Samoeng (สะเมิง) is in Chiang Mai Province, about 50 km west-northwest of Chiang Mai. Its claims to fame are its delicious strawberries, and the so-called Samoeng Loop, a 100-km circuit through the mountains from Chiang Mai, appropriate for cyclists and motorcyclists. The town is about as Thai as possible, with only the occasional Westerner in sight.
Understand
[edit]Samoeng is a small farming community of perhaps 5,000 inhabitants. It lies in a lovely valley with the valley floor at an elevation of about 550 m.
Samoeng itself contains little of interest (aside from its authenticity) for the tourist with little time to spare. Overwhelmingly, Western visitors come here on their orbit around the Samoeng Loop, a rollicking 100 km mountain circuit famous among bicyclists and motorcyclists. The community is 5 kilometres off the loop at roughly the halfway point from Chiang Mai. It is a good spot to rest, refuel, and relax for an hour. It is also known as the "Strawberry Loop" as the region is famous for them, as numerous roadside stands will demonstrate.
Get in
[edit]From Chiang Mai, head to either Mae Rim or Hang Dong (depending on whether you want to do the circuit clockwise or counter-clockwise), then head for the town of Samoeng, roughly the midpoint of the journey. This will take you to the junction of Rte 1269 and Rte 1096, one of three ways into the town. At the bottom of a long grade, you will come to the valley floor and a T-junction. This junction serves as a navigational reference point. You can go left or you can go right from this point. Either direction will allow you to make a 5 km circuit of the town along a road that skirts the mountains that frame the valley floor.
Turning to the left:
- ...and continuing straight: will lead you to the 7-Eleven (ATM), Bangkok Bank (ATM); Thailand Post; and the (no name) Bed and Breakfast (500 m), and gasoline (1.5 km). Beyond this, the road continues until it devolves into an unmarked dirt road (4.5 km) that is best left to the locals.
- ...and making an almost immediate right (25 m): the town market will be on your left. Straight will take you to the BAAC Bank (ATM) (200 m from the T-junction); gasoline vending machine (300 m on the right); Internet cafe (400 m on the right); Samoeng Guesthouse (900 m on the left); Forest Guesthouse (1.8 km on the left); and Samoeng Resort (2.6 km on the left). At the Samoeng Resort there is a junction with 3 forks. Taking the first right will take you back to Samoeng.
Turning to the right: this direction is signposted Rte 1349 to Pai (170 km). It will lead you to the police station (200 m on the right); Samoeng Massage (600 m on the left); Strawberry Samoeng Farm (1.7 km on the left); PT Gas Station (2.2 km on the left); road junction where Rte 1349 diverges (2.4 km). At this crossroads, Samoeng Resort (2.5 km) is directly in front of you. Turn left at this junction to continue back to Samoeng. The Forest Guesthouse will be on your right at 3.3 km; the Samoeng Guesthouse at 4.2 km. Signposts there will indicate that Rte 1349 (to Pai, 170 km) is to the right.
From Pai you can take Rte 1349, although the road is terrible. Locals almost never take this route, but instead go via Mae Rim. If you are intrepid, plan on a full, long day.
By songthaew
[edit]A yellow songthaew from Chiang Mai (Chang Phuak Bus Station) costs 60 baht and will take roughly 90 minutes to reach Samoeng. You can catch the songthaew Chiang Mai-Samoeng from Chang Phuak Bus Station at 09:00, 10:25, 11:50, 13:15, 14:30, and 16:00. Yellow songthaews to Samoeng also depart from Warorot Market.
Get around
[edit]You must rely on your own transport in Samoeng. Although there is songthaew service to neighbouring communities it is difficult to figure out.
See
[edit]- 1 Royal Agricultural Station Pang Da, Pang Da Rd, Samoeng Tai (on Rte 1269 between km3 and km4). Daily. Specializes in temperate crop propagation. Focus on tropical fruit trees, flowers, beans, vetiver, and rapid-growth woods. Career development out-reach to local farmers. Visitor amenities limited. Free.
Do
[edit]- 1 Pong Kwao Hot Springs Resort & Spa, ☏ +66 86 0123771, [email protected]. Wonderful hot springs. 150 baht (refuse if they try to charge you 200) gets you towels, a wrap, and admission to a small, private bathhouse of your very own enclosing a rock-walled pool of hot water, about the size of a hot tub. Stay as long as you want. The grounds are lovely, with a restaurant/bar on-site and what appears to be a nascent cooking school with lodgings (vacant by the look of them) adjacent. Almost thirty kilometres from Samoeng, over a road that is intermittently great, then terrible. Tents for rent for camping on-site, 350 baht. 150 baht for use of private bath house, towel, sarong.
- Samoeng Massage (right at the T-junction, go 600 m, on your left). 09:00-21:00. 1 hr Thai massage, 150 baht; 1 hr foot massage, 200 baht.
- Teach English at Pittayakhom School. Pittayakhom School is always in need of native English speakers to assist their foreign language staff. Two school terms run from Nov-Mar and May-Oct. Volunteers are placed via the Swiss-Thai NGO, Child's Dream.
- 2 Khun Khan National Park (อุทยานแห่งชาติขุนขาน), ☏ +665-200-0410, [email protected]. Great viewpoints, hot springs caves. 10 baht for children and 20 baht for adults for Thai nationals, and 50 baht for children and 100 baht for non-Thai nationals.
Elephants
[edit]- 3 Patara Elephant Farm, 299/22 Siwalee Rachapreuk MaeHea, ☏ +66 81 671 0958 (English), +66 85 076 8461 (Deutsch), fax: +66 53 286 321, [email protected]. As their website states, "you learn how to ride on its neck". 3,200 up to 5,800 baht including transport and lunch.
Festivals
[edit]- Samoeng Strawberry Festival, ☏ +66 84 3632781, fax: +66 52 080806. February. The biggest strawberry festival in Thailand. The yearly festival coincides with Valentine's Day and a couple of days either side of it. Parade (Saturday), music, dancing, vendors galore (food and otherwise), crowning of Ms. Strawberry. Your basic small town fete.
Buy
[edit]There are 4 ATMs in town:
- Bangkok Bank (main street, across from 7-Eleven)
- Government Savings Bank (at 7-Eleven, across from Bangkok Bank)
- BAAC (left at T-junction, first right turn, on right 100 m)
- Krung Thai Bank (right at T-junction, sign 25 m on right. Machine in front of district office).
Numerous small shops—look for them on the right as you enter town—sell products made in Samoeng. These include everything strawberry: wine, brandy, jam, dried fruit, and, of course, fresh strawberries in season. There is also a banana chip enterprise in town that makes barbeque banana chips, sweet banana chips, and more flavours.
- Fresh Market (ตลาดสด dtà~làat-sòt) (left at the T-junction, on your right about 50 m). Daily, peters out as the day progresses. Variety of fresh and prepared foods. There is a public toilet at the left rear as you face the market from the high street.
- Morning Market (ตลาดเช้า dtà~làat-cháao). M-only, 07:00-12:00.
- Every Monday morning in the centre of town there is a morning market selling new items: clothing, household items, DVDs, etc.
- 7-Eleven (left at the T-junction, on your left about 150 m). 24/7. A reminder that 7-Elevens sell alcohol only between 11:00-14:00 and 17:00-24:00, although neighbouring shops pay no attention to this restriction.
- 1 Mengrai Kilns, 79/2 Arak Rd, Samlan 6, ☏ +66 53-272063, [email protected]. Celadon green-glazed ceramics. Sift through their pile of rejects in the covered area to the right of store and find something interesting.
Eat
[edit]There are many small restaurants in Samoeng.
- Ban Rabiang Lom (บ้านระเบีงลม) (As you come into town on Rte 1269, between km2 and km1), ☏ +66 81 1120420. 11:00-23:00. Spiffy clean restaurant on stilts just as you come into Samoeng. Menus in Thai and English. Strong Wi-Fi. Food good and cheap, but portions small. Order two of everything. The gorgeous owner is named Oi. In low season does not seem to open until about 17:00. Beer, 39 baht; Blue Hawaii, 89 baht; Latte, 39 baht; 2 plates of khao pat gai and a large Leo beer, 119 baht.
- Supanee Restaurant (สุพรรณี) (just short of the T-junction coming into town, on the right side of the road, just up from the strawberry stands; there is a big sign, but only in Thai). 07:00-16:00. Serves up what is reputed to be great cashew chicken and garlic pork in gigantic portions at unfairly low prices.
Drink
[edit]There are no bars per se in Samoeng. Drinking takes place in restaurants, at home, or at some karaoke joints, location unknown.
- Strawberry Samoeng Farm (ไร่สตรอเบอรี่สะเมิง) (turn right at the T-junction and travel about 1.7 km; Strawberry Samoeng is on your left, a two-storey bamboo sala), ☏ +66 86 4267468, +66 53 378112, [email protected]. You can get a good cup of coffee at Strawberry Samoeng, and there is a restaurant. They sell strawberry liquor, strawberry wine, other local products. Free Wi-Fi.
Sleep
[edit]- 1 Baan Lhong Doi Lodge and Restaurant (coming into town on Rte 1269 on your right between km4 and km3), ☏ +66 84 4813358. Geared to a Thai clientele. Nice-looking bungalows just off the road. Attractive restaurant.
- 2 Doi Nok Strawberry Resort, 191 M1 T Samoengtai, A Samoeng (See map on Facebook - Doi Nok Strawberry Resort), ☏ +66 53 487289. Check-in: flexible, check-out: flexible. The lodges are in traditional Thai style, but to western standards and situated in a large traditional terracotta brick wall with views over the strawberry/sunflower field and forest. They have air conditioning, Wi-Fi, refrigerator, flat screen televisions, large beds, hot shower and restaurant. The resort has handouts about things to do in the area. Visitors, including those not staying at the resort, may arrange to pick organic strawberries in the field, in season. The manager speaks English/French/Thai. 3,000 baht/night.
- 3 Forest Guest House (1.3 km from T-junction), ☏ +66 84 3715055, toll-free: +66 84 3715055. Funky collection of rustic cabins on a hillside on the west side of Samoeng Valley. Proprietor is the inimitable Kanita. Everything about staying here is negotiable: price, check-in, check-out, meals. She is prepared to offer Thai cooking lessons, act as your local guide, and do other things to enhance your stay. 300-3000 baht.
- 4 Lhong Khao Samoeng (หลองข้าวสะเมิง), 241 Moo 9 (in Samoeng. Turn left at the T-junction; straight on past the 7-Eleven, for ~300 m, on your right hand side, well signposted), ☏ +66 86 977 1719. Calls itself a bed & breakfast, but it is so much more than that. Bills itself as an "organic homestay", whatever that is. 30 cute rooms of varying sizes (Thai northern style), all with super bath facilities. All beds have mosquito nets that lend the beds a romantic aura. On 12 rai of gardens, strawberry patches, and rice fields stretching away to the nearby hills. Free Wi-Fi. Breakfast is (Thai) puri rice with pork. Host is an engaging young lady named "Khun Taew" who speaks excellent English. 1,700-5,000 baht depending on room and season.
- Rai Napa-Phupa Guesthouse, 203 Moo 10 (coming into town on Rte 1269, between km3 and km2, about 100 m off the road; it is signposted), ☏ +66 53 378414-5, +66 81 6039800. Again, Thai clientele mostly. Appear to have bungalows. They advertise their coffee shop.
- 5 Samoeng Guesthouse (900 m from T-junction; at the T, turn left, then an almost immediate right turn, continue around the loop till you see it on your left), ☏ +66 53 487069.
- 6 Samoeng Resort, 79 Moo 2, Samoengtai (turn right at T-junction, continue for 2.5 km to an intersection; the resort is right in front of you), ☏ +66 85 2540271, [email protected]. Samoeng Resort and Nature Observation Centre is an eco-adventure lodge and retreat centre located in Samoeng Valley near Khun Khan National Park.
Connect
[edit]- Pum Pai Internet (400 m from T-junction: left, first right, on right ~300 m). 10:00-22:30 on school days, 24:00 on weekends. Frequented mostly by young village boys addicted to Internet gaming. It is possible to pop in to read email.
- Thailand Post (ไปรษณีย์ไทย) (left at the T-junction coming into town, down the road ~150 m on the right). M-F, 08:30-16:30.
Cope
[edit]Gasoline/petrol
[edit]There are at least 4 places to buy gas in Samoeng, and probably more. Prices are in excess of 50 baht per litre:
- Station coming into town on Rte 1269, on the left, approximately km3.
- Gas vending machine on first secondary road heading west from main street.
- Station on left of Rte 1349 towards Pai. At the T-junction, turn right, travel ~1.5 km.
- Hand-pumped gas about 1.5 km down the high street on your right after turning left at the T-junction.
Laundry
[edit]- Laundry Service (left-rear of the fresh market square in one of the shop fronts that define the border of the square. As you stand on the main road facing the market, head for the shop in the back, furthest left, in the neighbourhood of the public toilets). Inexpensive..
Go next
[edit]- Continue on the Samoeng Loop to Chiang Mai or Mae Rim.
- Pai
