This is an itinerary for exploring a mountain range in Oaxaca, Mexico. Do not confuse this region with the Sierra Norte de Sevilla in Spain.
Sierra Norte de Oaxaca is a mountainous region in Oaxaca that is a well-known itinerary that explores a hiking trail that connects small Zapotec villages. The Sierra Norte de Oaxaca is a sub-range of the Sierra Madre del Sur mountain range, which covers most of the state of Oaxaca in southern Mexico. The Sierra Norte can be a challenging, but richly rewarding, area to visit. Challenging because it is remote and requires a reasonable level of fitness (and a tough skin because nothing will be sugar-coated or involve pampering). It is best for the experienced trekker who can hike 20 km per day with steep elevation changes and who is very flexible about food, accommodations and transportation options (or rather, the lack thereof, unless you consider a burro a vehicle). It rewards travelers who can boldly travel "off the beaten path" as you may have difficulty finding guides on your own, let alone anyone who can speak English (or even Spanish, for that matter). If you try visiting without guides you will likely find it difficult to communicate since the predominate language is Zapotec. If you don't mind going "where no gringo has gone before", then you'll find spectacular mountain landscapes and experience an authentic slice of Mexican culture that even few Mexicans know exists. In 2025, Travel + Leisure magazine listed it as one of the world's 10 best "Not Hot" destinations (places that are quite unpopular, never crowded, yet utterly spectacular).
Understand
[edit]The term Pueblos Mancomunados actually refers to a co-op established by the local Zapotec communities to create a sustainable tourism destination that would appeal to an active, curious eco-tourist. The area is usually referred to as Sierra Norte, but that term is rather generic and could refer to other regions in Mexico (or other countries). The Sierra Norte region covers an area of about 25,000 hectares and has a total of about 2,400 residents in all of its 10 villages and outlying homesteads.
Eight villages are part of the co-op (there are two that do not participate). The co-op hires 120 members of the local community to operate all aspects of the tourism operation, from reservations agents, to tour guides, or even the local hosts who operate guest cabins in each of the eight villages. The co-op's goal is to provide extremely high-quality experiences for a very small number of visitors.
Tourist information
[edit]- Sierra Norte Expeditions, ☏ +52 951-514-82-71. Official information about the region and available travel services is available from this not-for-profit business, which is part of the Zapotec co-op, owned and operated by the indigenous community). WhatsApp: +52 951 226 8395
Prepare
[edit]Sierra Norte Expeditions handles all arrangements, and fortunately for those who like hiking better than backpacking, no overnight camping is required. Sierra Norte Expeditions has cabins in every village where local Zapotec community members clean and maintain the lodging (including keeping it stocked with firewood). Other members of the community cook traditional Zapotec dishes for travelers. In each village there are also activities and sights to see, including stunning mountain vistas, opportunities for Birdwatching or observing nature, or learning about Zapotec culture first-hand from native hosts. Some towns have activities like zip lines or swimming holes, at least one has a Temazcal for travelers who would like to try the pre-Hispanic version of a spa treatment.
Preparation mostly involves figuring out what's offered, making reservations, and packing suitable comfortable clothes. Sturdy hiking boots are a must, as are comfortable socks and clothing appropriate to the season. Remember that the mountains in the Sierra Norte top out at about 3,500 meters, which is plenty high for some chilly nights.
Get in
[edit]The nearest airport with commercial airline service is Oaxaca International Airport (OAX IATA). The airport is about 65 km south of the Sierra Norte. Taxis from the airport may be possible, but would be much more expensive than using a bus. Transportation directly from the airport can be arranged when you make arrangements through Expediciones Sierra Norte. (This is the recommended approach because many of the villages are difficult to reach with no roads, no phones, and no internet. None of the villages is larger than about 200 people.)
Sierra Norte is a mountain range and access to the villages could be made at various places. The best are likely to be Cuajimoloya if you are driving a car or Benito Juarez if you are riding a bus. These are the only two villages that are accessible by road.
Get around
[edit]The hiking trail is very well maintained and marked. The trail runs 100 km in a loop through the mountains, which
By bus
[edit]Cuenca (an ADO bus company) operates 10 buses per day that go direct from the main bus terminal in Oaxaca to Ixtlan de Juarez (aka Benito Juarez). The 90-minute ride costs about M$100.
Long-distance buses from Oaxaca to Veracruz drive north on highway MEX-175, which skirts the western edge of the Sierra Norte, however, there do not appear to be stops in villages or towns in that area, though access via that route may be possible if you inquire locally.
Villages
[edit]- Benito Juarez: Easy village to reach by road, most popular of the eight villages, and starting point for many treks into the Sierra Norte. Dense mountain forests with multiple hiking trails that are also suitable for mountain biking or horseback riding. There are trout farms, waterfalls, scenic overlooks, a 300-meter zipline, and a suspension bridge.
- Cuajimoloyas: Traditional medicine center that focuses on plant-based medicine. Trails go to nearby scenic overlooks and the Coyote Canyon. 1-km zipline. The last weekend in July is the wild mushroom festival, featuring mushroom hunting trips into the forest.
- Llano Grande: Small village hidden by surrounding forest. Known for its high degree of biodiversity. Nearby waterfalls include El Pinabete. Hiking trail to Mirador de las Torres.
- La Neveria (also known as Latzi Belli): Cool (as in, it gets cold here) highland village. Reached by dirt road from Benito Juarez. Five hiking routes and three mountain bike routes. Pine forests with many orchids.
- Latuvi: Nearby waterfall with hiking trails in the forest to miradores (scenic overlooks). A temazcal offers a traditional Zapotec spa treatment. Pulque and tepache are made here.
- Lachatao: Perched atop a mountain, the steeple of Santa Catarina church can be seen from a distance. The town has cobblestone streets and adobe houses. A small community museum showcases local archaeological pieces and you can hear tales of the mystical power of the Cerro del Jaguar.
- Amatlan: Small village of 400 residents with a small museum that documents Zapotec history with artifacts and historical maps. A temazcal offers a traditional spa experience and offers massage.
- Yaveste