Sayula is a small colonial town in a mountainous region of southwestern Mexico in the state of Jalisco. The town is known as the birthplace of Juan Rulfo, one of Mexico's most prominent literary figures. It is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.
Understand
[edit]The town has a population just over 28,000 (2020). It was settled long before the Spanish conquest and officially recognized as a Spanish town with the arrival of conquistador Alonso de Ávalos Saavedra, cousin of Hernan Cortes, in 1521.
The town is well known as the birthplace of Writer Juan Rulfo, and is also the hometown of a modern poet, Rebeca Uribe, who composed most of her work in the first half of the 20th century.
Get in
[edit]
The town lies about 100 km south of Guadalajara and South of Lake Chapala. The nearest airport is Guadalajara International Airport (GDL IATA).
By bus
[edit]Buses from Guadalajara to Sayula leave from both the new and old bus stations in Guadalajara. The best (easiest and most comfortable) option is to take the subway to Central Camionera go to the Autovias/La Linea counter and buy a ticket on Sur de Jalisco to Sayula. The first-class bus trip takes just under 3 hours and costs M$161 (US$8) (November 2024).
- 1 Central Camionera Sur de Jalisco, Independencia 28-38. Daily 06:00 - 21:00. Small bus station handling incoming and outgoing buses on the Sur de Jalisco bus line with destinations including Guadalajara, Ciudad Guzman, San Gabriel, and Tonaya. The terminal is small and crowded and lacks amenities like a parking lot (or even dedicated space for buses to load and unload). Rest rooms are available in the terminal and there are places to buy snacks in the adjacent local businesses.
By car
[edit]You could rent a car and drive, though having to deal with traffic in the Guadalajara Metro area is a fate worse than torture. If you insist though, it's not overly complicated. From Guadalajara, take federal highway MEX-80 south to Acatlan then toll highway MEX-54D to Sayula. The trip takes just under 3 hours.
Get around
[edit]Walking is the best way to get around the historic downtown (Centro) area, but taxis are readily available for further explorations. Taxis are generally yellow and white Nissans. They gather at a sitios next to the main plaza. This is a small, remote town so ride-hailing apps like Uber are basically useless.
See
[edit]- 1 Casa de la Cultura Juan Rulfo (Juan Rulfo Cultural Museum), Calle 16 de Septiembre, Centro. Small regional history museum with 3 galleries including one dedicated to archaeology in the region (including several ceramic pots) and another dedicated to metallurgy. There are also exhibits about Juan Rulfo and his connection to the town and impact on modern Mexican literature.
- 2 Cuchillos Ojeda, Calle Benito Juárez, Centro Histórico. Daily 10:00 - 20:00. For 13 generations, the Ojeda family has been masters of the steel blade, forging artesanal swords, knives, machetes, and kitchen ware. Stop in to see cutlery being made by master craftsmen, learn a bit about the history of Ojeda knives, and if you have the money, but a memorable piece that can last a lifetime.
- 3 Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (Sanctuary of Our Lady of Guadalupe), Lienzo Charro Guadalupe. Tranquil church dating from 1646 that honors Mexico's patron saint, it loses its tranquil character between December 4-12 when religious pilgrims in the region descend on the church for a week of parades, dancing and celebration in the plaza to honor Mary. The church houses a large collection of sacred art decorating the ceilings, walls, and arches and that includes statues, paintings and other works brought to Mexico by the Franciscans during the colonial era. A Museum of Sacred Art is on site here and displays many of the most historically and culturally significant pieces. The church also contains the tomb of Franciscan friars, José María Casillas Barba.
- 4 Parroquia de la Inmaculada Concepcion (Church of the Immaculate Conception), Calle Benito Juarez 5, Centro. Large central church built in the 18th century of pink quarry with a neoclassic interior and a an exterior featuring an elaborate churrigueresque facade and a single bell tower. The interior is a warm creamy white stucco with a fancy gold altar and huge chandeliers. The showpiece of the church is a series of frescoes murals.
Do
[edit]The town has many natural attractions nearby including mountains, waterfalls, caves, and petroglyphs. There are places for rock climbing, para sailing (parapente), caving and other extreme sports activities.
- Laguna de Sayula is a large lake covering almost 17,000 hectares of surface area on the town's northern boundary. It is a Ramsar wetland and a habitat for migratory birds.
Festivals
[edit]- Carnaval - The biggest party of the year is held in late February to early March, the exact dates always change depending on when Easter occurs. In Sayula, the celebration includes grand parades, concerts by well known performers, lots of drunken revelry, and even bullfights and fireworks.
- Festival Rulfiano de las Artes - The annual arts festival is held in November and includes literature, painting, Sculpture, film, ceramics, and photography, featuring exhibitions and lectures as well as opportunities to eat and drink.
Buy
[edit]- 1 Mercado Municipal "Benito Juarez", Independencia 31. Daily 08:00 - 17:00. The town's traditional marketplace is a lively place where vendors arrive early in the morning with stockpiles of freshly picked fruits and vegetables as well as meats, seafood, and dairy products. A section for prepared foods offers a dizzying selection of traditional regional foods, usually more affordable priced than eating at restaurants. You can also find a large number of vendors selling household items, auto parts, and anything else you might need in life.
Eat
[edit]Many of Jalisco's traditional regional dishes, such as birria, are commonly served in Sayula. The town's own epicurean tradition is the making of cajeta, a caramel based on cow's milk.
- 1 Cantinflas, Gral. Manuel Ávila Camacho 37, Centro Histórico, ☏ +52 342 117 9512. Daily 13:00 - 23:00. Comfortably casual restaurant serving a variety of traditional Mexican dishes including grilled meats and seafood. Good ambiance with an outdoor deck and occasional live music. Family friendly, generous portions, and affordable prices. M$300+.
- 2 Carnes Asadas René, Del Ejército 284-C, 20 de Septiembre, ☏ +52 3424210892. M,W,Th,F 12:00 - 17:00; Sa-Su 10:00 - 18:00, closed Tu. Mexican steakhouse serving arracherra, costillas, and grilled steaks and burgers. Friendly service and fun casual atmosphere. M$300.
- 3 Chilaquiles de Sayula, Independencia 155, ☏ +52 342 690 3571. Daily 08:00 - 01:30. Excellent chilaquiles topped with shredded chicken and cheese. Fresh made coffee in the morning with sweet breads and natural (fresh squeezed) orange juice. M$200.
- 4 Casa de los Patios, Avenida Ignacio Luis Vallarta 89, ☏ +52 342 109 7143. Daily 06:30 - 18:30. Cozy traditional Mexican restaurant inside a small hotel. Family friendly and comfortable. Buffet available in the mornings. M$200.
- 5 Restaurante Campestre el Caporal, Cjon. de las Mulas 81, Magisterio. Big outdoor dining area serving traditional grilled meats including arracherra, leg of lamb, costillas and more. Comfortable, fun atmosphere with mariachis providing musical accompaniment. M$250.
Drink
[edit]Sleep
[edit]- 1 Gran Casa Sayula Hotel Galeria & Spa, Gral. Manuel Ávila Camacho 73, Centro Histórico, ☏ +52 342 421 1321. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Comfortable upscale hotel with modern renovated bath fixtures, upscale sheets, soaps and shampoo, an on-site spa with massage and hydrotherapy sessions, a heated swimming pool and an upscale restaurant with a full bar. M$1500.
- 2 Hotel la Provincia, C. Ramón Corona 65, Centro, ☏ +52 342 422 2644. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 10:00. Moderate hotel with a traditional colonial atmosphere and rooms organized around a central courtyard atrium. Furnishings are modern with smart TVs and good WiFi connectivity throughout the building. Comfortable, clean, spacious rooms. On-site restaurant serves a full breakfast menu. M$1500 (Nov 2024).
- 3 Mama Chuchita Hostal, 5 de Mayo 33, ☏ +52 333 440 0038. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Guesthouse in a traditional colonial casona with antiques and traditional Mexican furnishings and decorations, such as old-style tilework in the kitchen and bathrooms, wrought iron hardware, and hefty ceramic tile floors. Beautiful property with a lush garden courtyard. Attentive service. M$1000.