Voskopoja (or Moscopole) is a village in southeastern Albania, located in Korçë County. Once a prominent urban center in the 18th century, it was a hub of Aromanian, Greek, and Albanian culture, featuring a printing press and numerous churches. Today, it stands as a quiet rural community with significant historical heritage.
Understand
[edit]Voskopoja is a place for history enthusiasts and nature lovers alike. Once a major urban center in the 18th century, it was a hub of commerce and culture for the Aromanian, Greek, and Albanian communities. The village's golden age earned it the nickname "New Athens" for its vibrant intellectual life, which included a printing press and an academy. This history is etched into the stunning frescoes and architecture of its surviving churches.
Today, Voskopoja offers a peaceful, mountainous escape from modern life. The atmosphere is serene and the pace is slow. The village is situated at an altitude of 1,160 meters, giving it a cool, comfortable summer and a long, snowy winter. Its location makes it ideal for hiking in the warmer months and a potential destination for winter sports.
The village's decline began with a series of raids in the late 18th century. Many inhabitants fled, with some settling in nearby Korçë, about 21 km away, creating a strong historical link between the two areas.
The administrative unit of Voskopoja includes the main village and smaller hamlets like Shipska, Krushova, and Lavdari. While Voskopoja village itself is the main point of interest with its historic churches and guesthouses, the other hamlets offer additional sites and trails for those looking to explore the wider rural landscape.
Get in
[edit]Voskopoja is most easily reached from the city of Korçë.
- By car: The best way to get here is by car. The drive from Korçë is about 21 km on a good paved road, taking 30-40 minutes.
- By bus: Take a bus from Tirana to Korçë. From there, you can hire a taxi or find a local minibus (furgon) to Voskopoja. Minibus schedules are infrequent and irregular, so check with locals for times.
- By foot or bicycle: The route from Korçë is an uphill climb and not marked for walking or biking, though it is possible for the adventurous with a GPS.
See
[edit]The main attractions in Voskopoja are its historical churches, many of which are adorned with beautiful post-Byzantine frescoes.
- Church of Saint Nicholas (Kisha e Shën Kollit) The largest and most famous church in Voskopoja, located on the main road. The exterior is modest, but the interior is a masterpiece of art, entirely covered in frescoes painted by the renowned 18th-century Albanian painter David Selenica and his apprentices.
- Church of Saint Athanasius (Kisha e Shën Thanasit) Situated on a hill with a magnificent view of the village, this church is known for its well-preserved frescoes. The journey to the church is a short uphill walk and offers a great photo opportunity.
- Church of the Dormition of the Theotokos (Kisha e Fjetjes së Hyjlindëses) One of the oldest churches, this site is a serene place with a captivating atmosphere. Its simple stone exterior hides a trove of historical art inside, reflecting the village's deep religious and artistic heritage.
- Monastery of Saint John the Baptist (Manastiri i Shën Prodromit) Located just outside the main village, this monastery is a significant historical and religious site. The complex is partially restored, and its peaceful setting in the surrounding nature is a major draw.
- Old Town Hall Square (Sheshi i Bashkisë së Vjetër) While not a single building, the main square is the heart of the village. It's a great place to sit, enjoy a coffee, and feel the local pulse. The square is surrounded by traditional stone houses and small guesthouses.
Itineraries
[edit]A Walk Through History Start your day at the main square (Old Town Hall Square). From there, take a short walk to the Church of Saint Nicholas to admire its famous frescoes. Then, follow the signposts or a local's directions for an uphill walk to the Church of Saint Athanasius, which offers panoramic views of the entire area. Afterwards, head to the nearby Church of the Dormition of the Theotokos to complete your tour of the central churches. For the afternoon, consider a short drive or a longer walk to the Monastery of Saint John the Baptist located just outside the village to explore its tranquil grounds. The entire route can be completed at a leisurely pace in one day.
Nature and Culture Trip Combine the historical tour with some light hiking. After visiting the central churches, take one of the walking trails that lead to the surrounding hills and nearby hamlets like Shipska. These trails offer a chance to see the rural landscape and discover other smaller, less-frequented churches and historical sites in a peaceful, natural setting.
Do
[edit]- Hiking and Trekking Voskopoja is an excellent base for hiking, with numerous trails winding through the surrounding hills and forests. The trails are not always well-marked, so it's a good idea to use a GPS or hire a local guide, especially for longer treks. A popular activity is hiking to the nearby hamlets like Shipska to see other historic churches and enjoy the natural scenery.
- Horseback Riding Several local guesthouses offer horseback riding tours through the pastoral landscapes and forests surrounding the village. This is a unique and fun way to experience the area's natural beauty.
- Skiing In winter, when the village is covered in snow, some guesthouses offer natural ski slopes. While not a developed resort, it provides an adventurous experience for those who enjoy cross-country or off-piste skiing.
Buy
[edit]Voskopoja is a small village with a limited number of shops. There are no major commercial districts, but you can find small local stores that sell basic goods. The best things to buy are locally-produced products and artisanal goods.
- Local crafts and produce: Look for homemade jams, honey, and local cheeses. You can also find traditional hand-knitted woolen goods and wood carvings at some of the guesthouses or small shops.
- Souvenirs: The village offers some small souvenirs, often related to the history of its churches, such as replicas of icons or postcards.
It is advisable to carry cash (Albanian Lek) as credit cards are not widely accepted. There are no ATMs in Voskopoja, so be sure to withdraw cash in Korçë before you arrive.
Eat
[edit]Voskopoja is known for its traditional Albanian mountain cuisine, with an emphasis on fresh, locally-sourced ingredients. Many of the restaurants and guesthouses serve classic dishes, and the atmosphere is typically cozy and rustic.
- Lakrori në Saç: This is a must-try local specialty. It's a type of traditional pie baked under a metal dome covered with embers, giving it a unique smoky flavor. It can be filled with a variety of ingredients, most commonly leeks, cheese, or meat.
- Grilled Lamb: Given the pastoral nature of the area, grilled lamb is a popular dish. It's often slow-roasted on a skewer, resulting in tender and flavorful meat.
Most restaurants are found within the guesthouses or as standalone family-run establishments. You can usually find a place to eat by walking along the main street.
- Toka Hotel Restaurant (Voskopoja) This restaurant is a popular choice, known for its traditional Albanian dishes and cozy atmosphere. It's a great place to try local cuisine, including the famous lakror.
Drink
[edit]Voskopoja is not a nightlife destination. The village is quiet after dark, and the "drink" scene is centered around relaxing in a guesthouse or restaurant with a good meal and a glass of local wine or raki.
- Local Rakia: This traditional fruit brandy is a staple in the region. Many guesthouses produce their own, and it's a great way to warm up on a cold night.
Sleep
[edit]Accommodation in Voskopoja consists primarily of family-run guesthouses and a few small hotels. Booking in advance is recommended, especially during the summer and winter holidays, as the number of available rooms is limited. The guesthouses often offer a full package, including meals.
- Vila Nikol (Voskopoja) A highly-rated guesthouse offering comfortable rooms, a garden, and a warm atmosphere. It's a great base for exploring the village and surrounding nature.
- Pashuta Guesthouse (Voskopoja) This guesthouse provides a traditional experience with a restaurant serving local cuisine. Guests often praise the friendly hosts and the beautiful mountain views.
- Hotel Restaurant Vila Ime Voskopojë (Voskopoja) This hotel features a restaurant and a terrace. It's known for its family-friendly atmosphere and its traditional Albanian and Greek food.
Connect
[edit]- Mobile Service: Cellular coverage in Voskopoja is generally good, with both Vodafone and One offering service. However, reception can be spotty in some of the more remote, hilly areas.
- Internet: Most guesthouses and hotels offer free Wi-Fi for their guests. Public Wi-Fi is not widely available.
Stay safe
[edit]Voskopoja is a very safe place with a low crime rate. The main hazards are related to the natural environment.
- Roads: Be cautious when driving, especially in winter when the roads can be slippery due to snow and ice.
- Hiking: If you're hiking, stick to established trails, carry plenty of water, and inform someone of your plans.
- Weather: Be prepared for sudden changes in mountain weather, even in the summer. Pack layers and rain gear.
Go next
[edit]- Korçë: The closest major city, Korçë is a cultural hub with a vibrant old bazaar, a beautiful Orthodox cathedral, and numerous museums. It makes for a great day trip.
- Lake Ohrid: A short drive away, the Albanian side of this UNESCO World Heritage site offers serene landscapes, historic towns like Pogradec, and stunning views.
- Përmet: Known for its thermal waters, this town in southern Albania is famous for its natural beauty, canyons, and traditional food.