The Annapurna Circuit is a trekking route in the Annapurna mountains of the Himalayas in Nepal. The Annapurna Circuit is considered one of the best treks in the world, though road construction is threatening its reputation and its future as a classic trek. Yet no one disputes that the scenery is outstanding: 17 to 21 days long, this trek takes you through distinct regional scenery of rivers, flora, fauna and above all, mountains.
Understand
[edit]
Traditionally hiked as a counter-clockwise loop from Besisahar to Nayapul, the Annapurna Circuit peaks at the formidable Thorong La Pass (5,416m). While some intrepid trekkers attempt the route clockwise, it is a perilous choice; the ascent from West to East requires a grueling 1.5 km vertical climb over unstable gullies with no marked trails or teahouses. Most find even the descent of this section exhausting, making the gradual acclimatization of the counter-clockwise route the standard preference.
The trek’s greatest appeal is its radical ecological diversity. The trail transforms from the tropical forests of Besisahar and the lush valleys of Lamjung into the high-altitude glacial moraines of Manang. After crossing the pass, the landscape shifts again into the arid, windswept rain shadow of Lower Mustang—a region often cited by locals as the circuit’s most beautiful.
This transition is mirrored by a cultural shift across four regions: Lamjung, Manang, Mustang, and Myagdi. The lower Hindu valleys give way to the Tibetan Buddhist highlands. In Manang, the Gurung people maintain a unique heritage, while Mustang remains a rare sanctuary for the ancient Bonpo religion, still practiced in villages like Thini and Lupra. Spiritual landmarks punctuate the journey, from the centuries-old monastery in Braga to the sacred shrines of Muktinath, a holy site for both faiths.
The scenery is dominated by giants. The route circumnavigates Manaslu, Annapurna I, and Dhaulagiri—all exceeding 8,000 meters—and plunges through the Kali Gandaki, the world’s deepest gorge. The journey often culminates at Poon Hill, offering iconic panoramas of the Annapurna massif and the distinct "Fishtail" peak of Machapuchare.
Prepare
[edit]Before departing each morning, consult your guesthouse host about trail conditions. Expanding road construction has disrupted several sections, making some paths dangerous, so stick to the primary red-and-white blazed trails whenever possible. Avoid walking on the motorable roads, as they are often choked with heavy dust from passing vehicles. For a steeper and more adventurous alternative, follow the blue-and-white secondary trails.
As of 2024, the government has reinforced the mandate that all foreign trekkers must be accompanied by a licensed guide or porter-guide through a registered agency. While some checkpoints may appear lax, trekking without a guide now risks immediate removal from the route or heavy fines. Since this is a "teahouse trek," you do not need to carry food or camping gear, but hiring local support remains the best way to navigate safely while contributing to the local economy.
Cash is essential because there are no ATMs after Manang until you reach Muktinath and Jomsom. While you can exchange US dollars or traveler's checks in Chame or Jomsom, it is safest to carry a sufficient supply of Nepalese Rupees for the entire trek. Prices generally rise with the altitude, and you should expect a daily budget of approximately Rs 1,500 to Rs 2,000 for modest spending, or up to Rs 4,000 at higher points.
Pricing can be unpredictable; for example, the stretch between Tal and Chame is often more expensive than the more remote path to Manang. Since lodge prices are typically standardized within each village, there is no need to hunt for bargains. Instead, consider walking toward the far end of a village, as the most pleasant lodges are often located on the way out of town. For a high-end experience including beer and ample meals, a total budget of Rs 50,000 to Rs 60,000 per person is sufficient for the journey from Besisahar to Jomsom.
Eat
[edit]
Because this is a "teahouse trek," you do not need to carry food or a camping stove. There are villages with restaurants and shops along the entire route, providing ready meals and snacks. It is customary, and often expected, that you eat both dinner and breakfast at the lodge where you spend the night, as these businesses rely on meal sales rather than room rates to remain viable.
Drink
[edit]While not explicitly detailed in the provided notes, the presence of established lodges and shops means that bottled water and hot drinks are available throughout the route. To reduce plastic waste, many trekkers use local water sources treated with purification tablets or UV filters. Most lodges have running water, though it is primarily used for washing.
Sleep
[edit]Accommodation is readily available in villages along the route, so there is no need to carry a tent or camp wild. Rooms are generally inexpensive, ranging from Rs 100 to Rs 500, though prices can rise to Rs 800 at higher elevations near the Pass. Most rooms feature two or three single beds, while a few offer a single double bed.
While bed linens and blankets are provided, they are often just aired out rather than washed, particularly at higher altitudes. If cleanliness is a concern, you may wish to bring a sleeping bag or liner, but a sleeping bag is not strictly necessary for warmth as you can always request extra blankets. Even in winter, an emergency blanket is a lighter alternative for those worried about the cold.
Facilities vary greatly; you may encounter modern private flush toilets or shared outdoor squat toilets. All lodges have running water, but hot water depends on the system. Solar showers provide lukewarm water on sunny days, while gas showers offer reliable heat. In colder months, you may need to request a "bucket shower" or check if the lodge has water pipes heated by the dining room fire. Electricity is generally available for light, though it is wise to confirm if there are outlets for charging devices in your room.
Climate
[edit]The itinerary is generally accessible for much of the year, though you should expect significantly colder temperatures at higher elevations. While the lodges provide shelter and blankets, the environment remains rugged, particularly in winter. No unusual equipment is required beyond standard trekking gear, though an emergency blanket and a flexible attitude toward varying bathroom standards and water temperatures are recommended.
Get in
[edit]The traditional starting point for the Annapurna Circuit is Besisahar. This town is accessible from Kathmandu (KTM IATA) by a tourist bus, which is a six to eight-hour journey departing daily from Kathmandu's new bus station, or by a private jeep or car, which is a faster but more expensive option.
To get to If you arrive late from Kathmandu, it is worth stopping in Khudi after about 7 km and 2 hr from Besisahar for a cheaper, quieter first night and a cooler start.
Due to road extensions in the area, many trekkers now choose to take a jeep from Besisahar further into the valley. This allows them to start their trek from villages such as Syange, Jagat, or Chame, which can save several days of walking.
Walk
[edit]
17 km
6 hr
A hot, jungly opener on a mix of footpaths and rough road beside the Marsyangdi. This portion of the trek follows the Marsyangdi River upstream, to its source near the village of Manang. Walking this stretch is pleasant enough that taking a bus to Bhulbhule is not recommended, since the road is potholed and buses are slow, uncomfortable, and infrequent. From 1 Besisahar, continue 2 km and about 1 hr to Bhulbhule (840 m), then 4 km and 1 hr 15 min to Ngadi (890 m), where Bob & Mom’s sells bush-grade “green” and dawn views of the snow peaks are good. Finish with a steady 4 km, around 1 hr 45 min, up to 2 Bahundanda (1310 m). The first full day to Bahundanda is often brutally hot and ends with a long climb.
12 km 4 hr
Terraces and open valley views lead 5 km in about 1 hr 30 min to Ghermu (1130 m), which many prefer for the night since it sits in an open bowl. Continue 3 km and about 1 hr 30 min to 3 Jagat (1300 m), a densely built village in a narrow gorge where limited airflow can affect air quality and make the atmosphere feel more confined. From Jagat it is 4 km and about 1 hr to Chamche (1385 m). These lower stages are good candidates to combine so you can spend more time acclimatizing higher up.
15 km 6.25 hr
Climb steeply on steps and footpaths for 5 km and about 2 hr to Tal (1700 m), a broad village on the riverbed beside a waterfall. The trail then undulates 4 km in about 1 hr 30 min to Karte (1870 m) and a further 2 km in about 1 hr to 4 Dharapani (1900 m), a solid overnight with views into both canyons. From Dharapani to Kagbeni you will be walking the Annapurna section of The Great Himalaya Trail, a long distance trekking route that connects Nepal from East to West. Continue 2 km in about 1 hr to Bagarchap (2160 m) and 2 km in about 45 min to Danaqyu (2200 m). Much of this stage uses proper trail rather than the main road, with short, sharp pinches in and out of side gullies.
12 km 4 hr
The higher variant stays on trail more of the way, rising through woodland 6 km in about 2 hr 15 min to Thanchowk (2570 m), then traversing 4 km in about 1 hr to quiet Koto (2640 m), and finishing with an easy 2 km in about 45 min into 5 Chame (2710 m). Koto is small, clean, and calm compared with bustling Chame, with a Tibetan Buddhist monastery and wide mountain vistas.
9 km 3.75 hr
The gentler valley option has more road underfoot but straightforward gradients. From Danaqyu it is 1.5 km and about 1 hr to Latamarang (2400 m), then 5.5 km and about 2 hr to Koto, and a final 2 km and about 45 min to Chame. Quick access to services makes this a good foul-weather choice.
90 km
Naar-Pho Valley was opened to foreigners in 2002 and only a comparatively few tourists have visited the area so far. The area has a totally Tibetan character and the two main villages 6 Phugaon and 7 Naar are both located at over 4000 m altitude. A trekking permit is needed for this restricted area, and it must be arranged through a trekking agency. It is also compulsory to have a guide, and as there is not much tourism infrastructure to speak of, most groups visiting the area choose an old style camping trek with porters, cooks etc. Entrance to Naar-Pho is from Koto (before Chame) and exit is via Kang La pass 5300 m to Ngawal. A side trip to Naar-Pho requires 9 days if two nights are spent in both Phugaon and Naar. As hiking from Koto to Ngawal takes normally 2 days along the AC, a side trip to Naar-Pho adds about 7 days to the total trekking time.
14.5 km 5 hr
Pleasant forest walking and big valley views lead 7 km in about 2 hr to Bhratang (2850 m) and 6 km in about 1 hr 30 min to Dhukur Pokhari (3240 m). The upper path then climbs around 1.5 km in about 1 hr 30 min to 8 Upper Pisang (3310 m). There is a trail between Lower and Upper Pisang; Upper Pisang has quaint old-style lodging and an active Tibetan Buddhist monastery with sunrise and sunset chants. Villages along this high line are full of character and the outlooks on Annapurna are among the best of the circuit.
19.5 km 6.5 hr
A balcony traverse with constant views and a stiff switchback climb reaches Ghyaru (3730 m) after about 4.5 km and 1 hr 45 min. Roll 5 km in about 1 hr 45 min to Ngawal (3680 m), then drop 2 km in about 45 min to Humde (3330 m). Continue 6 km in about 1 hr 45 min to Bhraga (3450 m) and 2 km in about 30 min to 9 Manang (3540 m). Taking this high line and sleeping in Ghyaru or Ngawal helps acclimatization, and both villages are beautiful; because they lie higher than Manang, you can often skip an extra rest day if you sleep up here.
19 km 4.5 hr
An easier valley traverse via Bhratang in about 2 hr (7 km) and Dhukur Pokhari in about 1 hr 30 min (6 km), then about 1 hr for the final 6 km to 10 Lower Pisang (3250 m). Expect a steadier grade, more time on the road, and fewer high-level panoramas than on the main route.
15 km 4.25 hr
The quick valley option reaches Humde (3330 m) in about 2 hr over 7 km and Bhraga (3450 m) in about 1 hr 45 min over 6 km, then 11 Manang (3540 m) in about 30 min over 2 km. Manang is a pleasant place to rest and clean, with small “movie houses.” A map of local walks is beside the central stupa, you can see the origin of the Marsyangdi River from here, and classic acclimatization hikes include Ice Lake. An excellent side trip to Tilicho Lake can be done from Manang, returning to the main trail at Yak Kharka; allow up to 3 days. Tilicho sits at about 4900 m, which makes it a good acclimatization outing.
15 km 6.5 hr
Alpine meadows give way to sparser slopes as you climb steadily 9 km in about 3 hr to Yak Kharka (4050 m) and a further 1 km in about 1 hr to 12 Ledar (4200 m). Continue 5 km in about 2 hr 30 min to 13 Thorung Phedi (4450 m). The path narrows across some landslide-prone traverses where it pays to go steady and give pack animals space. Many trekkers use time saved on the lower stages to add one or two acclimatization days here or earlier in Manang or Upper Pisang, using day hikes to prepare for the pass.
15 km 6.25 hr
From High Camp around 4900–4950 m, climb about 5 km in 2 hr 15 min to Thorung La (5416 m), then make a very long descent about 6 km in 2 hr 45 min to Charabu (4230 m) and a further 4 km in about 1 hr 15 min to 14 Muktinath (3800 m). High Camp has plenty of beds and wide mountain views. Muktinath marks a return to fuller services and has important Hindu and Buddhist temples. South from here the vehicle road toward Nayapul is often potholed and dusty, so use foot trails whenever possible. It is also possible to mountain-bike from Muktinath toward Tatopani; rentals are available in Muktinath and Mustang Mountainbikes has been operating since 2011. A typical bike journey to Tatopani takes 2–3 days. Mustang is on its way to becoming a major downhill biking destination, thanks to its beautiful scenery and the fact that one descends from 4000 m to 1200 m altitude along this jeep road or single-tracking it on alternative walking trails. Either way, it is advisable to stay off the jeep roads whenever possible, especially in upcoming sections, as they are narrow, steep, and dangerous.
19 km 5.25 hr
The more atmospheric high trail runs through Jhong (3540 m) in about 1 hr 30 min over 3 km and then to Kagbeni (2800 m) in about 45 min over 6 km, a maze of narrow alleys at the mouth of Upper Mustang. Continue down the Kali Gandaki through Eklebhatti (2740 m) in about 1 hr over 2 km and on to 15 Jomsom (2720 m) in about 2 hr over 7 km. Expect strong afternoon headwinds and dusty sections. If you prefer to break the day, inexpensive and charming overnights are possible in Jharkot, Purang, or Jhong. From Muktinath some trekkers take motor transport; a truck to Jomsom costs about Rs 200 and earlier jeep rates were around Rs 710.
19 km 6.5 hr
The easier descent follows mixed trail and road through Jharkot (3550 m) in about 1 hr over 1 km and Khinga (3355 m) in about 45 min over 3 km to reach Kagbeni (2800 m) in about 1 hr 45 min over 6 km. Continue along the broad, often windy valley floor through Eklebhatti (2740 m) in about 1 hr over 2 km and on to Jomsom (2720 m) in about 2 hr over 7 km. Kagbeni has hidden alleyways and a European-like charm and many stay a couple of nights. Here, the trail meets up with the Kali Gandaki River. The stretch between Kagbeni and Jomsom can be very dusty with frequent traffic; some take a jeep to avoid the worst afternoon winds. Arriving in Jomsom can feel odd since the town is spread out; most guesthouses are on the far side near the airport and it takes about 15 minutes to walk through town.
23 km 7 hr
Follow the Kali Gandaki on a road-and-trail mix through 16 Marpha (2670 m) in about 1 hr 30 min over 6 km, continue about 6 km and 1 hr 30 min to Tukuche (2590 m), then about 4 km and 1 hr to Kobang (2640 m), 1 km and about 1 hr to Larjung (2550 m), 3 km and about 1 hr to Kokhethanti (2525 m), and a final 3 km and about 1 hr to 17 Kalopani (2535 m). Scenery is big-valley and beautiful, although dust and traffic are common. From Jomsom you can fly to Pokhara in about 20 minutes for roughly USD 100, or travel by bus for about USD 20 on a multi-stage journey that usually arrives after dark: Jomsom to Ghasa, change for Ghasa to Baglung (or Gharkhola), then change again for Baglung to Pokhara. Many cyclists also continue from here toward Tatopani (literally translated to hot springs).
20 km 7.75 hr
Descend 7 km in about 3 hr to Ghasa (2010 m) and 4 km in about 1 hr 30 min to Kopochepani (1480 m). Continue 2 km in about 45 min to Rupsechhahara (1500 m), 3 km in about 1 hr to Dana (1400 m), and 4 km in about 1 hr 30 min to 18 Tatopani (1200 m). The vehicle road is wide and fairly level, which makes progress quick but dusty and less scenic. A footpath alternative branches left, climbing steeply away from the road to regain a proper trail; this way is harder but more rewarding. Tatopani means “hot springs” and the baths make a fine finish after a big day.
11 km 4.5 hr
A stair-heavy descent drops through Ulleri (2010 m) in about 1 hr over 2 km and Tikhedhunga (1500 m) in about 1 hr over 2 km, then eases beside the river to 19 Birethanti (1025 m) in about 2 hr over 6 km and on to Nayapul (1070 m) in about 30 min over 1 km. Poon Hill is famous for dawn crowds; a quieter hill on the opposite side toward Chomrong offers similar views. If you keep following that ridge you reach Chomrong after two days, linking into the Annapurna Base Camp trek. 20 Ghorepani (2870 m) serves as a base for Poon Hill and other local walks, and this area is usually closed from July to mid-September during the core monsoon.
20 km
The 1 Tilicho Lake is one of the highest lakes in the world at 4920 m and requires 2-3 days from Manang. Walk 3 hr to Khangsar, some maps will show a path along the south side of the valley, but this path is old, unused and wrecked by landslides, stick to the northern side.
You may be confused by people referring to the upper and lower path: there are actually three different paths. Two paths leave Khangsar, the lower one is (more) landslide prone and has no teahouses, use the upper one. About 45 min after Shree Kharka the path splits. The path upwards involves a lot more climbing and descending and is unsafe (the signpost to it is crossed out and has "Danger" scratched on it). Take the path downwards. Some people refer to this downwards path as the "lower path", causing confusion with the "even lower" path. Be aware that the path recommended above is marked as only a minor trail on some maps.
Out of Khangsar take the upper path 40 minutes to a monastery and a further 20 minutes to Shree Kharka, with two tea houses where you can have lunch or spend the night. There is another teahouse about 20 minutes after Shree Kharka.
Three hours on from Shree Kharka you will reach Tilicho Base Camp, with three teahouses and another under construction.
The lake is reached by walking three hours up from the Tilicho Base Camp at approximately 4100 m. It's a tough, steep, consistent climb and will be by far the highest you've been at this point in your trek. Snow leopards are around in this area but you are more likely to see blue sheep and yaks. It's possible to reach base camp and climb to the lake in one day from Shree Kharka but it's best to stay overnight at base camp, then head up very early in the morning to get the best weather; it gets very windy after 11:00 and the clouds can start forming as early as 08:00. Being at the lake can be very cold: be sure to bring warm clothes. There is a teahouse there where you can get food and tea, but no accommodation except in an emergency. The teahouse may not open in low season, the staff come up from base camp each day, so check there before heading up.
It takes 1½ hours to get back to base camp. Once down you could stay the night, or continue 3 hr back to Shree Kharka (or 2 hr 45 min back to just before Shree Kharka). The next day it is possible to walk directly to Yak Kharka via Old Khangasar so you do not have to backtrack all the way to Manang, there is a clear signpost at a split in the path just after Shree Karka. It takes approximately 4hrs to get from Shree Kharka to Yak Kharka.
Stay safe
[edit]Your safety on the Annapurna Circuit hinges on respecting the altitude. Acclimatize by ascending gradually, staying well-hydrated, and never ignoring the early signs of Acute Mountain Sickness like headaches or nausea; if symptoms worsen, you must descend. Equally important is preparing for the unpredictable mountain weather, so pack essential layers including waterproof and windproof gear, even if the forecast seems clear. Finally, maintain your health by drinking only purified water and carrying a basic first-aid kit. Responsible trekking is key to safely experiencing the majesty of the Himalayas.
Go next
[edit]Many trekkers choose to finish their trek in Muktinath or Jomsom, either taking a very bumpy jeep or bus ride from Muktinath to Pokhara, or a small plane from Jomsom. Another option is to ride down by mountain bike from Muktinath or Jomsom, turning those bumpy roads into a positive thing for tourism. If you still have the energy for more trekking, Pokhara is the gateway to the Mardi Himal trek, a short ridge route to viewpoints below Machhapuchhre.
At the western end of the trek by Nayapul, several options are available, including adding on a trek to Poon Hill and/or the Annapurna Sanctuary trek.
You can access the Everest Base Camp trek in Sagarmatha National Park, reached by a short flight to Lukla, or venture to the Numbur Cheese Circuit in Ramechhap District, a quieter loop around Numbur Himal with village homestays, yak pastures, and expansive valley views.