Tocuaro is a small village of about 600 residents in the Lake Patzcuaro region of Michoacan, Mexico. Travelers seeking high-quality traditional folk arts come to Tocuaro to visit the workshops of wood carvers making ceremonial masks.
Understand
[edit]
Tocuaro is one of the traditional crafts villages of the P'urhepecha indigenous culture that adopted a craft based on the teachings of Don Vasco, the first Bishop of Michoacan. (See Ruta Don Vasco for more about the history of the region). Craftsmen in Tocuaro hand-carve and decorate traditional wooden masks.
The wood used by Tocuaro mask makers is usually either copal or avocado. Copal is light, soft and easily carved. In its fresh form it is harvested for its amber resin used to make incense for traditional indigenous ceremonies. It is also prized among wood carvers for its pliability. It is a favorite material of wood carvers as well as artisans in Oaxaca making colorful alebrijes. Avocado is a harder wood but is prized for its durability. A copal mask will be lighter and more comfortable to wear, but an avocado mask might last generations.
Masks are made of animal and human faces, but some of the most dramatic (and popular) masks are devils and demons. Facial features are painted on the mask which may have animal hair glued on or even jewelry or other objects.
Get in
[edit]The nearest commercial airport is in Morelia. From there (or anywhere in Michoacan), take a bus to Patzcuaro. From Patzcuaro, a taxi to the nearby village of Tocuaro will take about 10 minutes.
Get around
[edit]Tocuaro is a very small village and is easiest to get around by walking.
See
[edit]Visit the workshops (talleres) of artisans making traditional hand-carved and painted ceremonial masks. A number of workshops welcome visitors to watch masks being made.
Do
[edit]Buy
[edit]- 1 Taller de Juan Jose Horta Ramos, Morelos 17. Daily 09:00 - 19:00. The Horta family are some of the best-known craftsmen in Tocuaro. The quality is excellent and the family welcomes visitors to observe work in progress.
- 2 Taller de Felipe Horta, Morelos, ☏ +52 443 391 9718. Daily 10:00 - 19:00. Second generation wood carver (and nephew of Juan), Felipe and his wife welcome visitors to their workshop where masks of all types are on display (and available for sale). Many of the masks are commissioned by performers in traditional dance troups from other towns and regions.
- 3 Taller Hermanos Tera, Carr. Patzcuaro- Chupícuaro. Craft workshop welcomes visitors to see their gallery of completed works and observe new works in progress. Makes mostly wood sculptures for decorative use with masks making up a minor portion of their output.
- 4 Mascaras Juan Carlos Sierra, Carr. Patzcuaro - Chupicuaro, ☏ +52 434 112 3264. Workshop specializing in carved wooden masks but also producing wood sculptures, particularly those with a religious theme.
Eat
[edit]There are not many options for food in Tocuaro, but if you can't find something to your liking, Patzcuaro is only a few minutes by taxi and has a wider variety.
- 1 Mariscos El Pameño, Carr. Erongarícuaro - Chupícuaro esq. 3 de Mayo, ☏ +52 443 356 1672. W-M 09:00 - 18:30, closed Tu. Traditional Mexican kitchen specializing in seafood. Menu items include ceviche, shrimp cocktails, octopus (pulpo), and various styles of fish filets. Large micheladas (1.2 litre). Free parking but lot is rather small. M$200.
Drink
[edit]Sleep
[edit]There are no hotels in Tocuaro, but you might find an airbnb in town. A better selection of rooms can be found in nearby Patzcuaro.