Tsavo East National Park Voyage Tips and guide

Tsavo East National Park is in the Southern Rift Valley of Kenya. Tsavo East is more popular than its slightly smaller brother, Tsavo West National Park, due to its proximity to Mombasa and its drier, more barren landscape that makes wildlife easier to spot.

The best time to see wildlife in Tsavo East is from August through September, when the grass is lower and the viewing distances longer. That said, safaris will be more expensive during this period. If you're on a budget, you may want to consider the low season from May through June.

Tsavo was the hunting ground of the infamous Tsavo Man-Easters, two lions that were responsible for the deaths of many construction workers on the Kenya–Uganda Railway during 1898. (This saga was dramatised in the 1997 Hollywood film The Ghost and the Darkness.) The national park was established on 1 April 1948 with an area of 21,812 km² (8,422 sq mi). It was the largest park in Kenya for just a month, as the park was then divided in two in order to ease its administration. The dividing line for the parks is today's Nairobi–Mombassa railroad.

Tsavo East is characterised by dry, flat plains, crossed by the Galana River, around which is a swampy marshland.

The park is home to elephant, rhino, buffalo, lion, leopard, hippos, crocodile, waterbucks, kudu, gerenuk and hirola, among others. Fauna is dominated by dry grass land and thorny bushes.

It's usually warm and dry. The temperature is fairly constant year round, but the rainfall varies. The temperature ranges from 27–31 °C (81–88 °F) in the daytime to 22–24 °C (72–75 °F) at night. The long rainy season lasts from March until May, and the rainfall is usually heavy, making this a bad time for wildlife safaris. There is also a short rainy season from October to December, but the weather during this period is nice enough for safaris – just expect some afternoon showers. Humidity is high from December through April.

There are four gates for Tsavo East: Voi Gate (the main gate), Manyani Gate, Buchuma Gate and Sala Gate. However, a smartcard is needed to enter the park, and this can only be obtained at Voi gate. (The smartcard can also be obtained at the main gates of Nairobi National Park and Lake Nakuru National Park, as well as the Mombasa office of the Kenya Wildlife Service. Also note that proof of identity is required for Kenyan resident discount cards). You then need to put money on the card. This can be done at the Voi Gate, or at any location where you obtained your card. Once you have your card loaded with money, any gate will do – the entrance fee will be deducted from your card.

Entrance fees per day:

• Adult resident – Ksh 1200
• Children resident – Ksh 600
• Adult non resident – US$75
• Children non resident – US$40

Vehicle fees per day:

• Less than 6 seats – Ksh 200
• 6 to 12 seats – Ksh 600

Though you can tour the park on your own, it's usually best to hire a safari operator to guide you and, most importantly, find you the wildlife.

• Yatta Plateau – A roughly 290-kilometre-long (180 mi) lava flow; one of the world's longest.
• Lugards Falls – On the Galana river. Not a true waterfall but rather a series of rapids.
• Mudanda Rock – A long, rocky outcrop running about 1.6 km (1 mi) long. There is a dam at the base which creates a watering hole for animals.
• Aruba Dam - Built in 1952 across the Voi River. The dam attracts both animals and waterfowl.
• Tsavo River/Athi River confluence – where the two rivers join to form the Galana river

• Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary – A sanctuary for the critically-endangered black rhino

Shopping opportunities inside Tsavo East National Park are limited, so visitors should purchase most food, water, fuel, medicines, and other essentials before entering the park. Voi is the most convenient place to stock up for visitors approaching from the west or south.

The Kenya Wildlife Service operates official gift shops at Voi Gate and Sala Gate, selling KWS-branded souvenirs, curios, park maps, and wildlife guidebooks.

Many lodges and tented camps also have small souvenir shops. Typical items include:

• Carved wooden elephants and other wildlife
• Kenyan beadwork and jewelry
• Maasai and Kamba handicrafts
• Safari clothing and hats
• Wildlife books and postcards
• Locally produced coffee and tea

Crafts may also be available in communities outside the park, particularly around Voi and along the main Nairobi–Mombasa corridor. Buying directly from local artisans can be a good way to support communities surrounding the Tsavo ecosystem.

Bring sufficient cash for small purchases, although larger lodges may accept cards or mobile payments. Do not purchase ivory, skins, horns, feathers, or other wildlife products whose legal origin cannot be established.

Visitors should also remember that Kenya's national parks are single-use-plastic-free, so avoid bringing prohibited disposable plastic items into the park.

Your safari operator should, in most cases, provide catered food. Otherwise there is food at the lodges.

In the lodges the prices for soft drinks are about Ksh 150ksh, while beer is roughly Ksh 350 and wine Ksh 400. Water is free in most camps. Prices for drinks in the safari vehicles should be about the same.

There are many places to stay inside the park (more expensive) and outside the park (less expensive). The downside to staying outside the park is that you have to drive through the gate again, which takes time.

• Sarova Saltlick Lodge
• Voi Lodge – One of the more scenic lodges in Tsavo East
• Sentrim Lodge^{[dead link]}
• Satao Camp
• Ashnil Aruba^{[dead link]}
• Lion Hill Lodge

Most campsites lack fencing and animals – elephants in particular – are able to roam around them. Depending on your perspective, this can be unnerving or exhilarating (or both).

Tsavo East is generally safe for safari visitors, but it is a vast and relatively remote wilderness. KWS maintains ranger patrols and visitor-security operations, but travelers should observe park regulations and remain aware of wildlife, heat, road conditions, and the long distances between services.

Wildlife is the main immediate hazard. Tsavo contains elephants, lions, buffaloes, leopards, hippos and other potentially dangerous animals. Remain inside your vehicle except at officially designated places, keep doors closed, and never attempt to feed or approach wildlife. KWS requires visitors to stay at least 20 m from animals and to give them the right of way. Elephants are particularly common in Tsavo East; never drive between members of a herd or block an elephant's path.

Drive slowly. The park speed limit is 40 km/h (25 mph), and off-road driving is prohibited. Roads can be dusty and heavily corrugated during dry periods and muddy after rainfall. Carry adequate drinking water, food, a first-aid kit and other basic supplies, particularly when exploring less-visited sections of the park. KWS specifically recommends bringing water, sunscreen, insect repellent and a first-aid kit.

Observe park hours carefully. KWS states that gates normally open at 6AM and close at 6PM, except for visitors staying overnight. Avoid attempting long drives close to closing time, since distances across Tsavo are substantial and wildlife can slow your journey.

The climate is hot and often very dry. Dehydration and sun exposure can become serious during long game drives, so drink plenty of water and use sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat. Mosquitoes and other biting insects occur in the region; use repellent and seek current medical advice concerning malaria precautions before traveling.

Many safari camps are unfenced, allowing wildlife to move through the grounds. After dark, follow lodge instructions and use an escort when one is provided. Do not leave food outside tents or rooms, and never investigate animal noises on foot.

Campers should be particularly cautious. Wildlife may pass close to campsites, fires should never be left unattended, and food and rubbish should be secured. KWS operates both public and special campsites within Tsavo East.

Crime within the park is uncommon, but normal precautions still apply around transport hubs and towns outside the reserve: keep valuables concealed, lock vehicles and avoid isolated areas after dark. KWS likewise advises visitors to take ordinary urban precautions outside protected areas.

With a reliable vehicle, adequate supplies, and respect for KWS rules and ranger instructions, Tsavo East is a safe and rewarding safari destination.

• Tsavo West National Park
• Mombasa