Cangas del Narcea is a village in the mountains of Asturias, 90 km southwest of the provincial capital Oviedo. "Cangas" means canyons and it's the largest village of a scattered collection of upland hamlets and summer cottages, with a combined population of 11,000 in 2025. These valleys flow out of the Picos de Europa, crossed by modern roads but they were never on a historic trade or pilgrimage route. Much of the area is protected as parkland.
Fuentes del Narcea is the tourist office, in Plaza Mayor next to the church of Santa María Magdalena. It's open Tu-F 11:00-14:00, 16:00-18:30, Sa Su 11:00-14:00.
Get in
[edit]Highway AS-63 snakes through the hills from Oviedo. Leave it at La Espina for AS-216 / 215 via Tineo.
Alsa buses run every two hours from Oviedo, taking 2 hr 15 min via Grado, Salas and Tineo.
1 Estación Bus is a fancy name for the draughty pull-in on Calle Pintor Luis Álvarez.
Get around
[edit]You need your own wheels to explore this scattered area.
Taxi Batista is on +34 626 348509.
See
[edit]- Santa María Magdalena is the Baroque 16th century parish church on Carreterra de la Vega in Cangas del Narcea, a block east of the bus station. It's open M-Sa 09:00-19:00 but Su just for mass.
- Ambasaguas - "between the waters" - is a neighbourhood at the confluence of the Narcea and Naviego rivers, reached across a medieval hump-back footbridge. Capilla del Carmen is an 18th century chapel, the start point of the fiesta parades. Palacio de Uría adjacent is a mansion built in 1712.
- La Bestia - "The Beast" - is a massive cubist wooden sculpture overlooking the confluence from the west bank. Installed in 2025, it represents a herd of cattle.
- Wine Museum, San Tirso 9, Cangas del Narcea (south edge of village), ☏ +34 984 497009. Tu-F 11:00-14:00, 16:00-18:30, Sa 16:00-18:30. Demonstrating the tradition of wine-making in these hills. Adult €1.30, child free.
- San Cristobal is a small church in the hamlet of Las Escolinas, up the lane east of the wine museum. It's modern and plain but has two 18th century Baroque altarpieces.
- 1 Centro de Interpretacion de Muniellos (23 km south of village), ☏ +34 984 497009. Sa Su 10:00-18:30. Visitor centre for Muniellos wildlife reserve, with viewpoints and short trails.
- 2 Xedré or Gedrez a further 2 km south is a mountain hamlet with traditional buildings. The Church of Santa María is Romanesque.
Do
[edit]
- Bosque Activo are wildlife tours - safaris in effect, exploring the hills in 4WDs to see the bears and other denizens. They're based at Las Escolinas near the wine museum but may pick up from hotels.
- Polideportivo Municipal is the sports complex on Av Alejandro Casona, north edge of Cangas del Narcea.
- Fiestas del Carmen y la Magdalena are held over a week in July. The fiesta procession starts from Ambasaguas chapel south side of the villge.
Buy
[edit]- Al Campo at Uría 32 is open M-Sa 09:00-21:30.
- Coviran at Uría 13 is open daily 09:30-14:00, 16:30-00:00.
Eat
[edit]- Magadán is at 9 Plaza de Asturias, open M-Sa 06:00-01:00.
- Street Food is at Alcalde Díaz Penedela 4, open W-M 11:00-16:00, 18:00-01:30. Cash only.
- Casa del Rio is at Mayor 38, open Tu-Sa 08:00-00:00, Su 11:00-17:00.
- Sidrería Narcea is at Dos Amigos 12, open Th-M 11:00-00:00.
- ES3 Burger is at Uría 36, open Th-Su 11:00-00:00.
- Café Madrid is at Mayor 17, open Tu-Su 11:30-01:00.
- Bar Blanco is at Mayor 11, open Tu-Sa 10:30-16:00, 19:00-02:00, Su 10:30-16:00.
- El Moreno is a gluten-free restaurant at Plaza Conde Toreno 2, open Th-Tu 10:00-02:00.
- El Forno de Manolo is at Uría 29, open daily 08:00-01:00.
- Casa Parla is at Uría 28, open M-Th 08:00-22:00, F Sa 08:00-01:30.
- Turkish Kebab is at Av del Acebo 3, open daily 12:00-16:00, 18:30-00:00.
- Sidrería Parrilla Suiss is gluten-free, at Av del Acebo 5, open Tu-Su 10:30-23:30.
Drink
[edit]- Cider is the traditional drink of this region. A sidrería serves food paired with cider.
- Wine is produced on these steep slopes, though the Asturian DO region of Cagas de Onis is many km to the east.
Sleep
[edit]
- Hostal Virgen Del Carmen is a simple place 150 m northeast of the bus station at Mayor 46. It lacks soundproofing so it's noisy during festivals.
- Hotel El Molinón, Uría 40 (200 m east of bus station), ☏ +34 985 812952. Comfy and central. Double (room only) €60.
- 1 Hotel Alina, Obanca 15, ☏ +34 618 923937. Friendly and clean, 600 m from town centre. Double (room only) €50.
- 2 Parador de Corias, Monasterio de San Juan Bautista, Courias, ☏ +34 985 070000. Smart hotel in a former monastery. B&B double €160.
- 3 Hotel-Restaurante Peña Grande, Av Leitariegos 3, Cangas del Narcea, ☏ +34 985 812066. Convenient place 1.5 km south of town along AS-213.
- 4 La Casilla, AS-213, Limés, ☏ +34 985 812680. Hotel-restaurant higher up the valley.
Connect
[edit]As of March 2026, Cangas del Narcea has 4G from all Spanish carriers - you might even get 5G - but with many dead spots on the approach roads.
Go next
[edit]- Tineo is on El Camino Primitivo pilgrimage trail from Oviedo to Santiago - so-called as it was the first documented trail.
- Oviedo has a splendid cathedral.
