Van (pronounced vahn in Turkish or wahn in Kurdish) is a city in Eastern Anatolia in Turkey. It's on the eastern shore of Lake Van near the border with Iran, so for Iranians it's an unlikely Reno, a holiday break from their restrictive theocracy. For western visitors it gives a glimpse of the vanished Urartu and Armenian civilisations. In 2024 the city population was 523,000, with about the same again in the rest of Van province.
Understand
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Van is near the eastern shore of Lake Van (Van Gölü), a soda-salt lake also known locally as Van Denizi ("the sea of Van") for its size – it's the largest lake in Turkey. The lake surface is 1640 metres above sea level and ringed by high mountains, so the area has a harsh continental climate. An active tectonic boundary runs beneath, so earthquakes are not uncommon, and the nearby volcano Mount Nemrut is only dormant, not extinct.
The region was the centre of the kingdom of Urartu from the 9th to 6th centuries BC. This Iron Age people named their country Biainili, which morphed into "Van". From the 2nd century BC it was part of the kingdom of Armenian. Afterwards, Van was ruled by the Byzantines, Seljuks, and Ottomans. At its dramatic lakeside setting just beneath the striking rock of the castle, the multicultural Van of old was known as one of the most beautiful cities of "the East", and was especially famous for its fine silverwork and the jewellers' bazaar on the Silk Road. During World War I, the Ottoman Empire and the Russian Empire fought for the city. After retaking the city, the Ottomans massacred the local Armenian population as part of the Armenian genocide. By the end of the war the old city had been devastated. The remaining inhabitants relocated to the city's present site 5 km further east. What was left of the old walled city was later reduced to rubble by strong earthquakes, including a 7.1-magnitude quake in 2011. Only a couple of mosques have been rebuilt.
Talk
[edit]Local people speak Turkish and Kurdish. Young people may understand basic English.
Get in
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By road
[edit]Highway D300 transects Turkey from Izmir on the Aegean coast via Konya, Kayseri, Malatya, Bitlis and Van right up to the border with Iran at Razi. It's a good fast highway, mostly undivided, but priority for the snowplows in winter.
From Ankara take O-21 south (toll) then join D300 towards Kayseri. You could also take D200 / E88 east past Sivas and Erzincan.
By bus
[edit]Buses run several times a day from Ankara (19 hours) and Istanbul (25 hours). From Adana change at Osmaniye for the bus from Hatay through Gaziantep, Şanliurfa, Diyarbakır and Batman.
Frequent dolmuşes run to town from Tatvan (100 km, 2 hrs) via the south lake shore, Highway D300. There are no direct services around the north shore. Dolmuses also run every few hours from Doğubayazıt (185 km, 4 hrs).
The border crossing to Iran, 100 km away at Kapıköy / Razi, is open for light vehicles, but no public transport crosses here: instead go to Doğubayazıt to travel via Bazargan.
Bus lines include Metroturizm, Van Yolu and Kamil Koç, now part of Flixbus.
1 Van Otogarı is at the highway junction 3 km northwest of town. Your inter-city ticket should be valid for the shuttle buses to town, check when booking.
By train
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Van is the western terminus of trains from Iran, which resumed in 2025. They leave Tehran W & Su at 12:30 for Tabriz at 01:30, then four hours of border procedures at Razi / Kapıköy, to arrive at Van ferry pier at 11:00. Continue to Tatvan for next day's train for Kayseri and Ankara.
The eastbound connection leaves Ankara Tu & Su at 11:20, reaching Tatvan by 14:00 next day. You then have six hours to cross or circumnavigate the lake and join the train leaving Van at 20:00. This arrives in Tabriz 06:15 next morning and Tehran at 18:30. For times and tickets see TCDD, but you can't buy tickets from Iran this way.
2 Van Garı 
is 1 km north of the bus station, so it's 4 km from city centre. Buses and taxis will get you there. This is the main station, the ferry pier is not shown as a separate station.
By plane
[edit]3 Van Ferit Melen Airport (VAN IATA) is just 5 km from the centre, in the southwestern suburbs. It has daily flights from Istanbul (IST and SAW), Ankara, Adana and Izmir.
Van airport is closed until 6 Dec 2025 for renovations. Fly instead to Muş (MSR) or Ağrı (AJI).
Taxis wait outside Arrivals, but you can also walk to the main road where dolmuşes take you to the city much cheaper. A city bus serves the security entrance to the airport, past the taxis and towards the main road.
From city centre, dolmuşes marked Hava Alanı leave from near Hotel Akdamar (Kazım Karabekir Cd), and take 15 minutes.
By boat
[edit]Ferries across the lake from Tatvan sail infrequently and irregularly and take 4 hours.
Get around
[edit]Dolmuşes and taxis take you anywhere beyond walking distance. For the castle and museum take a dolmuş signed "Kale", which means castle but also refers to the sprawling suburb north of it. Get out at the castle fence before it dives into the back streets, and walk the last 1 km west to the entrance.
A dolmuş ride costs 20 TL in 2025, pay the driver as you get in. They seldom accept bank cards.
See
[edit]- 1 Ulu Cami or Great Mosque was built in 1993 in retro Ottoman style. It's on Ordu Cd and open 24 hours.
- 2 Van Castle, Sümbül Sk (Dolmuş to Kale). Daily 08:00-17:00. The fortress stands on a 100 m-high bluff near the lake shore, with great vistas over the town and lake. From the entrance a broad track zig-zags up through barbicans to the summit. Locals often take a short-cut, and dodge the entrance fee, by slipping through the fence near the dolmus drop-off, and following a rough path up the north side of the bluff. This isn’t recommended for visitors. Adult 100 TL.
- Archaeology and Ethnography Museum, Kale 2nd Sk (Opposite castle entrance), ☏ +90 432 216 1139, [email protected]. Tu-Su 08:00-18:30. Extensive modern museum with good signage in English, though dimly lit. It majors on the Urartians. Adult 100 TL.
- Tuşpa, the 9th century Urartian capital, was the original site of Van between castle and lake, and diving archaeologists have found extensive ruins now submerged. Nothing there now but a parkland and couple of ruined mosques. Don't confuse it with the metropolitan municipality of Tuşba, which governs the northern half of the modern city.
- 3 Lake Van Monster (Van Gölü Canavarı) is surprisingly cheery for a beast that lives in an eye-stinging hypersaline and fish-free lake. His legend is boosted by implausible "sightings" from time to time. This statue was installed in the park in 2025. An earlier one stood in the western village of Gevaş then disappeared, and no-one thought to follow the marks left by its slithery tail, which could have confirmed whether the lake was its home.
- 4 Meher Kapı means "illuminating gate" but is a carved niche on a cliff face northeast of town, a 9th century shrine. You can climb up for a closer look but there's a replica in the museum, without the discarded trash.
West
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- 5 Akdamar Island (Dolmuş to Gevaş then ferry). Daily 08:00-17:00. The church of Surp Khach or Holy Cross is the only remnant of a 10th century Armenian palace and monastery complex on Akdamar. It has faded frescoes within and impressive rock-cut reliefs on the exterior. A liturgy is held annually in early Sep before the Feast of the Cross. Foreigners €12.
- 6 Kuş Island 3 km northwest of Akdamar is a smaller islet with the crumbling ruin of Surp Asdvadzadzin Church, the last remnant of Arter Monastery. No ferries or boat trips visit, but it's within kayaking distance of the shore highway.
- 7 Karmravank meaning "red monastery" is the ruin of another 10th century monastery church. Follow the paved lakeside road through Göründü, then 2 km further an unmarked dirt track forks inland: hike northwest another 2 km.
- 8 Saint Thomas Monastery is maybe 12th century. It's tumbledown and vandalised, yet atmospheric and with views over the lake. Take the paved road through Altınsaç, then the hair-pinning dirt track forks 1 km further.
- See Tatvan for Mount Nemrut and the Ahlat tombs on the western shore of the lake.
North
[edit]- 9 Ktuts Monastery, Çarpanak Island. Abandoned but substantial Armenian monastery, built in the 15th century and rebuilt in 1703 after an earthquake. The causeway has been submerged by rising water levels in the lake, so you take a summer boat trip from Van.
- 10 Lim Monastery was built in fits and starts from the 9th century, but now only a few walls stand. It's on Adır Island only 1 km from shore, but too far from Van for boat trips.
- 11 Devil's Bridge is a 19th century single-arch bridge over a gorge, signed Şeytan Köprüsü 2 km north of Muradiye along D975. It still carries traffic and the roadway is ugly, but scramble down into the gorge for a better view.
- Muradiye Waterfalls are 2 km north of Devil's Bridge, signed as Muradiye Şelalesi off D975. A 40-m wide waterfall plunges 20 m down a basalt cliff. In harsh winters it freezes into a dripstone-like curtain of ice. Parking 200 TL.
- 12 Mount Tendürek lava field is a volcanic badlands, easiest seen from D975 a few km north of the village of Soğuksu. Tendürek is an active "shield" volcano: the lava is viscous so its layers heap up and up over a great swathe of land. In 1855 it belched gas and ash, the last eruption in Turkey, but the last lava flow was 2500 years ago, and signs are that it's subsiding into dormancy.
Southeast
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- 13 Varagavank was an Armenian monastery founded in the 11th century, also known as Yedi Kilise, seven churches. It was torched during the Armenian Genocide in 1915, and vandalised from the 1960s, with its stones pilfered. It's now hemmed in by the village of Bakraçlı, 10 km east of Van. You might find someone with a key to let you in.
- 14 Çavuştepe. 24 hours. The 8th century BC acropolis of Sardurihinilli, strung along a ridge above Highway D975, with elaborate Urartian cuneiform inscriptions. No signage. Free.
- 15 Hoşap, Güzelsu. Temporarily closed. An impressive 1643-built castle on an outcrop. A pretty, 1671-built stone bridge with three humps spans the river below. Free.
- 16 Saint Bartholomew Monastery, Albayrak. 24 hours. Ruins of a 13th century Armenian monastery, supposedly on the site of the martyrdom of Bartholomew the Apostle. (Unlucky fellow, he was also martyred in Baku.) The glyphs over its portal are especially attractive. Free.
- 17 Vanadokya Fairy Chimneys are a group of hoodoos or around the village of Yavuzlar. The soft volcanic rocks have been eroded into formations similar to Cappadocia far to the west: Vanadokya means "Van's Cappadocia".
Do
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- Beaches are found south of Edremit (sandy) and around Mollakasım north of Cape Çarpanak (pebble). The water is hypersaline so swimming is no fun.
- Birdwatching: Lake Erçek 30 km east along D300 towards Kapıköy is an important site for migrating waterbirds.
- Basketball and soccer are played at amateur level. On no account try to watch a match at FC Van: they play soccer in the top tier but are based in Charentsavan in Armenia.
Buy
[edit]Van Shopping Center (AVM) is central, corner of Cumhuriyet Cd and Erek Dağı Cd, open daily 10:00-22:00. It has shops, restaurants, cafes and a cinema.
Lots of smaller supermarkets in city centre.
Eat
[edit]Kahvaltı salonu are "breakfast halls", typically open early to 18:00: dozens in city centre. You're served a huge amount of food and unlimited tea.
Drink
[edit]A surprising number of pubs cluster in the alleys between Kazım Karabekir Blv and Cumhuriyet Cd.
Sleep
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- 1 Grand Hotel, İrfan Baştuğ Cd 4, ☏ +90 432 214 8888. Central and mostly clean, sometimes noisy. B&B double 3000 TL.
- Otel Şehrivan, Ercişli Emrah 2nd Sk, off Sihke Cd (100 m west of Grand Hotel), ☏ +90 432 215 6171. Basic and grubby. B&B double 4000 TL.
- Karaca Hotel is clean and friendly. It's at Zübeyde Hanım Cd 69.
- 2 Elite World, Kazım Karabekir Blv 67, ☏ +90 432 484 1111. Smart modern place. See below for their other branch near the airport. B&B double 3000 TL.
- Hotel Edens is by the airport at Yayla 4th Sk off İpek Yolu Cd.
- 3 Double Tree by Hilton, İpek Yolu Cd km 8, ☏ +90 432 227 0227. Pleasant chain hotel near airport. B&B double 3000 TL.
- Elite World Go is 200 m east of Ramada on Sahil Cd.
- 4 Ramada by Wyndham, Sahil Cd 52, Edremit, ☏ +90 432 502 2000. Clean efficient chain hotel on lakeside. B&B double 2500 TL.
- 5 Dedeman Van Resort, Sahil Cd 94, Edremit, ☏ +90 432 504 0000. Comfy chain hotel on lakeside. B&B double 2500 TL.
Connect
[edit]Van has 4G from all Turkish carriers, but you're unlikely to get a signal on the approach highways. As of Nov 2025, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.
Go next
[edit]- Tatvan west of the lake is where you pick up the train to Ankara. Mount Nemrut looms over it, but there are no giant heads there - they're on the other Mountain Nemrut above Kâhta away to the west.
- Doğubayazıt 185 km north is the main border gate to Iran. (Be sure to have your visa in advance, there are no visa facilities in this area.) The town itself has İshak Pasha Palace, and is near Mount Ararat.
| Routes through Van |
| Malatya ← Tatvan ← | W  E
|
→  Kapıköy/Razi → Becomes  → Khoy 
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Merges with  ← Doğubayazıt ←
|
N  S
|
→ Hakkari → Ends at 
|