Sam Neua Voyage Tips and guide

Contents

Sam Neua is a small town of some 30,000 people, with oversized administrative buildings and quiet streets. There is not too much to see in the town itself, but it can serve as a base for visiting Vieng Xai, and is often a necessary stop-over if coming or going from Vietnam. The surrounding countryside is also beautiful and host to some interesting sites. The town sits at an elevation of 1200m, so while the area is warm from April until October, it is pretty cold the rest of the year!

Hua Phan province, bordering Vietnam, is one of the remotest and most ethnically diverse provinces in Laos. The roads leading there are long and windy (but paved) as you ascend into the mountains.

By Bus

• Phonsavan - daily buses. 8 hours.
• Luang Prabang - two daily buses: one departing around 08:30 and one in the evening. 130,000 kip. 15 hours. The bus stops in Nong Khiaw and passes through Vieng Thong.
• Vietnam - via the Nam Soi-Na Meo border crossing. Bus departs from Thanh Hoa daily at 8:00, and takes 9–10 hours. Lao visa on arrival is available.

By Air

• As of 2024, there are daily flights from Vientiane by Lao Airlines. The old airport in town has been shut down due to size limitations and a history of accidents exascerbated by the town's notorious winter fog. The new airport, Nong Khang airport, is 35km north of town.

• The center of town is easily walkable and there is little traffic.
• There are a few tuk-tuks and taxis around. In town, they tend to congregate around the monument. You might need to take one to get to the Nathong bus station or sights further away from the center.
• There are two bus stations just outside of Sam Neua: the intra-provincial Nathong station for Vieng Xai and other nearby destinations about four kilometers east of the center and one inter-provincial (for Luang Prabang, Phonsavan, Vietnam, etc.) about 1 km south of the center atop a hill.
• Dannao Restaurant is the only place in town renting motorbikes. They only have one or two bikes and charge high prices (225,000 kip for automatic).

• The strange monument at the center of the main roundabout. This is the Suan Keo Lak Meung (ສວນແກ້ວຫຼັກເມືອງ) monument. The shiny ball at the top is a reference to Sam Neua's nickname as an "indestructible jewel" however the effect is quite bizarre.
• Two active temples.
• The wet market on the east side of the river with "exotic" wildlife for sale. Open 06:00 to 18:00.
• Former Pathet Lao Caves in Vieng Xai.
• Namnoua waterfall just off the road between Sam Neua and Vieng Xai.
• Hintang Archaeological Park.

Visit some local villages outside of town. The scenery in the area is stunning, but the only way to experience it is on a rented scooter. Otherwise to get to the caves, ask at the tourist office to book you a driver.

• Local handicrafts: at specialist local shops or the market. Beware of cheap Chinese and Vietnamese goods at the main market, which is just south of the wet market.
• There are around 10 ATMs around town, representing the BCEL, JDB, and LDB banks. Banks advertise currency exchange.

Cheap pho and various small bites, as well as fresh produce, can be found at the market on the east side of the river. A small night market is set up across the street from the city park each evening, with a variety of grilled and deep-fried options to eat. A couple of Vietnamese restaurants are found east of the bridge.

• Chittavanh Restaurant (Attached to Chittavanh Guesthouse). also has an English menu, and locals sometimes eat there too. (updated Apr 2021)

• Dannao Meaung Xam Restaurant (In the guesthouse block, facing the main road). The most popular place. Has an English menu with a number of options for Lao and Western food. Mains 15,000-50,000 kip. (updated Apr 2021)

• Many Coffee (100 m north of the tourist office on the main road). Serves good specialty coffees for 12,000-18,000 kip, various desserts, and fried eggs with baguette for breakfast for 15,000 kip. (updated Apr 2021)

• Omany BBQ (In the northwest part of town). Serves Lao-style hotpot with fish or meat. (updated Apr 2021)

• The streets are generally empty by 21:00, but all restaurants and many guesthouses will sell you Beerlao.
• Many Coffee and Yuni Coffee both serve good specialty coffees on the main road.

Most guest houses are congregated in a couple of blocks between the main road and the southernmost bridge. There are also guest houses and hotels along the main road and on the other side of the river. Most budget options are found on the west side of the river.

• Long Ma Guesthouse (near the bridge). Frequented by locals. 40,000 kip. 
• Shuliy Guesthouse (near the bridge). En suite rooms. 60,000 kip. 
• Bounhome Guesthouse (near the bridge). Clean, comfortable en suite rooms facing the main road. 80,000 kip.
• Phasouk Guesthouse (near the bridge, on the sidestreet next to Dannao Restaurant). Well-maintained, clean rooms with friendly owners. 70,000 kip.

Thieves target tourists on isolated stretches of route 6 near Sam Neua.

There is a helpful provincial Tourist Information Centre in the town, open Monday-Friday. [email protected]. Phone: 064–312567.

• Vieng Xai - rare songthaews from Nathong bus station or take Vietnam-bound buses from main bus station at 8:00 or 10:00. Taxis charge 250K for a day trip. You can either do a day trip to the caves or stay here.
• Vietnam - buses (sometimes minibuses) to Thanh Hoa (180,000 kip) at 8:00 and 10:00. Journey time 10 hours. Pre-purchase your ticket at the bus station. Tickets to Hanoi involve a change of bus in Thanh Hoa. Vietnamese visas are not available at the Nam Soi/Na Meo border crossing.
• Luang Prabang - 12–15 hours by local bus. A long but scenic journey. The bus passes through Vieng Thong (Muang Hiam) and Nong Khiaw and stops on request.
• Phonsavan - 8 hours.