +39 347 717 8512. 18:00-23:30. Trattoria and wine bar to taste the most famous dishes of Salento cuisine prepared in traditional way. Most of recipes are mainly focused on land ingredients instead of seafood, such as different varieties of pasta, meat and vegetables. Mid-high range.
- 8 Sante Le Muse, Strada Comunale Salve-Morciano, 3 (close to the cemetery), ☏ +39 342 791 1059. M, W-Th 17:30-23:00, F-Su 17.00-23:00. Probably the most renowned restaurant of the town in an enchanting farmhouse surrounded by olive trees. You can enjoy local dishes typical of the Mediterranean diet with zero kilometer ingredients, seeing the animals or playing a game of chess with giant pieces in the courtyard. Mid-high range.
Drink
[edit]- 1 Cafè du Port, Lungomare Cavallotti (Torre Pali), ☏ +39 349 052-2014. 06:00-02:00. Open air tables where you can enjoy excellent drinks in front of the tourist port of Torre Pali.
- 2 Caffè Roma, Via Roma, 229, ☏ +39 0833 520398. 05:00-00:00 closed on Fridays. A lively bar with many outdoor seating few steps from the old town of Salve, very frequented after dinnertime. Here you can taste coffees, aperitifs, drinks and various snacks in a beautiful square.
- 3 Chiosco Jordan, Largo delle Rose (Posto Vecchio). A small stand beside the beach of Posto Vecchio where you can enjoy ice-creams, snow cones, coffees and brioches between a bathe and the other. It is also the location of two large parties during the nights of the shooting star and Ferragosto eve (10 and 15 August), with live music from about 19:00 to 05:00.
- 4 Titty Twister, Via Pitagora, 2 (Pescoluse), ☏ +39 346 753-5723. 08:00-20:30. Informal bar close to the sea of Pescoluse where to enjoy aperitifs, cold coffees and snacks. It also provides umbrella and sunbed rental service.
Sleep
[edit]- 1 B&B Antica Dimora dei Pepe, Piazza della Repubblica, 41, ☏ +39 320 448-4183, +39 320 917-2671, [email protected]. Renowned B&B inside Palazzo Ceuli, a baroque building in the heart of the old town, with free WiFi and a large terrace where you can enjoy a rich breakfast. This is the ideal place if you prefer to visit monuments, walking down the narrow streets and discovering the inland rather than the crowded beaches.
- 2 Gigli Hotel Salento, Corso Leuca (Pescoluse, facing the roundabout), ☏ +39 0833 528-176, +39 338 568-4045, [email protected]. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 20:00. Modern 3-star hotel few steps away from the beach of Pescoluse. It has 18 rooms, some of them with view of the sea while others with small gardens and a restaurant on the roof.
- 3 Hotel Salento Gold Beach, Corso Leuca, 15 (Pescoluse), ☏ +39 0833 711-062, +39 333 668-5781, [email protected]. Check-in: 13:30, check-out: 10:00. Modern hotel close to the public beach of Pescoluse, with free WiFi, rooms with balconies and an excellent restaurant.
- 4 Antica Masseria Ficazzana, SP 339 km 3,5 (Salve-Pescoluse provincial road), ☏ +39 329 046 9393, [email protected]. Check-in: 17:00, check-out: 10:30. Restored 16th century farmhouse in the quiet countryside but well connected to the beaches of Pescoluse, just 3 mins away by car. Choose between an Only Bed or a B&B formula in a rustic-style estate surrounded by prickly pear cactuses and fig trees, whose fruits you can freely enjoy. Partner beach service and a renowned restaurant are also included.
Stay safe
[edit]Crime is extremely rare and even cases as petty theft are unheard of, to the point that many house owners, especially in the old town, leave front doors completely open during daylight hours, since no menaces are expected due to the relaxed attitude of local inhabitants. There is definitely not much to worry about in Salve.
- Police Station (Comando dei Carabinieri), Via Paolo Borsellino, 3, ☏ +39 0833 528115. Headquarters of law enforcement in the modern town of Salve.
- Emergency medical (Guardia medica), Via Fratelli Cairoli, 15, ☏ +39 0833 741103. 20:00-08:00, public holidays 10:00-08:00.
Cope
[edit]- Pharmacy (Farmacia Villani), Via P.P.Cardone, 5, ☏ +39 0833 741007. Pharmacy and herbal shop close to the old town of Salve.
- Post Office (Poste Italiane), Via Dante Alighieri, 2, ☏ +39 0833 520940. The only post office in the whole municipality, with ATM.
Go next
[edit]- Torre Vado - Adjoining coastal village, rich of activities linked to the sea. (5 min by car)
- Santa Maria di Leuca – Popular tourist destination with a relevant sanctuary and several sea caves to explore. (15 min)
- Gallipoli – Enchanting old town, miles of beaches and buzzing nightlife. (½ hr)
- Otranto – Colorful historic centre with its majestic castle, many beaches and coves to take a bath. (1 hr)
- Lecce – The famous "capital of the Baroque" with its numerous churches and palaces, all of them richly decorated. (1 hr)
Routes through Salve |
Gallipoli ← | N S | → Torre Vado → Santa Maria di Leuca |