Numbur Cheese Circuit Voyage Tips and guide

The Numbur Cheese Circuit is in Ramechhap District of Nepal. This off-the-beaten-path loop links the Khimti and Likhu river valleys around Numbur Himal, passing Sherpa villages, yak pastures, and forest, with simple homestays and teahouses along the way. The full circuit is roughly 100 km, though published itineraries vary from about 75 km to 150 km depending on start and finish points and any side trips.

The starting point of the trek is Shivalaya, also the start of Everest Base Camp trek for those who don't fly to Lukla.

See also: Trekking in Nepal

This route has a recommended itinerary of 14 days trekking, although at a push it can be completed in up to 10 days by combining some of the shorter days. It can also be extended several days for those who wish to visit some of the nearby glaciers, peaks or lakes. A rest day on the trek is also a good idea.

The trek can offer visitors superb views of major Himalayan peaks including Annapurna South, Langtang, Gaurishankar and Numburchuili and many more. Walk through deep river gorges, glacial lakes, terraced rice fields, subtropical forests and Sherpa villages to the Lhiku Khola glacier, watched over by the towering peaks of Pathibarra and Numburchuili. Visit one of Nepal's first cheese factories, established in 1957 and the famous Thodung Monastery on the way.

In April and May rhododendrons bloom in profusion, you may also see eagles, musk deer, and Himalayan tahr, a species of goat antelope. If you are lucky you can catch a glimpse of the elusive snow leopard.

During the wet season the mountain meadows are very green and lush with flowers and grasses. However trekking at this time is difficult in the wet and clouds will obscure any views.

While the trail passes through villages with homestays and lodges, a significant portion requires camping, so trekkers must be self-sufficient. Ensure you have comprehensive travel insurance that explicitly covers trekking up to altitudes of 5,000 m and includes emergency helicopter evacuation. Carry enough Nepali Rupees in cash for the entire trek, as there are no ATMs or banks after leaving the main road. Mobile phone reception is unreliable to non-existent in the higher, remote sections of the circuit. Beyond camping equipment, pack layered clothing for a wide range of temperatures, robust sun protection (hat, sunglasses, and high-SPF sunscreen), and a personal first-aid kit.

The villages of Jiri, Shivalaya, Deurali, Bamti-Bhandar and Gumdel are well-served with trekking lodges, toilets and hot (bucket) showers.

In Kharare, Lahaksewar and Kyam accommodation is in an actual home or 'Community-run homestay', so the cross-cultural exchange is more authentic. Although part of the trek is in uninhabited areas, community-run homestays operate during the trekking season so it's quite suitable for independent trekkers.

The area above Khahare to Sewar is uninhabited so camping is the only option at Panipakha, Phokte, Maanedanda, Jatapokhari, Panch pokhari, Thare, and Ngeju.

Note: the trek requires camping for at least 4-5 nights (usually night 2-6), so you will need to be well equipped with tents, sleeping gear, cooking equipment and sufficient food. There is no shortage of drinking water along the route (although bring water purification tablets to be safe). There are some basic stone and timber shelters at the camp sites. It is possible to sleep in the shelters, however they are open on one side and the roofs are not entirely waterproof. Shelters to be muddy from May - September during the monsoon season. There are no toilets at the camp sites.

There are no fees or permits needed for this trek.

Shivalaya and Those are the start and finish points of the Numbur Cheese Circuit and are 8-9 hr drive from Kathmandu. Seasonal Super express bus service goes to/from Kathmandu's Old Bus Park, near the Nepal Tourism Board (07:00 daily). Kathmandu to Jiri/Shivalaya takes 6-8 hours (Rs 450). The winding road is very well paved with fine mountain views. The route follows the Arniko Highway towards Tibet before turning right over the Sun Koshi at Lamosangu for the climb on the Swiss built Lamosangu-Jiri Road, the "gateway to the Solu Khumbu", through Sindupalchowk, Dolahka Districts to Ramechhap. Buses make a lunch stop after 4 hours at Mude Bazaar, famous for the largest potatoes in Nepal.

During the monsoon season (June to mid-September) the road is usually closed to Shivalaya, so it is necessary to walk from Jiri to Shivalya - adding an extra day to the trek. The buses will also not run as far at Those (the end point) so it is necessary to return to Jiri.

Interesting stops along the way are Charikot, where you can stay at the luxurious Charikot Panorama Resort, run by friendly hosts Judith and Top Thapa, or continue on to Jiri.

27°40′16″N 86°24′50″E

Map of Numbur Cheese Circuit

Distance

10 km

Duration

5-6 hr

The trail runs up and down along the valley side through terraced fields, passing through 27.64595886.3164581 Garjang halfway. Past this settlement, the trail dips to cross the river, then snakes steeply up the cliff on the other side as you approach Khahare. From Khahare the steep climb to Jata Pokhari begins, via Panipakha and Maanedanda.

• 27.60675486.2978012 Shivalaya. The gateway for the Numbur Cheese Circuit. The route to Shivalaya follows the traditional approach march for Everest expeditions, pioneered by Sir Edmund Hilary, along the old trade route from Jiri. Shivalaya is located on the picturesque Khimti River. There are numerous guests houses and some basic shops in town. This is the last town on the trekking route where you can buy food goods or basic items of clothing.  
• 27.68065286.3389673 Khahare village. Fewer than 5 houses, inhabited only during winters by their owners who spend their summers on the pastures bordering Tibet tending to their yaks and chauri. 

Distance

9 km

Duration

4-5 hr

From Khahare the steep climb toward Jata Pokhari begins, via Panipakha and Maanedanda. The trail offers views of the roaring Khimti Khola river below. From here on be prepared for Chauri (cows) on the trail. Stick to the inside of the trail and get out of their way! Passing through the Tiny Sherpa village of Phokte the trail ascends through the rhododendron forest to the summer pasture of Maanedanda.

• 27.706886.37091 Panipakha. The first campsite on the trail route. The site has a relatively flat camping area carved into the hillside with a basic two room hut. There is room for about a 5 - 10 tents only. The trail offers views of the roaring Khimti Khola river below. 

Distance

7 km

Duration

4-5 hr

Passing through the tiny Sherpa village of Phokte, the trail ascends through rhododendron forest to the summer pasture of Maanedanda. The second campsite on the trail with a basic cooking shelter and area for tents. Good views from here on clear days. From here, the trail climbs to Jata Pokhari along the riverside and as the altitude

• 27.719586.41152 Mane Danda (Maanedanda). The second campsite on the trail with a basic cooking shelter and area for tents. Good views from here on clear days. 

Distance

8 km

Duration

5-6 hr

From Mane Danda the trail climbs beside the river through alpine pastures and sunpati scrub; a dramatic waterfall heralds arrival at Jata Pokhari. From Jata Pokhari, a short walk leads to the sacred lakes of Panch Pokhari Ramechhap.

The campsite is located very near the holy mountain lake of Jata Pokhari. The lake, in the lap of Mount Numburchuli, is a popular pilgrimage destination in Ramechhap. Over 3,000 pilgrims make their way here to celebrate Janiapurnima. It is believed that taking a dip in its holy waters will fulfill one’s wishes. An overnight is recommended to allow for acclimatisation. Take a side trip to Baula Pokhari, the “mad lake” but don’t disturb the spirits within or your wishes may not come true!

• 27.7254986.41853 Jata Pokhari (Jata Pokhara). The third campsite on the trek route. There is also a basic shelter and some flat areas for camping. 
• 27.73139386.4219671 Panch Pokhari Ramechhap. A short walk from Jata Pokhari. There are five small lakes, known as Panch Pokhari Ramechhap, within this huge glacial cirque. The unmistakable Annapurna South dominates the western horizon.  

Distance

10 km

Duration

5-6 hr

From the sacred lakes the route continues over the first high pass, around 4,600 m, then descends toward Tare.

• 27.74245686.4477074 Tare. There are no facilities available here. 

Distance

9 km

Duration

6-7 hr:

“Wilderness” fits the rugged Lhiku Khola basin. Cross the Thulo Lapcha pass at 4,838 m, traditionally used by local Sherpas to bring yaks to Ngeju. Views extend north into Tibet as the trail follows the Likhu Khola Valley to the remote yak pastures of 27.73360186.5168035 Ngeju below the icefall from the sacred summit of Numbur. There is a campsite here as well as a signpost. Follow the Likhu Khola Valley until you reach the remote yak pastures of Ngeju nestled at the foot of the ice-fall tumbling from the sacred summit of Numbur.

The ancient Buddhist shrine of Kau Gumba sits above the tree line; Dudhkunda, the “Milky Lake,” rests in the heart of the basin, ringed by glaciers and moraines.

• 27.75444686.5730742 Numburchuili (Numbur) (lies on the border of Ramechhap and Khumbu.). A mini-Everest - ‘Numbur’ is often mistaken for Everest when viewed from Nagarkot, due to the similarity in their shapes.  

Distance

12 km

Duration

6-7 hr

The trail from Ngeju to Lhachhewar descends from the high yak pastures into forested valleys, following the Likhu Khola. As the terrain softens, you enter Lhachhewar.

• 27.687486.4694 Lhachhewar (Lahaksewar, Sewar). One of the most beautiful Sherpa villages in the Upper Ramechhap region, with its astonishing landscapes, cultural wealth and the hospitable Sherpa people. ‘Sewar’ offers an experience of Sherpa culture where people have maintained the traditional way of life. 

Distance

12 km

Duration

5-6 hr

The trail follows the river valley, descending through deep forest to Kyama (3,190 m) with fine views of Pathibara and Numburchuli.

• 27.631186.42885 Kyama. Kyama has two monasteries, as well as Yeshe Chomo Cave, which is a pilgrimage site. 

Distance

10 km

Duration

5 hr

From Kyama the trail follows a scenic ridge and then descends through forested slopes, with glimpses of Numburchuli along the way.

• 27.7186.486 Gumdel. With the gleaming Numberchuili as the backdrop, Gumdel is a tiny hamlet gathered around a large Buddhist Stupa. The Gumdel Home Stays offer the best of Sherpa hospitality and cultural traditions amidst luxuriant landscape and spectacular mountain scenery.  

Distance

9 km

Duration

4-5 hr

From Gumdel the trail descends through dense forest, eventually meeting the Everest trail at Bhandar.

• 27.61254886.36777 Serding. Serding is a very small hamlet. 

Distance

12 km

Duration

5-6 hr

The route from Serding to Lapchane climbs gradually through mixed woodland and rural settlements before reaching the Newar village of Lapchane. From here, the nearby Tamdanda hill offers some of the region’s best panoramic Himalayan views.

• 27.56119586.2853713 Lapchane. Tamdanda above the Newar village of Lapchane, is one of the tallest hills in Ramechhap. From here you can see most of the central and eastern Himalayan peaks Dhalguiri, Annapurna, Gauri Shanker, Numbur, Makalu, Kanchenjunga. The peak also offers breathtaking sunrise and sunset views during good weather. The variety of flora and fauna, with 65 species of birds, makes it the place to head off to for nature lovers. Tamdanda at 3,000 m provides the best east-west panoramic Himalaya views in the area and also hosts the largest variety of bird species in the mid hills of Nepal. 

Distance

10 km

Duration

4-5 hr

From Lapchane the trail descends steadily through forests and farmland, passing the serene Thodung Monastery along the way. Clear weather offers sweeping views of the surrounding hills before arriving in the historic market town of Those.

• 27.589886.34164 Thodung (Thotung). A small active monastery surrounded by an aroma of pines, natural beauty, and a variety of flora that enhance the serenity of the monastery and its surroundings.  
• 27.5964186.2622348 Those. Before the construction of the Jiri Road, this was the busiest market town on the trade route between Namche and Lamosangu.  

Distance

14 km

Duration

6-7 hr

The final stretch from Those to Shivalaya follows a mix of jeep track and footpath through terraced farmland and scattered villages. It’s a relatively gentle walk compared to the high mountain stages, with views of the Khimti River valley guiding you back to the trek’s starting point.

This trek is challenging and should be considered as "difficult" and only suitable for trekkers with a good level of fitness and some trekking experience. The trail route is through a remote wilderness area for days 2-6. It is strongly advised to take an experienced guide as it would be easy to get confused by the various paths. Guides and porters can be organised through some trekking agencies in Kathmandu or it is possible to find a local guide in Jiri or Shivalaya.

The trekking route requires some fairly dramatic gains in altitude. Allow sufficient time to acclimatise to altitude to avoid altitude sickness (acute mountain sickness - AMS). It is possible to trek from Khare - Panipakha in one day, and then from Panipakha to Jata Pokhari on the next day, however this involves a gain in altitude of 2200 m in two days which may cause issues for some people.

If you plan to continue along the Everest trail, the 'Numbur Cheese Circuit' provides excellent options for acclimatization.

From the trek's start and end points, you can connect to other destinations:

• The Everest Base Camp trek can be started directly from Shivalaya, following the traditional "pioneers' route" used before the airport at Lukla was built. This is an excellent way to extend your time in the mountains and properly acclimatize.

• For treks in other regions, you will need to return to Kathmandu. From the capital, you can arrange travel to other world-class trekking destinations like the Annapurna Circuit or the Langtang Valley Trek.