The Tour du Mont Blanc or TMB is one of the most popular long distance walks in Europe. It circles the Mont Blanc Massif covering a distance of roughly 170 km with 10 km of ascent and passes through parts of Switzerland, Italy and France.
Understand
[edit]It is considered one of the classic long distance walking trails. The circular route is normally walked in an anti-clockwise direction in 7 to 10 days. It is also the route of an annual mountain marathon in which the winner normally covers the entire distance in less than 24 hours. Usual start points are Les Houches in the Chamonix valley or Les Contamines in the Montjoie valley (in France), Courmayeur from the Italian side, and either Champex or a point near Martigny in Switzerland. The route passes through seven valleys around the Mont-Blanc massif, an anti-clockwise start in Chamonix would lead through the Chamonix (or Arve) valley, then Montjoie, Vallee des Glaciers, Italian Val Veni, & Val Ferret, Swiss Val Ferret, and either the Arpette or Trient valley in Switzerland, dependent on route taken.
The ‘official’ route has changed over the course of the years and many alternatives, or ‘Variantes’, exist to the standard route. Some of these take the intrepid walker onto paths requiring greater fitness, awareness and skill. Others provide conveniently less demanding options, which are often quicker than the accepted route but provide lesser viewpoints onto the mountain ranges. For a part of the way, between the summit of Brevent and the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, the route coincides with the European long distance footpath GR5 as it makes its way from the North Sea to the Mediterranean Sea. A link can also be made with the walkers Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt in the Swiss Alps.
The highest points on any variant of the trail are the Col des Fours in France and the Fenetre d'Arpette in Switzerland, both at an altitude of 2,665m (8,743 ft). Although, for most, this is not high enough to cause altitude sickness, the trail nevertheless represents a tough physical proposition. Experience of walking in mountain country should be considered vital. In addition the weather can change very rapidly indeed and one should always be suitably equipped for the challenge.
Prepare
[edit]No permits are required, but you must carry a passport to cross the borders of France, Italy, and Switzerland. The route is a demanding alpine trek with steep, rocky climbs that are unsuitable for wheelchairs, strollers, or carts. While you can carry your own gear, many hikers use professional luggage transport services to move bags between hotels and refuges, allowing them to hike with only a daypack. Sturdy boots and trekking poles are essential for the constant elevation changes.
Eat
[edit]You don't need to haul a week of rations or a heavy stove across the Alps. The TMB is a "civilized" trek where most hikers rely on the excellent half-board service at mountain refuges, which includes a multi-course dinner and breakfast. During the day, trailside buvettes and restaurants serve hot meals, while supermarkets in valley towns like Courmayeur or Les Contamines allow you to restock on local cheese and bread. If you are camping, you will generally need your own lightweight stove, though some organized campsites offer basic communal kitchen facilities.
Drink
[edit]Hydration is manageable with a standard 2-liter capacity. Potable water is readily available at every refuge and from village fountains, which are typically fed by clean mountain springs unless marked eau non-potable. While the wild streams look inviting, they often flow through high-altitude grazing lands for cattle and sheep; consequently, you should use a filter or purification tablets if drawing water from the trail. Avoid grey, silty glacial meltwater entirely, as the fine sediment is difficult to filter and can cause stomach distress.
Sleep
[edit]Plentiful accommodations exist along the entire route, allowing the route to be broken into segments to suit virtually any fit person. The accommodation takes a variety of forms, from separate bedrooms to large mixed sex dormitories. One can normally obtain cooked meals at many of these places. With a start at Les Houches one might expect overnight stops at Les Contamines, Col de la Croix du Bonhomme refuge or Les Chapieux (depending on variant route taken), Elisabetta Soldini refuge, Courmayeur, Elena refuge, Champex, Trient village, Argentiere, La Flegere refuge and finally back to Les Houches. The sheer abundance of accommodation makes for very flexible route-planning and many options exist besides these. Despite this wealth of choice the tremendous popularity of the trail can lead to problems finding accommodations, especially towards the end of the day. It is, however, possible to book accommodation in advance.
Climate
[edit]The trekking season is narrow, restricted to the summer window between mid-June and mid-September. Expect pleasant valley temperatures, but be prepared for sudden alpine shifts where it can drop toward freezing on high passes or during frequent afternoon thunderstorms. While you can the route in July and August, early-season hikers in June should carry micro-spikes and poles to navigate lingering snow patches. Outside of these months, the trail is effectively closed to hikers due to heavy snow and significant avalanche risk.
Get in
[edit]Most hikers begin their journey in the Chamonix Valley, specifically at Les Houches. To get there, fly into Geneva Airport (GVA IATA), which serves as the primary international gateway. From the airport, numerous shared shuttle services and buses can whisk you across the French border to Chamonix in about 90 minutes. Alternatively, you can arrive by train via the Saint-Gervais-les-Bains Le Fayet station, connecting to the scenic Mont Blanc Express. If you prefer to start in Italy or Switzerland, Courmayeur and Champex-Lac are also accessible via regional bus networks.
Walk
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The trail starts from 1 Les Houches. This is a challenging opening stage with a significant climb leading to the 1 Refuge du Truc.
A shorter and gentler leg of the journey. The path continues towards the accommodation at 2 La Balme.
This section requires a solid effort to reach 3 Les Mottets.
A longer day of hiking where the route climbs steadily to the high point at 4 Col de Chercroui.
A brief, predominantly downhill section dropping sharply into the major town of 2 Courmayeur.
Short but steep, this leg leaves the town behind to reach 5 Rifugio Bertone.
This is a substantial stage with significant elevation changes before arriving at 6 Rifugio Elena.
The longest distance of the circuit. This demanding trek heads toward the lakeside village of 3 Champex.
A hike featuring a serious climb to reach the destination at 7 Le Peuty.
Another day with significant elevation gain, ending at 8 Tre-le-Champ.
A moderate stage along the trail to reach 9 Refuge Flegere.
The closing leg of the loop returns to the start, dropping back down to Les Houches.
Stay safe
[edit]The Tour du Mont Blanc is a demanding trek that requires respect for the high-alpine environment. Rapid weather changes are common; even in mid-summer, temperatures can plummet, and snow or thunderstorms can roll in with little warning. Always carry high-quality waterproof gear and check local forecasts (such as Meteo Blue) before crossing high passes. While the trails are well-marked, physical conditioning is vital to prevent fatigue-related injuries on steep descents. Be aware of your limits regarding vertigo on more exposed sections, and ensure you have comprehensive mountain rescue insurance, as helicopter evacuations in the Alps are frequent and expensive.
Go next
[edit]Once you have completed the loop, you are perfectly positioned to explore more of the Alps. From Chamonix, take the Aiguille du Midi cable car for staggering views of the Mont Blanc summit without the climb. If your legs aren't too tired, you might transition onto the Haute Route, a legendary trek that leads from Chamonix all the way to Zermatt. For a change of pace, head south to the Vanoise National Park for quieter trails, or take a high-speed train from Annecy to Paris or Lyon to trade rugged peaks for urban culture.
