The Annapurna Circuit is a trekking route in the Annapurna mountains of the Himalayas in Nepal. The Annapurna Circuit is considered one of the best treks in the world, though road construction is threatening its reputation and its future as a classic trek. Yet no one disputes that the scenery is outstanding: 17 to 21 days long, this trek takes you through distinct regional scenery of rivers, flora, fauna and above all, mountains.
Understand
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Traditionally hiked as a counter-clockwise loop from Besisahar to Nayapul, the Annapurna Circuit peaks at the formidable Thorong La Pass (5,416m). While some intrepid trekkers attempt the route clockwise, it is a perilous choice; the ascent from West to East requires a grueling 1.5 km vertical climb over unstable gullies with no marked trails or teahouses. Most find even the descent of this section exhausting, making the gradual acclimatization of the counter-clockwise route the standard preference.
The trek’s greatest appeal is its radical ecological diversity. The trail transforms from the tropical forests of Besisahar and the lush valleys of Lamjung into the high-altitude glacial moraines of Manang. After crossing the pass, the landscape shifts again into the arid, windswept rain shadow of Lower Mustang—a region often cited by locals as the circuit’s most beautiful.
This transition is mirrored by a cultural shift across four regions: Lamjung, Manang, Mustang, and Myagdi. The lower Hindu valleys give way to the Tibetan Buddhist highlands. In Manang, the Gurung people maintain a unique heritage, while Mustang remains a rare sanctuary for the ancient Bonpo religion, still practiced in villages like Thini and Lupra. Spiritual landmarks punctuate the journey, from the centuries-old monastery in Braga to the sacred shrines of Muktinath, a holy site for both faiths.
The scenery is dominated by giants. The route circumnavigates Manaslu, Annapurna I, and Dhaulagiri—all exceeding 8,000 meters—and plunges through the Kali Gandaki, the world’s deepest gorge. The journey often culminates at Poon Hill, offering iconic panoramas of the Annapurna massif and the distinct "Fishtail" peak of Machapuchare.
Prepare
[edit]Before departing each morning, consult your guesthouse host about trail conditions. Expanding road construction has disrupted several sections, making some paths dangerous, so stick to the primary red-and-white blazed trails whenever possible. Avoid walking on the motorable roads, as they are often choked with heavy dust from passing vehicles. For a steeper and more adventurous alternative, follow the blue-and-white secondary trails.
As of 2024, the government has reinforced the mandate that all foreign trekkers must be accompanied by a licensed guide or porter-guide through a registered agency. While some checkpoints may appear lax, trekking without a guide now risks immediate removal from the route or heavy fines. Since this is a "teahouse trek," you do not need to carry food or camping gear, but hiring local support remains the best way to navigate safely while contributing to the local economy.
Cash is essential because there are no ATMs after Manang until you reach Muktinath and Jomsom. While you can exchange US dollars or traveler's checks in Chame or Jomsom, it is safest to carry a sufficient supply of Nepalese Rupees for the entire trek. Prices generally rise with the altitude, and you should expect a daily budget of approximately Rs 1,500 to Rs 2,000 for modest spending, or up to Rs 4,000 at higher points.
Pricing can be unpredictable; for example, the stretch between Tal and Chame is often more expensive than the more remote path to Manang. Since lodge prices are typically standardized within each village, there is no need to hunt for bargains. Instead, consider walking toward the far end of a village, as the most pleasant lodges are often located on the way out of town. For a high-end experience including beer and ample meals, a total budget of Rs 50,000 to Rs 60,000 per person is sufficient for the journey from Besisahar to Jomsom.
Eat
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Because this is a "teahouse trek," you do not need to carry food or a camping stove. There are villages with restaurants and shops along the entire route, providing ready meals and snacks. It is customary, and often expected, that you eat both dinner and breakfast at the lodge where you spend the night, as these businesses rely on meal sales rather than room rates to remain viable.
Drink
[edit]While not explicitly detailed in the provided notes, the presence of established lodges and shops means that bottled water and hot drinks are available throughout the route. To reduce plastic waste, many trekkers use local water sources treated with purification tablets or UV filters. Most lodges have running water, though it is primarily used for washing.
Sleep
[edit]Accommodation is readily available in villages along the route, so there is no need to carry a tent or camp wild. Rooms are generally inexpensive, ranging from Rs 100 to Rs 500, though prices can rise to Rs 800 at higher elevations near the Pass. Most rooms feature two or three single beds, while a few offer a single double bed.
While bed linens and blankets are provided, they are often just aired out rather than washed, particularly at higher altitudes. If cleanliness is a concern, you may wish to bring a sleeping bag or liner, but a sleeping bag is not strictly necessary for warmth as you can always request extra blankets. Even in winter, an emergency blanket is a lighter alternative for those worried about the cold.
Facilities vary greatly; you may encounter modern private flush toilets or shared outdoor squat toilets. All lodges have running water, but hot water depends on the system. Solar showers provide lukewarm water on sunny days, while gas showers offer reliable heat. In colder months, you may need to request a "bucket shower" or check if the lodge has water pipes heated by the dining room fire. Electricity is generally available for light, though it is wise to confirm if there are outlets for charging devices in your room.
Climate
[edit]The itinerary is generally accessible for much of the year, though you should expect significantly colder temperatures at higher elevations. While the lodges provide shelter and blankets, the environment remains rugged, particularly in winter. No unusual equipment is required beyond standard trekking gear, though an emergency blanket and a flexible attitude toward varying bathroom standards and water temperatures are recommended.
Get in
[edit]The traditional starting point for the Annapurna Circuit is Besisahar. This town is accessible from Kathmandu (KTM IATA) by a tourist bus, which is a six to eight-hour journey departing daily from Kathmandu's new bus station, or by a private jeep or car, which is a faster but more expensive option.
To get to If you arrive late from Kathmandu, it is worth stopping in Khudi after about 7 km and 2 hr from Besisahar for a cheaper, quieter first night and a cooler start.
Due to road extensions in the area, many trekkers now choose to take a jeep from Besisahar further into the valley. This allows them to start their trek from villages such as Syange, Jagat, or Chame, which can save several days of walking.
Walk
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17 km
6 hr
A hot, jungly opener through rice terraces, waterfalls, and suspension bridges before a stiff climb to finish. Despite road construction having changed the lower valley, the walk remains worthwhile — the terraced middle hills are gentle and rewarding in a way the upper circuit never repeats.
The road from 1 Besisahar (760 m) to Bhulbhule is dusty and busy, and some trekkers bus or jeep ahead to save their legs. From Besisahar the trail heads north into the Marsyangdi valley, reaching Bhulbhule (840 m) after 2 km, where there is an ACAP checkpoint and a waterfall just beyond. Views of Manaslu (8,156 m) open up across the rice terraces toward Ngadi (890 m), 4 km further; cross the long suspension bridge over the Ngadi Khola here, where the road and trail diverge and the climbing begins.
The final 4 km to 2 Bahundanda (1,310 m) is a sustained 350 m ascent through terraced farmland. The name means "Brahmin Hill" — the village sits high on a ridge as the most northerly Brahmin settlement in the valley, with sweeping views back down the Marsyangdi. There is an ACAP and TIMS checkpoint here.
12 km 4 hr
The trail drops steeply from Bahundanda through green rice terraces before levelling out along the river. Ghermu (1,130 m), 5 km along, sits in a pleasant open bowl and is a popular overnight alternative to pushing on — many prefer it to the gloomier atmosphere of Jagat. From Ghermu the valley narrows into a gorge, with waterfalls tumbling down the cliffs and the Marsyangdi audible everywhere. 3 Jagat (1,300 m), 3 km further, is a tightly packed stone village with carved gateways and a permit checkpoint; it has a rougher reputation than Ghermu and some guides recommend skipping it for the night. The final 4 km to Chamche (1,385 m) follows the river through dense forest past cliffs and more waterfalls.
15 km 6.25 hr
A steep climb out of Chamche on steps and footpaths leads 5 km up to Tal (1,700 m), which announces itself dramatically as the narrow gorge suddenly opens into a wide, flat river terrace — the village's name means "lake" in Nepali, a nod to the ancient lake bed it sits on — the first village in Manang District, and the first real breathing room since Besisahar. A large waterfall drops at the northern end of the village. From Tal the gorge closes in again and the trail undulates through short, sharp climbs in and out of side gullies — much of it on proper trail rather than the road — passing Karte (1,870 m) to reach 4 Dharapani (1,900 m), where the Manaslu Circuit joins from the east and permits are checked. From Dharapani to Kagbeni you will be walking the Annapurna section of The Great Himalaya Trail. Continue 2 km through rhododendron forest to Bagarchhap (2,160 m), the first visibly Tibetan-style village on the route, with flat-roofed stone houses and a small monastery, then a further 2 km to Danaqyu (2,200 m).
12 km 4 hr
A steep climb on stone steps from Danaqyu rises through dense rhododendron and pine forest to Timang (2,710 m), rewarded with some of the finest views of the entire lower circuit — a sweeping panorama of Manaslu, Himalchuli, and the Annapurna range. The trail then descends through fir forest past characterful Thanchowk (2,570 m), where traditional stone houses with slate roofs line the path, before an easier stretch through Koto (2,600 m) and a short final climb into 5 Chame (2,710 m). Koto has an ACAP checkpoint and, for those who want a quieter night, makes a calm alternative to the bustle of Chame. Much of this stage uses proper trail rather than the main road. Chame is the administrative headquarters of Manang District — busier and better-served than anything since Besisahar, with shops, a bank, and hot springs by the river.
9 km 3.75 hr
The valley option trades views for easier gradients and more road underfoot. From Danaqyu it is 1.5 km to Latamarang (2,400 m), then 5.5 km through forest alongside the Marsyangdi to Koto (2,600 m), and a final 2 km into Chame. A sensible choice in bad weather or tired legs.
90 km
One of the most rewarding detours in the Annapurna region, and one of the least visited. Naar-Pho Valley was opened to foreigners in 2002 and sees a fraction of the traffic on the main circuit — the valley's restricted status has kept its two main villages, 6 Phugaon (Phu) and 7 Naar, at over 4,000 m, largely unchanged. Both are ancient Tibetan Buddhist settlements with stone lookout towers, monasteries, and a culture that has more in common with Tibet than with the Hindu foothills far below.
Entry is from Koto (just before Chame) and exit is via Kang La pass (5,320 m) to Ngawal on the main circuit. Because the normal route from Koto to Ngawal takes about 2 days, the detour adds roughly 7 days to the total trekking time; allow 9 days if spending two nights in each village, which is recommended for acclimatisation.
The valley is a restricted area: a Restricted Area Permit (RAP) is required in addition to the standard ACAP permit, trekkers must be in a group of at least two, and a licensed guide is compulsory. Permits must be arranged through a registered trekking agency in Kathmandu or Pokhara before setting out. Given the limited infrastructure, most groups opt for a camping trek with porters and a cook rather than relying on teahouses.
14.5 km 5 hr
A day of steadily opening views through pine forest, culminating in the first full panoramas of the high Manang valley. The trail follows the Marsyangdi 7 km to Bhratang (2,850 m), famous for its apple orchards and a large apple farm — the fresh juice is worth a stop. Past Bhratang the valley narrows dramatically, with the trail carved into the cliff face above the river before swinging around to reveal Paungda Danda: a vast, impossibly smooth concave rock wall rising over 1,500 m from the river, known locally as Swarga Dwar — "Gateway to Heaven" — and believed by the Gurung people to be the path spirits climb after death. A suspension bridge crosses to the south bank, and a steep climb through pine forest leads up to Dhukur Pokhari (3,240 m), where the trail splits.
The right-hand trail climbs 1.5 km to 8 Upper Pisang (3,310 m); the left follows the road down to Lower Pisang (3,200 m). Upper Pisang is the better choice for the night — a maze of narrow stone alleyways, old flat-roofed houses, and an active monastery whose morning and evening chants carry across the valley. The views of Annapurna II from the village are among the finest on the circuit. Those staying in Lower Pisang can take an acclimatisation walk up to the old village in the afternoon. Both villages connect by trail.
19.5 km 6.5 hr
The finest day on the eastern circuit, and the most important for acclimatisation. A stiff switchback climb of around 4.5 km gains 420 m to reach Ghyaru (3,730 m), perched high above the valley with sweeping views of Annapurna II, III, IV, and Gangapurna filling the skyline. The trail then traverses 5 km along the ridge to Ngawal (3,680 m), another traditional stone village with a large chorten at its entrance and more spectacular mountain panoramas. Both villages are among the most atmospheric on the circuit, and sleeping at this altitude before descending to Manang is one of the better ways to cut the need for an extra rest day there.
From Ngawal the trail drops 2 km to Humde (3,330 m), where a small airstrip marks the valley floor, then continues 6 km past the walled fields and flat-roofed houses of Bhraga (3,450 m). The 500-year-old Bhraga Gompa clings to the rock face above the village — the most important monastery in the Manang district, housing clay statues, ancient thangka paintings, and butter lamps tended by resident monks. It is worth the short climb up. A final 2 km brings you into 9 Manang (3,540 m).
19 km 4.5 hr
The valley route follows the road more closely than the main trail, with steadier gradients throughout. The same waypoints apply — 7 km to Bhratang (2,850 m) and its apple orchards, then 6 km to Dhukur Pokhari (3,240 m) where the trail splits — but from here the road descends directly to 10 Lower Pisang (3,200 m) rather than climbing to the upper village. Fewer panoramas than the high route, but a shorter day and easier underfoot. A trail connects Lower and Upper Pisang for those who want to take the acclimatisation walk up in the afternoon.
15 km 4.25 hr
The lower valley option stays close to the road with minimal elevation change. From Lower Pisang it is 7 km to Humde (3,330 m), where a small airstrip sits on the valley floor, then 6 km to Bhraga (3,450 m) — worth a stop for its 500-year-old gompa — and a final 2 km into 11 Manang (3,540 m). Those taking this route miss the ridge villages and their panoramas, so a half-day walk up to Ghyaru or Ngawal from Manang is a reasonable way to compensate for the lost altitude exposure.
Manang is the main hub before the pass — clean, well-supplied, and lively by high-altitude standards, with bakeries, gear shops, and nightly talks on altitude sickness at the Himalayan Rescue Association office. A map of local walks is posted beside the central stupa. The classic acclimatisation hike is Ice Lake (4,620 m), a full-day outing with big views. An excellent side trip to Tilicho Lake (4,919 m) — one of the highest lakes in the world — can also be done from Manang, rejoining the main trail at Yak Kharka.
15 km 6.5 hr
The trail leaves Manang's trees behind quickly, ascending through scrubland of juniper and alpine grass past the small villages of Tengi and Gunsang before reaching Yak Kharka (4,050 m) after 9 km — the name means "yak pastures," and herds of yak and blue sheep are a common sight on the surrounding slopes. A short 1 km further brings you to 12 Ledar (4,200 m), after which the trail crosses a suspension bridge and enters more exposed terrain. The 5 km from Ledar to 13 Thorung Phedi (4,450 m) includes a known landslide zone — move steadily through it and give pack animals plenty of room on the narrow traverses.
Thorung Phedi is the last stop before the pass, with two main teahouses and a social atmosphere driven by trekkers psyching up for the crossing. Some continue 400 m higher to High Camp (4,900 m) for a shorter summit day; most stay at Phedi. Either way, an early start the next morning is essential to beat the winds that build across the pass by midday.
15 km 6.25 hr
Leave before dawn — by 4–5 am — to cross Thorung La (5,416 m) before the winds build. The 5 km climb is steep and exposed; the summit is marked by prayer flags and usually a tea stall, with views across the Annapurna range and out over the Mustang plateau. The descent is longer and harder on the knees than expected — 10 km of loose scree dropping 1,600 m, with Charabu (4,230 m) offering a handful of basic lodges roughly halfway down for those who need to split the day.
14 Muktinath (3,800 m) is a major pilgrimage site sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists, with a temple complex featuring 108 water spouts and a continuously burning natural flame. Full services; many take a rest day. South from here, use foot trails over the vehicle road wherever possible. Mountain biking to Tatopani is a popular option, with rentals available locally — the descent from 4,000 m to 1,200 m over 2–3 days is one of the great Himalayan downhill rides.
19 km 5.25 hr
The high trail descends through Jharkot (3,540 m) after 3 km — an ancient, almost medieval Tibetan village of mud-brick houses and a 15th-century monastery — then drops steeply to Kagbeni (2,800 m) after 6 km, a maze of narrow alleys at the confluence of the Jhong Khola and the Kali Gandaki, and the gateway to Upper Mustang. From Kagbeni the trail follows the wide, stone-strewn Kali Gandaki valley floor south through Eklebhatti (2,740 m) and on to 15 Jomsom (2,720 m). Leave early — the valley's notorious afternoon headwinds typically build by midday and the final stretch to Jomsom is fully exposed. Those wanting to break the day can overnight in Jharkot or Jhong. Some trekkers take motor transport from Muktinath; jeeps and trucks run to Jomsom regularly.
19 km 6.5 hr
The direct valley descent follows road more than trail, passing through Jharkot (3,550 m) after 1 km and Khinga (3,355 m) after 3 km before dropping to Kagbeni (2,800 m) after 6 km. Kagbeni is a tight medieval village of hidden alleys and flat-roofed stone houses at the mouth of Upper Mustang — many stay a couple of nights. From here the trail joins the Kali Gandaki valley floor south through Eklebhatti (2,740 m) to 16 Jomsom (2,720 m). The stretch between Kagbeni and Jomsom is exposed, dusty, and heavily trafficked in the afternoons; leave early or take a jeep to avoid the worst of the wind. Jomsom is more spread out than it looks — most guesthouses cluster near the airport at the far end, about 15 minutes through town.
23 km 7 hr
A long descent through the Kali Gandaki gorge — one of the deepest in the world, carved between Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) and Annapurna I (8,091 m) — on a road-and-trail mix with big mountain views throughout. Leave early to get the worst of the dust and traffic behind you before the afternoon winds build. The first stop is 17 Marpha (2,670 m) after 6 km, the standout village of this section: immaculate whitewashed stone walls, cobblestone streets with a concealed drainage channel running beneath them, flat roofs stacked with firewood, and apple orchards producing the brandy and dried fruit sold in every shop. Worth a slow wander and a glass of the local cider. Continue 6 km to Tukuche (2,590 m), a former Thakali trading hub with large old merchant houses and carved wooden shutters, then through Kobang (2,640 m), Larjung (2,550 m), and Kokhethanti (2,525 m) to 18 Kalopani (2,535 m) — 11 km in all. At Kalopani the rain shadow ends, conifer forest appears, and on a clear day both Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I are visible simultaneously from the village.
From Jomsom a flight to Pokhara takes about 20 minutes; buses run but involve multiple changes and typically arrive after dark.
20 km 7.75 hr
A long descent into the deepest part of the Kali Gandaki gorge, with the vegetation thickening and the air warming noticeably as altitude drops. The trail passes through Ghasa (2,010 m) after 7 km — a good birdwatching spot, with the gorge narrowing sharply here — then continues to Kopochepani (1,480 m) after 4 km. The highlight of the descent is the thundering Rupse Chhahara waterfall (1,500 m), roughly at the deepest point of the gorge between Annapurna and Dhaulagiri, 2 km further. The trail then rolls through Dana (1,400 m) before a final 4 km to 19 Tatopani (1,200 m).
The road has encroached heavily on the old footpath between Ghasa and Tatopani; stick to the east bank of the river where the NATT trail is marked, as this avoids much of the traffic and construction. Tatopani — "hot water" — takes its name from the springs beside the river below the village, which make a very welcome finish after a day of hard descent.
11 km 4.5 hr
Most trekkers wake before dawn to climb from 20 Ghorepani (2,870 m) to Poon Hill (3,210 m) for sunrise over the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges before breakfast and descent. The hill opposite, toward Chomrong, offers similar panoramas with a fraction of the crowd. The descent itself is relentless stone stairs: 2 km to Ulleri (2,010 m), a further 2 km to Tikhedhunga (1,500 m), then an easier riverside walk of 6 km to 21 Birethanti (1,025 m) and a final 1 km to Nayapul (1,070 m), where transport to Pokhara awaits. Knees will know about it. From Ghorepani it is also possible to continue east via the ridge toward Chomrong, joining the Annapurna Base Camp trek after roughly two days. This area is generally closed July to mid-September during the core monsoon.
20 km 16 hr
1 Tilicho Lake at 4,920 m is one of the highest lakes in the world, and a worthy 2–3 day detour from Manang. Some maps show a path along the south side of the valley from Manang toward Khangsar — ignore it; that route is abandoned and destroyed by landslides. Stick to the northern side.
From Khangsar, two paths leave the village. The lower one is landslide-prone with no teahouses; take the upper path. About 1 km past Shree Kharka the path splits again. The upward branch involves excessive climbing and descending and is marked dangerous — take the downward branch. Note that this recommended downward path is sometimes confusingly called the "lower path" by locals, distinct from the genuinely lower abandoned route.
The upper path from Khangsar reaches a monastery after roughly 2 km, then Shree Kharka (4,050 m) after another 1 km, where two teahouses offer lunch or an overnight stop. A third teahouse sits about 1 km beyond. Tilicho Base Camp (4,100 m) is 6 km from Shree Kharka.
The lake is 5 km above base camp — a steep, relentless climb and the highest point you will have reached on the trek. Blue sheep and yaks are common; snow leopards are present but rarely seen. Weather deteriorates quickly: aim to be at the lake before mid-morning, as wind builds by 11 am and cloud can form as early as 8 am. Dress warmly. A teahouse at the lake provides food and tea but no accommodation; staff walk up daily from base camp, so confirm it is open before heading up.
The descent to base camp is about 5 km. From there you can continue 6 km back to Shree Kharka the same day. The following day, rather than retracing to Manang, a signposted path just past Shree Kharka leads directly to Yak Kharka via Old Khangsar — approximately 10 km — allowing you to rejoin the main circuit without backtracking.
Stay safe
[edit]Your safety on the Annapurna Circuit hinges on respecting the altitude. Acclimatize by ascending gradually, staying well-hydrated, and never ignoring the early signs of Acute Mountain Sickness like headaches or nausea; if symptoms worsen, you must descend. Equally important is preparing for the unpredictable mountain weather, so pack essential layers including waterproof and windproof gear, even if the forecast seems clear. Finally, maintain your health by drinking only purified water and carrying a basic first-aid kit. Responsible trekking is key to safely experiencing the majesty of the Himalayas.
Go next
[edit]Many trekkers choose to finish their trek in Muktinath or Jomsom, either taking a very bumpy jeep or bus ride from Muktinath to Pokhara, or a small plane from Jomsom. Another option is to ride down by mountain bike from Muktinath or Jomsom, turning those bumpy roads into a positive thing for tourism. If you still have the energy for more trekking, Pokhara is the gateway to the Mardi Himal trek, a short ridge route to viewpoints below Machhapuchhre.
At the western end of the trek by Nayapul, several options are available, including adding on a trek to Poon Hill and/or the Annapurna Sanctuary trek.
You can access the Everest Base Camp trek in Sagarmatha National Park, reached by a short flight to Lukla, or venture to the Numbur Cheese Circuit in Ramechhap District, a quieter loop around Numbur Himal with village homestays, yak pastures, and expansive valley views.