Begur is a town on the coastline of the Costa Brava in Catalonia. The town is popular for its proximity to beaches, hidden coves, camping and food, as well as the Cuban festival Fira d'Indians in early September.
Understand
[edit]
Map of Begur
Begur sits on a hilltop promontory looking out to the Mediterranean on the Costa Brava in the region of Catalonia. It has a modest population of around 3,900 people (2018), including a large expat community, which swells noticeably in peak tourist season from July–August.
The Fira d'Indians festival marks the historical links between Begur and Cuba; in the 19th century, locals from Begur emigrated to the island and returned bringing their fortunes and elements of the culture back with them. Traces of this wealth and history can be observed in the distinctive Cuban architecture scattered throughout the town.
Get in
[edit]By plane
[edit]Girona airport is a 45-minute drive away from the town. There are regular budget flights available from the UK with Ryanair and Jet2 and with Ryanair to other European destinations several airlines although these are highly seasonal, and there are hardly any flights between November and March. There are more regular flights into Barcelona airport, a 2-hour drive away.
By public transport
[edit]There is a €9 train from Barcelona to Girona, and from there buses run to Begur town center. The bus company SARFA have a regular service to the village from Estació del Nord bus station in Barcelona though it takes a good 2½ hours.
By boat
[edit]- 1 Port d'Aiguablava (port de Fornells), GIP-6533.
By car
[edit]- From Barcelona: take AP-7 ( E15 ) motorway North (direction France), exit 9A to Costa Brava, take C-35 until C-65 junction, then C-31 until Palafrugell, then GI-653 .
- From France: take AP-7 ( E15 ) motorway South (direction Barcelona). take exit 3 in Figueres and take N-2 until C-31 follow it until Regencos, then take GI-653 .
Get around
[edit]The town is largely walkable, albeit hilly closer to the castle. There is a bus service from the centre of the town down to some of the most popular beaches, Sa Riera, Sa Tuna and Aiguafreda which runs from mid-June to mid-September. A one-way trip costs €1 and takes about 10 minutes (October 2018).
See
[edit]- 1 Castle of Begur (Castell de Begur). is a good example of medieval remains. The castle was constructed in the 16th and 17th centuries.
- 2 House of Carmen Amaya (Mas d'en Pinc), Passeig Carmen Amaya. A beautiful farmhouse in a traditional Spanish style which once belonged to the great flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya. Much of the building, which now belongs to the local council, has now been converted to offices for the environmental department, with one room remaining a small but informative exhibition to Carmen Amaya. The people who work there apparently don't see all that many tourists and are more than happy to give interested visitors a short tour of the place. Free entry.
- 3 Cala de l'Illa Roja (in the northern part of Begur). Illa Roja is a nudist beach that borders the Racó Beach to the north and sa Riera Beach to the south. It consists of two sandy coves at the foot of a red rock cliff in the shape of an inverted number 3, which causes the beach to be in the shade in the afternoon.
Do
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- Visit some of the many beaches around Begur by foot or by bus
- Take a walk along the coast from Sa Tuna to Sa Riera beach for beautiful views of the coast. A popular walk for locals, expats and tourists alike. This is a moderately difficult walk and is not suitable for flip flops or people with mobility issues. Bring water and hiking shoes or sneakers with good tread.
- Visit the town centre with its historical architecture, old main square and myriad small shops and market-stalls.
- Fira d'Indians festival. A celebration of Begur's Cuban influence, the whole town is transformed into a street party for several days in early September every year with crowds, music, dancing and pop-up stalls.
- Take a walk up to the castle at night. It's free, it's a short walk (10 minutes from the base) and the whole town can be seen from the top.
Hiking
[edit]The GR 92 long-distance walking route crosses the city.
Beach
[edit]
- 1 Platja d'Aiguablava (is accessible by the GIV-6532 road; or from Tamariu, also, by this road.). The cove is located a short distance from the town of Begur, it has a car park, which is paid for in the summer season. The long-distance path GR92 passes through this cove, which follows the entire coastline. At the bottom of the cove is the beach of Aiguablava. It has a bar, showers, hotel, toilets and a lifeguard. It is very shallow and has medium and fine sand. It is 87 meters long and 27 meters wide.
- 2 Cala dels Tries (Port d'Esclanyà). Oriented to the east, it is 63 m long and between 11 and 15 m wide, formed by pebbles and blocks. The name Port d'Esclanyà comes from the small cement piers that, as a breakwater and a ramp, enter the sea.
- 3 Platja d'en Malaret. It is 17 m long and has an average width of 10 m, made up of coarse sand, gravel and pebbles. It is surrounded by summer houses. There used to be a fountain, which has now disappeared. In 2022, the Begur City Council built the section of the coastal path that connects Port des Orats with the Malaret beach, avoiding passing through private properties and thus giving continuity to the route that goes from Cala d'Aiguablava to the port of Fornells.
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- 4 Platja de l'Anastàsia. Protected on both sides by vertical rock walls, part of its surface is occupied by a ramp used by fishermen in the area. Oriented to the east, it is 12 m long and 13.5 m wide, made up of coarse sand and pebbles.
- 5 Platja Fonda (Access to the beach is via a long staircase.). nestled in the middle of the rocky stretch of coast corresponding to the Begur mountains. It is located in a semi-natural and residential environment and is bordered to the north and south by rocky outcrops and cliffs. It is 170 metres long and has an average width of around 18 metres. It is made up of coarse, dark sand. The slope into the sea is quite steep.[2] The beach is very busy in summer. The water quality is excellent.
- 6 Platja de S’Eixugador. natural beach , hidden between cliffs and pine forests, located southeast of the beach of Sa Tuna, from which it is accessed by the coastal path (cami de ronda), which reaches the Punta des Plom. Oriented to the north, it has a length of 70 m and an average width of 8.5 m, formed by fine sand and pebbles. In front of the beach, numerous small boats anchor, sheltered by the Punta des Plom.
- 7 Platja sa Tuna. is a semi-urban beach located in the town of Sa Tuna, a maritime district of the municipality, with old fishermen's houses. It is nestled in the Sa Tuna cove, in the middle of the rocky stretch of coast corresponding to the Begur mountains. Oriented to the northeast, it has a length of 91 m and an average width of 18 m, formed by coarse sand, gravel and pebbles. The slope of entry into the water is very steep. There are usually boats stranded on the sand. Access is via a winding road. The coastal path leads to the beach of S'Eixugador.
- 8 Cala d'Aiguafreda. is a small cove and port located on the coast of Begur, in the Baix Empordà. Of small dimensions, the cove has a sharp shape and faces southeast; it is closed, to the north, by the cliffs of Cap de sa Sal; and to the south, by Punta des Plom. The name seems to come from the homonymous stream that flows into it, but it could also come from Cap de Begur, located a little further south; and which in medieval times was called Cap d'Aiguafreda.
- 9 Platja de sa Riera. It is a wide sandy beach, inserted in a cove formed by the homonymous stream that originates in the Begur massif, near the town. At both ends of the beach, there are small rocky coves: the Port des Pi cove, on the right; and the King's cove, on the left. In the background and on the left, we can see the Medes Islands. The parking lot —one part is paid and the other is free— and a small urbanization are located directly on the stream bed, behind the village of fishermen's houses that occupies the first row, and therefore, invisible from the beach.
- 10 Cala Moreta (platja de l'Illa Roja) (It can be accessed by walking from El Racó along a short path that goes over Punta Espinuda, a small outcrop of rock that separates them; or from Sa Riera along the coastal path that overlooks the beach from the cliff.). Cala Moreta is 151 m long and has an average width of 31 m, while Cala de l'Illa Roja is 43 m long and has an average width of 25 m. The entire beach is made of fine, golden sand. The only buildings are residential houses on top of the cliff, which are not visible from the beach itself. Due to the seabed of illa Roja, it is a place of interest for scuba diving.It is characterized as a quiet cove, thanks in part to the absence of car access and the virgin appearance it presents. There are no bars, hotels or other services, except for a seasonal bar that is installed during the summer.
Eat
[edit]There are a number of restaurants around Begur, many of which have English language menus to cater to expats and tourists.
- El Tapas de Begur. A small, friendly tapas bar in the main square, charging by the plate.
- 1 Restaurant Rostei, Carrer Concepció Pi i Tató 8, 17255 Begur (In the old centre, a short walk downhill from the church square.), ☏ +34 972 62 42 15. Summer: daily lunch and dinner; reduced hours off-season.. Atmospheric stone-walled restaurant in the historic centre, specialising in fresh fish, seafood and traditional Catalan recipes, with several well-priced set menus. [beguronline](https://www.beguronline.com/restaurants.htm) Mid-range to upscale seafood and Catalan dishes..
- 2 La Pizzeta, ventura i sabater, 2 (Just off the church square, a minute’s walk from the main viewpoint.), ☏ +34 972 62 38 84, [email protected]. daily 19:00-24:00. Family-friendly pizzeria and Mediterranean restaurant with thin-crust pizzas, salads and pasta, popular with both locals and visitors.
- 3 Toc al mar, Carrer Platja d'Aiguablava 8, 17255 Begur (On Aiguablava beach, 3 km south of Begur; follow the road signed for Platja d’Aiguablava.), ☏ +34 972 11 32 32, [email protected]. closed in winter.. Beachfront chiringuito-style restaurant renowned for grilled fish, rice dishes and sea views, ideal for a long leisurely lunch by the water.
- 4 Hostal Sa Tuna Restaurant (Restaurant Sa Tuna), Passeig de Sa Tuna 47, Platja de Sa Tuna (On the small Sa Tuna cove, about 4 km from Begur; signed road from town.), ☏ +34 972 62 21 98, [email protected]. Seaside restaurant attached to a small hostal, specialising in fish, paellas and casseroles, with terraces right above the pebbly cove.
Drink
[edit]- 1 Bar Coscorrones, Plaça Forgas, 2 (On the corner just up from Can Marc), ☏ +34 972 62 34 54. Some of the cheapest drinks in town, mostly frequented by friendly locals.
- 2 El Jardí de Can Marc, C/ de la Creu 10 (large white-walled garden on the corner before the main square), ☏ +34 972 62 31 19, [email protected]. Open every night in summer from 19:00. An open, social bar and garden with a range of drinks and traditional local food
Sleep
[edit]Budget
[edit]- 1 Hostal Ondina, Carretera de Aiguablava, km. 3, ☏ +34 618228727. Hostel. from €80.
- 2 Hostal Sa Tuna Restaurant, Passeig de Sa Tuna 47, Platja de Sa Tuna (On the small Sa Tuna cove, about 4 km from Begur; signed road from town.), ☏ +34 972 62 21 98, [email protected]. Seaside restaurant attached to a small hostal
Splurge
[edit]- 3 Parador de Aiguablava, Platja D'Aiguablava, ☏ +34 972622162. Hotel starts at €250.
Connect
[edit]As of Jan 2024, Begur and its approach highways have 4G from Vodafone, and 5G from MasMovil, Movistar and Orange.